Entries By pete van deventer
May 4, 2014
Posted by: Linden Mallory, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
On The Map
The ability to measure your gains throughout a training program is a great way to stay motivated and identify areas that you want to work on more. In college I raced on the cross-country ski team. On the team, we had several different benchmark sessions throughout our summer and fall training seasons. These sessions helped measure strength, anaerobic threshold, race speed, and endurance. While the demands of nordic ski racing are somewhat different than mountaineering, these categories still apply directly to mountaineering. If you incorporate tests into your training plan early, you’ll have a benchmark to compare each subsequent test to. With a tool to identify your progress, you’ll be amazed at the progress you will make in getting faster, stronger, and fitter!
As food for thought, a couple of the events that we used were:
A Strength Test: The test encompasses three different core exercises that isolate different muscle groups: sit-ups, push-ups, and dips. Starting with sit-ups, do as many complete sit-ups as possible within a 1-minute span, rest for 30 seconds, and then repeat. We did the same with both push-ups and dips, keeping track of the numbers. When repeating the test later in the season, you are able to track your gains in core strength.
3000-meter running test and time trials: Both allowed us to compare times over a consistent course and test aerobic thresholds. The 3000m is long enough (7.5 laps of a standard track) to attain a good idea of how you can push and maintain over an extended distance. Time trials are the same, though distance and mechanism can vary (20 kilometers on a bike or a 45 minute uphill run). Longer courses focus on aerobic capacity (endurance), while shorter events move more towards the aerobic threshold (the ability to process lactic acid and maintain aerobic respiration).
Uphill sprint test: Running uphill as hard as I could pushed me into the anaerobic zone and measured maximum performance. Alpine ski areas, a local uphill grind, or even a long set of stairs are a great place to do this test. Find a section 2-3 minutes long, duck your head, and give it all you have.
Be creative with creating your own benchmark tests! Enter a 5k race periodically, use your local stadium stairs as an anaerobic test, and create a strength test that works for you. The options are pretty limitless, and when you see how much time you’ve dropped on that uphill run, or how many more sit-ups you can do over the period, you’ll be that much more psyched to keep getting after it. As always, be careful, especially at the beginning. Training only works if it’s making you stronger so train smart and stay injury free!
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Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Pete is leading an expedition on Denali's West Buttress in May. Also an avid skier, Pete has sailed and skied on several occasions through Norway's Lofoten Islands, read about the adventure on the RMI Blog.
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September 6, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
September 5, 2013
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
September 3, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
James and team, no luck with weather, no summit, but you do have great stories to share! Just admiring you for the hard work for the preparation and climbing. Thankful that you are well. Have great time in St.Petersburg.
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 9/3/2013 at 4:16 pm
September 2, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 8,300'
On The Map
Team -
BUMMER !!
I just returned from Burning Man where we battle wind and dust instead of wind and snow. I’m sorry to hear that Elbrus has been throwing up roadblocks for you guys. Sounds totally different than when I was there in July. St. Petersburg is a fabulous city. You’ll all love it.
Seth - Looking forward to seeing you and Dave down at Vinson in 3 months.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 9/3/2013 at 12:31 pm
James and team
I hope you have a wonderful time in St. P!
I am rEally looking forward to hearing your stories, learning more about the partcular challenges you faced and safely addressed, and hearing about your next mega-goal and adventure. Your couageous acts and actvities are very inspiring and motivational to me!!!
Travel safely,
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/3/2013 at 4:03 am
September 1, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in after the Mt. Elbrus summit attempt.
On The Map
James and team, based on your blog, time is running out for your climb to the summit. Trust that you will follow team’s prudent decision putting your safety a top priority. Hanging in there together.
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 9/2/2013 at 7:55 am
James and team
I suspect you are disappointed not being able to achieve a very important part of your trek. It’s hard to be in great shape, pumped-up and ready to reach a summit.
From reading your blog it doesn’t sound like your weather and conditions allowed you to safely reach the top of Mount Elbrus at this time. Many of us who choose to climb with RMI appreciate, admire and want guides and leadership that are able and willing to always put our safety first. I am sure I am not alone in thanking Seth and Pete for using such sound judgement. You are all so important to us.
Hang in there, support one another, focus on descending safely, and really try to enjoy the history, architecture and other beautiful aspects of St. P.
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/2/2013 at 6:57 am
September 1, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'
On The Map
Seth: A comment you taught me could be appropriate at this time: the three P’s, perserverance, patience and a positive attitude along with a bit of luck will get you there! Best on a safe climb!
Posted by: phil usher on 9/1/2013 at 6:33 pm
Choo and team,
Bit bummed to read about the weather stalling things but I’m sure you’re still making the most of it! Only a success if you make it up…and back down…so be safe!!! Fingers crossed and sending wishes/thoughts/prayers for it to open up and give you a chance if it is right!!!
Pulling for ya! Enjoy and have fun!
LT
Posted by: Lauren on 9/1/2013 at 4:17 pm
August 31, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 11,200'
On The Map
James and team
Sure sounds dramatic over and up there! Very glad to hear everyone is safe. Looking foward to hearing the team continue ascendig as the weather permits. Be safe!
(Heading out now to mix with the Harley riders who have ridden into town to celebrate the company,s 110th year. Quite loud and exciting!)
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/1/2013 at 5:09 am
Hi everyone & Doug
I’m sorry your weather has not cooperated.The forecast for 5000m & 5600m for Monday looks clear & sunny. I hope you can summit Monday.Stay safe & take pictures.
Lorraine
Posted by: Lorraine Quinn on 8/31/2013 at 10:43 pm
August 30, 2013
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'
On The Map
James and Pete…June 2010 Electrical storm disrupted Lori / I’s Elbrus summit bid…Thxfully we were able to make it - And you too…Calm and poise and Godspeed…Waltero
Posted by: Walter on 8/31/2013 at 6:50 am
Sometimes you just have to wait it out, thunderstorms on a mountain can be big trouble
Posted by: Tom on 8/30/2013 at 4:32 pm
James and Pete…Different kind of summit…Did prez ask to meet the famous mountaineers - you and crew ?...Enjoy the sights…Best Waltero
Posted by: Walter on 9/6/2013 at 5:27 am
Janet & Peter, Random says 4 hooves up for the summit tomorrow! Resting and relaxing at home, Gretchen says “I could have done the 1st 17 miles with you!” We are hoping the weather will be perfect and that you have a great climb to the top. Cheers!!!
Pat & Jeanne
Posted by: Pat & Jeanne on 9/5/2013 at 9:23 pm
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