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Denali Prep Course

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  • Show Trip Info

    Price
    $2250
    Deposit
    $500
    Duration
    5 days
    Difficulty
    Level 1
    Type
    Mountaineering
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RMI Logo
Denali Prep Course

Denali Prep Course

dollar sign Price / Deposit

$2,250 / $ 500

Meter Difficulty

Level 1

Clock Duration

5 days

Climber on cliff Type

Mountaineering

The perfect opportunity to prepare for Denali. Test your gear, learn relevant skills, and knock out requirements needed for your goal of climbing Denali.

Jump To…

Winter conditions on Mt. Rainier closely mirror the conditions climbers experience during a Denali expedition and are a fantastic training ground. This five-day course combines expert classroom instruction with hands-on training in winter mountaineering techniques. The course focuses on the essential skills needed for success on Denali, from glacier travel and crevasse rescue to cold-weather expedition camping and sled rigging, ensuring participants leave with the technical skills, confidence, and knowledge necessary to undertake a Denali expedition. 

Program Highlights

The Denali Prep Course combines classroom education with rigorous field training to prepare climbers for Denali’s challenges. Participants will gain hands-on experience in key expedition skills while training in the cold, dynamic environment of Mount Rainier.

Master Essential Expedition Skills: Develop expertise in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, fixed-line ascension, and sled hauling under the guidance of RMI’s experienced Denali guides.

Test Your Gear & Apparel: Train in a setting that mirrors Denali's extremely cold and challenging terrain, giving you the opportunity to make sure your gear and apparel are up to the task.

Learn Cold-Weather Camping Techniques: Practice setting up secure expedition camps, constructing wind walls, and maintaining health and comfort in harsh environments.

Focus on Teamwork and Communication: Work as part of a roped team to tackle sled hauling, load management, and alpine travel, fostering a strong foundation of collaboration and leadership.

Prepare for Denali’s West Buttress Route: Benefit from detailed briefings, route analysis, and high-altitude logistics tailored to Denali’s unique demands.

The course takes place on the lower slopes of Mount Rainier, where climbers train in conditions that replicate the harsh realities of Denali. This course does not include a summit attempt of Mount Rainier. Participants will spend days hauling sleds, building expedition-style camps, and navigating winter terrain, all while learning critical techniques for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. This practical, hands-on approach ensures climbers are well-prepared to handle the technical and physical demands of Denali’s West Buttress.

RMI’s seasoned guides bring years of Denali experience to this program, offering insights into the unique challenges of high-altitude mountaineering. From mastering fixed-line ascension to understanding cold-weather physiology, participants walk away with skills that extend beyond Denali and into future expeditions. With a 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio, every participant receives personalized attention and tailored instruction throughout the program, making this an essential step in your preparation for Denali.

Curriculum Details

During the Denali Prep Course, you'll learn Core Skills necessary for a climb of "The Great One", as well as Denali Specific Information that will be a huge boon come expedition time. 

Core Skills

Denali Info

  • Glacier Travel & Rescue
    • Rope team techniques for safe glacier travel, including crevasse navigation.
    • Snow and ice anchor construction for rescue and belaying.
    • Crevasse rescue review and expansion including a variety of drop C systems
  • Expedition Logistics & Denali-Specific Briefing
    • Detailed briefings on Denali’s West Buttress route, including altitude illness prevention, cold weather injury management, and expedition logistics.
  • Fixed Line Techniques
    • Ascension and descent on steep snow and ice using fixed lines, preparing for Denali’s technical terrain.
    High-Altitude Physiology
    • Learn the physiology of climbing at high altitudes and how to prevent and treat cold-weather and altitude-related illnesses
  • Cold Weather Camp Setup
    • Building wind walls, setting up secure camps, and using snow caves for protection against harsh weather.
  • Expedition Planning & Gear Management
    • Tips on gear selection, packing, and expedition planning tailored to Denali and other high-altitude expeditions.
  • Sled Rigging & Load Carrying
    • Efficient sled rigging and hauling techniques for heavy expedition loads, simulating Denali's physical demands.
 
  • Avalanche Awareness & Risk Assessment
    • Avalanche safety protocols, terrain evaluation, and safe route planning in high-risk zones.
 
  • Cold and High Altitude Expedition Self Care
    • Maintain health through a lengthy expedition in harsh conditions, including nutrition, hydration, and prevention of cold-related and altitude-related injuries.
 

 

The dynamic environment of Mount Rainier serves as an ideal training ground, offering diverse terrain that challenges climbers to adapt to varied snow conditions, steep slopes, and unpredictable weather. Throughout the course, climbers will develop tips to maintain the mental and physical fortitude necessary for long-duration expeditions, while also gaining valuable insight into high-altitude logistics and route planning. This experience builds technical proficiency and fosters confidence in handling the complexities of cold-weather mountaineering, ensuring participants are well-prepared for the demands of Denali.

Contact Us

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure, please contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions about our programs. We are available Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].

 

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THE RMI DIFFERENCE

When your goal is the highest peak in North America, experience matters. Established in 1969, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) is one of America’s oldest and most trusted guide services. As the largest guide service on both Mt. Rainier and Denali, we lead climbs and treks around the globe. The remote and inhospitable landscape of Denali's slopes necessitates meticulous attention to detail, and our years of leading mountain adventures equip us with the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips. We work hard to uphold our reputation as an industry leader.

What to expect

Proven Expertise in Denali Preparation: RMI has been guiding on Denali for decades, with thousands of successful climbers trained through our programs. Our guides bring firsthand knowledge of Denali’s challenges, ensuring participants receive the most relevant and practical training available.

Small Group Sizes for Personalized Instruction: With a 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio, each participant benefits from focused attention and tailored instruction, maximizing skill development and confidence.

Comprehensive Curriculum Designed for Success: RMI’s Denali Prep Course combines classroom instruction with field-based training, offering a complete learning experience. From sled rigging to fixed-line ascension, every aspect of the program is crafted to prepare climbers for the physical and technical demands of Denali.

Seamless Support from Start to Finish: RMI’s team provides pre-trip consultations, gear guidance, and on-course leadership, ensuring every climber is fully prepared to succeed in the program and beyond.

Risk Management 

At RMI, risk management is our top priority. Our experienced guides strive to provide a safe and enriching experience, with strict safety standards applied to every program. RMI’s focus on risk management ensures a supportive learning environment where climbers can build confidence and skills.

Key Measures:

Detailed Planning: Every detail, from daily objectives to contingency routes, is meticulously planned.
Small Group Ratios: A 3:1 guide-to-client ratio allows for individualized attention and support.
Margin of Safety:  RMI guides draw from their wealth of mountain knowledge, experience, and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit while maintaining the necessary margin of safety.


Our staff is available to answer any questions you may have about the program, equipment, or preparation. For further inquiries, check our FAQ Page or reach us Monday through Friday at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].


NPS Authorized ConcessionerAuthorized Concessioner

RMI Expeditions is an authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Climate Change

OffsettersOur Denali National Park and Preserve climbs are 100% carbon neutral. We have partnered with Offsetters, Canada's leading carbon management solutions provider, to purchase offsets for our greenhouse gas emissions. Third parties verify and validate their projects to ensure that the emission reductions are real, additional, and permanent, so we know our contribution makes a real difference.

By supporting this project, we prevent the equivalent amount of greenhouse gas emissions generated by our operations from being emitted somewhere else. These offsets allow us to achieve our goal of sustainability and further promote responsible environmental practices.

 

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Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send email to [email protected].

Travel Insurance

We highly recommend travel insurance for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.

Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be challenging. When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:

  • Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will reimburse you when canceling for a covered reason for prepaid, non-refundable trip costs that you insure. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "covered reasons."
  • Confirm that your activity is a covered "activity." Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), activities that go above specific elevations, or activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to cover your activity.
  • Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.
  • Contact your travel protection company directly for any questions you have regarding benefits or coverage.

TRAVELEX

In today’s changing travel environment, it’s important to protect your travel investment. Unforeseen events such as flight delays, baggage loss or even a sudden sickness or injury could impact your travel plans. For your convenience, we offer Travelex Insurance protection plans to help protect you and your travel investment against the unexpected.

 

For more information on the available plans visit Travelex Insurance Services or contact Travelex Insurance (800) 228-9792 and reference location number 47-0370. 

The product descriptions provided here are only brief summaries and may be changed without notice. The full coverage terms and details, including limitations and exclusions, are contained in the insurance policy. Travelex Insurance Services, Inc. CA Agency License #0D10209. Insurance coverages underwritten by individual member companies of Zurich in North America, including Zurich American Insurance Company (NAIC #16535, state of domicile: New York). RETWEB

harbor

Harbor Travel Insurance covers the following critical benefits:

  • Evacuation to a nearest appropriate hospital once hospitalized.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, AD&D, and more.
  • Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims
  • 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses, and military veterans.

Harbor Insurance

Harbor Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries, and global  security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word.

Getting There

Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, and is the home of RMI Expeditions, Whittaker Mountaineering, Whittaker's Bunkhouse, and BaseCamp Bar and Grill. Ashford is located 75 miles from the Sea-Tac Airport, and most climbers traveling to Ashford will want to rent a car. This is the most convenient and reliable way to get here.

Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to your RMI Account, then to "Discussion Board" and "Ride Share" to post your information.

Seattle Airport Car Service
Phone: 206-375-4000
Email: [email protected]

ENTRY INTO MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

All our Mt. Rainier programs begin at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford. All Mt. Rainier climbs, seminars and schools include transportation for our climbers from Rainier BaseCamp to Paradise or to the White River Entrance.

You do not need to have a timed entry reservation if you are using RMI’s provided transportation.

If you are driving your own vehicle into Mount Rainier National Park, you will need to make a reservation for entry. Timed Entry Reservations - Mount Rainier National Park.

Ashford Area Accommodations

The first night of accommodations in Ashford (before you head up onto Rainier) is included in the program fee. You'll be staying at Whittaker's Motel and Historic Bunkhouse, in the "Bunkhouse", a shared room with 6 bunk beds and a shared bathroom. If you would like to book your own accommodations, or need a place to stay before or after the program, we recommend the below accommodations:

The Hideaway Tiny House
The Overlook
Whittaker's Motel and Historic Bunkhouse | 360-569-2439
Nisqually Lodge | 360-569-8804
Alexander's Lodge | 360-569-2300
Wellspring Spa & Cabins | 360-569-2514
Guest Services Inc: (Paradise Inn and National Park Inn) | 253-569-2275
Mt. Rainier Visitor Association | 360-569-0910
Camping

You may also go to VisitRainier.com to search for accommodations in the Ashford Area.

Weather

For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.

Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:

Tipping

Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your safety and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.

Facts

Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. At 14,410', Mt. Rainier is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.

Guided mountaineering activity has taken place since the late 1800s, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America, and the Himalayas.  With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States.  Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world.  There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and the history of climbing there.

Resources

General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP) - www.nps.gov/mora

The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org

Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park - www.visitrainier.com

Recommended Reading

The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar

Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier

Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow

National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map

 

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Qualifications

The Denali Prep Course is designed for intermediate climbers with previous mountaineering experience. Participants should be in excellent physical condition, capable of carrying a 40-50 lb backpack in winter conditions, and comfortable with glacier travel. No previous crevasse rescue or avalanche education is required.

Note for denali aspirants

Expedition team members on Denali’s West Buttress must have formal technical skills training in snow and ice climbing techniques, crevasse rescue, fixed line ascension, winter camping, and more, as well as a significant summit of 12+ hours in length on glaciated terrain, at or above 14,000’. This course will fulfill the technical training requirement but does not fulfill the summit requirement. This can be fulfilled separately, either before or after this course, with a summit of Mt. Rainier or a similar peak. The programs below are all great compliments to this Prep course if Denali is on your radar.

For more information on the qualifications necessary to climb Denali, click here

Your ROle as a climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each participant plays a crucial role in the safety and success of the team. Therefore, we ask that each climber:

  • Meet Climbing Prerequisites: Ensure you possess the necessary climbing experience required for this program.
  • Maintain Fitness: Be in top physical and mental condition suitable for this demanding climb. Mental toughness and a positive attitude are also crucial for handling the physical and psychological demands of the climb and ensuring you are a team player.
  • Be Informed: Familiarize yourself with all pre-departure information.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that you are medically qualified to join this program.
  • Health Updates: Inform the RMI Office of any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Proper Gear: Arrive properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices to minimize environmental impact.
  • Honest Communication: Accurately describe your fitness, health, skills, abilities, and equipment to your guide staff.
  • Health Communication: Inform your guide staff about any medication or health changes that may be needed.
  • Active Participation: Attend all training sessions, gear checks, and briefings. Follow the guidance and instructions of the RMI Guides, adhere to safety protocols, and work collaboratively with your team members. Personal responsibility for your equipment, maintaining good hygiene, and being prepared for sudden weather changes are essential.
  • Self-Assessment: Continuously assess your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the program's demands. Your commitment and readiness to adapt to the expedition’s demands will contribute significantly to the climb's overall success and safety.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the entire group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotels, and meals.

Fitness for Mountaineering

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains is extremely challenging.

  • Start immediately: Start a rigorous fitness and training program now to arrive in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
  • Be intentional: Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina, and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
  • Be sport-specific: The best fitness and training program mimics your climbing objective's physical and technical demands. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Denali - West Buttress Expedition, you are preparing for:

  • Steep climbing and glacier travel with a 50-65 lb load, including sled pulling
  • Strenuous physical activity for multiple hours a day for multiple consecutive days
  • A 12-14+ hour summit day
  • Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan to be in the best shape of your life and ready for a challenging adventure!

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.

 

Want to a tailored mountain training program just for you?

Create A Fitness And Training Program

 

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What You’ll Need

For the Denali Prep Program, the gear list is essentially the same as it would be for a Denali Expedition (minus the medications). While not all of this gear and equipment is strictly necessary on Rainier at lower elevations, a big benefit of this course is being able to dial in your kit for Denali in a more forgiving environment. Therefore, we strongly recommend you bring all of the recommended items.

The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.

RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item, thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check, when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.

Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list closely so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!


  • Whittaker Mountaineering Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Shop Your Equipment List // Rent new equipment for your climb

Equipment List

GUIDE PICK

Guide Pick™ is a collaboration between RMI Expeditions and Whittaker Mountaineering. At the end of each season, Whittaker Mountaineering surveys RMI's guides to determine the best mountaineering gear and apparel. They compile the results, reach a consensus, and award the best in each category with a Guide Pick™ label.

This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have characteristics and performance abilities similar to those of the Guide Pick.


Pack & Travel

Image of SLED DUFFEL BAG
SLED DUFFEL BAG

A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.

Guide Pick™

Image of DUFFEL BAG
DUFFEL BAG

100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This can be used as your checked bag on your flight to Alaska and to store excess gear in Talkeetna.

Guide Pick™

Image of 85+ LITER BACKPACK
85+ LITER BACKPACK

Your pack must be large enough for your layers, climbing gear, and food, as well as a portion of your tent and your share of group equipment. The pack volume you choose depends on your experience and the quality of your gear; if you opt for a smaller pack, practice packing and make sure you can fit all of your gear with room to spare. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pick™

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Image of SLEEPING BAG
SLEEPING BAG

We recommend a bag rated between -20° and -40° F. Allow ample room for movement. We highly recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a -40° F bag.

Guide Pick™

Image of COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
Guide Pick™

Image of INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD
INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD

A full-length inflatable pad.

Guide Pick™

Image of CLOSED FOAM SLEEPING PAD
CLOSED FOAM SLEEPING PAD

A full-length closed cell foam pad, used in combination with the inflatable sleeping pad.

Guide Pick™

Technical Gear

Image of ICE AXE
ICE AXE

The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.

Guide Pick™

Image of CLIMBING HARNESS
CLIMBING HARNESS

We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.

Guide Pick™

Image of TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER
1 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pick™

Image of LOCKING CARABINER(S)
2 LOCKING CARABINER(S)

Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

Guide Pick™

Image of NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)
6 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pick™

Image of CRAMPONS
CRAMPONS

Automatic or semi-automatic 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.

Guide Pick™

Image of MECHANICAL ASCENDER (OPTIONAL)
MECHANICAL ASCENDER (OPTIONAL)

For practicing fixed line travel. You guides will also provide one to practice with. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.

Guide Pick™

Image of DOUBLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING
3 DOUBLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

120 cm sewn sling ("double-length runner").

Guide Pick™

Image of SINGLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING
2 SINGLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

60 cm sewn sling ("single-length runner").

Guide Pick™

Image of ACCESSORY CORD
20' ACCESSORY CORD

6mm accessory cord for sled tether, sled prussik, and ditch loop.

Guide Pick™

Image of BUNGEE CORDS
4 BUNGEE CORDS

Approximately 12-20” each.

Guide Pick™

Image of NYLON CORD
20' NYLON CORD

Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing your duffel onto your sled.

Guide Pick™

Image of SNOWSHOES
SNOWSHOES

Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.

Guide Pick™

Head

While a headlamp is not required on Denali, we recommend one for this trip; it gets dark early on Rainier in the winter!

Image of HELMET
HELMET

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™

Image of WARM HAT
WARM HAT

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™


Image of BUFF
BUFF

A Buff provides versatile head and neck protection. A neck gaiter is also acceptable.

Guide Pick™

Image of BALACLAVA
BALACLAVA
Guide Pick™

Image of THERMAL FACEMASK (RECOMMENDED)
THERMAL FACEMASK (RECOMMENDED)
Guide Pick™

Image of HEADLAMP
HEADLAMP

Start with fresh batteries and bring extra set(s) of batteries appropriate to the duration of the trip.

Guide Pick™

Image of GLACIER GLASSES
2 PAIRS GLACIER GLASSES

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pick™

Image of GOGGLES
GOGGLES

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pick™

Hands

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVES
LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVES

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pick™

Image of MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES
MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated mountain gloves.

Guide Pick™

Image of HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES
HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves.

Guide Pick™

Image of EXPEDITION WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS
EXPEDITION WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS

For summit day and other very cold days. Gloves provide greater dexterity. Mitts provide greater warmth.

Guide Pick™

Upper Body

We recommend six upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Three of these should be insulating layers, one light, one medium and one heavy that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY
2 LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY

Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Light weight, light-colored, hooded baselayers (sun hoodys) are highly recommended for sun protection.

Guide Pick™

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
LIGHT WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pick™

Image of MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

A down, synthetic, or softshell hoody makes a great midlayer.

Guide Pick™

Image of HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

A hooded down or synthetic jacket.

Guide Pick™

Image of RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)
RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)

An uninsulated, waterproof shell jacket with hood.

Guide Pick™

Image of INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD
INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD

Your expedition-style heavy parka should extend below the waist and must have an insulated hood and be able to fit over the rest of your upper body layers. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day when it is of crucial importance. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill.

Guide Pick™

Image of SPORTS BRA
SPORTS BRA

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pick™

Lower Body

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.



Image of SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS
SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pick™

Image of RAIN PANTS WITH FULL-LENGTH SIDE ZIPPERS (HARD SHELL)
RAIN PANTS WITH FULL-LENGTH SIDE ZIPPERS (HARD SHELL)

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pick™

Image of DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANTS
DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANTS

A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth and comfort at camps, both on the glacier and on the trail. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.

Guide Pick™

Feet

Image of EXPEDITION DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS
EXPEDITION DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS

Expedition-style double boots provide the best balance of weight, comfort, and insulation. Your boots need to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and to insulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance.

Guide Pick™

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OVERBOOTS

Expedition overboots add significant warmth.

Guide Pick™

Image of BOOTIES
BOOTIES

Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice for evenings at camp.

Guide Pick™

Image of CASUAL SHOES
CASUAL SHOES

Great for traveling and wearing around town. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pick™

Image of GAITERS
GAITERS

A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

Guide Pick™

Image of PAIRS OF SOCKS
4+ PAIRS OF SOCKS

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pick™

First Aid & Medications

Image of SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT
SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.

Guide Pick™

Personal Items

Image of MEALS & SNACKS
MEALS & SNACKS

See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.


Image of BOWL
BOWL

Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.


Image of INSULATED MUG
INSULATED MUG

Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L nalgene.

Guide Pick™

Image of SPOON OR SPORK
SPOON OR SPORK

A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

Guide Pick™

Image of WATER BOTTLES
2-3 WATER BOTTLES

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

Guide Pick™

Image of THERMOS (OPTIONAL)
THERMOS (OPTIONAL)

High quality, durable vacuum bottle with a volume of 1/2 liter or 1 liter.

Guide Pick™

Image of INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS
2-3 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS

These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

Guide Pick™

Image of STUFF SACK(S)
STUFF SACK(S)

Bring as needed.

Guide Pick™

Image of LARGE GARBAGE BAGS
5-6 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for caching and for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.


Image of POCKETKNIFE
POCKETKNIFE
Guide Pick™

Image of LIGHTER
LIGHTER
Guide Pick™

Image of READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
Guide Pick™

Image of PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG
PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.


Image of TRAVEL SIZE HAND SANITIZER
TRAVEL SIZE HAND SANITIZER
Guide Pick™

Image of SUNSCREEN
SUNSCREEN

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

Guide Pick™

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LIP BALM

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

Guide Pick™

TRAVEL SIZE MOISTURIZER

Image of INSECT REPELLENT (OPTIONAL)
INSECT REPELLENT (OPTIONAL)

For Talkeetna.

Guide Pick™

Image of EAR PLUGS
EAR PLUGS

SPARE CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES (OPTIONAL)

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.


SLEEPING MASK

Image of PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)
PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

Guide Pick™

Image of PEE BOTTLE (OPTIONAL)
PEE BOTTLE (OPTIONAL)

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

Guide Pick™

Image of CAMERA (OPTIONAL)
CAMERA (OPTIONAL)

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.


Image of POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)
POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

Guide Pick™

Image of SOLAR PANEL (OPTIONAL)
SOLAR PANEL (OPTIONAL)

A small solar panel to charge personal electronics.


Image of ABC WATCH (OPTIONAL)
ABC WATCH (OPTIONAL)

Watch with an altimeter, barometer, and compass. Many smart watches will also have this functionalty.


Image of SATELLITE COMMUNICATOR (OPTIONAL)
SATELLITE COMMUNICATOR (OPTIONAL)

Communicate with family and friends back home, track your progress, and much more. Generally requires a subscription plan. Make sure this is a modern model that makes it difficult to inititate an accidental SOS call.

Guide Pick™

Travel Clothes

Image of TRAVEL CLOTHES
TRAVEL CLOTHES

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, site seeing and dining.  


SUNGLASSES

Pre-Trip Checklist

Purchase travel insurance.


Purchase airplane tickets.


Reserve rental equipment.


Arrange transportation to Ashford.


Be in the best shape of your life!



Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, sleds, and avalanche probes.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.

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Contents
National Park Service Authorize Concessioner
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Payments

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $500 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank, or wire transfer**.
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions. Credit/debit cards are not accepted for payments of $10,000 or more.

Cancellation

The $500 per person deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following policy applies:
    • If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $500 per person deposit will not be refunded.
    • If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.

Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, we strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.

Cancellation Insurance

We highly recommend travel insurance for this trip. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

Change of Date

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 90 days prior to your departure date for a $200 fee per person. No date changes allowed less than 90 days before departure.

Risk Management

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them.  Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity. 

Participant Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Review and understand all program information.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members.
  • Help minimize our impact on the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff if there are any changes in your medications or health while on your program.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, evaluating your fitness, health, skills, and abilities in terms of the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for, or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media. 

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes. 

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them. 
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

General Policies

RMI's program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant in preparation of the program, and prior to the cancellation of the program. RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations, or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program, or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including, but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

The Participant is responsible for any costs incurred due to COVID-19, including but not limited to, any testing fees or costs associated with medical care and/or quarantine such as hotel accommodations, meals, separate transportation, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused costs.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

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