Entries from Kilimanjaro
Before parting ways the team had one last day to see animals. It had been a really busy trip so far so half the group opted to sleep in while the other half got up early in search of some more close encounters. We were not disappointed.
First, we spent 10-15 minutes within 10 yards of a huge giraffe. Not bad, but our next big break came when we got surrounded by a family of elephants, including the cutest little baby. These critters were sometimes no more than 5' away. And we were in their midst for over half an hour. Incredible!
Then, getting to watch a huge herd of water buffalo heading to the river, again at unreal distances, was darned special. The herd must have numbered around 100.
This, in addition to seeing countless other animals made our last day wonderful. The only animal we missed out on that day was seeing a lion. But, wouldn't you know that the sleepyhead crew found a beautiful lioness that hung out right next to their Landcruiser!
So we all had a great last day.
We then drove back to the hotel, with a short break at a cultural center, to relax and shower before getting our evening flights out of Tanzania. Most of the crew actually built in an extra day or three to maximize their time abroad. Smart people!
The two weeks went by quickly, as they tend to do when we're as busy as we were. I think I speak for the whole team when I say what a great time it was. A fun adventure with a great bunch of folks. This is what climbing trips are all about, and what keeps me doing this for as long as I have. I know I'll be climbing with the team again on a new adventure sometime.
I hope you've enjoyed these posts of our adventures. Perhaps I'll see you on a climb sometime.
Kilimanjaro in 2019 anyone???
Take care and safe travels,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
August 10, 2018
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 12,500'
We woke to crystal clear skies today at Machame Camp and so the team got their first views of Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s central peak. We could see the hanging glaciers and ice fields sparkling in the morning light. Way down below us, there were clouds, but they were minding their own business and didn’t seem capable of rising up to swallow us. After a fine breakfast, we hit the trail at 8 AM with Philibet leading the charge. It was a slow charge as the trail steepened and got a whole lot more rocky just out of camp. But we made good progress anyway, gaining altitude through a forest of giant heather. Directly behind us and out on the western horizon was the giant pyramid of Mt Meru, Tanzania’s third highest peak rising out of a sea of low cloud. We gained a ridge crest and traveled along it toward Kibo for a ways before banging a left turn and traversing a series of old lava ledges. Finally, at about 12,700 ft we turned a corner and walked onto the broad Shira Plateau. We finished up by dropping downhill briefly before coming into our new camp at 12,500 ft. We’d seen our first Senecios and Lobelias, some of the distinctive endemic plants of
Kilimanjaro. We’d gotten the walking finished in about five hours which gave us plenty of time for a relaxing afternoon in Shira Camp. The team reviewed their Swahili vocabulary at 4:30 tea time and watched a fine sunset a few hours later out over the old volcanic towers of Shira. We filed into the big dining tent by headlight at 7:00 and were once again greatly impressed with the meal that Tosha had produced in his simple kitchen tent. It was another fabulous evening for stars and planets... and sleep as well.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
When Luis posed the question last night if we could sleep in until 8:00, I just had to say yes. After all, we'd been going strong for days on end and were due some slack. The whole table erupted in celebration on hearing my response. So, at the civilized hour of 9:00 we left our wonderful hotel en route for some souvenir shopping, to check out a Masaai Village and then on to our last full day safari.
Tarangire National Park has not disappointed. The sheer numbers of animals seen right off the bat were amazing. Plus we got to see animals we haven't yet seen: giraffes, elands, and a few other critters. We also got to see numerous elephants. After all, this park boasts the highest density of elephants around.
Our day was made complete when we got up close and personal with a big old giraffe, maybe 20 yards away. How cool!
Now we're at our last 'hotel', Balloon Camp. Yes, from the outside these structures look camp like, but given the polished wood floors, marble topped bathroom, queen sized bed, it's not 'camp'!
Our group was seated outside for dinner with a full on barbecue buffet that did not disappoint. What took place before was pretty cool too. As we were enjoying a drink in front of a huge bonfire, all of the sudden a group of Masaai came dancing into our midst. They put on a well done show, even drawing us Westerners out of our comfort zones to join in the dancing.
Interestingly, the hotel has a policy that after dark everyone needs an escort to and from the main lodge and their rooms/ cabins. The staff was also very attentive to the bush just outside our outdoor seating, continually pointing their lights into the Bush. We did spy an impala looking in on the festivities.
Some of us were secretly hoping for a lion to check out at close range, but no such luck. Still, seeing the fresh elephant dung just outside my cabin was a great reality check. We're in their world at this place.
I must admit I'm hoping to see/ hear a big old elephant go walking by my cabin tonight.
As the trip draws to a close we're all looking forward to seeing loved ones again. But I, for one, will miss Africa.
Getting up early tomorrow we're going to see some lions up close, and anything else that wants to show its beautiful face in the morning.
All for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
August 9, 2018
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 10,000'
With all due modesty, we crushed day one. We were out of our hotel and on the bus and on the road just after eight. Out on the highway, our driver Said had the windshield wipers on as the clouds were low and gray and leaking a little rain. But ninety minutes later, as we passed in to
Kilimanjaro National Park at the 6,000 ft Machame Gate, it wasn’t raining. As is normal, it took a bit of time to get the group registered for the climb and to get the staffing and loads sorted out, but then, at 10:40 we started walking. Freddy, of our local guide staff, set a “pole pole” pace... nice and slow and steady and we fell into a good rhythm behind him. James, our lead guide, and Frank, Phillibet, and Naiman brought up the rear. The trail, which can be muddy and slippery, was actually in pretty good shape today. The clouds stayed with us for the first half of the day and we got a hint of wet mist and sprinkles before things cleared out a bit in the afternoon. We could even see our shadows from time to time as the sun came and went. The team walked well and seemed to have little difficulty with the steady gain in altitude. We went from hours deep within the rain forest, to a final half hour in a transition to the “Heather and Mooreland” zone and finally walked into Machame Camp at 10,000 ft in a respectable five and a half hours after our start. Our staff had not only beat us to camp, they’d built the camp. Everything was perfectly set up and welcoming for our team to move in. We did afternoon tea with popcorn and then followed that up with one of Chef Tosha’s magnificent dinners. We spent a few minutes looking up at the night sky before turning in... Venus, Jupiter, Saturn and Mars were putting on a show and the milky way was trying hard to outshine them.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
I'll have difficulty describing the sheer numbers of animals that we saw today, so bear with me. If there are ten thousand big animals in the
Ngorongoro Crater, we probably saw half of them.
Our safari started quietly enough enjoying the views of the quintessentially African Acacia trees and some water bucks browsing as we descended into the caldera. Once there, the occasional zebra and wildebeest showed up, but then we really got into the animals. Herd sizes got bigger and gazelles, impalas, hyenas, jackals, wart hogs got into the picture.
Hippos were seen from just feet away as they baked in the sun half submerged in ponds. But then the mission was to find the royalty of the crater, the lions and elephants. We didn't have to wait long. Although this pride of lions were mostly sleeping and not out chasing dinner, we were en rapt by their presence.
Elephants were next, though they were at a distance. However, their mammoth size made them stand out like the giants they are on the savanna. Rhinos too were seen from a distance, but the water buffalo showed itself up close and personal.
The day was capped off by seeing five elephants just 70 yards away at the top of the crater as we were leaving the park. Not to mention the baboons that were scattered all over the road on the way out, just hanging out, getting each other. One even jumped on our Landcruiser, causing a stir as we quickly rolled up windows.
Then it was back to the hotel where Luis arranged a nice wine tasting before dinner. Following another great meal the hotel staff came out with a cake to celebrate Gennadiy's birthday, and outdid themselves with a wonderful Tanzanian birthday song and dance.
The evening ended with a huge bonfire and libations.
Another safari to come, I'll be back after that.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Well it took until mid-morning, but we finally had our whole team, with gear, in one place. Ten climbers and one RMI guide meeting at the hotel in Usa River on the outskirts of Arusha, Tanzania. Folks are jet-lagged, but today was actually an easy day of discussing the plan of attack, conducting gear checks and getting things packed and ordered for going on the mountain. That didn’t take the whole day, and so there was plenty of time for napping and strolling the gardens of the Arumeru River Lodge.
Kilimanjaro was visible from the viewing tower on the grounds and was looking magnificent with all of the recent snow up high. We got together for dinner and talked climbing (naturally) but also chatted about running and biking and careers and pretty places.
We’ll get on the road in the morning for Kilimanjaro.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
What a nice contrast to the past seven days of climbing a 19,340' mountain. Tired legs got a much needed rest as we drove around Lake Manyara National Park searching out wildlife made famous in National Geographic specials on TV. We were not disappointed.
We rode around in retooled Toyota Land-cruisers made just for game viewing, complete with pop up roofs for looking at critters from above roof top level. These vehicles are the perfect way to access the terrain where we find the animals. Our team was split between two Land-cruisers. Our two drivers/guides, Francis and Godson, proved to be incredible sources of knowledge, having to graduate from a two year university program and do internships before being qualified as a safari guide. Yes, we saw zebras, hippos,wildebeests, Cape buffalo, baboons, monkeys, tons of birds, dik diks, impalas, and I forget what all else. But we also learned such things as the inner workings of termite mounds, the love life of baboons and a myriad of other things. Oh, and the other team got to see a bull elephant from ten yards away!
Now we're settled in at our plush hotel, the Plantation Lodge, where we're being spoiled by some cush living. Tomorrow, the Ngorogoro Crater awaits that should prove to be especially exciting. Ok, that's all for tonight. Dinner is served in ten minutes and I don't want to be late. I haven't had anything less than a superb meal here on Tanzania, and I expect no less tonight.
Lala Salama,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Recipe for recovery, rest and relaxation: one hot shower, two cold beers, great food, friends and a soft bed. So good!
Our descent from Mweka Camp at 10,000' to the gate and our bus went smoothly. It was preceded by the closing ceremony at camp where the mountain staff sing and dance to commemorate the special week spent together, and we in turn get to express our appreciation for their hard work and dedication to making our mountain experience as wonderful as it was.
An African lunch was enjoyed before we had to say goodbye to the local guides, porters and kitchen staff. Then it was back to the Arumeru Lodge to clean up and relax. The water ran brown for the first minute in the shower as the weeks worth of dirt washed off our bodies. I think we all felt a bit reborn as we put on clean clothes and headed to the bar for a cold one.
A nice surprise for me was seeing my good friend Dave Hahn, who was leading the RMI Kili trip before ours and getting ready to start his next trip.
Shortly, we'll be up for breakfast and beginning the next part of our adventure: the safari, where we plan on visiting Lake Manyara, the Ngorogoro Crater and the Tanagire National Park. There we'll be hoping to see some of the incredible wildlife this special part of the world call home. Lions, elephants, leopards, wildebeest, hippos, zebras, giraffes and so much more. And, no more walking for a while.
Bring it on!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
August 5, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 10,000'
Everyone was excited for the climb to start, even though we were sitting around the dining table waiting for breakfast and it wasn't yet midnight. The sky was clear and the air a little chilly. Winds were fairly light at camp.
As we climbed up into the darkness we could see we weren't alone in our desire to reach the sky. About 1,000' up the wind started picking up and would not relent. Between the cold and the wind blowing we were experiencing some pretty challenging conditions. 40 mph winds blowing scree and dirt all over our bodies and into our eyes was not fun.
As dawn broke out we took heart in the beauty of the coming morning, though of anything the wind got fiercer. Dust and dirt would just blast your face and eyes.
But, summit we did, marking the midpoint of a long 16 hour day.
Right now we're at 10,000' at our last camp on Kilimanjaro,
Mweka Camp.
I've been up for about 24 hours now, so will bid you all goodnight for now.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
There was plenty of debate last night as to whether the tent fabric of our accommodations at Balloon Camp would keep out leopards and lions. But nobody showed up for breakfast this morning with visible scarring. In fact, we each slept quite well in the deep quiet of
Tarangire National Park at night. We got going at first light today, with Francis and Ibrahim taking the Toyotas down by the giant marsh on the Eastern border of Tarangire. We covered a lot of ground along the edge of the wetlands. At times, there were no animals apparent and we had to settle for the physical beauty of the place itself. At other times, we bumped into four hundred skittish Cape Buffalo, galloping along -raising a dust cloud- and looking warily about for whatever might be chasing them. We saw plenty of good eagles and even a fascinating set of Eagle/Owls -a mom and her offspring- eating their breakfast on a tree branch. We looked everywhere for big cats but failed miserably at that, having to content ourselves with wall to wall elephants and giraffes, wildebeest and zebra along with majestic baobab trees. We’d made our way to the main gate of the park by 11:15 AM and had to tear ourselves away from Tarangire and get on the road back toward Arusha. We stopped at the city’s edge to check out the cultural heritage museum and shop before cruising through Sunday traffic to the Arumeru River Lodge. There was time then for showers and repacking and a pleasant early dinner before we boarded a bus for the airport. Most of the team started their journey homeward tonight. We said fond farewells as we diverged. I -for one- am sticking around for round 2, another climb and another safari, but that will all begin soon. For now I’m still thinking of the adventure and the challenges of the past two weeks and the fine team we became in enduring (and enjoying) it all.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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So excited for you all and this amazing adventure. Continued prayers for a safe journey. Love and blessings.
Posted by: Holly Gilliam on 8/11/2018 at 12:59 pm
Wishing you the best, Lory Beth.
Posted by: Leonard Brendel on 8/11/2018 at 8:37 am
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