Entries from Vinson Massif
November 30, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 9,100'
Hello RMI!! I have to tell ya...it is so nice to be reunited with the team! No one at Union Glacier camp would let me put my head on their shoulders and cry. However, when my team saw me at Vinson Base Camp they all gave me big bear hugs!
Today we packed up camp and started our climb to Low Camp, close to 10,000 feet. Everyone had a fun day and we worked well getting camp set up. The usual happened with hots and dinner and more hots. Dave is currently buttoning up the kitchen as I write.
Tomorrow the team plans on carrying gear towards high camp. We get to travel some fixed line as the terrain steepens. Stay tuned! AND GO PACKERS!!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
November 29, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,200'
It was an eventful day, by our standards. Conditions still were not flyable when we crawled out of the tents at 9:15 (not too much use getting up before that time in this camp as it is pretty cold). But ALE, our logistical partner, offered one of their guides for the day so that we could accomplish a carry of food and gear to "Low Camp". We were excited for the chance to get on the move and for the opportunity to work with Lakpa Gelu. Lakpa has climbed Mount Everest 15 times and holds the speed record there. We were honored to rope up on Vinson with him. We left camp at 2:30 PM hauling a few sleds and carrying full packs. Snow conditions were perfect, we weren't sinking in much and the sleds dragged without much resistance. Despite the persistent cloud parked on the landing strip, a few hundred feet higher up we were walking in bright sunshine with blue skies and big views. We made great time, gaining two thousand feet of vertical and covering 5.6 miles (one way) in 4.5 hours. It felt great to pull into Low Camp, cache the load, and turn for base with light packs. The scenery for the day was spectacular, with views of the third and fourth highest mountains in Antarctica as well as a very close up view of a very big wall on Antarctica's highest mountain. The day was made perfect when, just as we crested the final hill and could see basecamp again, a Twin Otter aircraft, found a way through the clouds. JJ Justman made it into Vinson. We enjoyed our first dinner together on the mountain.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hi Greg, How are you and the team doing? As well as expected without the Tochers right? Bruce is recovering well and even went to the Texans game today and guess what??? They won, hallelujah!! We are still in shorts and t-shirts here in Houston makes you sick doesn’t it?? But I am missing the snow and cold December weather. Anyway take care y’all and stay safe!! Love from me and Bruce xxx
Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 11/30/2014 at 3:42 pm
Hi Greg hope you were one of the lucky ones that got to go on the first climb as we know you can’t sit still for long. bet you enjoyed meeting up with friends from previous climbs again. It’s -10; clear blue skies here. Good that JJ is with you and all you need now is for the weather to cooperate then you can start to climb. Stay safe. Mom & Dad
Posted by: Dawn Gerry on 11/30/2014 at 12:11 pm
November 29, 2014
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 9,100'
It was a cold night here at Low Camp last night. Frost formed on the edges of our sleeping bags from our breaths and we woke up to rings of frost crystals around us. Once the sun poked over the ridge line things began to warm up and before long we were moving about camp without too much chill. The plan was to carry a small load of food and fuel to high camp to prepare for our summit bids. Since our loads were manageable and we are nursing what rest we can at lower altitudes, we worked in tandem with a group from ANI and Penn and I made the carry to high camp while Jon traversed the glacier to a col on the far side of the valley.
We set off in the early afternoon with (relatively) warm temps and no wind. We skinned up the base of the fixed lines that ascend a broad face to a ridge line that leads to the upper portions of the Vinson Massif. Transitioning at the base of the fixed lines, we put our skis on our backs and strapped crampons on and began climbing. We spent the next several hours climbing the ~3,000' face, watching the glacier shrink away below us and the mountain tops above loom larger as they drew nearer. As we neared the top of the fixed lines a low but sharp wind kicked up and the temperatures instantly plummeted. We bundled up and climbed the final hour or so into high camp doing our best to conceal any bit of skin from the biting winds. The winds died as we reached high camp and we were able to warm up a bit as we stowed our gear in preparation for our move up there. It was a spectacular evening, the glaciers below us flowed out into the low hanging clouds below while to both sides of us the rugged ridge lines of the Massif reared up from below. Above us a half full moon hung above the summit of Mt. Shinn, Vinson's neighbor, and looked so close that is seemed like only a quick detour would get us to it and back again.
With our packs emptied we strapped on our skis and started back down. The skiing was slow and conservative right out of high camp as we picked our way through the wind affected snow, finding a line through the tall curls of snow carved out by the Antarctic gusts. The snow was firm and smooth along the top ridge line of the fixed lines and we chose to belay ourselves down that to keep ourselves safe. Once onto the face the sun had softened the surface and we were able to link up great turns for several thousand feet all the way down to the Branscomb Glacier below.
We returned to camp by late evening and quickly set about cooking dinner and sharing our observations and insights about the route above with Jon. With our gear in place, we're hoping for a decent forecast tomorrow morning to make our move to high camp and shoot for the summit in the following days. We're back in the tent at Low Camp enjoying the warm midnight sun (as ironic as that sounds) and burrowing into our sleeping bags in preparation for another chilly night down here.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & team
PS: Roll tide!
On The Map
Great work, guys. So amazing to get a phone call from Camp 1 last night! Tell us more about the temps (highs and lows) and keep it up. Love to all from Aspen
Posted by: Kir on 11/30/2014 at 5:49 am
November 28, 2014
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 9,100'
We unanimously agreed that the temperatures were a bit warmer than the night prior and we all slept much more warmly, although we did find out in the morning that the temps were hovering around -18F when we crawled out of the tents around 9am this morning. Despite the cold bite to the air, the skies had cleared overnight and we set about breaking down camp and preparing to move to Camp 1 (known as "Low Camp" on Vinson). We hit the trail midday and climbed back up the Branscomb Glacier, navigating the first crevasse field again with ease, crossing the long basin above, and reaching our cached gear by late afternoon. The landscape, under clear skies this time, were completely different and we were able to soak in the surroundings: the bulging seracs and icecliffs of the Branscomb to our left and the towering rock and ice faces of Vinson's main Massif directly in front of us.
After reaching our cached gear we transferred the loads from yesterday into the sleds we were dragging behind us and set off toward Low Camp. We made a long arcing turn from east to north facing around a second crevasse field and then set off across the upper stretches of the Branscomb, walking along the base of Vinson's towering walls stretching 3,000-4,000' above us. The glacier was an undulating plateau that felt like a false flat - the perspective lent itself to thinking we were traveling along flat ground but in reality we climbed another 800' over several miles. The constant backward tug of our sleds was a good reminder of why we were working so hard hauling our heavy loads.
By early evening, with the sun still high in the sky, we reached Low Camp and set about establishing camp. Whatever chills we felt from the occasional breeze was quickly chased away by the hard work of shoveling out a tent platform and a place to cook in the thick wind packed snow. We needed saws to hack through the dense snow and had to wield our avalanche shovels with care for fear of bending or snapping the blades. Despite the firm snow, within a few hours we were settled comfortably into camp and enjoying a warm meal. It's now half past midnight and the sun is still high above the horizon, traveling from west to east now. We are crawling into the tent eager for a good night's rest after the long climb with all of our gear but very happy to be up here and staring up at the more exciting climbing above us.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory and team
On The Map
Se tenir au chaud… d’accord?
Posted by: M. Homme on 11/29/2014 at 6:04 pm
Cool Stuff! (literally and figuratively)Jon, 65 F in Tuscaloosa today…
Roll Tide!
Posted by: Tom on 11/29/2014 at 9:57 am
November 28, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,000'
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Another no-fly day at Vinson Base. We were at the edge of a thick sea of clouds for much of the day and from what we heard, weather wasn't very nice at Union Glacier either. Temperatures were low again today, reportedly -23 C but most of the team felt more comfortable with the conditions today, perhaps we are acclimating. It was a little tough to be anchored down in VBC today as a couple of our neighbors and friends pulled out and moved up to "Low Camp" but we'd very much like JJ Justman to be along for that journey. So we did a bit more training and preparing. Tomorrow, perhaps, we'll have the whole team in one place... the way we like it. And we'll go climbing.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Climbing…always testing the patience. Training, preparing and having the whole team in one place sounds like a good idea. Soon. Hang in there GB and team! Hopefully, you have some good reading material : )
Posted by: kerry on 11/28/2014 at 9:55 pm
Well, sit tight, wait for JJ and better weather! That’s my advice from my seat in front of my computer in my house warmed by a wood fire!
Hi Haldis! *waves*. Saw you in the picture where you were weighing in your gear! :)
Hi to Tom too!
Your loving sister/in-law.
Posted by: Monica Glasenapp on 11/28/2014 at 8:04 pm
November 27, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,000'
The team spent Thanksgiving Day at 7,000 ft above sea level on the Branscomb Glacier. "VBC" at the foot of Mount Vinson. Most took it on faith that Vinson was towering over us, since we couldn't see it, or much of anything today. We were clagged in with cloud and light snow throughout the day. All were thankful to have come so far yesterday, via buses, two exotic airplanes, and a big wheeled van at Union Glacier. The team would have been even more grateful if JJ Justman had been able to fly into VBC with us. He was scheduled for the next flight, due to lack of space on our ski-equipped Twin Otter, but that next flight didn't go when the weather deteriorated. We muddled on without him today, reviewing some safety procedures with climbing harnesses and Avalanche beacons, and generally getting set for glacier travel. It was quite cold for most of the day, with many of the team choosing to wear the big puffy down garments brought more specifically for the summit. We enjoyed a visit and briefing given by David Hamilton, ALE's basecamp manager. In late afternoon, our gang took a little time to rest and to consider how all the football games back home might be going. We then assembled on the snow benches of our dining tent for a five course meal.
Happy Thanksgiving to all those back home sitting on real furniture.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave, JJ -
Hi Guys! Wish I was down there on the ice with you. Say hello to the ALE folks for me. Have a safe climb.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 11/28/2014 at 12:04 pm
Wishing Greg Barber and the RMI team a Happy Thanksgiving. It’s going to be cold here in Vancouver Greg, going down to -2C. Brrrrr…. Stay warm and safe buddy!
Posted by: Kim Morgan on 11/28/2014 at 8:50 am
November 27, 2014
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,200'
Happy Thanksgiving from 78 degrees south of the equator on the Vinson Massif!
The sun finally slipped behind the mountains around 3am last night and the temperatures here at Vinson Base Camp instantly dropped even further, causing us all to stir from our slumbers to burrow deeper into our sleeping bags. Despite the cold we all slept soundly. After reluctantly crawling out of our bags we set about preparing for the day: melting snow, boiling water and sorting gear to carry further up the mountain. We took our time this morning, waiting for the low hanging clouds that hung over the glacier to break but they never did and by midday we set out up the Branscomb Glacier with our packs full with food and fuel for nearly a week above Base Camp.
The climb out of camp ascends the gently rolling glacier before entering a minor crevasse field that guards the entrance to a large flat bench at about 8,400' on the glacier. Snow at very cold temperatures is known to be "crunchy" or "squeaky" as the crystal is break and fracture instead of bending or bonding and we settled into a routine on the climb out of camp, listening to our skis glide across the cold snow and settle under the weight of our feet with an audible crunch. As we approached the crevasse field our hopes to break through the clouds to clear skies above dissipated and we navigated our way through the cracks under a world lacking any sort of contrast. Glimpsing only occasional wands or tracks left from a previous group. We climbed another hour like this until we lost all visibility completely. We were in a world of white with no ability to differentiate the sky from the ground or near from far. Climbers refer to this as being "in the ping pong ball" - like being inside an sphere of impermeable whiteness. Having crossed the plateau and nearing the second notable crevasse field for the day we opted to drop our loads there, near a no longer used camp spot called 1/2 Camp, instead of pushing forward navigating only by feel. We unloaded all of our gear into a large duffel bag, lashed it securely to the ice, marked its location, pulled the skins from our skis and turned our sights toward Base Camp.
We were able to retrace our skin track without too much difficulty, following the telltale marks of pole tip plants and skin tracks (and keeping an eye on the map and gps just to be sure) back down the glacier. A couple of hundred feet above Base Camp the clouds thinned and we could spot our tent alongside the airstrip. We skied back into Base Camp grinning. Despite the poor visibility today, it still felt good to be on skis in Antarctica.
We celebrated a southern Thanksgiving swapping stories of traditions back home and sharing a package of Oreos. We're wishing all of our families a Happy Thanksgiving and just so there's no confusion: Tasty Bites are no comparison for home cooked Turkey!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team
1/2 camp! Nice work, boys!
Posted by: Kir on 11/28/2014 at 2:51 pm
November 26, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,200'
Hey – this is Dave Hahn calling from Vinson Base Camp. Yeah – I know, we started the day at the tip of South America, but we have made it all the way through Union Glacier and up to Vinson Base Camp. It’s 1:30 in the morning, we got the day going a long time ago. We were picked up from our hotel this morning a little after 7 in the morning so we have been on the go all day. The weather was a little iffy at Union for getting out to Vinson and it took a little time but we got out, or most of us got out. Jeff Justman, JJ, my other guide on this trip is still back there at Union Glacier. But we took the opportunity to get all the climbers out, but my co-leader, JJ, is back there at Union. So we will hope to have him to join us tomorrow. That would be nice if that works out. We will see what the weather does.
We have our Base Camp built and conditions aren’t too bad here right now. We are pretty optimistic and pretty pleased with our selves getting all the way in, two big important flights done and we can start concentrating on the mountain.
Thank you,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in upon arrival at Vinson Base Camp.
Yahoo! You’re there! Continued safety and good fortune! See you next update!
Posted by: Kristin H. on 11/27/2014 at 4:31 pm
Wonderful!!! Great news and hope the weather holds. Happy Thanksgiving and my alarm is set for 7:30 am daily to especially think of you then. Blessings to all. Love to Chris. Mom
Posted by: Carol Colleran on 11/27/2014 at 11:43 am
True to the forecasters' predictions the weather in Punta was clear and calm this morning and shortly before 8am we arrived at the Punta Arenas airport. We piled out of the bus and walked through the nearly empty terminal, a line of climbers wearing layers of down, gore tex and expedition boots waiting patiently with passports in hand to pass through airport security. Shortly thereafter the pilot gave us the thumbs up and we headed out onto the Tarmac to board the plane. The Ilyushin is a giant Russian built cargo jet made for field landings with a glass nose and the plane was full of equipment and supplies bound for the Ice with just a few rows of seats in the front of the cargo area. We climbed onboard and settled into our seats while the Kazakh crew gave us the safety briefing. Within a few more minutes we were airborne flying south.
The interior of the windowless plane doesn't offer much in the way of entertainment but the crew has rigged a gopro to film the view from the cockpit and it displays on a tv screen at the front of the cargo area. We spent the next 4.5 hrs swapping stories, reading, and gazing at the screen while we watched the southern tip of South America disappear behind us then a stretch of ocean that gradually filled with ice until all we could see was an expanse of white stretching out in all directions. As we neared Union Glacier the crew gave us a weather report: -15C and winds 10-15 out of the south - a beautiful Antarctic day. We all bundled up, adding layers of down and hats, sunscreen and gloves, as the plane lost altitude. On the screen the expanse of white began to be interspersed by rocky outcroppings and small windswept peaks - the foothills of the Ellsworth Mountains. Soon a faint strip of blue came into view: the ice runway of Union Glacier. Needless to say, landing a fully ladened cargo jet on a ice runway takes a long time to stop!
Stepping out of the plane was incredible: we were surrounded by an expanse of ice and snow framed by mountains in every direction. Glaciers that seemed close enough to reach out and touch them were really 6-10 miles away. The cold snow and ice squeaked underfoot and the light breeze felt like a biting wind. With all of our gear unloaded we caught a ride in ALE's big oversized vans to their camp where we were greeted by their staff. They served us a delicious hot meal on the ice while they took stock of the weather and the loads and then delivered more good news: the weather was holding and they felt comfortable flying us the final leg to Vinson Base Camp. We hurriedly finished our hot drinks, grabbed our bags, and then climbed aboard the smaller Twin Otter aircraft parked outside.
The flight along the edge of the Ellsworth Mountains went smoothly, we climbed steeply out of Union Glacier, passing through a layer of thin clouds, to an elevation of about 9500' and the flew north. To our left the Antarctic Ice Sheet stretched into the horizon while on our right a series of peaks passed by, gradually getting larger and larger until suddenly the Vinson Massif itself sprang into view. A 4,000'+ wall of rock and cascading glaciers guards most of the Vinson Massif and towers above the surrounding ice. We flew along the walls until the plane banked a hard sweeping downward turn and we came to a smooth stop on the Branscomb Glacier at Vinson Base Camp.
We unloaded our gear from the plane, thanked the pilot, and then set to work establishing camp and setting up shop. We are now cozy in our sleeping bags and it's nearing midnight while the sun still shines on our tent. A thin layer of clouds has been moving over camp and the temperature is downright chilly in the shade but were staying warm and are thrilled to be here. We can't believe our good fortune in getting to the mountain so smoothly. Tomorrow were hoping to move a portion of our gear to the base of the steeper climbing at Camp 1 and find some good glacier skiing on our way back to Base Camp.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team
On this Thanksgiving morning I am thankful for your arrival at base camp and your great communication along with technology that allows it.
Posted by: carol colleran on 11/27/2014 at 6:27 am
As planned, we completed packing today. Our bags were heavy and ready for an 11 AM weigh-in down in the hotel lobby. It was a relief to then load them onto the ALE cargo truck and to be done with them. The team members had one last day of individuality in which to indulge in Punta Arenas. Some went along the shore for miles, stretching their legs and exploring the fringes of town. Others shopped or exercised. And some napped and caught up on correspondence. At five in the evening, we migrated the four or five blocks over to ALE's headquarters for a briefing on the logistics of our planned trip. Within a few moments of arriving, we were informed that weather was so good around Union Glacier, that there would not be any "stand-by" and no tension of waiting for a phone call... The flight was on, plain and simple, be ready for pickup first thing in the morning. We enjoyed a few celebratory cocktails, an informative slideshow and then a great dinner out. We were torn between the urge to celebrate and raise toast after toast... And the need to get back to the rooms for a full night's rest.
Moderation won out, we have high, high hopes for a big day tomorrow. A trip to Antarctica's interior and a great deal closer to the Vinson Massif.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Great to read that weather is awesome and you are off on what I hope will be a fantastic time. Good luck! Big hug for the group -
Peter’s sister.
Posted by: Diana Olney on 11/26/2014 at 5:27 pm
Good luck and can’t wait to read all about it!
Posted by: Kristin H. on 11/26/2014 at 2:20 pm
Peter and J.J. —To my Elbrus teammates…. I am thinking of you and I know you can do it…. Blessings to the entire team
Posted by: john baker on 12/2/2014 at 1:21 pm
Can’t believe you are already primed for the summit. Seems like you just got there. Hope the climb is all you dreamed it would be. Good luck to the team and to my love.
Bonny
Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 12/1/2014 at 3:30 pm
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