Entries By pepper dee
June 16, 2016
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Hannah McGowan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
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The vast majority of climbers that come climb Mt. Rainier with us live in decidedly unmountainous places. As a former fellow flatlander, I can sympathize. There is actually a surprising amount of training literature out there targeted at folks living in mountain towns (think gaining 3,000 feet twice a week), and recently, folks training for high end alpinism (think Steve House). But when it comes to “Joe Climber” living in Kansas hoping to be strong on Denali or Mt. Rainier, in my experience there is a real gap in available resources. I don’t claim to be an expert on the subject, but I certainly have strong opinions as to how best to go about this type of training, based on my own personal experience. And so, without further ado, I present to you the 4 principles of the flatlander’s guide to mountaineering training:
Diversify your training. Face it. You live in the Midwest. The terrain that directly simulates your mountaineering objective does not exist in your backyard. Therefore no single exercise or activity can adequately prepare you for that objective, which means that you must pursue a wide variety of training activities. If all “Joe Climber” does to train for his Rainier climb is run, he will be in great shape for running. But he will not be in great shape for Rainier. Which leads me to the second principle...
Emphasize strength training. When we say you need to be strong for the mountains, we mean that quite literally. Carrying big loads uphill and downhill day after day requires a significant amount of muscle recruitment, and you can’t recruit it if it’s not there. The majority of my time training in the flatlands is actually spent in the gym, performing exercises that emphasize muscular and core strength. I’ll save my personal lifting program for another article, but I’m a big believer in free weights and olympic lifting, rather than machines. Performing a squat using perfect technique not only builds strength in your butt, quads, and calves, but also strengthens your core/low back and improves your balance. No single machine can do all this, and machines can even lead to injury by over-strengthening certain muscle groups at the expense of others.
When it comes to cardio, think long duration/low intensity. As a mountaineer, we work best in our aerobic zone. This is why we pressure breathe, rest step, and do everything we can to conserve energy in the mountains. So when we train, it makes sense to maximize our output in what Steve House and Scott Johnston refer to as “Zone 1.” To quote their book, Training for the New Alpinism, “Improving [Zone 1 fitness] will pay bigger dividends in alpine climbing than time spent improving any other quality because it allows you to sustain higher submaximal climbing speeds for longer times” (58). And to reiterate my first principle, mix it up! I’ll run, I’ll swim, I’ll bike, I’ll run up stadium stairs if available. But when I do, I’ll shoot to be moving for at least 90 minutes.
The best defense against altitude is hyper-attentive self care before and during the trip. Altitude weighs heavily on most climbers’ minds pre-trip (particularly those climbers living in the flatlands), and for good reason: more than any other aspect of a mountaineering trip, how your body responds to altitude is the one factor you can’t fully control. But you can stack the odds heavily in your favor. Before the trip leaves, be sure you are on a consistent and complete sleep schedule. Be sure you are eating well. I’ve talked to guides who swear by airborne, or probiotics. Everyone’s a little different, but if you find a supplement that consistently keeps you healthy, go with it. On the trip itself, dealing with altitude becomes even more straightforward. Never let yourself get too cold. Force yourself to eat. Force yourself to drink. Force yourself to breathe. The climbers that take these four concepts to heart, nine times out of ten, are the climbers who summit.
So what do you do with these principles? Well, you construct a training schedule. My schedule, as a college student in Massachusetts training for Denali, looked something like this:
Monday: AM-swim PM-lift
Tuesday: PM-water jug hill repeats
Wednesday: PM-circuit training/lift
Thursday: PM-long run (90 min+)
Friday: AM-swim PM-lift
Saturday: PM-bike
Sunday: Rest
There are a lot of ways to construct a solid training schedule. I was limited that year by classes, other obligations, and going rock and ice climbing whenever I got the chance. But keeping in mind the four principles, I was able to train my way into comfort on Denali, all while living in a flat location. Now, train hard, rest hard, and I’ll see you in the mountains!
_____
Pepper Dee grew up in Missouri, but found his love for the mountains at an early age. Based out of Bozeman, he guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Denali, and abroad to Aconcagua. A long time flatlander, Pepper knows what it takes to prepare for a big climb without the luxury of mountains in his backyard.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
if you have any west Virginia climbers a good training location is the Kaymoor Miners trail in Fayetteville WV on the New River Gorge. About 900 ft elevation over all. the bottom 1/2 is a stairs of 821 steps. great workout!
Posted by: rob dunn on 3/14/2017 at 11:39 am
January 11, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Great to meet you and have some fun with your team!
Cheers! Fred
Posted by: Fred Doar on 1/17/2016 at 4:07 pm
Hi Eric Leger & ACONCAGUA Team: It was a nice experience following along on your journey through the blog. Thank you so much. You have so much to be proud of in all that you were able to experience in your mind/body/spirit. Wishing you all safe travels home.
“It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves” -Edmund Hillary
~MIllie
Posted by: millie Chase on 1/13/2016 at 7:07 am
January 10, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Bonjour Éric,
Un petit message qui j’espère t’arrivera où que tu sois. Je suis sûr que tu réussis à atteindre tes objectifs. Et pour une fois, oublie ce vieux dicton qui dit : “Quand tu as atteint le sommet de la montagne, continue de grimper”. On pense à toi, on t’aime et n’hésite pas si tu as le moindre problème pour redescendre à m’appeler : je ferai le max ! À tantôt, Phil
Posted by: Phil on 1/11/2016 at 7:36 am
Hey Brad! We sure hope the weather turns enough for you to summit. We can’t wait to hear all about your trip and hope it will include a summit. If not, it sure will be great memories for yall, just stay safe. As big as that mountain is, just know that you are loved even more, way more!! We think about you every day. We love and miss you! Love Mimi and Dad XO
Posted by: Mimi Rearden on 1/11/2016 at 7:18 am
January 7, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
On The Map
Brad & Co… Still hoping for better conditions for you guys! Hang tough and I’m sure you guys will get to push up and summit soon! Until then, rest up and keep your head down! Good Luck!
Still following along daily..
JD
Posted by: J Davis on 1/9/2016 at 9:13 pm
Brad & Brian:
Hang in there…hope the weather is better soon and you get to the summit. Miss you and will be glad when you are safely back home…stay warm.
Posted by: Bobbi Birt on 1/8/2016 at 2:44 pm
January 6, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
JJ Justman and Pepper Dee Checking in from Camp One on Aconcagua.
Brian and Brad: I hate to hear that the weather isn’t cooperating…y’all will have to make the most of it - swapping stories while you’re holed up in the tents.
Posted by: Johnny on 1/7/2016 at 10:33 am
Congratulations, everyone!!! Please continue to hydrate and to err on the side of caution.
God bless every single one of you. Mama Kucik
Posted by: Karen Kucik on 1/7/2016 at 6:41 am
January 5, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
On The Map
Brian—Worried about you—you are my favorite Bulldog and I am counting on you to kick butt
with Mother Nature!
Posted by: Dan McIntyre on 1/8/2016 at 7:07 pm
JJ—you da man—climb strong and safe!
rc
Posted by: randy c on 1/6/2016 at 10:26 am
January 4, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
On The Map
Hey Dad (Mike)!! So glad to read that you all are having a great trek! Cheering you on from VA.
Love,
Devon & the kiddos
Posted by: Devon on 1/4/2016 at 8:37 pm
Yum, potato hash! TJ is jealous. The boys are all caught up on your progress, babe, and we are cheering you on from afar.
FYI: We managed to frontline two kitties (with Townsend’s help). One has evaded us; can you guess who?!
Love you and miss you, Terry/Daddy.
Posted by: Amanda, TJ and Townsend on 1/4/2016 at 5:54 pm
January 3, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
On The Map
Who is the Packer fan? I love my Green Bay Packers but they let the Vikings beat them. Oh well, on to Washington. Good luck to all, especially Terry! Thinking about you. Judi
Posted by: Judi Harper on 1/6/2016 at 2:27 pm
Brad and Brian:
Hope you guys are having fun. Be safe. Looking forward to having you home! Happy Trails!
Posted by: Bobbi Birt on 1/5/2016 at 4:59 am
January 2, 2016
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
On The Map
The stir-man is pulling for y’all! Crush it!!
Posted by: Johnny on 1/4/2016 at 7:19 am
Hope you are having a great day and get some rest! We enjoyed spending time yesterday with
Becky, Halle, Brody and Jake. We ate at Chiles, one of our favorite places. Everyone is doing great.
We miss you, stay safe. Dad took pictures of the lake and it is something to see.
Posted by: Mom and Dad on 1/3/2016 at 9:32 am
What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!
Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.
Use your core ;)
Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am
Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!!
Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm
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