Entries By garrett stevens
June 3, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Monday, June 3, 2013
Today was a day of light work and much chilling. We were able to sleep in later than any other day so far, which is always a nice treat i
n the mountains. We did get some fresh snow overnight, so we spent the first few minutes of the day clearing off tents and backpacks. But by 9:30 we were all feasting on righteous breakfast quesadillas filled with fluffy eggs, crispy bacon, melted cheese and topped with hot sauce, which fueled the crew for our back-carry.
We headed back down to our cache and retrieved all our gear, and began the grind back to camp. While the oblong sleds dragged a little in the new snow, we were still able to complete the trip quickly, and before 1 o'clock we were back in camp. Now we are enjoying all the delicious lunch food we had cached, gorging on tasty morsels.
The team is currently resting and getting ready for a hard day of work tomorrow. We're planning to carry a load up to 14K' camp, and the stretch of mountain between here and there will be the most difficult terrain so far. While it may seem like mountain climbers have some strange fetish for being cold, smelly and sore, there is no substitute for the reward you feel at the end of hard day of climbing. We'll check back in tomorrow with an update, so until then keep sending positive energy and wishes for high pressure!
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, and the Crew
On The Map
June 2, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, June 2, 2013
Today we woke to a splitter red sky, the most beautiful morning of our trip. As the saying goes, though: red sky in morning, climbers take warning! The weather continues to cloud up and a few snow flakes have fallen between breaks in the clouds. This change is rather abstract compared to the last few week of very high pressure over the region. With an early start the
team climbed well for 5 hrs. We now find ourselves enjoying some well earned down time back in the tents eating, drinking, sleeping and chatting. Most importantly hiding from the seemingly gorilla strength sun rays in our new home at 11k. Tomorrow we plan to sleep in, have a deluxe breakfast, and retrieve our luggage just a short way down the hill. Each of our team members want to say hi to family and friends; we are doing great and love you all! We'll check in after our grocery shoppe and petrol refill.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Garrett Stevens
On The Map
June 1, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday, June 1, 2013
This morning we got up at 4 am as planned to carry our first load of luggage up towards 11,000'. Breakfast was a quick affair of granola cereal and bars, and by 5:30 the team was underway. Our slow, steady pace helped us gain elevation, while the moderate breeze blowing down the glacier kept anyone from overheating. The peaks of the Alaska range glowed at the tops as the sun crept higher in the east, lighting the summit ridges of
Mt. Crosson and Kahiltna Dome. Looking back down the main Kahiltna Glacier at our breaks, we were treated to a morning view few people get to enjoy: snow, ice and rock in every direction, sculpted by nature into a cathedral worthy of reverence.
All too soon we arrived at our cache location, but we enjoyed the acclimatization benefits of working a little bit at 10,000'. The crew all worked well and within minutes we had safely buried all our gear and turned back towards our warm tents at 7,800'. The pace was quicker as we dropped back down, and we were soon dropping our packs and crawling back into our tents to avoid the ruthless solar radiation. The team is now focused on rest and rehydration, preparing for our move to camp at 11,000' tomorrow.
We'll keep you posted as we continue to climb higher, stay tuned!
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett and the Crew
On The Map
May 31, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 31, 2013 at 1:30 pm PT
We have made our first move up the mountain to the base of Ski Hill at 7,800' on the main Kahiltna Glacier.
Since our arrival yesterday we enjoyed a great first feast of totally loaded quesadillas and snoozed up just a few hours of rest before the 2am wake up. We organized our literal mountain of equipment and food in to individual group loads for what will hopefully be our only single carry. This mean we won't have to carry all our equipment at once but rather double carry, stashing equipment high and gaining fitness through mileage with manageable packs. Mileage is what we will need as the days grow harder and longer the higher we climb.
The arduous loads were all near 100 pounds each. Every climber on our team did a fabulous job getting the heaviest day of the trip over with. We are now truly underway and five miles closer to our goal of reaching "The High One"
Denali.
We hope to carry equipment to around 10,000' tomorrow and return to recently renovated camp at 7,800'. We are going to catch some midday ZZZs and hide from the sun!
Will check in tomorrow,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
May 30, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Thursday, May 30, 2013
Tyler and Garrett checking in from
RMI Denali Expedition Number 4. Yesterday afternoon found us in the ranger station getting some good details about the route, our responsibilities on the mountain, and what we can expect to see as we climb higher. Interestingly, we also were reminded that this year is the 100-year anniversary of the first ascent. While we have the benefit of fancy new gear and a century of knowledge, the actual climb of
Denali remains as challenging as it was in 1913, and our team is ready to tackle that challenge.
We landed on the glacier today, and we're currently camped out in Basecamp. The mostly clear skies and warm temperatures make it hard to believe we're almost at the Arctic Circle! Because it's so warm here, we won't be heading out for our first camp until later tonight (more like early in the morning) so that the snow will freeze up and make our walking a little smoother.
Everyone is excited to have gotten a smooth start to the trip, and we're hoping the weather continues to hold. We'll check back in tomorrow, keep it dialed in for more!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones and
Garrett Stevens
On The Map
May 29, 2013
Posted by: Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 248'
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Greetings from beautiful
Talkeetna, Alaska! The team arrived yesterday afternoon with big bags, bigger smiles, and high hopes for our Denali expedition. After a round of introductions, we hit the road and headed north from Anchorage. We stopped for last minute food and supplies in Wasilla, and pulled into town about 8 o'clock last night. We transferred all our luggage into the hangar, had dinner, and headed to bed in anticipation of an early start today.
Our morning started with a delicious breakfast at the roadhouse, and rolled right on into a massive gear sort/pack session at the hangar. The team gear piles started out big but have been trimmed down to nice tight kits for the mountain. This afternoon will be occupied by our briefing with the Park Service and a final round of packing, so we should be in great position to fly tomorrow morning (provided the weather cooperates, of course).
Blue skies and sunshine prevail today, so keep your fingers crossed that the high pressure will hold for tomorrow. More to come, stay tuned!
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones &
Garrett Stevens
May 22, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 346'
This morning we woke up early, broke camp and flew off the
Kahiltna Glacier. We are now enjoying a nice meal at the West Rib Pub. The group is doing fantastic and we all looking forward to a warm shower. All and all and incredible time with everyone.
Thank you all for the fantastic time!!!!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
May 22, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
After our unsuccessful attempt climbing
Radio Tower due avalanche conditions, we spent our last day hiking to the first camp on Denali. We all had the opportunity to pull sleds and go for a long glacier hike. The group enjoyed the views and exercise that took to get there. We finished our day climbing up Heartbreak Hill back to Denali Base Camp. All and all a fantastic day.
Tomorrow we will be packing our camp and be flying at noon back to Talkeetna.
RMI Guide
Andres Marin
May 20, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
There is something about ice climbing in a crevasse that is just mind blowing. Today the group got to experience ice climbing and how much fun it is.
We headed for the foot hills of
Mt. Francis to find a deep crevasse suitable for great climbing. Big smiles all day long. Tomorrow we are getting ready to go climbing Radio Tower. The team is excited to climb higher tomorrow and are doing well!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
May 19, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Today we woke up with clear skies! After breakfast we shouldered our packs and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork of the
Kahiltna Glacier. The Fork offers spectacular views of the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, South Face of Radio Tower, and the West Face of Kahiltna Queen. We also learned about snow anchors and glacier travel. It was really nice to be able to stretch our legs and hike around. It certainly was a fantastic day.
We also had the opportunity to eat dinner outside enjoying the incredible views. The weather is looking nice for the rest of the week, so we will be getting around.
Everyone is doing great!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
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James and the team,
Greeting…glad to see everyone is making safe and steady climbing, having fresh snow overnight, and eating well. Stay strong and enjoy majestic views on the mountain covered with snow. Praying for safe journey. Can’t wait to see awesome pictures!
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/4/2013 at 5:02 pm
To James Choo -
Just learned that Walter Glover will be doing the Mt. Rainier 5-day Summit Climb, June 13-17.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/4/2013 at 2:29 pm
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