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RMI Expeditions Blog


Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

Saturday, June 24, 2023 7:39 am PDT

We’re at Basecamp and I think there is a good chance we will fly. We’ll let everyone know when we arrive in Talkeetna.

Friday, June, 23, 2023 8:28 pm PDT

The crew descended down to 11,000’ Camp where we will depart for basecamp during the night in hopes of flying off the mountain Saturday.

The weather has not been all that kind to us on this trip and we are in and out of snow as clouds stream up the Kahiltna glacier up and over Kahiltna pass. We’re hoping for flyable weather tomorrow but know that no one has flown off the mountain since Monday. Hopefully the next time you here from us, we’ll Be in Talkeetna!

RMI Guide Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

What a disappointment! This will make a third strike and out for eel/camel! Now the next time he sees a Denali will be when he visits us in Washington and our Alaskan Malamute, named Denali, will greet him at the front door. Time to move on my son.

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/24/2023 at 9:30 am


Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Turn at 16,800’ Due to Avalanche Risk

Friday, June 23, 2023, 8:40 am PDT

Our Team is back at 14,000’ Camp after a long day of waist to chest trail breaking and ultimately avalanche conditions on the West Buttress. We made it to Washburn’s Thumb at 16,800’, all pickets were buried and not found except for the ones near slopes that naturally avalanche. The Autobahn is incredibly loaded with snow, and I am sure you will not find a single one of the 35 pickets across it!

Our plan is to head to the airstrip tonight and hope to fly.  No one has flown since last Sunday and snow is in the forecast all week, so we will see!

RMI Guide Andy Bond and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing achievement!  So proud of your perseverance and grateful for your respect for the awesomeness of nature.

Posted by: Len Stevens on 6/24/2023 at 6:08 am

A disappointment, but not a defeat.  You measured up well against one of the sternest challenges.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/23/2023 at 9:12 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Cache Gear at 13,200’

Thursday, June 22. 2023 10:57 PM PDT

There were signs of improvement - or simply a change in the weather. It was still snowing a little and blowing a little, but it wasn't all that cold. We watched clouds and wind for a while, then pulled the trigger.

We set out from 11,000’ Camp at 11 AM and made fine progress up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills. The Polo Field put up a little resistance, we had to break trail through new snow to reach Windy Corner at 13,200 ft. The clouds denied us the big views. But we were excited to see Denali's South Peak and the West Buttress as we came around the corner and reached our 13,500’ goal for the day. We cached gear and got moving downhill with lighter packs, pulling back into 11,000’ Camp by 6 PM.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

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Denali Expedition: Cifelli and Team Cache Gear - Ready to Move

Thursday, June 22, 2023 - 8:27pm

Yes! After experiencing days of snow and wind delay, the team was blessed with a sufficient weather window to depart the 11,000’ Camp and resume climbing. The objective for today was to cache food stores for future retrieval once the 14,000’ Camp is established. Morale was high as the team stepped off smartly after consuming an amazing breakfast of toasted bagels topped with cream cheese and bacon.

A smooth pace was set up on the significant incline of Motorcycle Hill.  The snow was not too deep for crampons. At the top, the team turned right and proceeded up Squirrel Hill, admiring the beauty of Father and Son Walland, the impressively sharp drop off of Peters Glacier.  Intermittent gusty winds had already exposed some patches down to the blue ice beneath, but our crampons, ice axes, and ropes kept everyone safe and secure. Next came the crossing of the Polo Fields where the snow was quite deep and powdery. Our guides elected to cache a bit short of Windy Corner today. Everyone unloaded the group and personal food for burial in the snow.

The reverse route going downhill was surprisingly quick and in no time the team was back in camp.  Hopes are high that we will have an opportunity to move up to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow and continue our acclimatization for the higher altitudes yet to come. It was a great day!

RMI Climber Rick Sturckow & Team

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Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Team Summits!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am this morning. Jess reported clear crisp skies, and a great route. The team will enjoy time on the summit snapping photos and taking in the breathtaking views before starting their descent. 

Congratulations Team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the team and especially Ryan Hofer!!  Proud of you!!

Posted by: Mike on 6/23/2023 at 9:04 am

ANNALISA! I am SO proud of you. This is such a huge goal that you accomplished. I can’t wait to hear all about it and see the photos. On to the next summit!

Posted by: Erika on 6/23/2023 at 8:23 am


Denali Expedition: Andy Bond and Team Play the Waiting Game at 14,000’

Wednesday June 21, 2023

Today the team woke up to Groundhog Day!

It has continued to snow but was relatively mild as far as temps and wind go. We masterfully killed a chunk of time in the morning by making a long brunch. After retiring to our tents for the afternoon, we regrouped and planned our potential launch to 17k camp for the next day over some golden, brown, and delicious burritos.

RMI Guide Joey Manship and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Fingers and toes crossed for your summit window. Stay safe and Godspeed.

Posted by: Nancy Forsyth on 6/22/2023 at 5:43 pm

I’m hoping and praying for the news to be from 17,000 when the weather breaks.  Ya’ll stay safe.

I can’t wait to see pictures!  What a quest!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 6/22/2023 at 3:57 pm


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climbers Reach the Summit

The team of American Lung Association (ALA) climbers on the Four Day Climb June 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Abby Westling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The climbers enjoyed blue skies and sunshine on their ascent and were able to spend some time in the crater.  Abby and the team started their descent from the crater rim around 8:30 am en route to Camp Muir.  Once back at camp, they will get a short rest before continuing down to Paradise.  The program ends this evening with a celebration for the team members for their hardwork and contributions to the American Lung Association. 

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats team! Such an amazing accomplishment.

Posted by: Steve Albert on 6/22/2023 at 8:24 pm

Congratulations to the whole team!
Excellent job on your climbing accomplishments! You all did a fantastic job raising money for the “ Clean Breathe “ cause. To my daughter Lori 25 years ago you worried me to death! I had no idea what I was going to do if something happened and I had to raise your children NOW 25 years later I couldn’t sleep with worry , if something happened to you who would take care of me ? LOL!  We are so proud of you and all your accomplishments! Love Mom and Dad Hooper

Posted by: “Dad and Mom” Hooper on 6/22/2023 at 9:33 am


Mt. Rainier: Grom & Team Reach Summit on Beautiful Day

RMI Guide Casey Grom & the Four Day Climb June 19 - 22 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The weather is beautiful with blue skies and a few broken clouds.  The team was able to spend about an hour on the summit before starting their descent.  The teams left the crater rim around 8:30 am to return to Camp Muir.  After a brief stop to repack and refuel they will continue to descend the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.  We look forward to their return to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Nice work team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Way to go, Casey and Team!  You must be a good luck charm, buddy!

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 6/22/2023 at 10:04 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Celebrate Summer in a Snow storm

Wednesday, June 21, 2023 - 10:38 pm PT

Another storm day at 11,000'. Though not the worst storm, mostly cloud and snow without a lot of wind where we are... but of course that is why we are camped here. We did a long and slow breakfast, sipping coffee and telling stories. We hung out in our tents, napping, reading and watching tv and then it was burrito night. We celebrated Mitch's birthday and celebrated solstice in our snowstorm.  We hope to get climbing again soon but we need the storm to move along first.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love you, Dustin!! Be safe up there.
-Alissa

Posted by: Alissa Turosik on 6/23/2023 at 8:12 am

Hey Dustin!
Sending best wishes for clear skies and calm winds for the rest of your climb!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/23/2023 at 3:29 am


Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Practice Crampon Skills, Wait for Better Weather

Wednesday, June 21, 2023 - 7:19 pm PT

Our night of snow storms was briefly broken by clear skies and stunning views, at least for the 2am night owls. By 7, back to snow and low visibility, thus another rest day.

The team finally woke at a leisurely 8am, and gathered in the cook tent for an extraordinary breakfast. Hard at work, our tireless guides had put together pan-fried breakfast burritos that would give any cafe a run for its money. No cap. Seth may consider an alternate career as Chipotle’s chief burrito roller. Sated and happy, the group later headed out during a brief weather interlude to practice crampon skills. The next days of the climb will necessitate these on the steeper and icier terrain. With no one stabbed or stepped on, the outing was considered a success. Relaxation ensured the remainder of the afternoon as movies were watched, books were read, and an unlikely duet belted out classics by The Who. 

We are well rested and ready to hopefully cache just past Windy Corner tomorrow, and continue our journey upwards.

RMI climber Alex Smith

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Safe travels moving upward!

Posted by: Jenni on 6/22/2023 at 11:49 am

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