RMI Expeditions Blog
May 29, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 29 12:04am PT
This morning we woke up with the goal of caching gear and food as close to 17 camp as possible. As we passed each of the normal places people cache below 17 camp, such as the top of the fixed lines, below Washburns thumb etc., we just couldn’t find a reason to not keep going.
The weather was perfect, not a whisper of wind, and the views endless. The team was performing extremely well at such high altitude for the first time this trip, not to mention how they floated through the most technical terrain we’ve encountered thus far, so we went all the way to 17,000 ft camp. After digging ourselves a hole to cache in, we retraced our steps back down the west buttress and the fixed lines until we rolled into camp just as the shadow of the mountain engulfed the tent city.
All in all, a successful day completed by a strong team!
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 28 10:29pm PT
It was a perfect day to rest and regroup from our foray yesterday. The sun was out, temps were warm, and everything was calm. We also got a forecast that looks really promising for the next several days. We took another trip to the edge of the world - last time heat induced clouds were rising up from the glaciers below and it felt like the edge of the world, past which there was nothing, just a white void. Today we could see who down the Kahiltna and get a sense for the sheer scale of it all.
We are headed towards bed pretty hopeful that we are waking to similar weather tomorrow and good conditions to move up.
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
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May 28 7:43pm PT
The wind died today which meant that with the sun it felt very hot on the glacier today. We moved our camp south, closer to base camp and closer to some areas that have terrain features that are good for training and climbing. We spent the afternoon hiding from the sun in our new camp, We just finished an early dinner and are going do some evening ice climbing now that the temperatures have quelled.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday and Team
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike King, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,500'
May 28 5:15pm PT
Checking in from Nuevos Hortizantes Refugio!
The entire team, 20 of us plus 5 local guides, are in place for a summit attempt on Iliniza Norte. This is an important part of our preparation for Cotopaxi. Today we climbed three hours and 2700 ft under cloudy skies to reach the hut. We'll set out at 6 AM to go toward the 16,818' summit. Hoping for clear skies and grand views. Perhaps we'll get some good exercise.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 7,600'
We woke up to nearly perfect weather. Cool temperatures, clear skies and close to no breeze.
After a quick breakfast of Cinnamon Toast Crunch, we loaded up our packs and sleds with group meals, personal food, and some technical gear we wouldn't need over the next few days and embarked on our first carry. Yesterday was a long hard slog, but luckily the only time we move all our food and gear uphill, from here on our we will be carrying food and gear uphill, caching it, climbing past it to our next camp, and then doing a back carry to go get it. So that's exactly what we did today. We carried our gear from the base of ski hill, up towards our next camp and cached it near 10,000'.
Tomorrow we will hopefully move to 11 camp and go get the cache the following day. For now, we are all back at camp, resting in the shade, eating snacks, and prepping for our move tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
One safe step at a time, Rob. You are impressive. What a breathtaking experience. Keep at it!
Sending you sisterly love, and support to you and your team!
Lynn.
Posted by: Lynn on 5/29/2022 at 8:24 pm
Rob go Rob Go. My the force be with you. Cheering you on in spirit from Gina Rae.
Posted by: Gina Rae Hendrickson on 5/29/2022 at 3:06 pm
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mike King, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,696'
Our team made it down to Ecuador yesterday and this morning. By midday we were together in Quito and ready to stretch out after travel. We need exercise and altitude to get prepared for our climb of Cotopaxi in a few days. We took a bus ride through the bustling and vibrant city to the tram onto the slopes of Rucu Pichincha. The teleferico got us way up to 13,500 ft in a hurry. It was cloudy, so we only had glimpses of the bases of the great volcanoes, but conditions were just fine for strolling along the trails. We enjoyed seeing Caracaras (colorful hawks) and went close to 14,000 ft in altitude. By then the hour was getting late and we decided to call it good for a big first day in Ecuador. We had an easy walk down, a few coffees and donuts for the tram ride, and then a trip back to the hotel. We finished with a fine dinner and a plan for setting out for further altitude training in the morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT
We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.
Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
We’re keeping track of all of you every day. What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali. I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too. Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being. Barbara/Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm
Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).
Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm
May 28, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday May 27, 2022 10:37pm PT
It was a beautiful day today at 14,000' camp. We slept in, ate breakfast burritos, then napped, read and ate some more.
After reviewing some more mountaineering skills, we ate more burritos for dinner. With the sunny skies, warm temperatures and the menu today, it almost felt like we were in Mexico.
Stay tuned for what we get up to tomorrow!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali Team
Great progress so far! Hope you enjoy some well deserved R&R!
Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/29/2022 at 6:56 am
Go Team RMI - sending positive thoughts and wishes from Mount Washington NH!
Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2022 at 3:47 am
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 27, 2022 6:55pm PT
We attempted to reach 17,000’camp today but were thwarted by high winds just above the top of the fixed lines. After several days waiting for favorable weather, we were all antsy to get moving, but the risk of frostbite made descending an easy call. We are currently back at 14,000’ camp and are going to assess our options for the coming days.
RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo and Team
“Success is not final, failure is not fatal; It is the courage to continue that counts.” — Winston Churchill
Posted by: Jami L on 5/28/2022 at 8:53 pm
We are so proud of you Michael! Keep on keepin’ on!! We are all rooting for you! Love you lots!
Posted by: Anne P on 5/28/2022 at 6:47 pm
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
Today we awoke to the same relentless north wind that made the air feel cold, but after breakfast we decided that we needed to get out and do some training. We walked to a nearby area of tension cracks on the glacier and practiced crevasse rescue until our brains were full. We are back in camp now resting out of the wind.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday & Team
Strong team makes big progress at high altitudes. We love it!
Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/30/2022 at 4:59 am
Way to go guys! Thinking of you all and hoping for fair weather the next few days. Just back from a week of sailing in gale force winds on the west coast of Scotland so am very glad you don’t have that!! Love, Charles and Jennifer.
Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/29/2022 at 12:53 pm
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