RMI Expeditions Blog
June 18, 2022
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, June 17, 2022 10:41pm PT
Today we fled the thin air of 17 camp for the more tolerable altitude of a mere 14,000 feet. It might seem easy but descending was anything but that. The team was definitely still in a energy and hydration deficit from summit day. So on weak, sore and wobbly legs we made our way down the West Ridge, slithered our way down the fix lines and groaned, moaned and hobble down the final hill into camp. Everyone quickly scurried into their tents for some much deserved rest. A hearty meal of bacon mac & cheese was swallowed with gusto and then off to early bed. We still have thousands of feet and many miles before we make it to the airstrip.
Talkeetna here we come!
RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team
June 18, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Due to avalanche activity, the Four Day Climb with RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday did not climb above Camp Muir this morning. The mountain received 8+" of new snow yesterday afternoon and there were numerous slides on the Cowlitz Glacier with several going over the trail. In the first picture, you can see evidence of avalanche debris that has been deposited along the first steps of the route.
The team has started their descent and will back at Ashford Basecamp early this afternoon.
Happy Birthday to my son Davis!
Posted by: Sherry Yonge on 6/18/2022 at 1:58 pm
8+’ ? Surely that’s in inches! Let’s all hope the weather improves and parties stay safe.
Posted by: David on 6/18/2022 at 11:25 am
June 18, 2022
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Kiira Antenucci, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Evening everyone,
Who knew climbing Denali had so much resting involved in it. We all train for the heavy packs, long days, thousands of feet of elevation gained. What we don't train for is all the tent time. Time in the tent is important for our bodies to adjust to the altitude but it can be a challenge for the mind. Boredom can sink in very quickly. One must be good at self entertainment and comfortable with you, yourself, and I. It's a crucial skill of the mountain life and the team is currently learning it. Even with all the down time, today went fast. Per usual for our trip so far we had sun, we had clouds and we had snow flurries. A mixture of weather keeps it interesting. Now that we are rested we are ready to move onward and upward. Hopefully tomorrow the weather holds and we are able to move to 14k camp. It will be a welcomed move with new views, a new camp, and likely new neighbors.
Send all your good weather vibes,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
Woooo! Go Yvonne and Nathan!!! Keep crushing it. Praying to the weather gods.
Posted by: Bowie on 6/19/2022 at 8:10 am
Hey Hannah! Sending you and your Team the best wishes for the Perfect weather!! Climb Strong and Rest Strong!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/19/2022 at 2:50 am
June 18, 2022
Posted by: Andy Bond, Grayson Swingle, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
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After an early breakfast In Talkeetna we loaded our gear in the single otter airplanes and changed into our mountain attire before taking a scenic flight into the Alaska Range, with the final destination being Kahiltna Base Camp. After another round of shuttling gear, setting up a quick camp and enjoying a quick dinner, it was an early bedtime as we will be getting up in a couple of hours to start our journey up the mountain to Camp 1.
We will check in soon!
RMI Guides Andy, Grayson, and Ben
Good luck Andy and Team!!
Posted by: Bob Lindskov on 6/19/2022 at 9:36 pm
June 17, 2022
Posted by: Mike King, Augi Fleer, Evan Sather, Nick Sinapius
Categories:
Elevation: 9,000'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Mike King has had a successful week of training and Denali Prep. While weather and route conditions kept the team on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier, they were able to take advantage of the time to hone in on their mountaineering skills. The team trained on and discussed the following topics; avalanche forecasting, route finding, crevasse rescue, camp building, and various glacier travel techniques.
Congratulations Team!
Thursday, June 16, 2022 8:42 pm PT
Hello all,
The team made quick work getting ready this morning so we were the first out of camp. A quick warmup of mellow, flattish terrain gives way to a steep slope called motorcycle hill. And what did we do on this hill? We motored on up it. After a quick break we then encountered squirrel hill. Some of the sleds got a little squirrelly but pulled through. The polo fields give a break from so much uphill but still require us to bring our best game. A not so windy windy corner gave way to a holey section that might be a little sporty crossing at the end of the trip. After a few hours of walking we made it to our cache site. Once some snacks were consumed we reversed our steps and headed back to camp. The team, once again, showed they came prepared to climb Denali and are crushing. Tomorrow we will enjoy a rest before we make our move to 14k camp. Everyone is ready for a new home and to be closer to our goal. For tonight, it's time to catch up on Stranger Things.
Goodnight,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
June 17, 2022
Posted by: Bryan Mazaika, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
High winds kept the Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Bryan Mazaika and Matias Francis at Camp Muir overnight. The guides repoted an upper level cloud deck at 11,000' with a lower level cloud deck just above Paradise at 6,000'.
The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.
June 17, 2022
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Friday, June 17, 2022 1:47 AM
June 17th 2022 - THE TEAM SUCCESSFULLY SUMMITS!
Well hot diggity dog we did it! We went to bed with several inconclusive weather forecasts stressing us out and a weather check at 4:30 confirmed cloudy skies. Alas our actual wake up of 6:30 gave us the surprise “nowcast” we had been waiting for, clear skies and no sign of winds! Huzzah! We quickly set about rallying the troops and making hot water for breakfast. When it was all said and done we were walking by 8:30 headed up, up, up! We first scaled the imposing and cold “Autobahn”. A large steep traverse that gains us about a 1,000 feet. Next we zig and zagged through “Zebra Rocks” gaining more elevation rapidly. Next we meandered slowly and steadily uphill crossing the Denali summit plateau until we got to the “Football Field” a large flat zone that led to our final two obstacles. “Pig Hill” and the summit ridge proper! Pig Hill is a daunting final push up several switch backs to gain elevation before traversing the true summit ridge. The Summit Ridge gave us incredible views and big exposure before finally giving way to the true summit itself! The highest point in North America! There was much congratulating and picture taking and before you know it, it was time to head down. We retraced our steps safely and efficiently all the way back to camp. The crew was tired, thirsty and hungry but by jove they’d done it! All told 13 hours round trip. After being fed and watered, it was quickly lights out for everyone.
Talk to you tomorrow friends, family and loved ones!
RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team
Congratulations Heather and everyone on this expedition. What an accomplishment. I saw this image and got chills. I can’t even imagine the feeling of reaching the summit after all your training prior to arriving and then the last three weeks. Heather, thank you so much for fundraising for ANRF and arthritis research. YOU are amazing!
Posted by: Jenn on 6/20/2022 at 6:16 pm
Congratulations to all and Rebecca! Your Mecha Team has been cheering you on from Colorado. We are proud of you! Get home safe and soon!
Posted by: Courtney Hutton on 6/18/2022 at 7:19 pm
June 16, 2022
Posted by: Andy Bond, Grayson Swingle, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
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It is a beautiful, sunny day in Talkeetna. The team is hard at work organizing and packing in preparation to fly into Basecamp tomorrow. Everyone is excited and making last minute decisions on oreos vs. famous amos and apple cider vs. hot chocolate. Decisions, decisions...
RMI Guides Andy, Grayson, Ben and Team
Remember Hyde, no brains…no headaches
Posted by: Josh Wimberley on 6/19/2022 at 10:42 am
Good luck with the climb. Keep us posted!
Posted by: Tomas and Kat on 6/19/2022 at 5:51 am
June 16, 2022
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Friday June 17, 2022 1:47 am PT
Hello everybody!
Sorry for the late post, here’s what happened yesterday! The short story, we moved to 17 camp and it was exhausting. Oh wait, huh? You want the long story. Alright fine….
So we pre-packed as best we could the night before because we were looking to get a early start. Nothing is more annoying than be stuck behind folks on the fixed lines. Lucky for us our plan worked out. We were the first ones out of 14 camp… actually we were one of only two teams moving that day. The weather forecast has been rather wishy washy so I think spooked some teams from moving. Thankfully we had the inside connection to several forecasts and forecasters so we were optimistic that this was the right move. Anyhoo the team styled the fixed lines again, though this time was a little less joyous due to heavy packs crunching down on our hips. At the top of lines we began to climb some of the best terrain of the trip, the West Ridge! It was an exciting mix of snow, rocks, big exposure, beautiful views, running belays and a little more ascending. The weather was perfect and the team had a blast. When we arrived at 17 camp the real work began, building camp! At 17,000 feet you gotta work slow otherwise you’ll exhaust yourself. The team put in a Herculean effort erecting tents, snow block walls and a bathroom. Then it was freeze dried food for dinner and time to get some well deserved sleep. Depending on the “nowcast” if we wake up to good weather we’ll make our summit push tomorrow!
Wish us luck and send sunshine and low winds our way!
RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team
Sending good vibes and hoping for a successful summit. Stay safe.
Posted by: Lorraine Sewick on 6/17/2022 at 11:54 am
Michael!!! I heard of your summit and literally screamed! Love you so much and hear you guys are pacing back down the mountain. Love you so much, was on the phone with grandma just after we got the news of successful summit and grandma was so proud. We love you! Can’t wait to hear all about the experience. Prayers and safe travel vibes to you all. Congratulations team and love to you all!!!
Posted by: Desiree on 6/18/2022 at 8:33 pm
Wishing you all Cool Runnings on the way down!!
Posted by: James Person on 6/18/2022 at 11:06 am
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