Entries from Alaska
May 29, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday May 28, 2021 - 7:39pm PT
The winds and snow moved out for us today and we got to enjoy some sun and warmth in camp. We could still see winds moving quickly at times up above us on the west buttress, but it was nice to have pleasant conditions for a bit. We took the opportunity to build some truly monumental walls to protect against an expected wind event tomorrow, then refreshed and practiced our fixed line travel to prep for when the weather and conditions let us go higher.
Tomorrow is almost certainly a tent bound day, but the trend looks good for us going into next week. For now, we're happy to be acclimating and getting strong at 14,000', and to be within striking distance of our objective.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
May 29, 2021
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Thursday, May 28, 2021 - 7:43pm PT
Today was a slow day for us on the Kahiltna. We alternated between blue skies and whiteout, and the wind blew a steady 20-30mph all morning. We made hash browns, eggs, and quesadillas for brunch, traded card tricks, and talked about a few climbing related things.
The wind has now died down, and we’ve got a little bit of evening sun. Everyone is well rested and ready to get moving around tomorrow, so hopefully the weather cooperates. That’s it from us on the lower Kahiltna, another good day in the books!
RMI JM Gorum and Kahiltna Seminar Team.
May 29, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 9500'
Friday, May 28, 2021 - 5:09pm PT
We had another stormy night here at the base of ski hill. We woke to clear skies and decided to try and move some food and fuel towards Kahiltna Pass and the turn up to 11,200’ camp. 30 minutes into the day the wind picked up and the loose snow started spinning. With some warm gloves and a few layers we leaned into the very consistent and very cold 15 mph wind and took it an hour at a time. Eventually we got to 9500’ which met the goal for the day. The ravens will dig up shallow caches so we dug a deep hole and buried our food and fuel. We beat feet down to camp and are currently enjoying some sun on the tents while that very consistent 15 mph wind spins snow everywhere.
We’ll see what we get tomorrow and a move to 11,200’ is planned.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
Farmer Dave to Brother Tom….Remember You are Tough as Nails!!! Sing a little John Denver, that will always make things seem perfect!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2021 at 8:56 am
Good luck to the whole team
Posted by: Cathy H on 5/29/2021 at 7:48 pm
May 28, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,300'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 10:37pm PT
An uncertain forecast greeted us this morning as we packed up to move to Camp 3. We ate breakfast in a windy snow storm, but in a stroke of luck the clouds lifted as we climbed away from camp. Our good fortune was tragically short lived. By the time we got to Windy Corner, the wind was gusting so hard our sleds were blowing sideways. Sharp crampons, good footwork, and strong legs got us through our obstacle. After picking up a few items from our cache, we pushed through two feet of fresh snow all the way to Camp 3, at 14,300 feet.
We built camp in a mild blizzard and quickly hopped into our sleeping bags. Today was a tough day. Days like these are when you really earn your chance to be on the mountain. We’re proud of how our team performed and got the job done.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Go Heidi! Two feet of fresh. Brutal!
Posted by: Steve Christie on 5/28/2021 at 8:43 pm
Ooooh, I bet those sleeping bags felt good! Hope your weather improves for the next part of your climb!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/28/2021 at 7:30 pm
May 28, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 9,600'
Thursday, May 27. 2021 - 8:48pm PT
We flew onto the glacier late yesterday and did little else but get camp set up and ate some dinner. By midnight there was a blizzard that moved in until 9 am. After rigging our sleds and packs the wind had died down to a dull roar and the sky turned blue. We packed up and headed out around 12:30 pm with the sun to help balance the cold breeze. The route down heartbreak hill and onto the Kahiltna glacier was straightforward but windy. The wind would not abate for the next 5 hours as we leaned into it and got to camp. Heavy packs and sleds have us happy to be eating dinner and getting ready to sleep.
We’ll see what this storm brings tomorrow, but for now our fully bellies and tired legs could care less.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Mike King and Team
Hi Huw - I hope things are going well and you are enjoying this phase of the climb. Amazing to learn that birds will dig up shallow caches of food! Take care. Nigel.
Posted by: Nigel on 5/30/2021 at 6:20 am
Go well Rob and Co! Enjoy the climb and stay safe. Our very best wishes to you and all the 25th May team.
Posted by: Bill & Val Green on 5/29/2021 at 5:52 pm
May 28, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT
It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.
The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.
We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Hoping the storm passes and you have your days to move up and continue on safely. Keep the spirits up and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to the updates and we love you! - Katie & Sean
Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/29/2021 at 8:07 am
Thank you for the opportunity to learn about graupel!! What crazy weather you have had. I am throwing all my weight behind good weather thoughts for you and your expeditions all.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/28/2021 at 3:05 pm
May 27, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 2:13pm PT
Yesterday we did some training on rope travel techniques for up above 14k. The weather was clear and cold, with a chilly breeze.
Last night a true Denali storm came in with snow and wind, and we’ve been spending the morning digging out our tents, trying to stay warm, and hunkering down.
The storm is forecast to continue through Saturday, with 60 mph winds here at camp; needless to say, we’re not going up anytime soon. We’re also anticipating high avalanche hazard on the slopes above camp and the autobahn due to the new snow load and the wind transported slabs.
We’ll keep you posted on how this shakes out. For now, we are focusing our energy on defending our camp and staying safe.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Great job so far Nate! Good luck tackling the rest of the climb! Hope you’re having a great time.
Posted by: Steve Glassman on 6/2/2021 at 8:56 am
Hi Tom (Sweetness) Enjoy your down time and be safe honey!! Can’t wait to see you and hear all about your adventures ❤️❤️ Auntie Kel Kel
Posted by: Kelly Pozniak on 5/28/2021 at 1:38 pm
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Just found your trip and will be following! I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories. One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time. You’ll get there!
Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm
Looks great! Keep it up!
Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT
We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.
In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D
Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm
That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely. May she see fit to do that sooner than later. Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 9:56 pm PT
Winds had calmed by 5am, and I got my hopes up as I fired the stoves in the cold Alaskan dawn. But it turned out to be a brief lull instead of a pattern change. Persistently strong winds and snow returned and we were dealt another weather day.
We’re optimistic that the weather pattern is changing; we saw the sun this evening for the first time in four days. We’re all in good spirits, ready and rested for the move to 14k.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
Good luck to Luke and the whole team!
Posted by: Matthew Byars on 5/25/2021 at 9:19 am
The Bemis’s and Wilhelm’s wish you all well from the shores of Cayuga lake for chuck’s graduation! Hope you’re all not going too stir crazy and that you haven’t consumed all your snacks. Stay safe and thanks for the daily updates- much appreciated!
Posted by: Tracy on 5/23/2021 at 5:21 am
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Go, Cram, Go! Do it for the CZ. Wishing you good luck and safe travels.
Posted by: Z (Simsbury) on 5/30/2021 at 9:46 am
It seems that there are several teams @ 14, 000 camp 3. You started out I believe, as 2nd team. do you have to wait for team one to go to the peak first? Either way God speed.
Posted by: Carter Thoenes on 5/29/2021 at 12:24 pm
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