Entries from Denali

Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:59 AM PT Our Denali Expedition Team is assembled in Talkeetna and ready to climb! After the last hectic few days of travel and packing, we are loaded in the plane and ready to be on our way to the mountain. We are looking forward to the adventure and challenge we are facing. Wish us luck!!! RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan and Gloria Roe

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Josh,
Just heard from Keith. Fire has been contained and evac has been lifted.
We are all headed out for our helicopter tour! Hope everyone is doing well. Love and hugs!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/15/2018 at 12:48 pm

Hey Glo! So sorry about the blocking situation. I love and admire you and I wish your team safe adventures. What a great weather day to start out.

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/13/2018 at 11:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 9:56 PM PT Today was another windy and snowy day here at 14,000' Camp. After a late breakfast, despite the snow, the team worked together to make an igloo to improve the comfort of the bathroom experience given the current conditions. It’s little projects like these around camp that help down days go by. After a few hours of resting back in our tents the sun made an evening appearance that allowed us to stretch our legs around camp and clear out some of the snow again. The skiers on the mountain have been taking advantage of the evening clearings by enjoying the powder turns to be had just above camp. We’ve enjoyed standing out in the sun watching them ski back to camp. Unfortunately, the outlook for the forecast took a big swing this morning and instead of high pressure settling in for the weekend it now appears we are expecting a major snowstorm and continued high winds through Saturday to stall our summit bid. The team is staying optimistic however, given we may be at 14 camp for a few more days. Tomorrow’s another day and a forecast is only a forecast! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Matt Hill, hang in there! We are planning a full reception at the Blanford Rec Center when you get back. There may even be a famous rapper from L.A. there to sing with bubbles.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/13/2018 at 1:20 pm

Really glad to hear of your resourcefulness ! I’m sure your igloo is much bigger than the on David made with his siblings in the front yard long ago..
Be warm and happy !
Stay strong.
Love,
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/13/2018 at 9:12 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 5:32 PM PT We'd already sent in the dispatch yesterday and then skies cleared up and we enjoyed a sunny evening. Today however, we woke to grey skies up above and clouds pouring over Kahiltna Pass. The teams in camp all got a slow roll to see who would break trail up Motorcycle Hill. This led to a bottleneck and a slow pace. After an hour the clouds had descended and snow was blowing. Our goal today was a cache around Windy Corner, but due to the volume of climbers, new snow and low visibility we opted for a 12,500' cache. We are back at Camp at 11,000' hoping to get a chance to move up to 14,000' Camp in the next few days. RMI Guide Mike King

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT Not much to report from 11,000' Camp. Today we woke to snow, after breakfast we were shoveling snow and about every two hours since there has been more snow to shovel. The one caveat is that the wind is light. The Team has been working on "out chilling the storm" as a long time RMI guide once put it. We are hopeful that the weather begins clearing tomorrow so we can put a cache in striking distance of 14 Camp. Everyone is healthy and warm. RMI Guide Mike King

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Alex,
After hunting around the RMI website we are 90% sure this is your expedition. Stay warm and tend to the small details: feet, hydration, etc… Best to the whole team- and Malin says you did this to yourself :)

Posted by: Matt & Malin on 6/12/2018 at 9:50 am

Scott, I’ve got my eye on you - and the summit! Keep your leg warm!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Connie Selgrath on 6/12/2018 at 8:29 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 3:42 PM PT We made it through a very snowy and windy night at 14,000' Camp and also made it through the coldest night we have had near -10F. The skies were clear and cold when we crawled out of the tent to nearly two feet of fresh snow. The team cleared the snow from the tents and shoveled the snow out of our snow block fortress. Then we had another amazing breakfast that started with coffee then hash browns, then blueberry pancakes, a Tyler Jones special. We then proceeded to have another round of hash browns and pancakes. This was obviously paired with a healthy serving of crispy bacon. The new snow along with the wind has most the camp relaxed and waiting till the winds up high on the mountain subside and give the new snow time to settle. The forecast is looking up later this week. We will be patient and out chill the wind and snow, then when the opportunity presents, we will make our move to High Camp. Till then we have a fierce game of Yahtzee in the cool tent and laps around camp to keep us busy. Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

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Dave and Team Jones, the ice fortress looks pretty cool. Hopefully you guys get to move to new digs on higher ground soon (winter is coming after all).

Sending lots of love,
Your big sister and the family.

Posted by: Beth on 6/12/2018 at 11:31 pm

Nothing better than a good game of Yahtzee to pass the time! Can’t wait to see the pictures from the summit! Continued prayers for good weather and a safe climb! Big hugs to Nick from his Mom. XO

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/12/2018 at 7:45 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rapping at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 9:04 PM PT To Fresh Prince of Bel-Air: Here is the story all about how We’re stuck at 14 with so much pow Just wait a little minute and sit right there And we’ll tell you all about these snow walls up in here. These walls are high, they are not low Like the saying goes, you reap what you sow. The storm’s a brewin, it does not matter It just means we make these walls fatter. Everyone’s spirits are high Despite this Denali blizzard Though we admit We’d rather sip on some sizzer...d Don’t you worry though Because when this passes We’ll be cruising up the pass the masses to the top I tell you loud and clear is our intent so don’t you fear. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Haha, nice rapping to make Will Smith jealous. It’s remarkable looking at you guys from the distance. I was thinking to myself:”This could be heaven or this could be hell. Welcome to the Hotel Denali. Such a lovely place.” Sweet dream, Lei, hanging there. Hao

Posted by: Hao on 6/11/2018 at 7:28 pm

To slim Jim and Paul what a dream your are experiencing let it soak in brother looking forward to seeing you both at the top.Keeping you all in my prayers Love Rob

Posted by: Bob on 6/11/2018 at 6:09 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Return to 11K Camp

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 10, 2018 - 3:08 pm PT Clouds and snow moved in last night just prior to dinner. We had the chance to see our 2 RMI Teams who had been on the summit Friday and get some route info. The snow continued through out the night with minimal accumulation. When we woke, there were faint views of the surrounding peaks and ridges. After breakfast we roped up and walked down to our cache at 9700' and dug up our food and supplies. There has been a low pressure system moving in from the North and being near the demarcation line was quite stunning. As we turned the corner onto the Kahiltna Glacier, we could see clouds rolling over Kahiltna Pass and Kahiltna Dome while the view South was blue skies and calm weather. Soon we were engulfed in the clouds and light snow for the walk back to 11,000' Camp. Now we are back in our tents listening to snow fall and enjoying the warmth of the sun trying to cook through the clouds. The Team is doing well, we are hopeful that the winds stay calm so we can carry around Windy Corner or even into Fourteen Camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike King

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Great job everyone and hi dad (David McCampbell)! Keep up the great work. Loving these updates!
-Patti

Posted by: Patti Van Lange on 6/10/2018 at 9:56 pm

Hi JT-

My dad and I had a JT Type 2 day of fun just for you.. Sixty-two miles in the pouring rain. We hope you are enjoying your time up there! The pictures are beautiful! Sending big hugs from the Emmer family!

Maddy

Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/10/2018 at 8:38 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Descend

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 11:13 PM PT After a late night making dinner and filling water bottles, we were content to sleep in a bit until the sun hit the tents and made things a bit warmer. With packs full, we rallied back along the West Buttress, beating the oncoming traffic to the fixed lines. We rendezvoused with Tyler Jones's team at 14,000', where they were so kind as to hook us up with water and high fives, then we kept the train rolling down to 11, where Mike King's team let us use their kitchen tent and had already dug up our cache for us. We're going to sleep a few hours here, then wake up in the (not) dark (it's Alaska in the summer time) to walk the last piece to base camp, aiming to be there for first flights in the morning. Keeping our fingers crossed for flyable weather and a cold IPA before noon! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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So looking forward to seeing you! And hearing all the stories! Save journey down and off to Talkeetna! I’m in dunker training all Monday, so I’ll see you in in evening! Love you!

Posted by: Kathy on 6/10/2018 at 11:37 am

So happy to hear your news of the day! Looking forward to hearing you are down safely!

Posted by: Ken and Beckie Ruggles on 6/10/2018 at 9:16 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Visit the Edge of the World

June 10, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 8:43 PM PT A message written by the team: "Today we took a rest on the edge. At the aptly named Edge of the World outside of 14 camp we stopped for some great photos. Photos so grand, you’ll never see them. The snow fell gently in the afternoon air. We pondered our favorite planets. Security felt a little lax around camp and with murmurs of winter coming we built some walls around camp. Afterwards, during dinner, we concluded that the sun is the collective favorite planet. Have to be honest, the mountain food is just food. But the guides cooking skills are super awesome. Looking forward to capping off the night with some gentle snoring to keep the local wildlife at bay. Tomorrow should probably be a super epic day." RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

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Jim & Paul and all you Ice Chompers,

Just want you to know that the 2018 Stanley Cup is off bounds! it’s in the hands of first time
winners - The Washington -Caps!! But don’t despair—the Denali Cup for 2018 - is still available!!
So chomp on you mountain rangers! Sending love, prayers, and long distance hugs -
Your momma

Posted by: Myra Welsh on 6/10/2018 at 7:44 pm

Matt Hill, the Sunnyvale gang is behind you all way. Bubbles even named one of his new kitties “Denali”.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/10/2018 at 3:20 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 5:36 PM PT Day 4 had us up early and breaking down camp. The surrounding area at 2:30 AM with no wind seems like it's perpetually 9:00 PM. We hauled our camp and personal gear to 11,000' Camp over 6.5 hours and the team did great. Some people have sore feet and some have sore hips, those real pressure points a constant reminder of what it's like to do hard work in the mountains. Our new camp is nestled in a basin that is surrounded by large glacial features and the backdrop is Motorcycle Hill and the Father and Sons Wall. Tomorrow we will go back to 9,700' to retrieve our cached food and fuel and then rest the remainder of the day. Weather continues to be great and the forecast inaccurate so when they forecast a clear day we'll probably be battening down the hatches. Until then I am hoping for a forecast of snow that never a arrives and winds that don't materialize. So much in life we can't control, this team is doing a great job of focusing on the things they can control. That's all from 11,000' on Denali. RMI Guide Mike King

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Entries from Denali

Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rapping at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Return to 11K Camp

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Descend

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Visit the Edge of the World

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

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