Entries from Denali

Denali Expedition: King & Team Weather the Storm

June 16, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 16, 2018 - 2:22 PM PT We had a foot of snow with enough wind to drift upwards of 3 feet in most places. We spent the morning relocating our posh due to being buried and partially collapsed. The team is putting the finishing touches on a toilet cave so they can see a man about a horse without getting a spin drift bidet in the process. Other then maintaining camp we'll eat, nap, shovel and repeat until the storm passes. Moral is still good and we are hopeful that a clearing will arrive early next week. The wind loaded slopes will pose an avalanche hazard so we'll need a few days minimum to settle the slopes leading to the fixed lines. That's all from 14 Camp. RMI Guide Mike King

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi dad! Happy fathers day!! I hope your day is amazing. we miss you. Please bring me back a moose! Love you!

Posted by: Adleigh Faulkenburg on 6/17/2018 at 2:02 pm

Hi dad!!! Happy father’s day! Please don’t get eaten by a bear.

Posted by: Teagan Faulkenburg on 6/17/2018 at 1:58 pm

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move Up to 9600’

June 16, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 9600'

When the weather reports we receive include the words gentle breeze, fresh winds, and tail end of a typhoon, you know you are climbing in Alaska! We had a great trip from our camp this morning with all of our team members handling these heavy loads like champions! Since we always hope for the best, but prepare for the worst, we fortified our new camp with large snow walls to block some of the winds that may or may not be headed our way. We were so proud of our walls that Rusty even put his civil engineering stamp on them. The weather was very good before a marine type cloud layer brought some new snow and the fresh wind we were told about. It already seems to be clearing up a bit. Meanwhile, we are hunkered down eating Tasty Bites and waiting to see if hurricane Horiskey hits us. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

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“Mother Nature, please cancel my my subscription”. Thats all I got for today folks! Wishing you better weather. Keep up the GREAT TEAMWORK!

Posted by: Ellen M on 6/17/2018 at 9:24 am

Happy Father’s Day dad (David McCampbell) proud to be your daughter! Be safe talk to ya when you get back down:)

Love you,
Patti

Posted by: Patti Van Lange on 6/17/2018 at 8:42 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Write Poem at 14,000’

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:34 PM PT A poem written by the team: Today we had a foot race, We all died trying to keep pace, Another weather day spent playing spades Up at 14 foiled by these Pineapple Express charades The snow is getting deep and the wind getting strong We’re standing in the posh but not for very long. My feet are so cold from standing on the ice, Don’t fret for we’ll be crushing more rice. These foreseeable high winds are full, While our gastrointestinals are quite dull. Even still Spirits were high until news of a pig came before the nigh. RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

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Great poem! Unfortunately, it sounds like you have more than enough time to perfect your prose…
A little snow shoveling doesn’t sound bad about now as it’s a typical hot (98 degrees) and muggy day in good ole’ STL! Loving all the pictures, but a few up close of all those faces we miss, would be even better! :)). Here’s to clearing weather and a successful trip to the Summit! XO Coeli (Nick’s Mom)

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/16/2018 at 7:18 pm

Also, good luck to everyone else on the team! I hope you all are able to summit without complications and even if there are some, I hope you can overcome them. Fighting!

Good luck,
Sarah

Posted by: Sarah Wu on 6/15/2018 at 9:54 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Stack Walls at 14,000’ Camp

June 15, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 15, 2018 - 5:50 PM PT Today was a prime lesson in the Three Pigs and the Big Bad Wolf. We got some comments and stares yesterday while building 7 foot walls around our Camp with such blue skies and warm temps. This morning we got even more remarks from people as we continued to build. By 4 pm the winds had picked up to 30+ mph gusts and the Pigs who had built their homes from straw were in full scramble mode while our Pigs rested in their tents surrounded by snow bricks. We practiced some skills for climbing the fixed lines, they gets us higher on the West Buttress and will hang out while Denali does what Denali wants to. Currently it's demanding that we, "respect it's authority". RMI Guide Mike King

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Hey Scott! Totally echo what Julie said (except for the “babe” part). Good luck with the weather—pretty much rounds out everything you can possibly come across on the mountain, doesn’t it? Hang in there bud. Hope you brought a good book.

~Chris

Hi Scott. Perseverance - the secret of all triumphs. Kick some booty. Wishing you safe steps and glorious sunrises. - Judy

Posted by: Chris Beaudette on 6/16/2018 at 1:52 pm

Scott-looks like you and team my be stuck at 14,000 for a while due to weather! Not as cold as last time! Maybe guys can get caught up with all the amazing comments people have been sending! You’ve got this babe! Keep warm, hang tight, and then just HOP up to the summit in time! Love you!
Julie

Posted by: Julie Faulkenburg on 6/16/2018 at 9:28 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Move to 7,800’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 8:01 PM PT We had a super early start this morning. We were very proud of Super Crew 6 this morning for getting up and packing up with style so we could get on the trail quickly. I gave them a C+ to their face but it was really an A+ effort. I didn't want them getting too cocky right off the bat! We had a great walk up the Kahiltna Glacier through light snow and medium visibility. As we approached camp, the sky started to clear and bit and we have been able to see Denali on and off since then. We are dug in safely and 7,800' and will make an on the fly decision whether to move up to our next camp based on what the weather looks like when we get up at 2 a.m. Keep your fingers crossed for us! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Super Crew

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Great job Super Team! Team “currently only 1/3 ginger” has the fort back home. So Rusty doesn’t feel left out, today we enjoyed a pan flute rendition of “Nothing Else Matters”

Posted by: Marsha on 6/15/2018 at 5:07 pm

Following this adventure with wonder! Go David!

Posted by: Jennifer Baker on 6/15/2018 at 2:33 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 7:42 PM PT After yesterday's grueling day the team slept in until the sun hit our tents, 9ish. We had a slow start with salmon and cream cheese bagels and coffee. The goal for today was to build walls around our tents and get our kitchen/dining tent dug out and reinforced. The walls are built by digging through the loose snow into the firm layers below. Then we take snow saws and begin to quarry large blocks to be the foundational row. Each successive layer gets smaller so the wall isn't top heavy. The walls help keep wind from destroying our tents. The team rallied through their wall building then helped the guides finish reinforcing the kitchen tent or Posh as we call it. The Posh is a five sided tent without a floor. We dig a hole in the snow and have benches for people to sit and cooking counters for the guides. Out of the wind and sun we enjoy our meals, today's dinner is hand rolled chicken burritos. With the menacing forecast on the horizon we will put the finishing touches on camp and hunker down for the remnants of a tropical cyclone that is headed for Alaska. People are happy for the sunshine and tired from the 'light exercise' of camp craft. This helps us acclimate in preparation for heading to 17,000' Camp, High Camp, for our cache day and ultimately our summit day when the weather and mountain tell us it's time to go up. Until then we will be at 14,000' continuing to get comfortable being uncomfortable and focusing on the tasks that our in our control and leaving the conditions that our out of our control to Denali. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:

YOU ARE ALL SO AMAZING!!!

Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm

You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!

Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT With a forecast that hasn't been stellar, the guides woke at 2:30 AM only to see strong winds above. We continued to check for high winds until 6 am, needing to make a decision on whether to move camp or burn another weather day, we opted to pack up. Hoping for the sun to calm the wind we started out at 9 am through boot high snow, calf high snow, knee high snow and you guessed it thigh high snow. We made good time without any congestion on the route, but it was not an easy day. Once we picked up our cache at 12,500' we slogged up towards Windy Corner. Packs were heavy, sleds didn't help and the loose drifted in snow made for a tired team. We got chased around Windy Corner by a storm then promptly walked into a basin where the wind had stopped and we were quickly to hot. Today's lesson was, "learn to be comfortable, being uncomfortable". Freeze or fry is all you can expect up here, ideal doesn't exist. We will take a well deserved rest day tomorrow and maybe for the next week if the projected Pineapple Express weather front dumps 9 feet of snow. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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Diana King here, Mike’s Mom. We to enjoy keeping up wit the Team from Atlanta. Wish he could get home more often.

Posted by: Diana King on 6/15/2018 at 2:09 pm

Robb-o!!
Sending some positive weather vibes your way!! Hope you, Cole and the rest of the team are having an awesome adventure!!
XOXOXO

Sharoni

Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT Today we had another great breakfast. Then the crew geared up for a climb up towards the fixed ropes. We have had more than our share of good rest in the past few days. We needed to move some blood and keep our fitness we have gained on this trip. From the forecast we are seeing it looks like we could have a few more days of poor weather. We hope to take another climb for fitness tomorrow and be ready for a break in the weather. Fingers crossed! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,200'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT The mountain weather was kind to us today. After a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna, we made our way to the airstrip where K2 Aviation told us we were good to fly. We hopped into our climbing clothes, did our last minute list checks, and got into the planes. After a phenomenal 45 minute flight over the tundra and into the Alaska Range, we landed on the snow runway that is Kahiltna Base Camp. We spent the day taking in the sights, practicing crevasse rescue skills, and preparing for our long, heavy slog to our next camp at 7,800'. Our plan is to wake up super early and be traveling across the Kahiltna Glacier while all of the snow bridges are very frozen. We also like to travel at night to avoid baking in the heat of the day as all of the white, snowy surfaces reflect sun back up at us. We either freeze or fry in the mountains and the 24 hours of daylight allow us to travel safely whenever we choose based on the temperature. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

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Looks like beautiful weather! Wishing you all a safe and amazing climb, especially you Craig Clark!

Posted by: Carol clark on 6/14/2018 at 8:29 am

Hello Mike, I’m looking forward to following this team up to the summit and back. It was a pleasure climbing with Rusty, Josh and David on Mt Rainier in 2015. I know that they are in good hands on this trip.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/14/2018 at 5:15 am

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Entries from Denali

Denali Expedition: King & Team Weather the Storm

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move Up to 9600’

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Write Poem at 14,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Stack Walls at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Move to 7,800’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

On The Map

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