Entries from Denali
June 2, 2019
Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, June 1, 2019 - 11:00 PM PT
And the train keeps on rolling! We were up and attem early again this morning, rolling out of bed at 530 am and on the trail by 730 am with all of the remainder of our food and gear on our backs. We spent about 6 hours breaking trail from 7800’ camp all the way to
11,000’ Camp, without a single other climbing team in sight. The snow and clouds kept us cool, and allowed us to make efficient work of the climb. We made it to “11” camp just in time to see our fellow RMI teams led by Mike Walter and Steve Gately before we got down to building camp, which should be our home for the next few nights. Tomorrow, we’ll ‘back-carry’ and finally get the rest of gear up here at 11,000 and be all set to start setting our sites on some of the more fun climbing of the trip. Until then, keep it real out there in the real world. We’ll keep you updated on our progress.
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Trail Break
On The Map
June 1, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Not much going on at
14,000' Camp today. We ate a late breakfast, and have been watching it snow all day. It’s pretty easy to take a rest day when the weather doesn’t permit much else. Folks have been alternating between reading, napping, and guessing what’s going on in the real world. At this point, with our cache up high, we’ve done all that we can do to prepare to summit this mountain. Now we just rest, recuperate, and wait for good weather. If the forecast holds, we might not have to wait very long, but we will see.
We’ll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
May 31, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 31, 2019 7:58 PM PT
Today we woke to relatively warm temperatures and light snow. As we looked up to the ridge of the
West Buttress there didn’t appear to be any winds, although a bit of snow continued to fall. After a speedy breakfast we decided to make moves and head on up the mountain to cache gear somewhere above the fixed lines. Throughout the first few hours of the day we progressed apprehensively, wary of some menacing looking clouds that were lingering higher up on the mountain, but as we cruised up the fixed lines we were treated with warm temperatures and light winds. This enabled us to progress to 16,600 feet to dig a cache to store some gear to support ourselves for our summit bid. After a quick break we turned around and headed back down to 14 Camp where we are now relaxing and waiting to eat some dinner! Spirits are high and we are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt
May 31, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT
With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a
14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
May 31, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 31, 2019 2:49 PM PT
Nothing is easy about climbing
Denali. Just ask any member of our team who worked hard for more than two weeks before standing on top of the highest point in North America 17 days after landing at Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. But that doesn't even tell the whole story. Our team eagerly awaited the start of this expedition and spent three antsy days in Talkeetna waiting for good enough weather to fly into Basecamp as a storm sat over the Alaska Range. Now, after summitting, we have descended to the 14k camp and are comfortably nestled in to our old camp. We are socked in the clouds and it is snowing. This morning we spoke via radio with Robby Young, who is leading the 4th RMI Denali expedition. He reported heavy and wet snow on the Kahiltna Glacier between 7800' and 9600'. The weather forecast is calling for heavy snow to continue through tomorrow, hopefully tapering on Sunday. No planes are flying and we are at the mercy of the weather once again. This time we are eagerly awaiting hot showers, cold beer, clean clothes, and a chance to talk with loved ones. Oh, and also flush toilets. Not necessarily in that order.
Mountain weather is fickle and right now we are at her mercy. We'll take the good weather on summit day in exchange for playing the waiting game on both the front and tail ends of our expedition. And for now we're practicing our Zen patience in the comfort of our 14k camp.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
May 31, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday, May 31, 2019 12:14 AM PT
Today we went back downhill to gather all of our cached food and gear. We got it all without any noteworthy event. With the rest of the day, we sat around, ate our new snacks, and practiced some techniques for the fixed lines. We’re hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines tomorrow if weather allows. The forecast is calling for some snow, but light winds. As long as winds stay calm we can probably get it done. We’ll see what we get and check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
May 31, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT
The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening.
Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home.
Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone!
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
May 31, 2019
Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Thursday, May 30, 2019 9:33 PM PT
Hello Loyal RMI Blog Followers,
Greetings from 7800’ Camp, aka Camp 1, here on the Kahiltna Glacier. We’ve made the move! After a 3am wake up, our team got up and attem and we were making the first steps of our expedition by 5am. It was an absolute perfect morning for the move up the Kahiltna Glacier. The route was in perfect condition after a solid overnight refreeze, and the temps were ideal for hauling 100 lbs of food and gear across the Alaska wilderness. We made it to camp 1 in great style, pulling in this morning around 10:45. An early arrival allowed us ample time to build camp, settle in for some afternoon naps and enjoy an early dinner of tortellini and the Denali delicacy, Grandma’s Cookies. We’re tucked in the bags now, and hoping for a carry to 10,000’ tomorrow. It appears some snow is on the way for the weekend and into next week, so any chance to make some progress we will gladly take. We’ll keep you in the loop!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch and Team Parmesan Cheese
May 30, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 8:03 PM PT
Today we had a more relaxing morning than the past few alpine starts. High camp was cold and breezy, and we enjoyed breakfast in the comfort of our sleeping bags. Blowing snow was evident on the upper mountain, reminding us how fortuitous we were to have a good weather window in which to summit.
We let the air warm up a bit and the winds abate and then we packed up camp and descended the
West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall. We're now down in the relative warmth and comfort of the 14,200' camp. The air feels a lot thicker here now than when we left it a few days ago.
The plan is to get a good night's sleep and continue our descent tomorrow. The weather forecast is calling for a front to move in tonight bringing snow into Sunday. So we'll play it by ear with where/ when we descend, knowing that planes may not be able to fly into the Kahiltna airstrip until Sunday. We're all content and getting good rest for our long descent down the Kahiltna.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 30, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:56 AM PT
The team is all safely back at
High Camp now. It was a long day for everyone and it's past midnight now and were finally killing the stoves for the evening. I'll try and put together a better picture of summit day tomorrow for everyone. Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
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Brave team! Go ahead and enjoy this fantastic experience. Something to keep in mind forever. Kisses from Brazil family. Beijos!
Posted by: Cristina Perez on 6/3/2019 at 8:05 am
Look forward to the daily updates.
Sound like so far so good .
Pray that it continues smoothly
Team Young you are all in our prayers
Posted by: Tina’s and John zabinski on 6/3/2019 at 5:13 am
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