Entries from Denali
Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 3:42 PM PT
We had our first active rest day today. The weather forecast called for a calm night with increasing clouds and possible precipitation through the day. The air was still when I woke at 5 am to check the weather. After a salmon and cream cheese bagel breakfast we set off down hill with our sleds strapped to our backpacks. The goal was to carry all of our cache from 9300’ to 11,200’. The Team did exceptionally well and we managed to beat the heat of the morning for all but the last hour. The afternoon clouds are coming into camp and creating a greenhouse effect where the UV comes through the clouds and reflects off the snow then gets bounced back by the clouds making for a hot day in camp. People have their sleeping bags clipped on the outside of the tent for a more ideal napping environment. So long as the weather continues this pattern we will wake early and carry food and fuel around Windy Corner in preparation for our camp move to 14,200’ in
Genet Basin. Even though we have been moving lots of weight up the glacier for four days, the Team is happy and enjoying the beautiful scenery here on Denali. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
June 8, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet.
We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos.
RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team
June 8, 2019
Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday, June 7, 2019 10:18 PM PT
Greetings all!
A beautiful sunny day, finally! We woke to sun and were only interrupted by some quick snow showers during the dinner hour. We were able to fully complete our move to 14k Camp this morning by heading back down and retrieving our cache at Windy Corner at 13.200’. We were up and at em early and were back at Camp a little after noon, in time to nap and rest, and finish up our day with some fixed line practice.
Tomorrow, we’ll rest! It’s an important rest day as we continue our acclimatization process in preparation for our future travels to upper reaches of this grandiose mountain. We’ve got big plans for big meals, big naps, and possibly a trip to take in the views at the ‘Edge of the World’. We’ll report back and tell you all about it tomorrow! Til then, good night!
Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Pebble Beach
Friday, June 7, 2019 - 7:17 PM PT
We woke up to a calm and clear morning. The air was significantly warmer at the 4:30 am wake up call. A perfect day to get camp packed up and moved to 11,200’. The Team has seen all but the last three hours during our cache day. Leaving the snowshoes on our sleds we climbed up the Kahiltna glacier in crampons and made excellent time. Our goal was to beat any afternoon thunderstorms that had been rolling over
Kahiltna Pass the last few afternoons. We pulled into camp shortly after 1 pm feeling the altitude and heavy pack/sled combo. I can hear some snoring from some as they nap in the heat of their tents. Others are reading and organizing their gear. Everyone in this group is doing well with the heavy loads and rapid swings in weather. Tomorrow we will get an early start so we can retrieve our cache at 9,300’ and then the remainder of the day will be our first “active rest” day. Light clouds are moving into camp but we still have great views of Kahiltna Dome and the West Buttress of Denali, the namesake of our climbing route.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
June 7, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT
We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
June 7, 2019
Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, June 6, 2019 10:06 PM PT
Greetings from 14,000’!
For the first time all trip, the weather was better than forecasted! We took full advantage early this morning, walking into the clouds for only a brief time before we were basking in the sun above 12,000’. It was a smooth move day up here to 14 Camp. We arrived early afternoon with plenty of time to completely set up camp, take naps, and then indulge in a veggie curry dinner. It was great to see our RMI friends JM and company as well as a plethora of other guides from other walks of life. It’s truly a city of friends up here at 14 Camp and our team is ecstatic to be here, especially given the squirrelly weather we’ve had over the last week. We’re all in the sleeping bags now, as it gets cold quickly up here; but we’re amped and ready to go back and pick up our windy corner cache tomorrow morning and be reunited with all of delicious lunch food and larger huge variety of meals. We’ll keep you posted on our progress.
Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘Clean Plate Club’
Thursday, June 6, 2019 - 5:04 PM PT
There was a light breeze that rattled the tents last night. The first few nights away from a comfortable bed can be an adjustment. The Team woke to a cold and mostly clear morning. We pumped the brakes a bit to let the air warm up and see what the clouds were doing North of us in the interior. After breakfast the clouds lifted and we launched to take advantage of the clear skies before forecasted thunderstorms and snow arrived. Our route to the cache at 9,300’ takes us up Ski Hill (it’s got the grade of a ski hill) and along the flanks of
Kahiltna Dome. The pack loads are heavy but the Team handled it with mostly smiles while taking the time to enjoy the scenic down glacier vistas. We have to cache our food and fuel in the snow so ravens do not dig it up, this typically requires a 1 meter deep hole. We are back in a white out at 7800’ Camp hanging in tents enjoying the solar and having some lunch. Tomorrow we hope to get clear skies and a cold/early start to beat the weather into 11,200’ Camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone is healthy and happy.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 10:39 PM PT
Wow! We got a little bit of every weather pattern today on our move to
Camp 1 located at 7,800’. It was overcast, hot, cold, windy, calm, thunder and we got two different rounds of snow. Back to the beginning of the day, our flight into the Alaska Range was spectacular. After a quick breakfast, K2 Aviation told us to suit up and put boots on, we were going flying. The Team did well with the heavy packs and sleds. We got into camp after seven hours and while the tents are bombproof, the rest is like that pig who made his house out of straw. Tomorrow we hope to carry half our camp up to 10,000’ but we might get weathered in. Regardless we’ll check in and look forward to another day on Denali.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
June 6, 2019
Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 9:30 PM PT
We had it all today. Sunshine, snow, raging snow, more sun, and even some thunderstorms...aka thunder snow. Regardless, our team snuck in our carry to Windy Corner at 13,000’. Progress! It was really nice to make some progress after a couple days of rest here at
11,000' Camp. The forecast is calling for more of the same for remainder of the week, so we’ll do what we’ve been doing everyday, we’ll wake up and stick our heads out of the tent early, and see if the mountain will allow us to make our move to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Mountain Zen
On The Map
June 5, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 4:43 PM PT
Well, if it’s not one thing it’s another. The wind finally died down for us, and we had a beautiful start to our summit attempt. As we neared Denali pass and the top of the
Autobahn, thunder started rumbling in the distance. In a matter of minutes we were underneath the leading edge of a 30,000 foot anvil. We tucked tail and ran back to camp, threading through climbers intent on continuing uphill. We can deal with cold, snow, and wind, but the only cure I know for lightning is distance. All in all it was a good day, considering we are all still healthy and happy. We’re going to regroup this afternoon, consider the forecast, and come up with a plan for the next few days.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
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It sounds like an amazing experience. Please tell Allan Oliver and all the team that we’re following this. Huge adventure and bagels, cream cheese and salmon for breakfast! You all deserve a great climb and descent. We’re cheering for you.
Posted by: Stephanie and John Smith on 6/10/2019 at 3:15 pm
Great job everyone!! Keep kicking ass!! Hope you all are enjoying to the fullest
Posted by: Meagan Jones on 6/9/2019 at 12:14 pm
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