Entries from Denali
May 24, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT
Though it's almost June, the temps this morning hit us like the coldest winter chill. When we first crawled out of the tents it looked like today would be the day. It was cold, but the winds were light in camp. Above, huge plumes of snow launched off of the upper elevation ridgelines, a clear visual of how hard the winds were blowing aloft, but with them coming out of the north, we hoped the mountain would provide shelter and that the warmth that came with the sun would tame the winds. Instead, the opposite happened. As we ate breakfast the winds steadily increased in camp to a small squall, injecting snow through any opening in tents or clothes. Word from higher up said 14,000' Camp was no better. So we got the message and settled in. They've calmed considerably since this afternoon and the forecast calls for them to continue to diminish, so we know we'll get our shot to move up. The group is doing really well with the weather hang. Rounds of gin rummy, kindles, and movies are keeping everyone occupied, as well as a quick wall building session to protect our bathroom tent. Someone mentioned working on content for the Denali calendar as well. Fingers and toes are crossed we get to go climbing tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team, brought to you by Alice in Chains
(Previous blogs brought to you by Outkast and The Scorpions)
May 24, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:31 pm PT
Cold temps and wind greeted us as we began our move to 11,000' Camp, our Camp 2 this morning. The climb warmed up as the sun hit us and we enjoyed stellar views. The day remained windy with blowing snow but our team powered through it. Arriving at 11,000' Camp, we settled in and built our camp in fine alpine style. We were pleasantly surprised to run into the rest of our RMI teams here at 11,200'. Hopefully the reunion will be short as those teams progress up the mountain while good weather remains over the range.
May 24, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 6:01 pm PT
The weather has not gotten the message yet that we’re trying to move up to the 14,00' Camp. Winds calmed yesterday afternoon, but picked up again early this morning. We were poised to break camp when they ramped up to the strongest we’ve seen this trip, strong enough to break guy lines on our cook tent. Texting via satellite with friends at 14k, we knew conditions were even harsher up there.
Instead of moving up today we built some snow walls to protect our camp here at 11k. The weather is improving this evening, and again we’re hopeful that we can push camp up higher tomorrow.
We’ll let you know...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Might be fun to build an igloo in your spare time. Hope you get moving soon.
Posted by: Anne Cook on 5/25/2021 at 12:26 pm
As it turns out, there is actually a patron saint of good weather, Saint Medardus! I never heard of him before. He’ll be hearing from me until you’re home!
Posted by: Althea on 5/25/2021 at 10:39 am
May 23, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
The team woke up to a foot of fresh snow this morning, which led to our activity of the morning. Shoveling. Once that was out of the way, the team transitioned to game time. A variety of games and a few lucky beginners carried us through the afternoon. Some cheesecake for dessert has the team powered up hoping for better weather tomorrow. We're seeing the winds of change and feel positive about the next couple days!
RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team
Hi Marc
I Hope you’re having a good day! And that conditions r improving. We are so proud of you! Good luck today to u & ur whole team!
Nicole
Posted by: Nicole gabai on 5/25/2021 at 11:37 am
marc - wishing you good weather to complete your mission. the pix are amazing. best wishes to everyone! olga
Posted by: Olga on 5/24/2021 at 10:48 am
May 23, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, May 22, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT
We woke up this morning to a foot of fluffy, light snow. After digging out our tents and eating breakfast we saw the snow subsiding. Just as we got our hopes up for moving camp the winds started to pick up. It quickly became apparent this was not our day. Reading materials are running low, but spirits are high!
To Ben and fellow climbers: We wish you fair weather going forward! Pat promises Ben a little incentive- he’s making Manhattans when he returns!
God bless! Pat & Althea
Posted by: Althea Daley on 5/24/2021 at 6:22 am
May 23, 2021
Posted by: Andy Bond, JT Schmitt, Jackson Breen, Taylor Bickford, Matt McEttrick, Cal Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 12,600'
The Four Day Climb May 20- 23, 2021 was turned around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to low visibility, blowing snow and cold temperatures. The teams, led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Taylor Bickford, returned to safely to Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradise later this morning.
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Just found your trip and will be following! I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories. One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time. You’ll get there!
Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm
Looks great! Keep it up!
Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT
We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.
In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D
Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm
That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely. May she see fit to do that sooner than later. Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 9:56 pm PT
Winds had calmed by 5am, and I got my hopes up as I fired the stoves in the cold Alaskan dawn. But it turned out to be a brief lull instead of a pattern change. Persistently strong winds and snow returned and we were dealt another weather day.
We’re optimistic that the weather pattern is changing; we saw the sun this evening for the first time in four days. We’re all in good spirits, ready and rested for the move to 14k.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
Good luck to Luke and the whole team!
Posted by: Matthew Byars on 5/25/2021 at 9:19 am
The Bemis’s and Wilhelm’s wish you all well from the shores of Cayuga lake for chuck’s graduation! Hope you’re all not going too stir crazy and that you haven’t consumed all your snacks. Stay safe and thanks for the daily updates- much appreciated!
Posted by: Tracy on 5/23/2021 at 5:21 am
May 21, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT
Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank! Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!
Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am
Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!
Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm
-640x480.jpg)
Someone said there is no WiFi in the mountains, but you will make your own connections! Enjoy it all!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/24/2021 at 7:09 pm
View All Comments