Entries from Denali
June 4, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, June 4, 2021 - 7:22 pm PT
It’s different living at 14,200’. The air is colder, you get winded easier and stoves don’t burn as efficient. We slept in today and waited for the sun to hit our tents before heading down to get our cache at 13,500’. The group did well and we were back in camp for an active rest day. The guides finished the kitchen/dining tent and the climbers enjoyed the views of Mt. Foraker and Mt Hunter. Our 3rd RMI team descended from 17K Camp after a successful summit. Warm tents and good conversations passed the afternoon quickly and we are getting ready for dinner. To better acclimate we’ll take a rest day tomorrow and see what the weather brings.
June 4, 2021
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Friday, June 4, 2021 - 3:09 pm PT
After our dry run yesterday, we got to do the real thing today. We landed on to the Kahiltna at precisely 10 am, and boy was it already hot! We were hoping to hit the ground running, but talking to teams coming off the lower Kahiltna and looking at the temps we decided to take the day to review skills, dig a cache and organize.
Due to the hot temps we are switching to a night schedule so we will sleep through the heat of the day today and depart when things firm up! Morale is high and we are super excited to be on the mountain!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team
Kyle & Team: We’re thinking of you and wish you the best. You’ve got this! -Jonas and everyone in Anchorage.
Posted by: Jonas Walker on 6/6/2021 at 9:45 am
Happy to hear about you progress. Sounds toasty. Use that sunscreen,
Posted by: richard loftus aka Kiira's Gramps on 6/5/2021 at 2:54 pm
June 4, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 9:59 pm PT
We got up and packed up camp this morning with blue skies and little to no wind. Having just put in a cache at 13,500’ the terrain would not be new. A warmer day than yesterday had us stuck at times behind slower moving parties. We got to 14,200’ camp located in Genet Basin having done a lot of hard work but the Team built camp and we are getting ready for a late dinner. We got a chance to see 2 of 3 RMI teams as they descended from high camp this evening. Tomorrow we will sleep in, pick up our cache and continue to improve camp. No need to go up high until we get a few nights here and some well earned rest. Thanks for following along.
This is Awesome news!! Enjoy every moment , every beautiful view! Climb Strong Tom!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:47 am
Great to see blue skies and improved weather. Get needed rest and move ahead. Thank you for in insight and photography. Tell Rob hello, Tio
Posted by: Kleberg Tio on 6/4/2021 at 12:56 pm
June 3, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 6:15 pm PT
Good afternoon! This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling on June 3rd from the summit of Denali, the highest point in North America. We are up here on a beautiful afternoon, in-and-out of the clouds. Sometimes we can see 100 miles; sometimes we can only see our climbing boots. We had an awesome climb today. Started off a little chilly in the shade, but all-in-all it has been a wonderful day of climbing. We are enjoying 15 minutes on top right now. It is about 5:15 local time. We are going to pack up and head downhill where we should be back between 9 and 10 pm tonight. Thanks everyone for following along. Friends and family- I am sure you’ll be happy to hear from your respective individuals in a few days. Our hope is to move down to a lower elevation, thicker air and catch a plane to the land of burgers and beer within a couple of days. Thanks for following along. Bye.
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Denali summit!
E-L-L-I-O-T
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!
Enjoy the peace and wonder of your celebratory lap down mountain.
Love ya, proud of ya - period.
Sláinte
The Old Man
Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/5/2021 at 6:35 pm
Awesome Job Eric!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:50 am
June 3, 2021
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 348'
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 11:37 am PT
We woke up early this morning to try to get the first flight slot out this morning, and optimistically we got our boots on and loaded up the planes. Unfortunately, as things often happen in Alaska, we got turned around just as we were entering the Alaska Range due to low visibility. We are now back in Talkeetna anxiously awaiting our next opportunity to fly. Stay tuned.
Steve and Alan (and everyone else), here’s to some bluebirds in your immediate future. Hope you’re enjoying your hangar hangout time!
Posted by: John Schampel on 6/4/2021 at 7:00 pm
Jack and Nick, no matter what, you look cool!
Posted by: Barb and John The Parents on 6/4/2021 at 3:06 pm
June 3, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 10:27 am PT
We've waited through wind and snow for weeks and we finally got our shot. We woke up yesterday to clear skies and relatively (for 17k feet) warm temps in camp. We had stoves firing early, before sun hit camp, and got everyone up to start prepping. With breakfast done and packs loaded we stepped out of our sunny camp into the shadow of the Autobahn. It was a chilly couple hours crossing to Denali Pass and we were all psyched to get back into the sun. A slight, but cold 10mph breeze in our face kept it chilly all day, but we kept moving past Zebra Rocks, around Archdeacons Tower, onto the Football Field, up Pig Hill, and along the summit ridge to the summit! We were standing on top just after 6pm yesterday. With photos taken, we started working our way back down, well aware of the distance still to get back to the comfort of our sleeping bags. The long hours of sun help alot and we rolled back into camp around 11pm, just as the sun left camp. Tired, chilly, sore, but excited that we managed to reach our goal!
We'll start working our way down the mountain today, back to warmer temps, more oxygen, and a flight back to Talkeetna. They tend to be long days, so dispatches might be short, but we are headed home.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Luke Wilhelm, and RMI Teams 1 and 2
What an amazing accomplishment all of you have made !! Marc, I am so proud and honored to have you as my son.
Love you, Papa Bear
Posted by: David Gollob on 6/5/2021 at 7:33 am
Congratulations all! Such a lifetime of memories. Be safe coming down so you can make more memories.
Posted by: Susan K. Moore on 6/4/2021 at 10:27 pm
June 3, 2021
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
RMI Guide Mike Walter and his team reached the Denali summit yesterday with Pete Van Deventer's team.
Congratulations to both teams!
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 10:27 am PT
We've waited through wind and snow for weeks and we finally got our shot. We woke up yesterday to clear skies and relatively (for 17k feet) warm temps in camp. We had stoves firing early, before sun hit camp, and got everyone up to start prepping. With breakfast done and packs loaded we stepped out of our sunny camp into the shadow of the Autobahn. It was a chilly couple hours crossing to Denali Pass and we were all psyched to get back into the sun. A slight, but cold 10mph breeze in our face kept it chilly all day, but we kept moving past Zebra Rocks, around Archdeacons Tower, onto the Football Field, up Pig Hill, and along the summit ridge to the summit! We were standing on top just after 6pm yesterday. With photos taken, we started working our way back down, well aware of the distance still to get back to the comfort of our sleeping bags. The long hours of sun help alot and we rolled back into camp around 11pm, just as the sun left camp. Tired, chilly, sore, but excited that we managed to reach our goal!
We'll start working our way down the mountain today, back to warmer temps, more oxygen, and a flight back to Talkeetna. They tend to be long days, so dispatches might be short, but we are headed home.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Luke Wilhelm, and RMI Teams 1 and 2
Belated congratulations! Well done!
Posted by: Susan K. Moore on 6/4/2021 at 10:31 pm
Way to go Team Walter! Can’t wait to see you Nate and hear of your adventure! Godspeed
Posted by: Mary Glassman on 6/4/2021 at 4:48 pm
June 3, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
Wednesday, June 2, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT
The team moved to Denali's 17K Camp today through tough winds. We left camp early to blue skies and cold air as we headed up the fixed lines. The top of the fixed lines yielded increased wind, and we quickly donned our hard shells. As we climbed further up the West Buttress, we pushed through more ferocious wind and scattered clouds. Thankfully, as we rolled into camp the clouds abated and we are left hoping the weather holds for our summit push tomorrow.
E-L-L-I-O-T & Team!
Denali Rules: P = m x v
(summit) Momentum = (team) Mass x Velocity (of its heart)
Stay present; enjoy your ride up and down that glacial coaster!
Un pour tous et tous pour un!
Love
Athos, Porthos & Aramis
Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/3/2021 at 6:34 pm
Elliot and team
Our positive thoughts are coming your way for a successful climb to the summit.
You’ve got this!
Mom and Dad Campos
Posted by: Susan Campos on 6/3/2021 at 11:58 am
June 3, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, June 2, 2021 - 5:24 pm PT
We had a cold clear night and woke to blue skies. The goal today was to cache food and fuel around Windy Corner at 13,500'. The route would take us up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill. From there it’s across the Polo Field and into the Saddle before Windy Corner. Windy Corner lived up to its name but the winner of the strongest winds today was the Polo Field. The Team did well and enjoyed the amazing views of the surrounding Alaska Range. We are back at 11K Camp eating food and enjoying some warm tents. We hope to move to 14K Camp tomorrow if the weather permits. There is a weather system forecasted that might keep us here for a few days. We’ll let you know when we know.
Great photos, looks spectacular. Stay strong Rob and team!
Posted by: Brett on 6/4/2021 at 7:07 am
Climb Strong Brother Tom!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/4/2021 at 2:51 am
June 2, 2021
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, June 1, 2021 - 10:48 pm PT
A fresh few inches of snow covered camp this morning as we waited for the sun to warm us up. We slowly rolled out of our sleeping bags and ate a leisurely paced blueberry pancake breakfast. The day was spent preparing for our move to 17,000' Camp tomorrow. We sorted our gear into summit gear and gear we can leave here at 14,000' Camp as well as planned our food for our summit push. The afternoon was full of movie watching and sport eating, a favorite Denali pastime. After dinner and philosophical discussions, we all tucked into our tents to be rested for the coming days ahead.
Let’s go James!!!!! You are such an inspiration.
Get down safe, can’t wait to hear all about it!
Posted by: Thomas on 6/4/2021 at 7:20 am
Cheering you on Norm!!!
What an adventure!!
Prayers and lots of enthusiasm for you and the group!!!
Positive thoughts going your way!!
Love Laura & Mike
Posted by: Laura on 6/3/2021 at 10:57 am
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Rest well Mike , Tom and team!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/6/2021 at 3:31 am
Keep up the good work Two-Dads! Just reading this blog makes me feel tired
Posted by: Adam on 6/5/2021 at 7:39 pm
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