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Entries from Denali


Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Climb Ski Hill and Settle into Camp

Saturday, June 12, 2021 - 9:15 pm PT

Hello all,

The team has made it a day closer to the summit. Ski hill was a leg burner first thing this morning. It has been the most sustained uphill thus far, but the team walked strong and arrived to camp in good style. Clear skies and lots of sun made for a very toasty afternoon. It can be easy to forget how cold this mountain gets when you feel like you are sleeping on a tropical island, baking in these tents. As the evening progresses the temps will drop, and the cool brisk air will be a welcomed feeling as we cozy up in our sleeping bags.

Tomorrow we move to 11k camp. It is an exciting move because we will spend at least three days there. No more wake, move, sleep repeat. It’s always fun to settle into a camp and make it home for more than a day.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Back Carry and Settle into 14K Camp

Saturday, June 12. 2021 - 7:51 pm PT

Today we back carried to our cache at 13,500, which was a great way to get a little exercise. We now have all of our supplies up with us at 14 camp and are ready for a full rest day tomorrow!

The weather is beautiful, hot and sunny during the day, albeit quite cold at night. We truly are in the land of extremes. Our camp looks dialed and clean, our team is working as a well-oiled machine.

All the best from 14 camp and hope everyone is well!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

So enjoying watching your trek from afar.  Would take a bit of that coolness - quite hot and humid here in MO.

Posted by: Melody Reardon on 6/13/2021 at 9:01 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move Up to 14K Camp

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

Today we traded the damp snowy conditions of 11K Camp for the cold dry conditions of 14K Camp and it sure feels good! The team had a long heavy day moving from 11K but everyone performed as we are beginning to expect, strongly.

We had a great dinner of chicken and rice, and are now getting warm in our sleeping bags, feeling accomplished and happy to be up at Denali's 14K Camp.

Tomorrow we plan to back carry and improve camp.

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jack - Glad you and Nick and the crew are safe and still feeling strong. So sad to hear of those that had to be helicoptered out.  Really excited every time you ascend to the next camp. Look forward to watching your progress further north!

Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/12/2021 at 6:31 pm

Nick, Jack and team - Keep strong! Enjoy the journey! Looks amazing! Thinking of you. - mom and dad.

Posted by: Nick's parents on 6/12/2021 at 11:06 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Reach Summit with All Team Members

Update: Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

We woke to a clear and "warm" by 17K Camp standards morning and decided to get out in front of the inevitable hoard of climbers that would be attempting the summit today. With cold hands and toes warming up by the time we got to Denali Pass we kept breaking trail in spots and resting on what was the warmest and windless summit day I’ve been a part of. Some of the group had just a base layer and light weight gloves on at 19,500'. Everyone in the group, 9 climbers and 3 guides stood on top of the tallest peak in North America. We got some good views of the surrounding glacier and mountains. We even had 2 returning climbers who got turned around 2 years ago due to bad weather. Your loved ones will have all sorts of stories to share, know that they are safe in camp and taking care of themselves after an arduous 14-hour day. We will plan to descend to 14K Camp tomorrow and perhaps lower if the weather cooperates. While the objective we all set out 2 weeks ago has been accomplished, we still have a lot of terrain to navigate so we can get to the airstrip for flights on Sunday or Monday (weather permitting). Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Mike King

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 4:00 pm PT

We received word this afternoon from RMI Guide Mike King that his team was on the summit of Denali with 100% of their team members.  We wish them a safe descent and a hearty congratulations for all their hardwork!

Way to go team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all!  Way to go, Huw!

Posted by: Traci Gentry on 6/14/2021 at 11:05 am

Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Thanks for getting your team and our son safely back to sea level, we enjoyed the daily Blog and was excited to hear that all the team members reach the summit safely, Thanks again.
Mom and Dad Fortier

Posted by: Robert Fortier on 6/13/2021 at 6:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Travel to 7,800ft and Set up Camp

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 8:06 pm PT

Greetings from 7,800 Camp,

The early morning greeted us with views of all the surrounding peaks: Hunter, Foraker, and Francis. After filling our bellies with instant coffee and bacon bagel sandwiches we broke down camp, loaded the sleds, clipped into the ropes and hit the glacier. The day started with a gradual downhill to give us a nice warmup to the heavy sleds. Four miles later with achy hips, back and feet we arrived to our new home for the day. It was a hard, heavy day but the team handled it with flying colors. The rest of the day was filled with naps, munching on snacks, and a game of cards. Tomorrow's agenda is to move to 9,500 Camp. Ski hill will be our morning warmup, so an early night to rest up is a must.

Early to bed, early to rise,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move Gear above Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:56 pm PT

Today was not a super nice day, but it was nice enough! We cached additional food and supplies at 13,500 and felt great. This puts us in position to move to 14,000' Camp when we are ready and weather allows. It looks like the weather should be decent tomorrow before the next round of storms come in. Stay tuned to follow our progress tomorrow!!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Nick, you’ve always been an inspiration and role model, which is why I want to tell you that I will be taking my talents to Alabama. Roll Tide.

Posted by: Kool-Aid Mckinstry on 6/12/2021 at 4:02 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Load Planes, Arrive at Kahiltna Base Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 6:09 pm PT

Good evening,

The sun made its way past the curtains flickering in the room. Knowing the sun was partly out was a good sign for flying today. As we made our way to the hangar, we got the call telling us to get our butts in gear. It was time to load the planes. Street shoes were traded in for boots, jeans traded for climbing pants. The air was filled with the roar of the planes and also nerves and excitment knowing that we were about to start our expeditions. Great views and a smooth ride brought us to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Just as we were so excited to fly onto the glacier, other teams stood ready and excited to fly off. We will be them in a few weeks. The rest of the day was spent setting up camp and refreshing skills. We will wake early tomorrow morning to make our way to the next camp.

Let the fun begin,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to hear the sun made an appearance and you’re underway. Best wishes for the whole team. I’m thinking of you Byron!

Posted by: Heather Collins on 6/11/2021 at 5:40 pm

Get it, Dustin!! Make Kareem proud with those clear glasses!

Posted by: Drew Dykstra on 6/11/2021 at 1:06 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Take a Rest Day at 17,000ft Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:48 pm PT

We finally got turned in around 11 pm last night after building camp and getting some food and water in us. The night was calm and cold. The weather pattern is supposed to be breaking up through the day so if we get some visibility and lighter winds above we’ll try for the summit tomorrow. The Team is doing well and getting a little anxious about whether the conditions will cooperate. We built some wind walls out of snow as our activity today. Some light snow and solar on the tents allow us to focus on hydration, food and keeping our gear dry so that we are ready to launch in the morning....if the weather and mountain allows. That’s all from 17 Camp.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Tom! I am with you every step of the way!!! Sending prayers for Strong Climbing!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/12/2021 at 2:41 am

So excited camp that y’all secured high camp! We cannot wait for updates over the next couple days. Thinking of you all, cheering you on, and crossing our fingers for clear weather for your summit bid. Keep on keeping on! Yeehaw! (Love you, Abbs!)

Posted by: Rae on 6/11/2021 at 9:45 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait Out the Weather at 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 9:40 pm PT

We woke up hoping to cache below 14,000 Camp, the mountain had other plans so we spent the day eating, reading, relaxing, and building a snow fort. Hopefully tomorrow the weather complies and we can move supplies up the mountain.

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 17,200ft Camp

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 10:42 pm PT

The weather forecast has been calling for a tapering of the wind and clouds above 17,200’ beginning late Thursday. After being camp and tent bound for almost a week we decided to move camp. The weather was warm, cloudy, windy, hot and cold all over the 7ish hours it took us to move. There was some uphill and downhill traffic that we dealt with. The climbing on the West Buttress is by far the highlight so far. With expansive views of the Peter’s glacier and the black rock of the North Summit the team kept their heads down and did the hard work. We are safe in camp working on dinner and drinking water. A rest day is likely tomorrow as Friday seems to be the day for a summit attempt. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job you guys!

Posted by: Roger Rood on 6/11/2021 at 9:37 am

Very glad for all that you were able to make the change of camps as you prepare for your climb to the summit. Praying for good weather and a beautiful day. Congratulations to Rob

Posted by: Tío Kleberg on 6/10/2021 at 7:38 pm

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