Entries By pete van deventer

Elevation: 12,500'

We're tucked in and doing great at Camp 1 on Mt. Elbrus. Today was a rest day for the team but we still had to pick up some gear from our cache. That got taken care of first thing in the morning and in the afternoon we did a little bit of training out on the glacier. Tomorrow we're planning on putting another food cache in at high camp. Once that is done we just need a couple of days of good weather for a summit bid. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Paul

I’m very proud of you and I cannot wait to hear about all the exciting details of the climb.

I love and miss you more than words can express.

Sherri

Posted by: Sherri on 8/30/2013 at 8:36 am

Hi Lisa,
All this talk of moving your food cache is making me hungry (and tired)
Best of luck on Summit day. Be safe
Lin

Posted by: Linda Poirier on 8/30/2013 at 8:23 am

Mt. Elbrus: North Side Teams Moves to Camp 1

August 28, 2013

Elevation: 12,500'

The progress continues on Mt. Elbrus! We followed up yesterday's successful carry with a move to Camp 1 on today at 12,500'. Last night's rain cleared out, and this morning was beautiful when we woke. Having already seen most of the terrain seems to make things easier, and the group did great on our first move today. We are settled in to camp, and all the hatches are battened down just in case we see some more rain. I don't think anybody is bummed to not have to share our camp area with any bovine friends. The plan tomorrow is to head a short way back to our cache site to retrieve everything, and then brush up on our cramponing and rope travel skills just outside camp. We'll be in touch! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and team
Great tracking your progress! Have fin and stay safe!!!
Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 8/29/2013 at 4:34 am

Let David Aaroe know that his partners are hard at work in Portland, but finding time to follow the team’s progress. Thankful that all is going well.

Posted by: Jim Kilpatrick on 8/28/2013 at 11:48 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Arrives Base Camp

August 27, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall

Elevation: 8,300'

If success is defined by waking up, having a good breakfast, climbing to a new height on Mt. Elbrus, getting our cache gear on place, and most importantly, getting down before the rain started, then we had a spectacularly successful day. It was a beautiful climb up to our cache site 11,500', with plenty of great photo opportunities, and everyone got a chance to stretch their lungs out after the last several days of traveling by planes and automobiles. The rain was kind enough to hold off until we got back, and with any luck, it will clear out tonight, setting us up for a move to camp1 tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes! Best from Russia, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall, and team

On The Map

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team in Kislovodsk

August 25, 2013

We're in Kislovodsk! Today we made it one step closer to the mountain. We had an early start in Moscow and then caught a 2 hour and 15 minute flight to Mineralnye Vody. From there it was just an hour drive to the city of Kislovodsk where our hotel is. Once we checked into the hotel, everyone sorted their gear while Pete and I went to a supermarket. We picked up some fresh food for basecamp. We'll be getting an early start tomorrow for the 4x4 road to camp. Here's a shot from the awesome pizza place we went to for dinner. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and Team
Good to hear things are progressing well. Looking forward to following your ascent and blog. Stay safe.
Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 8/27/2013 at 4:33 am

Paul(my mountain man),

I’m extremely proud of you! I love you and miss your presence. Cannot wait to climb with you in May!

Sherri

Posted by: Sherri on 8/26/2013 at 12:32 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Seth and Team Tour Moscow

August 24, 2013

Hi Everyone, It's been a fun, if slightly soggy, day in Moscow. The day started with thunder and lightning at sunrise but as we all met up over breakfast the light show subsided. After breakfast we took a nice walk around Red Square and met up with a local tour guide. She took us into the Kremlin and showed us all around the old cathedrals inside. While we were in the Kremlin the skies opened up and it started to rain. We gave everyone the option to bail out and return to the hotel but this crew is tough and all of the stuck it out. After touring the Kremlin some folks wanted to do their own thing for a bit so we split into 3 groups for lunch time. After that we met back in the hotel and reviewed the gear necessary for the climb. Pete and I split up after that and checked out everyone's gears individually. Everyone seems very well prepared with top-notch gear and plenty of mountain food. Everything is lining up nicely for our departure for Mineralnye Vody and Kisklovodsk tomorrow. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and Pete…Hello from the hot and humid cornfields of Indiana…Have a great adventure…About this moment Fred is stepping into Ohio River for his Iron Man…Hope to see him tomorrow…Best + bless…Waltero…Be foloing you all along…Godspeed

Posted by: Walter Glover on 8/25/2013 at 4:04 am

Pete and James
Wonderful to see familiar friendly faces climbing together again. Have a safe trip.
Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 8/24/2013 at 5:36 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Arrives in Moscow

August 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Seth Waterfall

Hello from Moscow. The RMI Mt. Elbrus Northside team has all arrived and the trip is officially under way. We met up this evening for a meet-and-greet and then went out to dinner. The team seems very well aligned as far as goals and expectations for the trip. It was a short night for us as many folks have just arrived in Moscow and, it's raining with thunder and lightning all around the downtown area. Tomorrow we're scheduled to take a tour of the Kremlin and the other sights around Red Square. I'll take some photos and send them on in the afternoon. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall & Pete Van Deventer

Mt. Rainier: August 19th Team Summits!

August 19, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer braved the winds to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. After a short rest on the summit, the team began their descent shortly before 8 am. They will return to Camp Muir to refuel before descending to Paradise later today. We look forward to their arrival in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers! RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons continue to spend their days training. Today the team moves from their camp on the Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman in preparation for their summit attempt.

Mt. Rainier: August 12th Teams Reach Summit!

August 12, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported blustery, clear, and cold conditions on the upper mountain. The teams will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations on a great climb!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The guides at RMI really make the difference here! We were fortunate to have Pete and Chase who pushed us along the way and made sure that we were doing all the right things to make the summit! Thanks Guys!

Posted by: Anil on 8/14/2013 at 11:26 am

Congratulations gang! I hated to ‘bail-out’ but conditioning is the key to keeping a group on-schedule and I personally didn’t feel I had it yet. No worries… Next time! Thanks Pete for your most professional guidance…and to Chase for yours. Again thanks!... Congratulations…and ‘See you on the mountain!’ Cheers!

Posted by: Dave McLaughlin on 8/13/2013 at 12:28 pm

Mountaineering Training | 5 Packing Tips From RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

August 12, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Between training and the climb itself, climbers spend a lot of time with a pack on their backs. Somewhat of a necessary evil, the goal is to make your pack carry comfortably and efficiently so that it doesn’t work against you. A few tips that will result in a more enjoyable pack to carry:

1. Minimize dead space in the pack

2. Try to fit everything (except the ice axe) inside the pack

3. Keep the mass of the pack close to your body

4. Frequently adjust the straps to carry the load more comfortably

5. Have a system

Minimizing dead space in the pack will help the pack ride in a more balanced way, and allow you to fit everything inside. A big factor that creates dead space is too many stuff sacks packed together. Round or barrel shaped stuff sacks don’t nest together well, instead leaving large gaps between them (like a cup full of marbles). To minimize this effect, try to limit the number of stuff sacks you use. A compression stuff sack for your sleeping bag is important, as it dramatically reduces the volume of the sleeping bag, but most of the other items can be packed loose, without stuff sacks. The down parka and spare insulating layers do a great job of packing around the sleeping bag to fill any spaces. Some guides go so far as to pack their pack partway, and then (taking care not to crush anything breakable) insert their foot into the pack and squish everything down to squeeze out all of the air. In addition, if climbers have packs with dedicated sleeping bag compartments, I often recommend that they detach the shelf that separates the compartment from the main pack, and treat the pack as one large tube. Sleeping bag compartments tend to create dead space where we want it least, right near the center of mass of our bodies.

Minimize the number of items that are attached to the outside of the pack. The ice axe generally has a dedicated attachment point (the ice axe loops), and is really the only exception to this rule. The rest of our equipment should fit inside the pack. With a little bit of thought, items that seem to take up a lot of space can be packed more efficiently. For example, by stuffing the helmet with extra socks and food before packing it, the volume of the helmet itself becomes very little. Crampons can be put together so that the tines cover each other, and they too can be placed in the pack. Items clipped to the outside of the pack tend to swing, get damaged, and make a ruckus. By minimizing the number of items clipped to the outside of the pack, your pack will carry more comfortably and with less noise!

In general when you are packing, place items that you won’t need or use that stretch to the bottom of the pack, while items that you would like to keep handy (food, sunscreen, etc) stay near the top. Additionally, place heavier items closer to the back panel of the pack, keeping them nearer your center of mass.

There is no perfect fit for a pack, and comfort and fit of your pack will change throughout the course of a climb or training session. In general, try to carry the majority of the weight on your hips. When putting on a pack, hitch the pack up higher on your back than it will ride, and cinch down the waist strap. Then tighten the shoulder straps until they just make contact with your shoulders. Next, lightly tighten the load lifter straps on the shoulder straps and waist belt. This helps to pull the weight of the pack in closer to your back and helps with balance. Lastly, constantly adjust throughout the day as discomforts arise!

Have a system to your pack so that you have a good idea where each item is. This will save you time and frustration throughout the climb, if you can reach straight to a warmer pair of gloves for example, rather than unpack most of your pack each time you need an item. With a well-organized system, you will spend more time at each break resting and recovering, and less time digging for items in your pack. With a little bit of time and practice your pack won’t be such a burden and your training sessions, and ultimately the climb, will be more enjoyable!

________

Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Read about Pete's recent sailing and ski mountaineering trip to Norway's Lofoten Islands on the RMI Blog.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What are your thoughts on training with steel barbell weights in a pack, up to 50 pounds? Does this mimic climbing conditions, or should different materials be used for a more realistic pack feel?

Posted by: Mark on 11/19/2019 at 6:58 pm

Hi Vikas,
It depends on how many days you are heading out for and what kinds of conditions you expect to encounter. In general, a 60L - 85L pack should be adequate for a backpacking trip of several days in the summer. Check out Whittaker Mountaineering’s Guide to Backpacks for more information on picking and sizing a pack:
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/mountain-logic/guide-to-backpacks
- The RMI Team

Posted by: RMI Expeditions on 5/24/2014 at 12:42 pm

Mt. Rainier: August 7th Teams Summit!

August 7, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

We had teams summit via three different routes on Mt. Rainier this morning: Dave Hahn and Jason Thompson led teams via the Disappointment Cleaver Route, Pete Van Deventer via the Kautz Glacier Route, and Garrett Stevens on the Emmons Glacier Route. They reported chilly conditions, winds about 15 mph and sunny skies. All teams had left the crater rim by 7:50 a.m. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Ben and Kara! Summited on Claire’s Birthday.

Posted by: Dad, Connie and Claire on 8/8/2013 at 6:20 pm

So happy for you Kara, Ben and Jeff! You’ve worked so hard for this… I am so proud!! Come home safely, I can’t wait to hear about everything. I love you!!

Posted by: Chris sand on 8/7/2013 at 8:44 pm