Entries By pete van deventer
May 16, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 12:41 am PT
We hit the ground running today. At 8 am the weather looked good to fly, so we hustled to the hanger, changed into mountain clothes, and loaded gear on the two K2 otters that would ferry us to Basecamp. The flight in is always a highlight, as the tundra gives way to foothills, and then to the craggy peaks and ridges of the Alaska range, with cracked up glaciers carving channels between.
We took an hour or two to get our gear sorted, sleds loaded, and ropes setup, and then struck out from Basecamp to make our way up the lower Kahiltna to the base of ski hill. Often the first hour of moving with sleds has some hiccups, but not for us today. The group moved well, enjoying firm enough trail conditions that we could eschew the snowshoes.
We're settled into camp, feed, and tucking into sleeping bags for our first night in the mountain. We'll be in touch tomorrow!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
Friday May 14, 2021 - 6:44 pm PT
The team spent a good day packing and prepping everything to be ready to fly into the Alaska Range tomorrow. Coffee and crepes to start the morning, orientation with the National Park Service, then digging into gear and packing for the planes: all went smoothly. All our bags are weighed and sorted, waiting to be loaded in the morning weather willing, and we'll trust the awesome pilots at K2 to tell us if and when it's time to fly.
With a bit of luck, we'll be checking in from tents on the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
After months of preparation, you guys are ready. Go get it!!
Praying for you all daily!
Posted by: Christy Cunningham on 5/15/2021 at 7:24 pm
Good luck everyone. Marc, have a wonderful, rewarding and successful climb. Looking forward to seeing you do your 49th with Denali, and then finally Mauna Kea, number 50 !! Then we can celebrate in Hawaii.
Love you, Sonny boy
Posted by: David Gollob on 5/15/2021 at 1:43 pm
May 6, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Andy Bond, Ben Luedtke, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Andy Bond led their team of climbers on the Five Day Climb May 3 - 7 to 13,000' today before deteriorating weather forced them to turn around.
The team completed their Mountaineering School on Tuesday and ascended to Camp Muir yesterday for their first night at 10,080'. They will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow.
A valiant climb made by all! Good work, climbers. Sorry you did not reach the summit, but glad for your safety. <3
Posted by: Lauren Kraft on 5/7/2021 at 9:20 am
Bummer.
Hope they get the chance and make the summit.
Posted by: Don West on 5/6/2021 at 9:56 pm
May 2, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Grayson Swingle and Henry Coppolillo led their team to the summit of Mt. Baker today on the Mt. Baker Summit & Ski Descent program Apriil 30 - 2 May, 2021.
The team gathered on Friday and made their ascent to Sandy Camp. Yesterday they spent the morning with a Ski Mountaineering Day School practicing basic mountaineering skills. They took a short ski tour in the afternoon to get in some turns.
Today they made their summit attempt and reached the top of Mt. Baker in the early afternoon. They will be enjoying their ski descent back to camp this afternoon and will pack their gear and descend to the trailhead.
Congratulations to the team!
From RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
This season brought about a different approach to training for me, as for so many of our guides and climbers. In a typical year, the summer guiding season counts for the vast majority of my “training” time. Multiple 12+ hour days a week in the mountains is a great way to build a deep aerobic base, and that leaves me free to fill in around workdays with activities that I enjoy (trail running, mountain biking, and ski touring top that list). While many of our climbers are training for a specific climb and many of our guides are counting those same climbs as training, the training principles between groups aren’t actually that different. Our climbers are trying to be at peak fitness for their climb to give themselves the best chance of reaching the summit, for guides the same training gives us the durability to do 10, 20, even 30 climbs a season without our bodies falling apart.
The cancellation of the climbing season this year necessitated a different approach for me. I count myself extremely lucky to live amongst Colorado’s Elk Mountains, with miles of trail running, mountain biking, ski touring, and peaks immediately accessible. With local trails one of the few outlets left to us this spring, I happily was putting in miles, finding new trails, and generally filling the aerobic base hole that the loss of the season brought. Just like everyone, I have my preferred activities, things that I count as training, but bring me personal joy as well. Ripping through swoopy single track on a mountain bike makes me grin, even if my heart is jumping out of my chest. Other activities aren’t so enjoyable, and they feel like training. I do them out of a sense of duty to the training plan, but I’m not smiling. Weight rooms top this list. I found as spring bled into summer, that I was putting a lot of time into the training activities that I liked, while totally dropping the ones I didn’t, and that was leaving a big hole in my fitness. I needed some structure.
Exercise is doing activities that stress the body and make our body work, while training is the programmed and strategic arrangement of patterns of exercise to increase performance and achieve a predetermined goal. It is difficult to put together a training plan if you do not have a goal. My goal became to build a base of specific strength and endurance to give me durability through the ski season, and I turned to our partners at Uphill Athlete for a 12-week Ski Mountaineering plan. Much of the plan involves activities that I enjoy: lots of trail running and some mountain biking for recovery workouts. There are also some twists that I usually don’t incorporate, but are fun: level 3 long interval workouts, and very short, all out hill sprints. There is also a strong focus on strength work, and though I struggle to be engaged by gyms, a different take on strength has actually been pretty fun and interesting. I’ve been doing a mixture of max strength, very low rep lifting work, as well as very high rep, very low weight muscular endurance work. Both are interesting in how the workout doesn’t necessarily feel taxing during, but for days after I find myself feeling the aftereffects. A bit sore, a bit depleted, but also seeing pretty quick improvements and results.
In Colorado, we got our first snow early, the last week of October. This kicks off the few weeks every year that feel awkward as an athlete. There is too much snow and mud on the trails to ride a mountain bike, but there isn’t enough snow to skin yet (my bar for this is pretty low, as skiing on grass still feels like skiing, but there isn’t enough even for me!). I went for a run up one of my favorite local mountain bike trails, and though the details of getting out the door were complicated (do I wear shorts because it’s in the 60s, or pants because I’ll be running through 4 or 5 inches of snow) I found a simple joy in picking my way through snow and mud and moving fast on foot on a trail that no one else seemed to be interested in taking.
I came back with renewed energy to train, running my local snowy, muddy trails until enough snow lands to allow me to ski. It has been a strange year to train, with gyms alternately open, closed, then open again, restrictions on our ability to get out and travel to our favorite places. I’d encourage everyone to set a training goal (or multiple), lean into what you can do, and blend the activities that leave you smiling with the others that are necessary to reach your goal.
New to this climbing world, Started out with trail hiking the Grand canyon. Trying my first Mountain at the Grand Tetons in June of 2024. I have a friend that introduced me to kettle-bell work outs. An E.M.O.M. routine 6 days a week with one day of just step ups.
This has been a game changer for my fitness levels, Would highly recommend his program {Adventure fit by Derek Toshner} I adapted the workouts to fit my age and fitness one day kettlebell next day body weight routines. My age is 59, yesterday’s workout was a mile walk with a 44lb bell over head swing to switch arms every 100 steps, Seems easy right, not so much; back, forearms, legs, core, all engaged, an exercise that would help in pulling that 60 pound sled and increase cardio.
Posted by: Richard Hulbert on 2/19/2023 at 4:22 am
I too followed Uphill Athlete’s 12-week program and then some. Never trained harder in my life. Still unable to summit Rainier after a second attempt. The fitness requirements to summit that mountain truly elude me. I had a great time being up there, but when you put in the months of hard work and dedication and still come up short, it is monumentally frustrating. Bottom line mountaineering is no joke, and it demands a level of fitness that despite targeted training and motivated commitment, I still have not achieved. I have immense respect for those who seem to have cracked the code and have made their goals a reality. I only wish I knew where I am going wrong.
Posted by: Jordan Cook on 7/6/2021 at 7:34 pm
August 1, 2020
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Dustin Wittmier, Hannah Smith, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir teams led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Dustin Wittmier, Hannah Smith and Kiira Antenucci reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today under clear skies and moderate winds. The teams were descending from the crater rim around 7:30 am PT.
The group gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Monday for a full day orientation to prepare for their program. On Tuesday morning the group left for Paradise where they donned packs and made the ascent to Camp Muir. The teams spent the next few days training near Camp Muir, honing their mountaineering skills and preparing to make their summit today. Today is their final day on the mountain and once they return to Camp Muir, they will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's teams on capping off a great week of training by standing on the summit of Mt. Rainier!
September 8, 2019
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Andy Bond
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
WTG dad! So proud! Can’t wait to see pictures!
Posted by: Jennifer C Hitz on 9/8/2019 at 5:00 pm
Good job, Proud of you!
Posted by: Bobby & Kristi on 9/8/2019 at 12:53 pm
September 2, 2019
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations Kerry & Jeff, you did it…..never a doubt! We miss you, just know, it’s 100 degrees in Colorado today, the snow looks very refreshing. See you soon. Kisses
Posted by: Grandma on 9/2/2019 at 2:39 pm
Awesome Jeff & Kerry! What a great feeling it must be to train and accomplish such a feat
Posted by: Tom Hutcheson on 9/2/2019 at 11:08 am
August 29, 2019
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Josh McDowell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Awesome climb, awesome guides, good advice. professional team. Thanks josh! Take care.
Paul
Posted by: Paul koltronis on 9/2/2019 at 2:04 am
Way to go, dad! What an amazing accomplishment. . . You never cease to amaze us! We love you and are so proud of you!
Safe journey to the mainland.
Love and God Bless,
Bo, Chris, and Carlton
Posted by: Bo, Chris, and Carlton on 8/29/2019 at 2:20 pm
August 23, 2019
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Jason- Your structural engineering group is cheering you on from afar!! We miss you and look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Hope you’re not thinking of Camden Shops up there lol.
Posted by: Katherine Bemis on 5/28/2021 at 6:30 am
Jason, All that tire pulling with Sully is paying off! You got this!
Lisa and Charlie
Posted by: Lisa and Charlie on 5/18/2021 at 9:56 am
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