Entries By mike haugen
July 18, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by
RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team spent several nights on the mountain training for their summit attempt on Rainier and gaining knowledge and experience for future climbs. Today is the sixth and final day of this program putting their new skills to use.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit this morning. As of 7:30 am both teams were at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent. It's a bluebird day on Mt. Rainier, clear skies and warm temperatures. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing both teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
July 11, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen along with the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. As of 7 am both teams were on their descent and approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir.
Conditions are beautiful this morning with warm temperatures and light winds reported from Camp Muir (10,080').
Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
Our
Four and
Five Day Summit Climbs led by
RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Garret Stevens were just leaving the crater rim at 7:19 am. The teams have had a blue bird morning with clear skies, great views and light winds. We expect the teams back at Rainier Base Camp this afternoon.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
June 29, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 348'
June 29, 2014 - 8:23 am PT
We finally got off
Mt. McKinley as the snow stopped and the clouds parted. We wrapped up a great adventure with a great meal that did not have to be rehydrated.
I want to thank Bruce and Josh for being great partners in our adventure. Bruce is one of my heroes. Even though he is blind, he climbs with a natural ability and has a great mountain sense. He truly understands what mountaineering is all about. I look forward to our future adventures together!
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
June 27, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
June 26, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT
We set out Tuesday morning to move up to 17k when circumstances both unfortunate and out of our control forced us back down to 14k camp. We made the wise mountaineering decision to forgo the summit for another time and begin the arduous trek back to Denali's Basecamp. We made it back to Basecamp around ten yesterday morning and were disheartened to hear that although clear here, the planes were not flying because of weather between here and Talkeetna. We set up camp and made the best of being stuck in the
Alaska range.
Although we thought our adventure was winding down, we woke up last night to over a foot and a half of snow threatening our tent. We shoveled around camp for over two hours helping other teams that had tents collapse. When the snow finally slowed down this morning, we had collected well over three feet! Although it was fun to see that much snow, it also meant we needed to put on our snowshoes to stomp down an entire runway filled with nearly waste deep, wet snow. The weather never really cleared today, but we are hoping that we will not receive as much snow tonight and the weather will be clear for flight activity to resume tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 23, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 23, 2014 - 7:31 pm PT
We decided that today would be a great day to do some more acclimatization at
14,000' on Mt. McKinley. Instead of carrying our gear higher we decided to rest today and then retrieve our gear on our move to 17,000' tomorrow. The team is feeling strong and we are feeling very positive about a good summit bid once we get into position at seventeen. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather for us for a few days!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 23, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at
14,000' on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000' camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000' Camp.
RMI Guide
Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 22, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT
We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to
16,200'. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 21, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 20, 1014 - 10:00 pm PT
We woke up this morning when the sun hit the tent. It was a cold morning here on
Denali so it took us awhile to get out and about. We were on a rest/acclimatization day so we ate, drank, and took care of some chores to get us ready for our cache day up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some gear to somewhere between here and 17,000' camp. The actual cache spot will depend on how well we are feeling and what the weather gives us.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 20, 2014
Posted by: Mike Haugen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
June 20, 2014 - 8:29 pm PT
We woke up to snowing and blowing again this morning. We pushed our wake up/ departure time back a couple of hours and the weather cleared up nicely for us. Although leaving early is a bit colder, it keeps us off the glacier when it heats up and it gets us into camp early. We arrived at
14,200' camp around 11:45 this morning and got the pick of the litter for already dug out camps. Since many of the other teams that were stacked up because of the weather headed up to 17k today, camps with big snow walls were in abundance. With a little bit of prep we got a great camp set up. We just finished some tortellini with salmon...roughing it. Thanks
RMI, the food has been great on this trip!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
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Congratulations team. I was so intent on getting my post climb comma sleep I did not get to say a proper good by to you all. It was a pleasure climbing with all of you. Truly an inspiring group of folks to climb with. There was never a doubt that this entire team was going to make it “up top”. Thank you all for your inspiration. Thank you Scott for the post climb refreshment drink. Thank you Mike, Josh, and my rope team leader JM for taking such great care of us.
PS: I did wake up from my 10 hour comma sleep and thought, yes, I want to do this again!
Posted by: David Fruin on 7/12/2014 at 7:58 am
Helen and Roger, I hope you are having the time of your life. I’ve been thinking about you and praying for your safety. Stay warm and I am sure you are enjoying the beautiful view. Hugs to you both!!!
Posted by: Vickie Davis on 7/12/2014 at 5:50 am
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