Entries By jess matthews

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, May 28th - 10:47 pm PST We had a busy day of nothing. After three big days of moving a lot of gear, it was a perfect day to rest, nap, and take care of sore feet. We had a pleasant pancake brunch, then retired to the tents for naps, movies, and reading. We got out to move a bit this afternoon and refresh our climbing skills, then took that into dinner, and off to bed. Rest days are exhausting after all. Tomorrow we'll get back to work and carry a load of food and gear to 13,500' or so. All for now, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer , Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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HI Rich

Cannot get enough of the beautiful shots…hope your cold has left you by now and you are feeling healthy and ready to get this done!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:21 pm

Ah yes, “rest” days!! I hope the sore feet (Caleb??) are healing, and that the good weather continues. Happy Birthday to Henry June 2nd - you must be “The Old Man of the Mountain” these days?! Love, Mom xxxx

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2018 at 10:30 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Find New Home at 11,000’

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST It was a perfect day to cruise up to 11K Camp and find a new home. Where most of yesterday was dead calm and pretty warm with strong sun, we had a light but really cold breeze running through camp in the morning. It died right before we started walking and suddenly we were cooking in the solar oven. Just as we were about to explode into flames, the breeze came back, from straight ahead, and we went the direction of ice cubes. We dug quickly into our mountains of clothing and were back in comfort land. Having previewed the terrain yesterday, today was a breeze, and we cruised into camp like a hot egg salad. Now we are nicely installed in our new home for the next few days. It's snowing lightly, and beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Everyone is healthy and psyched. Tomorrow, we chill, then we will keep looking upward. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Seriously took me a minute to find the right blog!

You guys are all smiling and climbing - I know you must be excited for the climb ahead.
Have fun and enjoy every minute!

Love you Rich

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:25 pm

Checking in again. So happy to see the progress. It’s time for Steve to come home… the bachelorette season has started and I know how much he loves the show !! ;)
I’m loving all of the pictures.
Sending my love and best wishes to everyone.
Stay safe,
Misty

Posted by: Misty on 5/28/2018 at 11:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 11K Camp

May 27, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

We had another great day on the lower Kahiltna. Our goal was to carry a load of food and fuel to around 10,200', just shy of 11K Camp. We had a sneaking hope that we might move well enough and everyone would feel good enough to carry the load all the way to 11,000', eliminating the need for a back carry. After 3 good stretches of walking, we were just below the usual cache site with plenty of time to spare and everyone in good spirits, so we decided to push on. It was a great effort by the whole group, and now most of our food is waiting for us at our next camp. Tomorrow we'll pack up camp at the bottom of Ski Hill and make the move to 11, where the cycle will continue. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Way to push through! Sounds like a strong team!
Love you and stay safe Rich

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:27 pm

Go Magnus! Awesome to read that you are on your way. Thinking of you every day. Can´t even imagine what you are doing.

Don´t forget…Safety first!

Sending you lots of strength, some Swedish “pannben” and hope you and the team will take you all the way up to the top.

Anna-Carin

Posted by: Anna-Carin on 5/30/2018 at 8:04 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Settle in to Mountain Routine

May 26, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,800'

We finally made some big moves! Weather was perfect this morning, so we ate our first mountain breakfast and worked on getting our ropes, sleds, and packs rigged for travel. The first morning always takes a bit, between organizing things for the first time, breaking down camp, and all of the other chores like digging cache that have to get done. By noon we were walking, and from there, things couldn't have gone more smoothly. We made excellent time, rolling in to camp with tons of daylight left. We move into a nice camp that had been left, retrofitted it a bit, and then settled in to the mountain routine: making water, dinner, and then more water. Our goal is to cache a load of food and fuel higher up tomorrow, probably just below 11,000', putting us in place to move camp up there the next day. We'll let you know how it goes! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team

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Go John Go! Go Raj Go! Hope you can feel the Pom Poms

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 5/27/2018 at 4:34 pm

Magnus! Awesome to read that you are on your way and that the weather is on your side!
Sending you lots of strength and hope you and the team will take you all the way up to the top.
Be safe and know we are following your progress! Björn reminds you! In Sweden blue skies and +25C every day :)

The plant team in Billes!

Posted by: Anne on 5/27/2018 at 5:09 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Arrive Kahiltna Base Camp on Second Attempt

May 25, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,300'

It took us an extra try, but ultimately our patience prevailed and the very talented pilots of K2 Aviation were able to thread us through some funky clouds and get us in to Kahiltna Base Camp. We made our first run at 12:30 PM and made it almost all the way before a bank of fog turned us back. We landed back in Talkeetna to heavy rain, took off our boots, and settled back in to our waiting game. Then at 5 PM there seemed to be a break and we got the green light. The flight in was spectacular as always, flying right through the rugged peaks and walls of the Alaska Range. Since we weren't in until evening, we decided to put up camp, make dinner, and spend the night here. Tomorrow we will hopefully have the conditions to move our camp and all of our gear to our Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill. We are happily tucked into sleeping bags for our first night on the mountain, glad to finally be here! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Weather Window to Fly On

May 24, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories:

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, May 23, 2018 Well, we have checked all of our boxes to take off, but we weren't able to track down flyable weather to get us in to Base Camp on Denali. Fog rolled in first thing this morning on the glacier landing strip, and we spent the day on standby, waiting for it to clear. Instead, moisture continued to stream into the Alaska range, and rain came off and on to Talkeetna. With a lot of daylight up here this time of year, our flying window is long, and we stuck it out until 8pm, when we finally accepted another night in town and checked into the hotel again. What do you do on a standby day in Talkeetna? Nap in the hanger, download more movies, chat, and explore the curio shops on Main Street, ready to drop everything and run back to the hanger at a moment's notice should things clear. All of that is punctuated by frequent trips to the coffee shop. We'll enjoy another night in a bed and wake up tomorrow to see what the weather gives us. This is the game that we are playing in Alaska! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Looking at my Brad Washburn photo of Denali, and thinking of you all up on the Kahiltna Glacier - good luck to everyone - and special love to Henry and Caleb!

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/26/2018 at 11:51 am

Thinking of you Danny…. everyday. Praying for all of you! I m sure this will be one amazing experience!

Posted by: Ken and Beckie Ruggles on 5/25/2018 at 9:54 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep in Talkeenta

May 22, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 348'

Our day in Talkeenta progressed at a pretty leisurely pace. We started off with our orientation at the National Park Service after a visit to the coffee shop, and followed that with brunch at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, lest old traditions fail. Then it was into gear: double checking everything we brought, sorting, and packing for the plane flight to Kahiltna Base Camp. With our bags weighed and stacked, ready to be loaded into the Otters, we have done all we can do. It's in the hands of the pilots and weather now. We will head out to town for dinner, and hope to wake up to clear skies and flying weather! We'll keep you posted, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Enjoy your adventure Danny! Can’t wait for you to return home so we can hear all about it. Stay safe!

Posted by: Sheryl & Kevin Burford on 5/29/2018 at 7:41 pm

Be safe, no heroics, know your limits always in control and be wirin yourself.

Tdp

Posted by: Tim pettit on 5/25/2018 at 8:25 pm

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Aconcagua: King & Team Arrive Back at Base Camp, Will Have One Last Night on the Trail

January 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 9,000'

The team woke to cold and snowy conditions at High Camp...normal Aconcagua conditions, just not what we experienced this expedition. We had some gear to pick up at our previous camps, but finally got down to base camp for some much earned beverages and a delicious dinner. We will walk to Leñas, our first trek campsite for the infamous asado...Chapstick application is key to enjoying the grilled carne after being in the Alta Montana for the last two weeks. The moon is newer then our trek in so the stars/Milky Way dust will be in full effect, my favorite place to sleep under the stars. This is our final dispatch of the trip, thanks for the comments. Get down to Leñas next climbing season for the best steak this side of the Galaxy and a bid at the highest peak in South America! RMI Guides Mike King, Jess Matthews & Nick Scott

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Thank you Mike, Jess and Nick, for all the post. It really is a comfort to hear about the group and daily postings. I must admit hearing about high temperatures and snow was hard to grasp at first.
Great to hear they had reached the top and now to hear they will be on their way home. Thank you for leading this group to safety.

Posted by: Donna Bernier on 1/14/2018 at 8:44 am

Congratulations team! You have so much to be proud of. Enjoy the well deserved showers and food. Safe travels home brother Dave love Jul

Posted by: Julie Beckner on 1/14/2018 at 8:29 am

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Aconcagua: King & Team Reach the Summit!

January 12, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 22,841'

Update from Mike King at 10:30 am PT: If you haven't listened to my hypoxic voicemail from today, you should know that we stood on top of Aconcagua, 22,841' around 1pm local time. The climbers are back in camp trying to avoid these late afternoon snow/heat waves...ya doesn't sound fun does it? The climb had wind, snow, heat, drifted snow in the trail and lots of other parties attempting the summit. I'll leave the details from the summit day for your loved ones to tell...but the guides are in agreement, one of the harder days we've had in the mountains. Tomorrow we will start our downward retreat to the thick air of base camp. Summit call transcription: Hey, this is Mike with the RMI Aconcagua Team. We are standing on top of Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya. The team did well, we had a really cold morning, probably about 25 mph winds in the face for the first several hours. Now we are sitting up here, we could be in jeans shorts and tank tops. The team did well and we're going to hang out here and take some photos. Then we still have to descend. We will call in or send a dispatch once everyone is safe back at camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone sends their best. RMI Guide Mike King

RMI Guide Mike King calls from the summit of Aconcagua.

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Congratulations everyone!! Sounds like it was a tough final push to the summit. Can’t wait to hear all about it Katja! Be careful on the descent.

- Wilton

Posted by: Wilton Farmwald on 1/14/2018 at 5:35 pm

Congrats everyone!!! What an accomplishment.

Posted by: Adam and Candice on 1/14/2018 at 8:19 am

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Aconcagua: King & Team Move to High Camp

January 11, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

Well, we pulled the trigger and moved to Cholera located at 19,600'. We decided to skip a rest day in exchange for 2 'active' rest days. The Team moved up with the bear necessities to establish camp and summit Aconcagua! We were on our feet for only three hours so the remainder of the day has been R&R. This morning was the coldest of the trip with beautiful clear skies and a 10-15 WNW wind that kept us cooler then yesterday's sweat locker. Other teams have been coming down from the summit so the track is kicked in which will make for great climbing. Everyone is doing great, some nervous energy but that is to be expected the day before attempting the highest mountain outside the Himalaya. We are about ready to feast on hot summer sausage cheese quesadillas and soup before doing a little pre-packing and talking summit day expectations and plan of action. Hopefully we will be calling in from the summit tomorrow. The Team is getting their final pep talk from your blog comments tonight, thanks for the encouraging words and being apart of this wonderful expedition with such a stellar crew! RMI Guide Mike King

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Congratulations Virgil what a great climb. What aw inspiring Beauty. See you back at sea level.

Posted by: Len currier on 1/16/2018 at 5:09 am

Wonderful news. Enjoy that summit viewing, Dave, I am so happy for you and for all the things you have accomplished and the new ones to come. Donna

Posted by: Donna Bernier on 1/12/2018 at 10:32 am

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Entries By jess matthews

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Find New Home at 11,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 11K Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Settle in to Mountain Routine

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Arrive Kahiltna Base Camp on Second Attempt

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Weather Window to Fly On

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep in Talkeenta

Aconcagua: King & Team Arrive Back at Base Camp, Will Have One Last Night on the Trail

Aconcagua: King & Team Reach the Summit!

On The Map

Aconcagua: King & Team Move to High Camp

On The Map

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