Entries By jake beren
August 18, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren, Ben Liken
Categories:
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon. RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT. We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
August 14, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Jake Beren and Christina Dale led their teams to the summit of
Mt. Rainier this morning. Both teams reported clear skies and warm temperatures with great climbing conditions. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:45 am PT. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
August 4, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
With a squirrelly forecast our team of intrepid explorers launched into the mist surrounding
Mt Baker just three days ago. Hiking through the forest and meadows before stepping onto the glacier gave us a pleasant warm up for the climb to come. Establishing camp on the Coleman Glacier just before the rain began was a welcome bonus.
The rain persisted through the evening and we were happy to be snug in our tents. Waking up early wasn't that encouraging and we hit the snooze button for a few hours, waiting for the weather deities to smile upon us. Smile they did at a perfectly reasonable 7:30 am. Off we went to improving skies and an excellent route.
We found excellent conditions and a perfect day in the mountains. As far as climbing Mt. Baker that day, we felt most lucky indeed. Good job team!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
August 1, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
A fine adventure was had by all on this Mt. Shuksan Climb! Our team chose the
Fisher Chimneys route and all that it had to offer. This route is fantastic for the variety of conditions it offers, from snow and ice to technical rock and a truly stunning approach via the absurdly picturesque Lake Ann.
We found the mountain to be in perfect shape, with smooth glacier travel and few other climbers on our route. As we made our attempt on the summit, we connected with climbers from the Sulphide Glacier route at the summit pyramid. There's plenty of room for everyone on that mountain and though it was a little busy, we somehow had the summit all to ourselves!
It was a fantastic three days in a crazily beautiful place, shared with a fun team. Peter and Ann rocked and we had a great time learning how to move through the mountains. Thanks everyone!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
July 30, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of
Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route this morning around 10 am PT. Jake reported clear skies with a light layer of clouds below and light winds. The team enjoyed some time on the summit today all on their own, although the route was busy they were on the summit alone. The team safely returned to high camp where they will spend their final night of the trip. Tomorrow morning they will hike out to the trail head.
Congratulations to today's Mt. Shuksan Team!
July 25, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Mt. Baker did not fail to impress our small team this week! We set out from Glacier, WA to make an attempt on
Mt. Baker's mighty North Ridge. Our approach put us at camp at the toe of the Coleman Glacier where we reviewed relevant climbing techniques and relaxed ourselves to sleep.
We awoke under the full moon and set out at dusk to begin the climb. A few hours of casual glacier travel found us at the base of the route. The forbidding clouds to the west stood down and we began our ascent. We gained the ridge and with some steep snow climbing and we were in business! Soon it was time to get into the meat of the route, the ice pitches. Under the snice (snow+ice) there was quality ice, so it didn't take too much excavation to find good placements for our tools. As we topped out the ice pitches the clouds returned and soon we were relying on instruments to find the top. After a bit of thought-provoking route finding we navigated the jumbled glacier that guards the cumbre (summit) and celebrated efficiently before descending the Coleman route back to camp.
It was a great day with good company - all you can ask for in the mountains! Standing on top doesn't hurt either.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren and the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz route.
Jake reported clear skies on the summit. The team will spend some time on the summit before making their descent. The team will spend one more night on the mountain before descending off the mountain tomorrow.
Way to climb!
July 6, 2016
Posted by: Jake Beren, Paul Rachele
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by
RMI Guides Jake Beren and Paul Rachele reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Jake reported a "super beautiful" day with light winds, and a cloud layer at about 8,000'. The teams have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
July 2, 2016
Posted by: Paul Maier, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The summit climbs, led by
Jake Beren and
Paul Maier, successfully summitted
Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams began their decent at 7:45 AM, reporting clouds above and below them.
June 18, 2016 - 7:18 pm PT
It was anyone's guess how today would turn out based on the snow piling up on our tents this morning. We dragged our feet a little before downing a cup of coffee and packing up our camp. We pushed down the glacier in a near whiteout, unsure if any planes would venture into the Alaska Range today. After a great trip the team was ready to head home, but we had to still wait and see what
Denali had in store for us. As we descended, the visibility improved and it began to look like some fancy flying might just get us to a shower after all. The weather continued to cooperate and it wasn't long before the awesome pilots at K2 had us back in the land of green forests, running water and options for food. And like that we left the Range after a few great weeks with our teammates.
It was an exceptional adventure, made great by the team who shared the effort to make it happen. Thanks to all involved for making it happen and we will all be home soon!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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One year from a septuagenarian and never having participated in snow activities probably is not the most propitious period to start mountaineering, especially on Mt. Rainier. It was Theodore Roosevelt, though, who said, “... Far better is it to dare mighty things, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.”
Being in good physical conditioning and active all my life I decided to follow Teddy’s advice. I made it to Ingraham Flats and realized appropriately that my slower pace was a deterrent to team members’ having a successful climb. No regrets from me, though. I met wonderful professional guides who were patient and indulgent with me throughout the climb.
I am proud of those individuals who summited. I also take particular pride in cultivating a friendship with young 18 year old Kyle who impressed me deeply with his poise, maturity beyond his years, self-discipline, physical ability and love of his family of whom he spoke proudly. Go through life Kyle, spreading your wings and soaring as high as you dare to achieve mighty things as Teddy most assuredly would say to you.
RMI is a professionally run company. Its professional staffs are highly skilled mountaineers who place a premium on customer safety. While safety is their number one priority the professional guides establish prudent parameters for customers to maximize available opportunities to apply their skills for a truly memorable and amazing experience.
With Kindest of Regards,
Jerry W Doyle
Posted by: Jerry W Doyle on 8/20/2016 at 2:58 pm
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