Entries By jake beren

Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

April 10, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain. We've moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We'll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We'll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.

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JAKE!!!!!

Posted by: Mike Poutiatine on 4/10/2014 at 9:59 pm

Daily I am wearing a Tibetan-sourced St. Christopher-like disc to keep you all well and energized for the climbs ahead. These postings mean the world to me—keep them coming and POWER ON.

Posted by: nsb on 4/10/2014 at 4:56 pm

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Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

April 2, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now. We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Start by Meeting with Ms. Hawley, the Bookkeeper

March 27, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Namaste! The 2014 Dhaulagiri team has reunited in Kathmandu after the three waves in which all of us arrived. With the last minute of extra food shopping done, we had the mandatory briefing at the ministry of tourism this morning and paid a special visit to Ms. Hawley, the "bookkeeper" of Himalayan climbing. She helped us understand this endeavor even better with some statistics pertinent to our team: among our nationalities, only 14 Americans (2 women) and 28 Spaniards have summited on this mountain with just 300 total ascents. Really exciting! Tomorrow we fly early morning to Pokhara, and then a six-hour drive will take us to Darbang. This is the trailhead to our week-long approach to base camp. We'll check in next from the trails! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Aconcagua: Beren and Team Return to Pampa de Llenas

January 7, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 9,000'

After leaving Base Camp yesterday we made the long trek back to Pampa de Llenas where the length of this journey began to sink in. Many miles of beautiful walking brought us back to our first camp where we were treated to an asado courtesy of our herreros. Grilling over an open fire under the Andean sky we really put the trip to bed in style. Getting to visit with the incoming RMI crew was fun, seeing all those clean faces and knowing that we were just a few hours from a shower ourselves. Thanks to a wonderful crew for a great trip and can't wait to see everyone in the mountains soon! Jake Beren & Team

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Enjoy the rest of your journey team Be safe & what an accomplishment

Posted by: Lise on 1/8/2014 at 7:00 am

The skill of a great pilot is proven only when the plane lands its passengers safely back on the runway. Same with mountain guides.

Nice job Steve and team. It is what guiding is all about!

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/8/2014 at 6:03 am

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Descend to Plaza Argentina

January 5, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

Waking once the sun began to warm the tents was a welcome treat at 19,600 feet. Having that last cup of coffee in the rarified air of high camp before packing up and starting the beautiful and lengthy descent really let the last few weeks settle in. We have climbed on the highest mountain outside of Asia and now turn the skiff towards home. It is this point of the trip where we get to see how far out we've gone because there is no more out to go, just back. Retracing our steps back home will take a few days and is a wonderful way to let this adventure sink in. See you all soon! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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To Bill and the team - what an amazing accomplishment! This is something to remember for the rest of your lives..Congratulations and safe travels onward..
Carol (Rita, and Bill)

Posted by: Carol on 1/6/2014 at 12:07 pm

Great job, to the team and to my friend Monica. I can’t begin to understand how amazing that accomplishment must feel. Have a great trek down the mountain and stay safe! Ivory

Posted by: Ivory on 1/6/2014 at 11:33 am

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Recap Summit Day

January 5, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

Lying in the tent, legs sore but oddly relaxed, it seems hard to believe that we climbed Aconcagua today. This morning we launched before dawn, making our way higher and higher into the troposphere as the rising sun cast a shadow of our mountain deep into the Andes. Everyone on the team got a chance to test their limits today and I'm proud of everyone's effort. It takes a few weeks to get to where you can try to stand on top and everyone's hard work really paid off with a safe day in the mountains. Good work team and thanks to all the wonderful people back home for their support. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Good Job Bill Dorn!!!

Posted by: Marshall Woodford on 1/6/2014 at 11:32 am

You guys are great. Thanks to the guides for getting everybody up there. Bill is coming home soon… I guess I have to start cleaning the house again.

Posted by: Norm Vork on 1/5/2014 at 6:51 pm

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Summit!

January 4, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 22,841'

Greetings from Camp 3 on Aconcagua. Our team just returned after a successful summit bid with some happy and tired faces. We are looking forward to a little bit of dinner and some much needed rest before we start heading down, down, down tomorrow. All is well out here. Thanks for all the good wishes back home and we'll talk to you guys further on down the trail. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Jake Beren calls in after the team's successful summit.

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Bravo! Bravissimo! A glorious day’s work. Rest up and have a safe descent.

Posted by: nsb on 1/5/2014 at 12:01 pm

Monica and team, congratulations on the successful summit!! So happy for you all! Safe descent, see you soon!

Posted by: Leslie M on 1/5/2014 at 11:10 am

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Make Their Move to High Camp

January 3, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

Greetings from high camp at 19,600 ft! Today we made use of a good forecast and the first break in the wind in recent memory to move up. Now we are in striking distance of the top, getting ready for dinner before an early bedtime. The team again performed well getting here and if this calm weather holds, we will go for the top tomorrow! We've enjoyed everyone's comments and the crew is in great spirits having put forth an impressive effort so far. With any luck we will only head uphill for one more day before starting the long return to Mendoza. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Go, Bill, Go. Amazing. Can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Sylvia Stanley on 1/4/2014 at 7:30 pm

Go for it Bill. Good luck

Posted by: steve on 1/4/2014 at 7:19 pm

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Aconcagua: Beren and Team Rest Day at Guanacos (Camp 2)

January 2, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

Holá from 18,000 ft above the sea! We spent a windy evening up here last night, but so far camp is holding tight. With any luck this weather pattern will relax by tomorrow and we will be in solid shape to move higher! Today we are going to review some crampon and ice axe techniques before lunch and then take a little stroll post meal. Then more resting to be prepared for a few big days coming up. The team is doing great, and now we just need a few good weather days to make our move to Camp 3 and then shoot for the top. For now we wait for the wind to relax and head up when the mountain lets us. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

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Just got 15 inches of snow over night. Temps in the low teens. Probably much better where you are.

Scenery looks beautiful up top there. Hope the weather cooperates for a good summit attempt.

Hike well and be safe.

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/3/2014 at 10:10 am

George,

Glad to hear that all is well. We head to Asheville tomorrow to eat dinner with Barry and the family. After dinner, we are off to a Charlotte hotel to get a little sleep before an early flight to Pasadena. With a little luck, we will have a double celebration on Monday—Your triumphal summit and a BCS trophy with Auburn’s name on it. War Eagle!

Posted by: Carolyn Crandell on 1/2/2014 at 11:26 pm

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Move to Camp 2

January 1, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

Holá amigos! We awoke to clear skies and moderate winds again as we had a leisurely morning preparing for our move to Camp 2 (18,000ft). The team did great navigating gusty winds and heavy packs to push into Camp 2 in phenomenal style. With camp all established, we'll enjoy a short siesta before firing stoves, eating dinner and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow! All the best from Aconcagua. RMI Guide Steve Gately

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Happy New Year Beng Hoe. It is so cool being able to follow the expedition through the blog. All the more so as we are able to see you in the a number of the photos, even if it is the back of your head! It is so beautiful out there. It must be amazing to be spending New Year up there. Miss you. Helen, Laura and Andrew

Posted by: Helen Lim on 1/2/2014 at 8:45 pm

Hey Steve and team,

I’ll trade you some of your heat for the 18 inches of snow and sub zero wind chills we’re expecting in Boston over the next 24 hours!

Hike well and be safe.

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/2/2014 at 3:57 am

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Entries By jake beren

Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Start by Meeting with Ms. Hawley, the Bookkeeper

Aconcagua: Beren and Team Return to Pampa de Llenas

Aconcagua: Beren & Team Descend to Plaza Argentina

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Recap Summit Day

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Summit!

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Make Their Move to High Camp

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Aconcagua: Beren and Team Rest Day at Guanacos (Camp 2)

Aconcagua: Beren & Team Move to Camp 2

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