"By far the best of the year" was RMI Guide Brent Okita's description of today's weather on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent led the Four Day Summit Climb July 29 - 1 August to the top this morning. RMI Guide Eric Frank led the Five Day Summit Climb July 28 - 1 August to Rainier's summit with 100% of his team. Both teams reported warm temperatures with just a whisper of wind. They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen led the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz Glacier. The team spent the week training at Rainier BaseCamp and on the mountain. This morning they packed up their camp at 13,000' atop Wapowty Cleaver and reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will descend via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. This marks the 100th summit of Mt. Rainier for RMI Guide Mike Haugen. Congratulations Mike!
RMI Guide Jake Beren called to check-in from Mt. Shuksan. The team is back at camp after being 100% on top today. Jake reported that the route is “near perfect” with an amazing sunrise, views of Mt. Baker and the surrounding Cascades. They ascended the central gulleys of the summit pyramid and stood on top with windless, sunny conditions. The team had a great descent, rolling in to camp at the same time as the fog. They are back at camp hydrating and resting before hiking out tomorrow.
We look forward to seeing all the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
Congrats Lindella and team. We are so proud of you!Mom and Dad
Posted by: Linda Smith on 8/4/2012 at 9:20 am
Congrats to Mike on 100!! I was there on the summit with him and our team had an incredible climb together. Thank you to our amazing guides and to my fellow climbers for a great four days on the mountain.
The Four Day Summit Climbs for July 16 - 19 reached the summit today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral reported clear skies and moderate winds on the summit this morning.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz to the summit also. The team will descend back to their high camp for a final night on the mountain.
In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Eric Frank and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak yesterday. The team is making their final descending today and returning to the trail head. Near by, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the SE Ridge.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
It is a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. The Five Day Summit Climb July 7 - 11 led by Eric Frank and the Four Day Summit Climb July 8 - 11 led by Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reached the crater rim around 7:30 a.m. They reported clear skies, great conditions and winds ranging from 0 to none.
The Five Day Kautz Climb is descending to Paradise this morning. Their entire team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday morning.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
SO VERY EXCITED TO JUST READ THE NEWS!! WE ARE BOTH VERY PROUD OF OUR SON, MATTHEW AND HIS FIANCE, ELLA!! CONGRATULATIONS TO EVERYONE IN THE GROUP, AND A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO THE GUIDES FOR LEADING THE ENTIRE BUNCH SAFELY UP ...AND BACK DOWN!! NOW GO AND CELEBRATE!
Posted by: BRENDA & LOTHAR on 7/11/2012 at 10:12 am
Congrats to Scott, Alex and the rest of the team. What a huge accomplishment! Looking forward to hearing all about your adventure. Safe travels back to civilization.
love, Michelle and the entire clan
Posted by: Michelle Rico Wilsdon on 7/11/2012 at 9:53 am
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Eric Frank reached 12,600' before turning around due to avalanche hazard. It is a beautiful day on the mountain with light winds and clear skies. The cold temperatures from overnight are dimenishing with the sunshine. The team will be making their way back to Camp Muir after the guides spend some time working on the route. RMI Guide Tyler Reid said it was a difficult decision to turn the climb on such a beautiful day, however, conditions on the mountain were not safe enough for them to continue.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Seth Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! The team enjoyed a beautiful day on the mountain. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. They may do some additional training tomorrow morning before returning to the trail head.
Congratulations to today's team and Happy Independence Day!
Congratulations to the entire team. Paul we are so proud of you!! Stay safe. Love you!
Posted by: denise heinen on 7/5/2012 at 11:07 am
Woohoo! Congrats, Joe and Will! At least, I THINK I see you in the group there, somewhere… Hard to tell under the parkas! Nice work- I’m so proud of you both.
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Eric Frank reached the top of Cathedral Gap today, but strong winds and heavy precipitation forced them to turn back. The teams have left Camp Muir and we expect the back at Ashford Basecamp in the early afternoon.
The day is coming to a close and things are back the way they were at the start of the trip. Our tents are laying here and our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air. It's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
Thank you for all of your continued support as we took on Denali successfully. I realize how much it took both on the mountain and at home. Again, thank you. The amateur summiteer.
Thanks to all who continue to support my crazy adventures!! Your positive vibes and supportive thoughts mean more than you'll ever know! I return from the highest peak in North America simultaneously proud and humbled!! Michael C
Thanks to my family and friends and especially my wonderful wife Megan for supporting me in this adventure. It is difficult to describe the feeling of humbleness inspired by the the grandeur, majesty and (not least of all) weather of the Alaska Range. The seasoned judgment of TJ, Eric and Logan truly kept us alive and (mostly) comfortable. I cannot thank them enough. MJB
Thanks to all the friends and family for the awesome support! Despite the fact I was unable to make the summit the trip was amazing and will certainly be unforgettable. Much appreciation goes to the best guides anywhere for their judgement. "climbing mountains ain't easy"... The mountain won this time but I'll be back again! CPL
Thanks to all my family, friends, and business associate for supporting my " habit". The summit of North America is an amazing place. Our RMI guides are the best - Tyler, Eric and Logan !!!!
LWS
Belle expedition. Merci RMI. Merci a tous pour vos blog.
N
Now that the day is coming to a close, things are looking eerily similar to the way they did before we left. Tents and gear have been dried. Gear is slightly dirtier, but once again prepared for air travel. It would seem to the unknowing observer, that nothing has happened other than a few mild sunburns.
As the warm rain arrives in Talkeetna, the group runs for cover indoors. It's nice to be dry when it rains and warm when it's cold outside without to much effort. That said, there was something nice about even the coldest days on the mountain. As guides, we hope out clients feel the same way. Like proud parents, we have enjoyed the time we spent with the team as they grew. We have seen the group grow together and grow as individuals. We hope that this growth will have some relevance even in the dry and warm front country.
Thanks to our clients for their time, energy, patience and passion. The guide team hopes to work together and with members of our 2012 Denali trip soon. Weather this trip was the first big expedition or the last, we hope team members will keep trying new things, keep climbing mountains, or at least stay in touch.
The summit was great, but the team was better. Thanks guys,
RMI GuidesTyler Jones, Eric Frank and Logan Randolph
The word "team" is what we are; the confidence and style this team has possessed has been outstanding. Team Jones/Frank/Randolph is excited to be in base camp on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
We woke up a number of times through last night to gusty winds and white-out conditions at 11k camp. The guides choice was to wait the weather out. Denali was again giving our group another challenge. The team solved this one with some rest and a long pancake breakfast.
An afternoon clearing provided motivation for an evening walk, our final walk that provided everything from blowing snow to pristine clear skies. The sunset reeled us in toward the north face of Mt. Hunter lit in the soft evening light completing our final push to Kahiltna Basecamp at 7,800 ft.
While conditions look prime at base camp and it looks like we will fly out tomorrow, we don't want to count our chickens before they hatch. You never know what Denali, or as we have called her "De-Gnarly," has in store for us.
Laying here in our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air, it's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
The crew is ready to celebrate our safe and successful summit with the loved ones that allowed us to be in Alaska for this journey. Thank you family and friends for the support. This journey to the top of North America and back has been a long and never to be forgotten experience. We look forward to recalling our time spent in the mountains with a dinner out wearing sandals and shorts along with being back on turf with trees, rivers, and just plain dirt in Talkeetna.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Congratulations JB and team for the strong and safe summit of Denali! Your friends here at AMC are anxious to here the details and wish you good weather for the flight off.
Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 12:42 pm
That was a fast descent.Thank you Tyler, Eric and Logan for bringing everybody back down Denali in good spirit and shape!
À bientôt Nicolas!
We awoke today to subzero temperatures at 17k camp and are now enjoying the thick air at 11k camp. After a quick breakfast, the team packed their belongings and headed downward. Despite some fatigue from our successful summit bid yesterday, the team safely negotiated the descent to 14k camp. There, the team was met by another RMI team. Jake Beren and team topped off our bottles with water and our stomachs with warm quesadillas. After this hour long break we headed down to 11k camp.
While the air was thick and warm, Denali was quick to remind us that we aren't out of the woods yet. While snow fell and wind blew around us we consolidated our left over meats and cheeses for a quesadilla smorgasbord. We enjoyed these tasty morsels until we were full, then ate some more. Then we had dessert.
We are now snuggled into our sleeping bags, staying warm and hoping to fly out tomorrow. While we are all set to walk to the runway, the weather is not ripe for a speedy flight to Talkeetna. We are still at the mercy of the big one, Denali.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Today was our time to shine; it was our 16th day on the glaciers of Denali and our opportunity to take a shot at the top of North America. Early sun on the tent at high camp, coupled with the solstice less than a week away had the guides up starting the stoves by 7:30am. With the winds moderate and temps near -15F we stalled our departure for the summit bid until 9:45am with the thought of summiting during Alaska's peak heat of late afternoon. The wind and cold had us in full equipment. We wore face masks, goggles, mittens and climbed in our heavy weight parkas a good portion of the climb.
The guides stressed many times of the importance of self care and the critical nature of getting frostnip or frostbite. All of us had cold hands, feet, and faces a number of times throughout the day, but all of us took responsibility for keeping close eyes on each other and managed to keep the cold injuries at bay.
The climb took our team 7 1/2 hours to reach the summit. Our time plan was perfect as the summit provided some the the lightest winds of the day allowing us to spend just over thirty minutes on the summit expressing emotion, embracing our team mates, and snapping photos of an unforgettable 360 degree view of central Alaska. Given the conditions our team made great time, though we all had to dig deep in our reserves to make an uneventful descent back in our high camp- 11 hours after our departure. Hot drinks, a warm meal and memories from our summit push ended the evening with high stoke and excitement to get down and reunite with our friend, families and loved ones. Every member of the team would like to thank all of you for your support, love, and compassion in letting us fulfill a dream.
Tomorrow we plan to disassemble our high camp and move down the picturesque West Buttress. We will be recovering our cache at 14k and, if weather and energy allow, a descent to 11k for a well deserved rest in what now has become the low country. We look forward to the thick air.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Eric Frank & Logan Randolph
Congratulations Team!!! i know it must feel terrific to view 360 degrees from the summit! Can’t imagine the rush! Michael, we look forward to hearing all about it. Mom & Dad
Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/17/2012 at 4:45 pm
I am super psyched for you guys. You kick ass Larry!
Hey everyone,
It's Tyler and team on the summit of Denali. Pretty nice weather, little bit of breeze and quite a cold day. Everybody is in good shape. We are going to spend a few minutes on top taking some pictures and then we will be headed back down to high camp and we'll let you know when we get back.
Thanks for all your support. Talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
RMI Guide Tyler Jones calls from the summit of Denali.
Congrats Lindella and team. We are so proud of you!Mom and Dad
Posted by: Linda Smith on 8/4/2012 at 9:20 am
Congrats to Mike on 100!! I was there on the summit with him and our team had an incredible climb together. Thank you to our amazing guides and to my fellow climbers for a great four days on the mountain.
Posted by: Cindee Teer on 8/3/2012 at 9:12 pm
View All Comments