Entries By eric frank
Good morning friends and family!
Well we are still in Talkeetna after a long day yesterday of rain. The skies this morning, while not raining, remain a canvas of clouds. Today we will continue ground training with mechanical advantage systems, remaining close to the planes if we get a break.
Weather looks good on Thursday and honestly, we are having a great time here!
RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team
It is often said that to be an expedition climber, you must learn patience. Today was an exercise in just that. Early this morning as we walked empty streets from the roadhouse to the K2 Hangar, clouds hung in what was once clear skies. On the southeast fork of the Kahiltna, those clouds would prevent pilots from landing at base camp. Still, we worked hard at packing for an early afternoon flight and as our departure time came and went, we spent the day training on the K2 front lawn. Knots were learned exhaustively, tents set up and tonight we will gather for another night of stories and laughter. Spirits are strong and tomorrow is another day!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
When the team met this afternoon at the Anchorage Airport, it was impossible to ignore the weather here. From soggy Seattle or the still frozen north, here in Alaska it's sandals and shorts weather. Our team is assembled and now in Talkeetna slapping mosquitoes and laughing with new friends and teammates. Tomorrow we will pack, prepare, and hopefully fly onto the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Before bedding down we paused to raise a glass to the upcoming adventure.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
On The Map
Three Core Training Principles
By RMI Guide Eric Frank
Designing a training program to prepare for mountaineering is one of the most important decisions aspiring climbers face. Success or failure is often determined by the type and quality of the training done months before the crampon straps are tightened.
By planning particular elements of the training program in order, fitness can be maximized while the chance of burning out is minimized. Each level of activity leads to the next. It is crucial to start training at least six months in advance of the climb to have enough time to work through a full cycle. While the details will vary between climbers, here are a few core principles to consider:
• First, commit one or two Saturdays each month for long training sessions. This can be difficult in our busy, modern world, but it is important to find the time to go on a five to six hour hike or bike ride. Days in the mountains are rarely less then eight hours, and being accustomed to consistent low-grade output is important. This serves to build base fitness.
• Next, introduce mountaineering specific activities by focusing on the core and legs. Carrying a backpack uphill for hours can be extremely taxing on these muscle groups. Running, core workout and good ol’ hiking with a pack will build them up to the appropriate level. Remember to carry a pack that is similar to the pack weight on the climb. Filling the pack with water is a nice trick. Carry the weight uphill during training, then dump it out before heading downhill to save the knees.
• Finally, add high intensity, full body workouts to the exercise program. On most routes in the mountains, there are places where increased output is required. Whether it is scrambling up a rock step on the Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier, ascending a fixed line on the West Buttress of Denali, or just shoveling snow to make a tent platform, physical strength is crucial. These activities will round out the strength in your shoulders and lower back. A good introductory workout involves body weight calisthenics in a rotation – pushups, crunches, squats, dips, pull-ups and jump rope. Try to do three full cycles with a consistent number of repetitions. The idea is maintain an elevated heart rate and stress different muscle groups in succession. The best part is that is doesn’t require any specialized equipment or facilities.
Finally remember that the best training imitates the route to be climbed. Consider the specific mountain and route to be attempted, research it’s exact difficulties, then tailor a plan which will lead to success.
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Eric Frank is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. He has climbed and guided all over the world, including the Alaska Range and the Himalaya; read about his recent to trip to Shishapangma on the Eddie Bauer Blog. Eric will be leading an RMI Expedition on Mt. McKinley's Upper West Rib next spring.
August 28, 2013
Posted by: Eric Frank, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,400'
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams, August 25 - 28, were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to high winds and precipitation. RMI Guide Eric Frank reported that the teams left Camp Muir before 2 am on their summit attempt but were forced to turn around at 10,400' because of heavy rain and wind. Visibility at Camp Muir was very low and wind continued with gusts estimated at 40 mph. The teams are expected to start their descent from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PT.
We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
Updated 4:11pm PST
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by JJ Justman and Billy Nugent have reached Camp Muir. The guides are making some hot coffee for the crew while they settle in and prepare for their summit attempt tonight. Check out the video JJ sent on their ascent to Camp Muir today!
August 21, 2013
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Lindsay Mann, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb Led By Elias de Andres Martos and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams had warm, clear and calm conditions on the climb. They are currently descending and stopped at 12,700’ feet to do some work on the fixed lines before making their way back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Woohoo!!!!! Congratulations!
Posted by: Starr on 8/22/2013 at 7:14 am
Great Going. Glad for the weather
Posted by: Diane on 8/21/2013 at 10:56 am
August 15, 2013
Posted by: Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four Day Summit Climbs August 12 - 15, 2013 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds and precipitation prevented the teams from climbing. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am where they were safe and warm in the Muir hut. The teams will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos was unable to summit this morning also. They will spend today training on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and complete their program.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp.
July 22, 2013
Posted by: Eric Frank, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 a.m. The teams spent about an hour on top enjoying what Eric describes as the "best morning all summer:" sunny and warm with light winds. The teams will make their descent back to Camp Muir and will return to Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Congratulations to Eric, Lindsey, and the entire team. Great job enjoying the beautiful mountain!
Posted by: Eric Yollick on 7/23/2013 at 3:33 am
Good job getting to the top!
Posted by: Tyler Kirkness on 7/22/2013 at 6:15 pm
Both RMI Forbidden Peak teams reached the summit yesterday! After a leisurely breakfast, they hiked out to the trailhead, sorted gear and bid farewell. A glorious four-day program in the North Cascades!
RMI Guides Jake Beren and Eric Frank
July 12, 2013
Posted by: Jake Beren, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'
Hello everybody. This is Jake calling in from Boston Basin up in the North Cascades checking in after a great day of mountain adventure. Eric Frank wanted to let everybody know that they are working well on Torment-Forbidden Traverse and they were on the top of Torment, I think around noon today. Nice work fellas. Thomas Greene and I are out with James, James and Steve up out on Sharkfin Tower today and heading for the West Ridge tomorrow. So cross your fingers for good weather and we will be checking in tomorrow afternoon. That's it from the Basin.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Jake Beren calls in from the Boston Basin Camp.
Total Bummer Steve and Connor! Saw yesterday’s team did not make it either. Was hoping you would. Guess you will just have to climb again! Take care. Be safe. ~Audrey
Posted by: Audrey on 8/28/2013 at 12:30 pm
Steve and Connor,
I am so sorry that you didn’t make it to the top. Be
safe on the way down. See you when you get home.
Mom @ Nana
Posted by: Darlene Fox on 8/28/2013 at 11:37 am
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