Entries By eric frank

Alpamayo: Frank & Team’s Rest Day

July 5, 2014

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,270'

After four days of hard work, the Alpamayo team is taking a much deserved rest day. Coincidentally, the weather is marginal today and the constant patter of hail pelts our tents as we read or nap. All in all things are good and everyone is happy. We plan to rest for most of the afternoon, then practice some rope skills an get packed before dinner. Happy belated Fourth of July everyone! We are so focused on the tasks at hand, that none of us realized it was the fourth until late in the day yesterday. Signing off from Alapamayo Basecamp. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Cache Gear at 16,200’

July 4, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,270'

Today the Alpamayo team made a big jump and moved a portion of our group gear up to the next camp, Moraine Camp (16,200'). We moved well and were at the cache site by late morning. Despite feeling good, everyone was breathing hard and we were happy to drop back to our basecamp at 14,200'. The food on this trip has been phenomenal. Everyday our cook, Raul, impresses us with his culinary prowess. From veggie omelettes to grilled trout to fresh cut fruit salad every night, we have been eating like kings. I suspect the amazing food has a strong correlation to how good we all feel. All for now. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team

Alpamayo: Frank and Team at Basecamp

July 3, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,270'

Thursday, July 3, 2014 - 3:01 PM PT Howdy, ya'all from Alpamayo Basecamp. Up here at 14,270' the air is a bit harder to breathe, but we are doing well and feeling strong. The hike today was a unique mix of open glacial plains and mossy paths through the woods which remind us of the land of the hobbits. Currently the team is reading or napping in the tents to avoid the intense mid-day sun. We are all performing well and, weather permitting, plan to carry some gear up to a higher camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric,
You’ve spent too much time on the Rio Grande and in Texas, obviously. Now you’re trying to talk like a Texan: “ya’ll”?!
Have fun.
Eric

Posted by: Eric Yollick on 7/3/2014 at 9:05 pm

Glad to get Mike’s call. Sounds like it’s God’s country. Go for it Hobbits! Via con Dios! - Pam

Posted by: Pam Proctor on 7/3/2014 at 5:56 pm

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Alpamayo: Frank & Team Reach Llama Corral

July 3, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 11,580'

The sun is setting, and the sky is a brilliant shade of red as we sit down to dinner. What a day it has been! The scenery during our hike into Llama Corral (11,500') today was nothing short of amazing. Tower cliffs and a mountain stream provided a great backdrop for plants ranging from cactus to meadow flowers. A thoroughly enjoyable walk. Thanks to everyone who is following along. Mike, Scott and RMI Guide Eric Frank

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Acclimate Near Huaraz

July 1, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 10,000'

The Alpamayo team had another great day. Early this morning we caught a bus, along with the Peru - Expedition Skills Seminar, an hour out of town and went for an acclimatization hike to just over 14,000'. The scenery was stunning and sporadic hail from passing clouds added spice to the walk. After a few hours we found ourselves next to an alpine lake at the base of a snow covered face. Incredible! This evening we ventured into the heart of Huaraz to buy a few last minute items, and indulge in locally caught trout on the main plaza. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Guys:
Great photos - keep them coming! And keep safe!
Bill

Posted by: Bill Proctor on 7/2/2014 at 12:11 pm

Hi Mike, Scott and Eric—you guys look happy and ready. We’re praying for great weather and a great climb. We’ll keep following your dispatches. - Pam

Posted by: Pam Proctor on 7/2/2014 at 8:27 am

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Alpamayo: From Oceaside to High Mountains

July 1, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Greetings from South America! This is the RMI Expeditions Alpamayo team making our inaugural check-in from the Peruvian city of Huarez. After spending most of yesterday on planes, the team had a brief layover in Lima last night before catching a shuttle up into the mountains today. With a dinner of Alpaca steaks, we are currently nestling into bed and getting excited about the days to come. RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

Mt. McKinley: RMI Guide Eric Frank’s Final Thoughts

June 19, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 348'

June 19, 2014 - 9:34 am PT As the wheels of our bush plane touched down in Talkeetna last night, my mind breathed a bittersweet sigh of relief. On one hand, we were back in civilization with amazing conveniences, such as flush toilets and food with expiration dates, but the trip had not turned out the way I hoped in previous months of dreaming about it. After taxiing through the airfield, we unpacked the plane and I cataloged the 36 hours of frenzied activity leading up to that point. The weather throughout this trip was challenging. Aside from the first few days traveling up the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we battled ominous and unpredictable forecasts, and lots of marginal weather. The team did a great job of staying positive, always assuming that after the snow ended we would get our break. Day followed day, but the snow didn’t stop. It wasn’t a blizzard by any means, but just bad enough to not be able to move up high and make a summit attempt. Every morning we would get up and either watch snow fall, or see wind howling across the summit plateau. After nine nights at 14,200’ camp we were in a difficult position. We had managed to get a food cache up on the route, just below 16,000’, but the snow was presenting avalanche danger, the forecast hadn’t improved and the days were counting down. The group had a long discussion about schedules and desires, eventually coming to the conclusion that we would split ways. Part of the team would stay, join another RMI team for support and wait for better weather. The other half of us would pack up most of the gear and move downhill toward the runway. Family, friends and work obligations were calling our names. After a 15-hour, 14-mile walk through the night, we made it to the landing strip, caught a plane and found ourselves on terra firma Tuesday night around dinner time. As a guide, these trips are some of the most difficult to manage. The puzzle was one piece from coming together, but it wasn’t meant to be. The frustration was not solely ours. This has been a rough year in the Alaska Range weather-wise. When we flew onto the glacier, the summit success percentage was a depressingly low 16%. It has hardly risen since then. It would seem as though this season has been one of failure, but I prefer to view it differently. As a team, we did everything we could to be ready, the mountain simply said “no.” That doesn’t mean that we didn’t have an enjoyable trip with lots of good memories. Quite the contrary, we had several good weeks together filled with learning and bonding. I am reminded of the very applicable mountain phrase, “The summit is for the ego, but the journey is for the soul.” Final thoughts- To our three climbers- Andy, Jesse, and John. Thanks for arriving fit, ready to climb and with great senses of humor. You guys were a riot to hang out with in the cook tent, and on the rope. I have every confidence that given a decent weather window, you guys could tag the top. Unfortunately, not getting a chance to summit is sometimes part of big mountain climbing. You guys handled it with class and smiles. I hope our paths in the mountains cross many times in the future. To my fellow RMI guide, Geoff Schellens, it is always a pleasure to work with you. Good times, buddy. You are smart, patient and ridiculously strong at altitude. I felt lucky to be up there with you. To all the family, friends, armchair mountaineers and acquaintances who followed along in the last few weeks; thank you for the support. Your comments on the blog and daily positive vibes were the fuel that pushed us along up there. We thought of you in every decision, and with each picture we took. Until next time, keep warm and enjoy every moment of life. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric, Thank you for taking such good care of ‘Patty’s little boy’. The RMI blog posts that you provided were beneficial to both excited and worried family members. We even had the reassurance of your Mom, now that is special! Also, thank you for allowing John to continue with Team Jones, No Troubles. I realize that restructuring teams in mid-expedition is not usual protocol and wanted to thank both you and Geoff for facilitating this. You allowed John to fulfill a dream! Best Regards, Kent Stenderup

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 11:19 am

Eric—— Thank you for the beautifully written “final thoughts”. It provided positive closure on the “Upper West Rib” expedition. I have great respect for your focus on safety and appreciate the decisions that you made. I am happy for my son , John, that he was able to transition over to Tyler’s group and continue his quest and eventual summit. I spoke with him last night after the team arrived in Talkeetna. He had nothing but praise and appreciation for your great leadership. I would like you to thank your Mom , again for me, for her words of encouragement. It really helped me! Thank you so very much!!!
Patty Stenderup
(PS—- I am still wondering where in Ohio you are from??? I am also a Buckeye.

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:44 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Weathers Another Day

June 16, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

June 15, 2014 - 11:26 pm PT We awoke this morning to blue skies and our excitement spiked. Unfortunately it quickly became apparent that this was only a trap door, the forecast is still looking poor for the next few days. We decided to stay put here at 14 camp, and by early afternoon the clouds and snow were back. The team is beginning to become discouraged and there is talk of heading down hill without a better weather forecast. That's all for now. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the McKinley Upper West Rib Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

However this all plays out, we know you have done everything under your control and to the best of your abilities. Hopefully Mother Nature will have a change of heart and send some weather improvements and conditions in your favor. Keep the faith and stay strong.

Posted by: Rita and BruceWightman on 6/17/2014 at 6:06 pm

Hey guys sorry to hear that.
Although this fickle weather, I hope you have enjoyed your time. Though you haven’t been able to continue up the slope, don’t be disappointed. After all, it isn’t your fault. At least you have explored the unknown and have met your challenge. Do only what’s safe, you’re in our thoughts and prayers.

Love you Jesse

Posted by: L. Rosales on 6/16/2014 at 9:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Takes Another Snowy Rest Day

June 15, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

June 14, 2014 - 10:55 pm PT Well another day has come and gone, but Denali refuses to give us a decent weather window to climb.The team is all prepped to go, and we have had numerous conversations that will improve our efficiency and safety up high. At this point we are just keeping our fingers crossed and watching both the forecast and morning skies to decide when we will move upward. Thanks for following along. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric——-I read your guide BIO , and saw that your were raised in Ohio. Being a Buckeye myself, I was wondering where you grew up? ( this is from John’s Mom)

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/15/2014 at 9:23 pm

John- Your grandfather and Uncle Bruce send greetings your way, knowing that your 3P’s (preparation, patience and perseverance) will eventually pay off. We are all following these postings, so a big thank you to your fellow team members for keeping us informed.

Posted by: Rita and BruceWightman on 6/15/2014 at 3:34 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2014 - 6:45 pm PT After caching food and gear on the ridge yesterday, we are back at our 14k camp waiting for a weather window to move up. The forecast is showing an improving trend in the next few days. For now we are waiting, passing the time by throwing the football around, playing ice axe horseshoes, and sport eating. We are, of course, anxious for the weather to improve, but spirits are high and the rest is only making us stronger. Well, that's all for now, we are keeping our fingers crossed for good weather. Thanks for following our progress. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I shall be in Arvin ,California on Monday ,June 16th….ELEVATION 449. Someone in this family has to stay grounded and out of the clouds…...MOM….always the voice of reason!
I will stay close to my phone so I don’t miss any important calls.

Happy Fathers Day to all of you Dads out there, following the expedition!!!!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 6:27 pm

Hey John and UWR Team,

Monday, June 16, around noon, I should be at 14,505’ on Mt. Whitney for my annual trek. You may be on your summit push near that time, 20,237’. The sum is 34,742 feet. I will wave towards you! That is cruising altitude for most airliners. What a special coincidence, that is the day the Forest Service gave me my permit. Your Mother should have quite the day. Good luck to the UWR Team.

Love, Dad

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 4:32 pm

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Entries By eric frank

Alpamayo: Frank & Team’s Rest Day

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Cache Gear at 16,200’

Alpamayo: Frank and Team at Basecamp

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Reach Llama Corral

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Acclimate Near Huaraz

Alpamayo: From Oceaside to High Mountains

Mt. McKinley: RMI Guide Eric Frank’s Final Thoughts

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Weathers Another Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Takes Another Snowy Rest Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

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