Entries By dustin wittmier

After a relaxing evening enjoying traditionally prepared foods at La Casa Sol, we awoke to a peaceful morning.  Most of the team spent some time prior to breakfast drinking coffee and appreciating our perch above Otavalo.  Following breakfast we loaded the bus and headed into town to experience one of Ecuador's finest craft markets.

The market in Otavalo is full of traditional goods: alpaca garments, woven bags, various other textiles, chocolate (Ecuador is famous for artisan chocolate) and coffee amongst a variety of other goods.  Some team members spent most of their time sipping artisan coffee.  Others used a combination of broken Spanish and hand signals to haggle with vendors.  Once we all reconvened the bus drove us to our rendezvous with the 4x4 trucks that would take us to the refuge on Cayambe.

We are now moved in and situated for the next two days.  Sunday will consist of basic mountaineering skills training review.  The plan is to wrap up early and wake up during the night to climb Cayambe.  The entire team is getting acclimated and itching to give our first big objective a go!

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Today is the day we finally pack up our chubby duffel bags, steal some chocolate filled croissants from our top notch breakfast buffet and hit the road.   Quito is a beautiful city, home to an incredible history and architecture but it is also home to 3 million people.   Buses here burp massive diesel fumes imitating tiny volcanoes and the horns are not quite a song bird, so after a few days, the country is calling.  
On this note, our team all proved they are a timely bunch being packed and ready by 7:30, so we loaded Victor’s magic bus and headed toward our second acclimatization mountain, Fuya Fuya.   If you strapped a gps on crow and flew it to the mountain it would only fly 85 miles or so but on the ground, that distance took three hours or cover.  Upon arriving in the small town of Otavalo, our bus head upward into the hills on old cobble stone roads, similar to what you would find in Europe.   Halfway to the trailhead we were stopped by a child no older that seven who had a rope tied across the road.  In a fantastic show of entrepreneurship, he engaged those tiny arms, pulled the rope tight and forced the bus to a surprised halt.  Out of pure respect for the hustling toll collector we paid him his asking price and off we went.   
Where the road ends, there is a beautiful crater lake formed by the sinking of the volcano in its last eruption.  We parked, shouldered our light packs and made the two hour hike through interesting native fauna and steep grassy slopes to the summit of this 14,000 foot peak.  Being an adventurous crew, we then traversed west along a skinny ridge to Fuya’s neighbor peak providing some fourth class rock scrambling and enjoyable steep movements.   Unfortunately the clouds decided to join the party and occlude our grand vista of surrounding peaks and the deep blue lake but overall the weather stayed dry and warm.  
An hour long descent brought as back to the bus and another hour, back to town.  Our toll collector did not greet us on the trip down but his encounter certainly provide a laugh for the rest of the evening.   
After a nice lunch we landed at La Casa Sol or the sun house, in English, where we practiced some knots, ate dinner and enjoyed a good nights rest.  Tomorrow we move up to Cayambe where things begin to get a bit colder and more real!  
More to come.   

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Day Two

It is a rare blessing here in the highlands of Ecuador if we see the snow-capped summits of Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Antisana two days in a row.  Heck, I’d bet my son’s favorite LEGO set on the odds of that happening even once.  But due to abnormally clear skies, warm temps and some cashed in Karma points, we have received that blessing. 

Taking advantage of the good weather, team Ecuador Seminar enjoyed a great breakfast, packed our bags and headed out of Quito to our first “real” mountain, Pichincha Rucu.  Please keep in mind when I say “headed out”, I’m referring to a 15-minute bus ride and when I say “real”, I’m referring to a ho-hum 15,400 foot extinct volcano.  These two realities shine light on another of Ecuador’s overlooked blessings, the ability to go really high really quickly.  Not to mention a cable car which whisked us from 10,000 to 13,000 feet in a matter of minutes, making sure our unacclimatized bodies got the full effect.  

With the surreal summits still scraping the sky far off, we all hit the trail huffing and puffing but enjoying the warm sun and beautiful conditions.  Two and a half hours of steady hiking put us at the summit around 12:30 in the afternoon.  Here the temperatures changed to jackets and light gloves but not unpleasant by any stretch.  After 20 minutes on top, we headed down. 

Just as our team crushed the city tour yesterday, our first mountain was no exception.  Solid performances from every member proved we should be ready, when the time comes, to take on one of the high ones. 

Once back at the hotel everybody was set free to explore, rest, eat a guinea pig or go shopping.  We will reconvene for dinner and prepare for another mountain tomorrow.  

Stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Day one of our long awaited Ecuadorian adventure has officially begun.  All of the grueling training with unthinkably heavy packs, sweat burned eyes and crippling soreness is finally over and world’s finest mountain climbing team is ready.   It’s been a long time coming, a year at least, for this elite team from Chicago, Minneapolis, San Fransico, Philadelphia and other mountain meccas to unite. 

Today in Quito, Ecuador our team took an incredible tour of this ancient city impressing the locals with powerful, athletic bus riding skills, strong gravitational resistance and uncanny focus.  This is no joke.  Our first stop was 20 miles north of downtown Quito at a mysterious place known as… “The Equator”.   This unique place has exhibits which make water spin in opposite directions twenty feet from the painted red line, make a seemingly simple DUI test almost impossible and miraculously provide magic nails that somehow can balance an egg, the long way, on their tiny heads.  Fortunately, I was able to choose who would be climbing on my rope by each person’s performance and strength.  Those who got an egg diploma, didn’t fall sideways to the south and had the strongest upward pull against our guide’s superhuman strength, passed the test.  

After our interactive visit to the center of the world, we flexed our bus muscles once again and proceeded 25 miles back into the heart of Quito.  The entire ride we were blessed with very rare views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Anitsana, three of Ecuadors highest peaks, two of which we are going to climb on this trip.  Thankfully I saw no fear in the eyes of my group indicating nerves of steel and complete readiness.   

After two hours of enjoying grand vistas of the bustling city, visiting beautiful churches and walking the old town streets, the team made it back to the hotel, not even winded, ready for a power nap.  I can’t wait to get on a mountain with them! 

For now, all is well, the group is healthy and excited so we will sign off until tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

We had an amazing night to climb the highest peak in Mexico, 18,491’. The skies were clear, near full moon and warm air in the first 2 hours out of Piedra Grande Hut. 

By the time we got done meandering through the labyrinth there was a cold breeze and the temps dropped as we neared the toe of the Jamapa Glacier that dominates Pico de Orizaba’s Northside. The Team got their crampons on and up we went for what seemed like forever. The climbing is similar to Rainier’s glaciers. There had been some new snow in the last 10 days and a rain event that was proceeded by a lot of wind and a cold front. The result was a thick ice crust on the lower glacier. The guides had begun talking about turning the climb due to the inability to arrest a fall in these conditions if they persisted in the steeper slopes. Fortunately the snow softened and the team reached the summit around 8:15 am. 

During the descent the clouds came in and we descended to the hut. With wet clouds rolling through camp and temperatures dropping we loaded up and road down the bumpy road to Senior Reyes’ climbing hostel. Beers, showers, beers, food, packing and sleeping in that order gets us to the airport tomorrow afternoon. It’s been a fantastic Mexico Volcanoes trip with a great group of climbers. 

RMI Guides Mike King & Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

We got an early start from Puebla after a fun and relaxing rest day. The drive to Tlachichuca takes us through agricultural communities and around a massive Audi/VW manufacturing plant that appears to have just sprung up in the middle of nowhere. 

We will pack our bags for the Orizaba climb before enjoying a light lunch at Sr. Reyes' 100+ year old soap factory turned climber’s hostel. From there we load up in some 4x4 trucks that crawl their way through sprawling corn fields and dense pine forests until we get to Piedra Grande Hut where we will spend the night. Aside from the packing, the only other objective today is to go for a hike into the lower portion of Orizaba’s labyrinth section to stretch the legs and lungs a bit. This gives the Team a chance to see what the first 3+ hours of the climb will be like. Hopefully we are checking in next from the summit of Orizaba tomorrow morning. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

The guides got up at 11:30 pm to head up onto the ridge where you can see any approaching storms for the East and West. There was a low lying blanket of clouds and west wind of 5-10 mph. Hoping not to get into a similar lightning and thunder storm from previous years we waited 45 minutes before waking up the climbers. The approaching cold front kept the clouds low through the night which afforded us a great temperature to go climbing. The first stretch takes you through the “knees” of Ixta and is a steep scree slope with some scrambling straight out of high camp.

Once on the ridge we began the up and down of what seems like 7 false summits. As we crossed the rapidly receding Ayoloco Glacier, the trail begins to narrow and we were close to the summit crater. At 17,160’ it was still dark and the teams began their descent with increasing winds and cold/damp clouds started rolling over from the West. The descent back to high camp was smooth and we enjoyed an amazing sunrise with the dark silhouette of Pico de Orizaba in the East.

The Team is in Puebla now for a rest day and tomorrow we will head for our last climb of the trip on North America’s third highest mountain, Orizaba.

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

The RMI Mexico's Volcanoes Team reached the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 5:30 am local time.  They left High Camp in warm conditions but the weather changed to cold and windy by the time they reached the summit.  The team is making their way to the trailhead and will check in later with more details.

Congratulations to the team!

This morning we had a hearty breakfast of fresh fruit and a locals take on huevos mexicana. The Team got packed up and organized their gear to begin the 3.5 mile hike to our High Camp. The route consists of a series of ascending traverses that gain approximately 2,500’. During this time we looked out upon the farming communities of Amecameca and Puebla. After our second break we were overtaken by some thin clouds. Thankfully they were dry and didn’t carry any lightening. More times then not we experience some thunder and electrical activity at this High Camp due to similar weather patterns that many of you have experienced in the US Rocky Mountains. If the weather gets bad we do have a hut to hide out in since it is grounded and has a few lightening rods.

The Team did well today considering the high altitude and heavy overnight packs. This camp is at 15,500’ which is a new high point for many in the group.   We will make a summit attempt early tomorrow morning and we have our fingers crossed the weather cooperates.

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Today was a logistics day with a hike to continue our acclimatization. We left La Malinche around 8 am and had a delicious breakfast enroute to the town of Amecameca where we bought our water and remaining supplies for the Ixta climb. From there we drove up a winding road to Paso de Cortes which lies between the 2 volcanoes Popo and Ixta that dominate this area of Mexico. With rain lightly bouncing off our jackets, we walked the 4.5 miles from the park entrance to the hut located at 13,000’. We are packing and enjoying the new dusting of snow on the surrounding peaks. Dinner and a good night's sleep will have us prepared to head up to high camp tomorrow morning.

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map