Entries By christina dale
June 3, 2017
Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 16,600'/17,200'
June 2, 2017
As cold as it is at 6:30am here at 14,200', we knew that an early start to our day would be for the best. The crew was up and at 'em even before hots were quite ready. We all knew this was a big day, and it was.
The sun hadn't hit our part of the mountain yet, so we were bundled up. This is my usual plan, and surprisingly, we were the first group out of camp. This always bodes well in terms of being one of the first on the fixed lines - that part of the mountain which is quite steep where passage up it is protected by fixed ropes that we can secure ourselves to while climbing slopes up to 50 degrees in steepness.
The team really crushed it, then climbed well again on the
West Buttress itself. This really is the most spectacular and challenging part of the route. A few of us cached our loads at our standard location at 16,600'. But two of our rope teams climbed all the way to high camp at 17,200' and cached there! Great work by everyone.
Later, upon return to camp, we heard that a group that left an hour after us had to wait for two hours due to the congestion in the fixed roped. We were all pretty psyched that we didn't have that issue. Instead, we had one of the most perfect days climbing the Butttress I've seen. Windless and warm.
The weather forecast is, of course, on everybody's minds, with this window of nice weather perhaps coming to an end in a couple of days. Some guides are even accelerating their timelines to head up to 17,200' a day or so earlier. I've toyed with this idea too, to forego our rest day tomorrow and try to get a summit in while we can. But, my gut tells me to practice the patience I always preach, so we'll enjoy our rest day tomorrow and take it one day at a time. I know we'll all be the stronger for it, and after our big day we're all a little tired right now.
So, good night from 14,200'.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina an JT
On The Map
June 1, 2017
Well we were given another blue bird day today with amazing views abounding in every direction. As many of you may know, clear skies usually correspond with cold temperatures, and that was true as ever this morning. At 8 am Christina ventured a peek at her thermometer inside the tent, and her findings confirmed our suspicions, the mercury read a measly -10 F.
After we huddled around some hot beverages, and waited for the sun to start working its magic, the day truly began. With temperatures rising steadily, a few of our climbers who were feeling particularly well acclimated headed down hill to pick up some of our food and fuel at 13,500 ft while the rest of the crew honed in on their fixed rope skills.
We did a bit of lounging whilst preparing and practicing for our carry to high camp tomorrow and enjoyed drying out and soaking up some rays! It was appreciated by all to have some nice sunny weather to balance out all the snowy weather we endured earlier in the trip. That is all from
14 Camp!
RMI Guides JT, Brent and Christina
On The Map
May 31, 2017
Finally, our string of bad weather is over and
summer has come to Denali! Yahoo.
Braving the early morning chill of camp at 11,200' we didn't linger in the Posh over breakfast but set about taking down camp after our oatmeal and coffee fix. Everyone did a great job and we were climbing by 9:00am.
We did have company on the route, but the traffic was manageable. Unlike our previous climb of the route when we made our carry, this time we ended up walking in just a base layer after it warmed up in the afternoon. What a treat.
All that said, the move to 14,200' is always tough. It's just a big jump in altitude for everyone. So yes, we're all feeling it just a bit, but that's normal. The team could not have performed better. We even picked up some of our cache from 13,500'.
Tomorrow we have a fairly easy day ahead, which will help our acclimatization to our new home.
As the shadows overtake camp, it's starting to get a little chilly. Just a harbinger of the cold that will settle on us tonight. But we're all snug in our tents now ready for the night.
Good night from 14,200'.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
On The Map
May 30, 2017
Finally we get a break. After nine days of squirrelly, cold, snowy weather the sun broke out just prior to noon. There was an inkling of better weather coming earlier, but nothing definitive. And when it broke, camp went nuts with folks either moving or carrying loads. We opted to stay put, not liking the idea of fighting all that traffic going up Motorcycle Hill and coming into camp at 14,200' late, needing to build camp as the shadows overtake camp and the temperature drops 30 degrees.
A couple of folks are fighting small colds, and this warm, easy day is just what the doctor ordered. When we saw rope teams waiting for 30-40 minutes to just leave camp because of the traffic, we felt pretty good about the decision.
We certainly enjoyed the day as it became spectacularly sunny and clear. This is the
Denali I love and dream of coming back to every year.
With the weather folks are streaming into camp and it's as big as I've seen it. But, with just a little luck, we'll be out of here early and moving into a 14,200' camp that has been vacated by the crowds of climbers amassed there waiting for their opportunity to move to 17,200' camp for a bid for the summit.
Everyone's dispositions have brightened with the sunshine, which is amazing considering the good cheer among the team even in the poor weather.
We'll be talking to you from 14,200' soon!
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
May 30, 2017
Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories:
Elevation: 11,200'
May 29, 2017
Another two feet of snow fell on us last night, and it was still snowing when I awoke to check the weather throughout the morning. So, another storm day at
11,200' Camp.
With all this snow dreams of skiing the deep 'pow' entered all our skiers' brains, but the only face shots we got was when the wind caught the snow we were shoveling from our tents and blew it back in our face. Oh well.
The snowfall intensity was remarkable. Fifteen minutes after clearing your tent it appeared that you had done nothing.
Since we had enjoyed a great rest day yesterday, I thought it better that we stretched our legs just a little today. So, we roped up for a short stroll down to 10,100' where we helped out our team behind us and carried some of their cache up to camp for them while they were taking a storm/rest day at 7,800'. Loads were light and in a couple of hours we were back at camp.
An afternoon relaxing back in the tents topped off our little walk, leaving the team feeling pretty darned good at dinner.
We're all keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. Send us positive thoughts for the weather. And thank you for the blog replies. We've gotten one batch sent to us so far and everyone loves hearing them.
Good night from 11,200' camp, hopefully for the last time.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
What a winter wonderland for May 28! Over the past week at least three feet of snow has fallen and it is still coming down. Visions of power skiing, snowman building,and marshmallow roasting dance in our heads as we spend a day resting here at 11,200 camp. The group is in good spirits and all set up to move when the mountain gives us our chance. There is quite a community building here at camp because no one has had the opportunity to move up recently. The RMI establishment is on the upper end of Main Street with 4 tents and a communal cook tent where we enjoy pancakes, hot chocolate, and tortellini. Our latrine had a nice makeover today now has three tall walls with a chicane entrance. We are all very happy about the improvements. As for the rest of Main Street there are no Starbucks but a constant view of people shoveling out their tents.
Signing off from the little city with a population of 60 people here on the side of
Denali.
RMI Guides Christina, Brent, JT & Team
May 27, 2017 10:15 pm PST
During our break on the
Polo Field at 12,800',someone asked if we could keep our big down parkas on. Good question. It was pretty darned cold and the wind was directly into our face. I'd never had to climb in my parka at that elevator before, but it sure sounded like a good idea to me. Our attempt yesterday really set us up for success today. The team learned how to keep their faces protected while not fogging up their glasses or goggles. And that allowed us to travel in some chilly conditions today. A great skill to have before we get to the higher, colder parts of the mountain. Our time thus far has been particularly cold and unsettled. I'm just glad we haven't been hanging up at 14,200' this whole time like our other two groups. With luck, we'll get there just as this predicted high pressure system comes through, hopefully with the expected rise in temperatures too. We wore those parkas all the way around Windy Corner to our cache site at 13,500', where we were finally sheltered from the wind and could bask in some sunny, warm weather. Amazingly, we all opted to keep those big coats on all the way back to camp. With the wind at our backs and nothing much in our packs, we could gloat just a bit as we passed by the madding crowds on the uphill slog into the cold wind. Our hard work was done, and we were headed back to camp. There's something to be said about being up early and back early even at the cost of breaking trail each morning.
If we get another break with the weather tomorrow, we might just make the move to 14,200' camp. That would be fantastic, especially how everyone is doing so well.
That's it from 11,200'. It's been a big day.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team
Awakening to blue skies we were ready to carry to 13,500', but, unfortunately, the winds picked up suddenly at the top of
Motorcycle Hill and we were forced to bury our load there and retreat to the protection and comfort of camp. The weather taught us some valuable lessons about taking care of ourselves, lessons that will do us well later in the trip as we get higher on the mountain.
As I've mentioned before, we do have a pretty cool team. Perhaps I'll share a brief sketch of the individuals on this team.
I'll start with an incredibly impressive lady who's palmares in mountain climbing outshines most of our accomplishments. And her ability to handle the outrageous loads this climb demands rivals climbers half her age. Oh, she/we hope this summit will be her 50th.
Another member who shares 'senior' status with the aforementioned climber comes from Vermont and is no stranger to cold, harsh conditions. He hasn't been fazed by any of the weather challenges and has handled the climbing like a rock star! No surprise though - I've climbed with him before and reached the summit with his step daughter on this mountain a few years ago.
A climber very dear to my heart, and a favorite of us all, hails from England, and is here with me for the second time. Having not reached the summit the first time, he's back for more. Such a kind-hearted, nicer person you will never meet, and he's more comfortable with the mountain this time around. He is the type of person who makes you feel good to be around him.
We have a couple from Colorado who climbed with me last fall on Rainier. She is amazingly strong, and weighing in at half the weight of some of my climbers, she has still been able to do her part in load carrying and always manages to greet the day with a huge smile.Her other half has the strength of two men, and the energy that knows no bounds. Always helping out with camp chores, we have to sometimes rein him in so he doesn't make us guides look like slackers.
Another couple climbed with me two years ago, but could make this trip happen last year, so here they are. We've really needed to help her come out of her shell here (NOT). She's a dynamo, and I remember her strength two years ago. I think she's even stronger now, as evident in the guns she's sporting for quads. Her husband balances her outgoing nature so nicely, and it's fun watching them together. he has trained incredibly hard, unwilling to be outdone by his partner. In fact, when there is trail breaking to do, I put him right behind me in the hardest spot.
Our last member I remember meeting as I passed one of our Alaskan seminars that take place on the mountain. And now he's here, doing it. Sometimes a bit quieter than the others, he constantly impresses me with strength and ability. Apparently, he's sporting a battery of electronics, but the guy can definitely handle it. He works for Samsung, so I guess it just makes sense.
And then there are the guides:
On his first trip here, JT is rocking it! Always working and asking great questions, he's guiding like a seasoned pro. Great in difficult situations, he's been great company in the tent too.
On our second trip together, Christina has been nothing but exceptional. A joy to be around, she also knows the ins and outs of these climbs and I rely upon her for tying together all the details that makes the expedition run so well.
Then there's me. Just a simple guy that likes walking uphill and bore you with details of life here on the mountain. I'll try not to be so long winded next time.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Clear skies were a very welcome sight as I peeked out the vestibule on this frigid, frosty morning. Definitely our coldest morning yet! But, we had a cache to put in so the wheels were set in motion for our climb.
Unfortunately, the weather deteriorated to the point where we pulled the plug and took a well deserved rest day instead.
What a treat. Lounging about in the tents, eating, listening to tunes, reading, sleeping, eating some more. Our bodies sucked in the energy from the calories eaten and the warmth provided by the radiation getting through the clouds and snow showers. Tents and sleeping bags dried as our bodies got the recharge we all needed.
The smell of fried onions, red peppers, chicken and chilies greeted us when the dinner bell rang, and no doubt made the rest of camp salivate with envy. Chefs JT and Christina put on yet another fine spread.
It's these simple pleasures that we tend to value so much in the mountains.
After our dress rehearsal this morning and rest day I think we'll be ready to rock tomorrow. The forecast hasn't changed any, but the winds aren't bad. It's just a bit irritating to climb in the occasional snow showers and cloudy weather. But, I guess we've been doing it all week. This team has demonstrated the capacity to climb well, so hopefully we'll get our cache established at 13,500' and be primed to move to
14,200' camp when we can.
Not that I'm a great believer in the weather forecasts around here, but they say high pressure is coming our way by Monday. We're due!
Good night from 11,200', where I'm in our tent at the very reasonable hour of 9:00p after camp chores, and not freezing my fingers in the frigid cold of these Alaskan nights.
Oh, and by the way, your loved ones are all happy and doing exceptionally well. The guides included. If you all have any messages for the team, our office staff will send them our way sometime. Hopefully coinciding with our next rest day where I'll have time to share them with everyone. Just don't get carried away with the heartfelt mushy stuff. I hate choking up in front of the group.
Your messengers of news from above,
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
May 24, 2017
Well, the weather has changed, and not for the best. Wind and snow intensified this morning, so much so that we postponed our departure to retrieve our cache from 10,000' for a bit to make sure a big storm didn't move in.
But the weather held off enough for us to bring our cache back to camp. Now we're set.
This continually amazes me. When we got back I thought we all deserved a break, figuring an hour or two of tent time to rest up would be most welcome, 20-30 minutes later I hear most everyone out cutting blocks to beef up the walls we already had. Impressive!
We're sitting pretty now, ready for anything. Should tomorrow's weather preclude a
carry to cache at 13,500', that would be just fine. Everyone has been working so hard and so well that some tent time is probably in order. Even, I am looking forward to a rest day soon.
And we're all looking forward to some better weather. Our peek at the mountains surrounding us last night just made us want more.
Oh, and in case you were wondering what was on the menu today. Scrambled eggs, hash browns and bacon for breakfast. An assortment of Indian food, served on a bed of rice and chicken, followed by a nice pudding for dessert. Mmm.
That's it from 11,200' camp. Good night.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
On The Map
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Good luck JT, have fun and be safe!
Posted by: Tad on 6/4/2017 at 5:28 am
Good work. Ardel, I’m thrilled your team is “movin on up.”
Have fun.
David
Posted by: David Zeps on 6/3/2017 at 10:44 am
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