Entries By alex halliday
May 11, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 348'
We loaded our on two de Haviland Otter turbo prop single engine airplanes this morning and took off for Kahiltna Base Camp. The flight over the tundra was beautiful as we soared beneath a low ceiling of clouds. As we approached the range it became apparent that our normal access points of One Shot and Second Shot Passes were not options due to the low clouds. So the pilots opted to try "the long way", which means accessing the Kahiltna glacier at its toe and following it up toward Base Camp. The problem was that as we gained elevation on the glacier the cloud did not, and eventually we were flying in the cloud, a thick pea soup, with very little visibility. So the team of K2 pilots made the prudent decision to turn around and head back for Talkeetna.
We spent the rest of the day on stand by to see if weather would improve. It did not, and in fact it deteriorated a little. We'll play the same game tomorrow, with a less than ideal forecast. The good news is that high pressure looks to be moving our way soon!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 10, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 348'
The 2019 Denali climbing season is getting under way. Our team met this morning for breakfast at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse for heaping servings of eggs and sourdough hotcakes. After breakfast we strolled down to the Susitna River where chunks of recently broken up ice flowed out from the direction of the Alaska Range. On a clear day we would be able to see Denali from here, but our view was obscured by clouds.
Next up was a trip the National Park Service office for a pre-trip orientation. We went over specifics of the route as well as safety issues and environmental stewardship responsibilities we climbers have in keeping the mountain clean.
The rest of the day was the meat and potatoes, where we headed to the K2 Aviation hangar to sort our gear and food to be prepared to fly into the range, hopefully tomorrow.
We'll keep you posted with our status...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Go get’em Kelby!
Posted by: Mike Potter on 5/13/2019 at 9:28 am
Wishing the first team of the season an awesome weather and an unforgettable experience! I’ll follow your footprints in a few weeks!!!
Posted by: Anna on 5/11/2019 at 10:10 am
August 13, 2018
Posted by: Zeb Blais, Alex Halliday, Bryce Foster
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais radioed this morning to report a successful climb. The team is enjoying beautiful views of Mt. Rainier's summit crater and surrounding area. They are experiencing light winds and will begin their descent shortly.
Congratulations!
Would like information on summiting Mt Rainier. 2019
Posted by: Richard hibbert on 8/14/2018 at 4:21 am
July 19, 2018
Posted by: Alan Davis, Alex Halliday, Andy Bond, Dave Hahn, Gloria Roe, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Jenny Konway, JT Schmitt, Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
At the end of this past April, eleven RMI guides came together in Washington to take the AMGA Alpine Skills Course, a prerequisite for the Alpine Guide Course, and a great continuing education opportunity for all of us to remain at the forefront of current guiding techniques. After a winter of far-flung adventures, Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, and myself converged on Ashford. These courses are an important chance for us to refresh our skillset and learn some new tricks from our peers and the instructors from the AMGA.
Over the course of 5 days at Paradise in Mt. Rainier National Park, and on Mt. Erie, outside Anacortes, WA, we reviewed snow anchor construction and multi-pitch techniques for snowy environments, belaying and lowering techniques, short roping and short pitching, and anchor station management. Success in our guiding often lies in not only being able to utilize a number of techniques to manage risk, but in being able to maintain efficiency and timeliness at the same time. As we worked through different transitions, techniques, and scenarios with our peers, we all walked away with a few new tools in our bag and I'm convinced will be better guides for it.
This was a fantastic event for the eleven of us, and many thanks go out to RMI and the AMGA for putting it on. Congrats to Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, and Alan Davis for completing the course!
-- Alex Halliday
Over the course of 5 days at Paradise in Mt. Rainier National Park, and on Mt. Erie, outside Anacortes, WA, we reviewed snow anchor construction and multi-pitch techniques for snowy environments, belaying and lowering techniques, short roping and short pitching, and anchor station management. Success in our guiding often lies in not only being able to utilize a number of techniques to manage risk, but in being able to maintain efficiency and timeliness at the same time. As we worked through different transitions, techniques, and scenarios with our peers, we all walked away with a few new tools in our bag and I'm convinced will be better guides for it.
This was a fantastic event for the eleven of us, and many thanks go out to RMI and the AMGA for putting it on. Congrats to Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, and Alan Davis for completing the course!
-- Alex Halliday
June 1, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 348'
Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:33 PM PT
From the top of Radio Tower to the bottom of the crevasse on the Kahiltna, your guides; Christina, Lucas, and Alex thank the Alaska Seminar team for bringing a sense of humor and awe to the 9 days spent together. We are now off the ice and onto burgers and brews.
May 31, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
May 31, 2018 - 10:32 pm PT
We just finished up out last dinner (weather permitting) on the glacier. Today we loaded gear on our backs and sleds and moved to basecamp where our group decided to set up tents then take an evening glacier hike to the base of the North Face of Mount Hunter to say farewell to the Alaska Range. We all feel grateful for the time to learn and explore here. I know for a fact many of our team will be back soon to climb the Great One.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
May 30, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
After a lazy morning of hiding in tents or the cook tent from the snow and wind we had brunch. It was a two hot drink kind of morning. But then the temps warmed and the clouds lightened and we set up a ropes course on the glacier. We used ascenders to climb ropes, rappels to descend, and tethers to traverse. After some avalanche beacon searching drills, we hunkered down for some lunch and an avalanche formation lecture. All in all, a lot of practice clipping carabiners and using gear. This group has taken everything in stride and keeps impressing us with their focus and energy. We also have been enjoying the laughter that seems to roll out of the kitchen tent all evening. Tomorrow we'll rig sleds and head back to Kahiltna Basecamp and then into a hot shower way too soon after that. Whether we're climbing, learning, or hanging out, this group has been a true pleasure to be with for the past eight days.
RMI Guides Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, and Alex Halliday
May 29, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:28 PM PT
Today we awoke to some of the first stormy weather of the trip. After sleeping in a little and taking the time to make a delicious pancake and bacon breakfast we roped up and spent the afternoon climbing to Furien Col taking advantage of a good weather window. The climb was steep and involved. We used many of the climbing and anchoring techniques that we've learned throughout the week. It was fun to put our skills to use and get up to a high point. Unfortunately, no views for us because the weather rolled in and we were inside a pingpong ball. We descended from the col and are taking time to rest in our tents.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
May 28, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Monday, May 28th - 8:10 pm PST
We woke up to more sunshine and the smell of bacon on the Kahiltna. After breakfast burritos browned to perfection by Lucas, we packed up camp and took off down Heart Break Hill. Named for its uphill torture on the way back to the airstrip. Everyone reported feeling "great!" after the descent. But then we started the glacier slog with heavy packs and sleds. The next break the team reported feeling "good." After another two hours the team asked, "So, where is camp?" We pulled into a perfect camp in Farine Basin and got to work excavating the glacier and flattening our sleeping nooks. Now it looks perfect for the night. The team is doing well and showed their strength by building camp in good fashion after a long day. If this good weather holds, we'll attempt to climb Farine Peak tomorrow.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Rick…..Hopefully you won’t have to to use any crevasse rescue skills. So claustrophobic, so it gives me the chills. Pictures are so beautiful. Good luck and prayers on the climb to Farine Peak. Love, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Marci & Keith Meyer on 5/29/2018 at 12:03 pm
May 28, 2018
Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
Sunday, May 27th - 11:00 pm PST
What a day of rope work we had under the most amazing back drop of Mount Hunter. We went through different knots and how to build a variety of equalized snow anchors. Then we put it to practice and had everyone take turns going into a deep crevasse and the team would build a pulley system to bring them out. This was an Alaska style crevasse which means it appears bottomless and cold. We had so much fun exploring the glacier up close and personal. The team's rope skills are great but we hope to avoid using the rescue skills as we head out tomorrow to move camp up the Kahiltna Glacier. After such a big day of playing on and in the glaciers, we all treated ourselves to two hot chocolates after a delicious dinner of tortellini with sun-dried tomatoes.
Goodnight from the glacier!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Good prudent decision of the K2 pilots. Thanks for keeping it safe. Hope the high pressure comes in with better weather.
Posted by: Susan Royce on 5/11/2019 at 6:31 pm
Clouds be gone!
Posted by: Mike Watt on 5/11/2019 at 12:57 pm
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