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Entries By Mike Uchal


Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Caches Supplies and Returns to Camp

Saturday, June 15th, 2013 After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m. Katie and Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don't judge, we worked hard! The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around 9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now. Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy! RMI Guide Mike Haugen P.S. Congratulations to Tyler Jones and team for their summit!

On The Map

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Enjoyed meeting you’all in Talkeetna.  I am happy to hear you all are safe and sound.  We had a “standard” at the Roadhouse and a couple of Ice Ax Axes at the West Rib in your honor this afternoon.  Heading home tomorrow.  Good luck on the mountain, and I hope you all summit.

Posted by: Papa Haugen on 6/16/2013 at 4:52 pm

Happy Fathers Day, Q! Jack and I miss you, hope you are having a great time!

Posted by: Liz Landers on 6/16/2013 at 1:58 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move Up to Camp 1

Friday, June 14, 2013 Greetings from Summit Team 6! We bit off a huge chunk today with our move from Basecamp to Camp 1. We carried all of the food, fuel, equipment, and clothing that we will need for our expedition. Needless to say, we carried heavy! We made the trip up glacier in just under five hours. Once in camp, we made a bombproof tent site sheltered from the wind. It took us around an hour to get camp setup and organized. We took advantage of another beautifully warm and clear afternoon to take some siesta time. This was much needed since we woke up at 2:00 a.m. to pack up this morning. We are just getting ready for a Dinty Moore and mashed potatoes dinner. I would imagine it will be another early evening since we have another early wake up time scheduled. Our plan is to carry gear up a bit higher and make a cache and then return to the same camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and McKinley Team 6

On The Map

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Pictures are very cool.  Continued Success!

Posted by: Brigitte on 6/15/2013 at 10:41 pm


Mt. McKinley: Team Haugen is on the Mountain!

Thursday, June 13, 2013 We are all safely nestled in our tents just off the landing strip at basecamp. We had a magnificent flight from Talkeetna to basecamp at the flanks of Denali. The weather on the glacier is as warm as I have ever seen it. For this reason, we are not traveling today and instead used the warm weather during the day to organize our backpacks and sled loads. We worked on some crevasse rescue techniques as we are about to head out onto the Kahiltna Glacier; a glacier filled with giant cracks in the ice. We are going to travel up glacier tonight so we can travel on firm snow and solid snow bridges. Wish us a solid freeze! RMI Summit Team 6 - RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono & the team

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Ahh, I think I see you guys!  Wait, nope just a speck on my screen.  Grrr.

Guide guide away Scoob!  I am sending “everyone will summit” vibes out to your team! 

Miss YOU!

Posted by: Amber on 6/15/2013 at 9:10 pm

Good luck Grasshopper (Greg) Will be following you guys. Be safe
Glenn

Posted by: Glenn Bracey on 6/15/2013 at 2:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Flying to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have a safe ascent and descent after you all summit. We are so proud of you QL.

Posted by: George Landers on 6/14/2013 at 3:53 pm

Best of luck to everyone. Be safe and don’t forget to have fun. 

A big shout out to Cindee Teer!

Posted by: Alyse Parrino on 6/14/2013 at 3:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Hi All! We are hanging out in beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska. We had a gorgeous day for organizing and packing our gear. the sun is shining and the mountain is visible in the distance. The team met up in Anchorage yesterday and have been slowly molding into Summit Assassin RMI Team 6! They really are a great crew! Our gear is all bagged, weighed, and tagged. We got the word that we are all supposed to fly to basecamp around 9 tomorrow morning so we are all scrambling to get in those last correspondences and last minute tasks before the morning. We are all set for an incredible expedition. Off to bed for an early start- RMI Guide Mike Haugen
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Good luck and be safe. We are thinking about you always.

Posted by: Bill Mackey on 6/13/2013 at 8:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Waiting at Basecamp

At 3:30 this morning I was startled awake by what I thought was the rumbling of a distant avalanche. Perhaps my mountain senses have an automatic alertness to these deep thunderous roars that will pull me from the deepest sleep. As I poked my head out of the tent door, I remembered where we are. Two days ago I broke the news to the team that a serious storm was brewing and the risk of staying at high camp, in my opinion, outweighed the reward of a potential summit. Going for the top on Monday or Tuesday would put our total time there at eight or nine days, well beyond anyone's preference. So we packed camp with heavy hearts and set off on our descent. We moved efficiently down to eleven thousand feet where we rested for six hours. The alarm went off at 5:00 am to no one's delight and we headed toward basecamp at 7:30. By 3:00 pm we were drinking MGD and relaxing in the sun. K2 aviation was optimistic about flying us off so morale, all things considered, was high. That was until one hour later the clouds moved in and it began to to snow. That was more than 24 hours ago. Now as I write this at 4 pm on Sunday, we have received two feet of snow. Welcome to Mt. McKinley! We have all just come in for lunch after two solid hours stomping down the runway so if the storm does abate, planes might fly. This is all we hope for now, the high pitch sound of propellers and don't think twice about those avalanches in the distance. This is Adam Knoff signing out.

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Thnx to all for your comments & thoughts—it meant alot to us all up there.
Even though we didn’t summit, we all had an epic time—great guides, climbing buds & I know The West Rib & The Fairview Inn will not soon forget us that “last night” in Talkeetna.
For the record, I played & sang a couple of songs at “open mic tues”—DG & Uch witnessed the “trainwreck” the extra nite we stayed.
Again, what a time…and Joe H—the cache ate your snowshoes—it wasn’t Mike’s fault!
Tim

Posted by: tim mclaughlin on 7/12/2012 at 7:20 pm

Tim, glad to hear you are all well.  Look forward to your return to Wenatchee.  Bart

Posted by: Bart Miller on 7/12/2012 at 10:08 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

Adam Knoff called into the office just before 6PM. With a storm expected, the team was hoping to make it to basecamp in order to fly off in front of the storm. The weather didn't quite hold and it began to snow in the last hour upon reaching basecamp. The team's plan to unwind in Talkeetna has been thwarted until further notice.

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Adam and team, was glad to read the posting that you were down to base camp.  Sorry your summit hopes didn’t work out this time.  Thanks for blogging and helping your mom not worry so much :).  Hope to see or hear from you soon Adam.  I hope you got out today?  Love Kris

Posted by: Kris Bowditch on 7/9/2012 at 8:17 pm

Nels,
I know you are probably pissed about your current situation, but I can’t wait for you to be back on the grid! I miss you and I have so much to tell you! Stay safe and keep writing.
xoxo EB

Posted by: Erica on 7/8/2012 at 6:40 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

This is Adam calling in from 17,000’ on Denali. We woke this morning to continued snow and wind, with a major low pressure system forecast to dominate the region over the next several days. We have endured this weather at high camp since Monday and have decided to descend back to 14K camp. Even the approach route, between 14,000’ and basecamp, can be a bear to navigate in foul weather, and we need to stay strong and focused. We’ll begin our descent of the West Buttress and the infamous fixed lines to reach Advanced Base at 14,200’ where Dave Hahn’s RMI party is encamped. We’ll check in tomorrow and advise everyone of our plans and progress. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

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John and crew,  Stay strong!  I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor.  You have been so patient ....hang in there!  love, dee

Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm

Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp.  I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp.  I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali.  Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance.  Love you, stay safe.  Dad

Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

This is the June 19th Denali Expedition welcoming you to the first episode, of the new hit saga, "As the Wind Blows." Time flies when you're having fun at 17,000 feet. We're now going on our third full day at high camp. We've determined that the forecast provided by the National Park Service, is reliable as a politician in an election year. Despite the gale force winds and frigid temperatures, the team remains positive. We pass the time eating junk food and sharing iPods as our batteries last. Zeb and Adam ventured to 19,000 feet yesterday to check snow stability and rock conditions after high winds and snowfall. The avalanche danger a concern. They've deemed the route safe, which now leaves the ball in the court of Mother Nature. 17,000 feet is a harsh waiting room, which increases the longing for family, friends, and the creature comforts of our homes. We invite you to wait with us lower 48 as we pass the time here at 17K. Stay tune for the next episode of, "As the Wind Blows." RMI Guide Mike Uchal


RMI Guide Mike Uchal with the First Episode of As the Wind Blows

On The Map

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Nelson-

You are an inspiration! I cannot wait to hear about your big adventure. I’m really proud of you. Take good care and I’ll see you later this year.

Katie

Posted by: Katie Taylor on 7/6/2012 at 2:49 pm

Nelson,
We just found out what your doing this summer! We are following you everyday!
Be safe and strong! We are anxious for clear weather! I wrote to James today to tell him what your up to. He completed Air Assault and has checked into Camp Buckner!
He is looking forward to visiting you at college this year! We loved seeing all your adventure photos from last summer and are so impressed to find out what your doing this summer! Not many people in the world can even attempt what you are doing! Glad to know you and be part of your life!
Thinking of you,
The Kinsey Family

Posted by: Lori Kinsey on 7/6/2012 at 2:30 pm


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff and Team at 17,000’ Waiting

Greetings everyone! This is Mike Uchal from the June 19th Denali Expedition with Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais, and team. We are celebrating the 4th of July here at 17,000’ with fresh coffee and great group stories. We are being proactive at fighting an impossible tent-bound fever with short jaunts outside and hot meals in our group tent, when the weather allows. We’ll continue to play this now mental game as we continue to wait for our weather window for our summit attempt. Please stay tuned Lower 48 and happy 4th of July to all of our friends and family from our team here at 17000’. Good bye. RMI Guide Mike Uchal
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DG,
Enjoy your time on the mountain. I was in court today in Durham and all the Marshalls were asking about you.  Speaking of court—that’s where I’ll be tommorrow, Monday and Tuesday. And I’m not even the litigator in the family.  So, there are worse things than waiting on a weather window!  Bet you wish you had a Kindle though!

Stay focused!
Stephanie

Posted by: Stephanie on 7/5/2012 at 4:49 pm

Hi Uncle mike! It’s grace and sam. Boudro says hi! (mom says its Boudreaux but i dont like like that spelling) he’s very crazy! We miss you soooooooo much. Guess what? Mom’s pregnant! Yay, we are so excited! Have fun!

Posted by: Grace and Sam on 7/5/2012 at 3:22 pm

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