RMI Expeditions Blog
May 25, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 10:2 pm PT
Hello readers,
Today we took a rest day. We watched teams pack up as the clouds rolled in and out and snow trickled down. All day snow has pitter pattered against our tents. For most of the day we were engulfed by all white. Teams rolled in from below and from above bundled up and looking a little weathered. The hope is to move tomorrow but the forecast isn't looking the most promising. It would not make sense to journey through snow, wind, and single digit temps to set up a brand new camp. If the weather improves and holds we will move up, otherwise we will weather this storm here at 11,000' Camp. Send all the good weather vibes our way!
Goodnight all,
RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
May 24, 2023
Posted by: Brent Okita, Andy Bond
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Today our Expedition Skills Seminar Team led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. It was an unexpectedly stormy climb into a big cloud cap where the rime stuck to everything and everyone. but the team crushed it! The weather finely broke as they approached their last break giving them a nice view from the top.
The team celebrated their summit back at Ingraham Flats. They will spend the remainder of the week training in and around Camp Muir.
Congratulations Team!
GREAT JOB everyone! I won’t embarrass someone by naming him but he knows who he is and how proud we are!
Posted by: Donna Medica on 5/24/2023 at 7:53 pm
May 24, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 9:00 am PT
The climbing along the West Buttress is some of the most fun and aesthetic of the whole Denali trip and we got a perfect day for it. We left early, with camp still in the shade and chilly. But we climbed out into the sun within the first hour. The fixed lines, which has been blue blue ice when we first got to 14,000' had pasted in with the last couple days of snow and there were nice steps kicked in for most of the way. We rolled over the top of the line onto the ridge to stunning views that extended forever. We could see trees from our perch (or at least green). We continued along the Buttress, picking our way through the airy terrain will above 14,000' Camp and the Peters Glacier on the other side. By afternoon, we walked into 17,000' Camp. Doing most anything at 17,000' is hard. You have to show down - how fast you walk, shovel, etc. We got a hole dug and left our goodies, then retraced our steps back to 14,000' Camp. The team did an incredible job and got the trip done in 10 hours. We were back in camp for dinner time. Things are set and now we wait for the weather to open a summit window.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
May 24, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 23, 2023 - 9:25 pm PT
Hello again,
It was an early morning today for our carry to 13,500' to cache gear. We were the first to leave 11,000' Camp as we headed up Motorcycle Hill. It's not a casual start as it's quite steep and contains some cracks to step over. Once onto Motorcycle Hill, we preceded to go up Squirrel Hill and then walked across some flatter terrain called the Polo Fields. At the other end of the Polo Fields is Windy Corner and that leads us to our cache. It was a fantastic day with good weather and beautiful views. Words and pictures never do it justice. Once we dug our hole and offloaded our gear it was back to camp. It was a long day and deserves a rest before we break down camp and move to 14,000' Camp. Weather seems to be holding with chances of snow but for us some rest will set us up for success later on. Fingers crossed for good weather Thursday on our move. For now we are going to enjoy some down time in our tents and plenty of opportunity for snack consumption.
Goodnight all,
So glad you all are making good time and having good weather! I’m thinking of you!
Onward!
Adam
Posted by: Adam on 5/24/2023 at 1:37 pm
May 24, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 23, 2023 - 9:05 pm PT
Another mellow day in the books. We woke up late to rest after our big carry yesterday. We made a big breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon before returning to our tents to rest, and prepare to move tomorrow. After spending the day reading, sleeping and preparing gear to leave we had another dinner of quesadillas and crawled into our sleeping bags for an early night.
We hope to check in from 14,000 Camp tomorrow!
Hey Kevin! Sending best wishes for Great rest followed up by Strong Climbing!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/25/2023 at 3:31 am
Reading blogs daily. Glad to know all going well, Matt !!
Posted by: Peter J George on 5/24/2023 at 6:01 pm
May 24, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 23, 2023 - 8:23 pm PT
We had a wonderfully serene rest day today. It started with a prolonged breakfast scramble brunch, transitioned to hours of lounging, and culminated in a few hours of practicing fixed rope travel and running belays. Now we're fixin' for a burrito dinner. Tomorrow we hope to establish a cache up high so we're ready to make a summit bid if and when we get a good weather window, which could come in as little as a few days. The forecast is promising, but we won't hold our breath at this altitude.
We're taking it day by day.
Rich, Happy Birthday! I hope you can get my wish on this way! Good luck for all of you! Dia
Posted by: Dia on 5/25/2023 at 12:09 pm
May 23, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT
We set an early alarm, and peaked our heads out the tent to see what the weather was doing. Surprised to find clear skies above us, we blasted the stoves and got every up for a quick breakfast of oatmeal. After eating a quick breakfast, we loaded up our packs with the group gear, and personal food we wanted to cache and began the first stretch of the climb requiring crampons. Up until now, we have been on a long rope interval, and primarily in snowshoes. From here on out we will be climbing in crampons, and using an ice axe. Just as sun hit camp, we began our way up the steep Motorcycle Hill, around the corner up Motorcycle Hill, through the broken up Polo Field and around Windy Corner. The morning was cold, the wind was howling for the first few stretches but by the time we got to the corner, the wind had died down and we were warming up. We passed the common cache site at 13,500' and made our way up to 14,000 Camp, where we were greeted by other RMI teams. We buried our cache, and then headed back downhill to 11,000' Camp for the night. We made a big dinner of Annie's Mac and Cheese and bacon, and then promptly crawled into our sleeping bags after a long day. The team did great today, setting us up well. We are looking forward to another slow morning, and rest before fully moving to 14 Camp.
Sounds amazing!. Hope you are having fun, Kevin!
Posted by: Jim Boerger on 5/27/2023 at 3:50 pm
Way to go!! Rest up!!! Cheering from Houston. Go Dawny! Go Robin!! And go team!!
Posted by: tiff on 5/24/2023 at 11:27 am
May 23, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:11 pm PT
It was an incredibly pleasant day at 14,000'. It snowed lightly all night but when we woke up it was bluebird and calm. We took our time over breakfast (again) and started to wrap our heads around the schedule and logistics above here. We did an afternoon training session to prepare for the fixed lines and running belays of the West Buttress above, then retired for a warm and sunny siesta. The rest was part of the plan as we intend to head up the fixed lines and along the West Buttress tomorrow to put in a small cache and get familiar with the terrain. With that complete, the puzzle pieces that we have control over will be in place for our summit push.
Happy belated Birthday Juan! Hope you and the crew are safe and enjoying yourselves. Can’t wait to hear all about it.
Posted by: Mike Jenison on 5/23/2023 at 6:57 pm
Keep going Bailey!! Atlas has been shrugging.
Posted by: Stewart Beshears on 5/23/2023 at 5:40 pm
May 23, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 23, 2023 - 9:01 pm PT
Hello fellow readers,
Today was our first rest day of the trip and much needed. Our sunburnt lips and face, chaffed hips, and tired bodies needed the well deserved rest. We enjoyed a casual morning with coffee and pancakes at 9:30 am, followed by lots of down time in our tents. The afternoon was spent gathering our group gear piles for our cache tomorrow and reviewing crampon technique for tomorrow's steep ascent up motorcycle hill. The team is ready and psyched to head further up Denali and get closer to being on top. Camp is bustling with more hopeful people. As per usual we have all crawled into our tents to get settled for the night to rest up for tomorrow's cold early start.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
Corey, hope you know I’ve been gloating about you to everyone lately. Went up to visit some Bilodeaus in VT and they’re thoroughly impressed with your expeditioning!!
Also, the Cubs won tonight. May this power you through the next portion of the journey.
Annanana + Bennington (not Bennington, VT though)
Posted by: Anna Nolan Not So Mountain Explorer on 5/23/2023 at 8:03 pm
Glad to read about the rest…now awaiting the rest of story. Go Bethany. You can do this! Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 5/23/2023 at 7:27 pm
May 23, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 22, 2023 - 7:55 pm PT
The weather was gorgeous today. We retrieved our cache from Windy Corner, so we're all set here at 14,000'. The rest of the afternoon was spent resting and socializing in the sun. Meanwhile, the guides excavated a palacial cook/dining tent for the team. Our plan is to review fixed rope travel and rest tomorrow, taking advantage of another day/night to acclimate to the altitude, and then establish a cache up high on Wednesday. A little weather might move in Thurday, but we're optimistic for a good window for a summit push this weekend.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Sending bro’ support from Tucson to Emmo from Pete and Lisa. Remember your increasingly dilapidated 60 something bud’s are living vicariously through you. Makes us proud just to know you are up there.
Posted by: Pete Eckerstrom on 5/23/2023 at 10:05 pm
Hey Hannah! I am sending all the good weather vibes you and Team Tata need to climb high!!! All the best!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/26/2023 at 3:04 am
Sending you all the good weather magic ✨ So proud enjoy every minute!
Posted by: Allie Bonnom on 5/25/2023 at 4:23 pm
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