RMI Expeditions Blog
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Brent Okita, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,600'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Avery Parrinello turned at 10,600' today due to high avalanche risk. The team had calm skies during their climb, but the new snow from recent storms has not had time to settle on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier making travel above Camp Muir unsafe. The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, WA in the early afternoon.
Congratulations team!
May 28, 2022
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,600'
May 27, 2022 10:40pm PST
Hello everyone!
After a day of organizing gear in Talkeetna, we successfully flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier ready to start our much-anticipated Denali Expedition!
The last few days have been full of expedition preparation. We spent the day napping and prepping to move to the night schedule for these first few days but after hearing the weather, and talking to a few other guides on the mountains, we decided to avoid what would have been a cold windy walk in the dark and started climbing around 8 am this morning. Surface conditions made for fast moving, and the wind kept us cool. We rolled into the base of ski hill just a little after 1 pm Before taking off the boots, we unloaded group gear, and made camp.
The remainder of the evening will comprise of eating some well-deserved burrito meals, deciding what gear to cache, and getting some rest before we carry some of our gear up to 9600'.
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan and Team
May 26, 2022 6:48pm PST
May 24th Denali climb checking in with our first dispatch!
After spending all day organizing, pack and repacking in Talkeetna yesterday, we woke up to perfect weather and were able to jump on the first flight around 9AM this morning. We unloaded the planes, set up camp for the first time and took a quick nap before doing a midday brunch and reviewing skills. With the warm temperatures, we will be on the night schedule for the first couple days - so we've all crawled back into our bags. and plan to wake up in the night and make our first move to the base of ski hill. Glad to be on the mountain!
Check in tomorrow.
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan and Team
Wow—impressive operation! Glad you have good weather and it sounds like you’re right into it. Pulling for you Rob, so keep pushing the protein!
Posted by: Marilee Utter on 5/28/2022 at 10:13 pm
Good to see you are on your way and on schedule. Hope the Weather Gods will be kind in the days ahead
Posted by: Bob Edge on 5/28/2022 at 9:27 am
May 27, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT
Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team
Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in. Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!
Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am
Hi Ken! Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John
Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am
May 27, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:53 pm PST
As we suspected, it was blowing snow off the ridges above us this morning. There isn't much snow available to move, so when you see snow plumes you know the wind is ripping. It sounds like the pattern will change tomorrow so we weren't too bothered. We put some energy into organizing for our move to 17,000', took naps, and didn't mind staring up at the snow plumes above with like minded guides and climbers. Pretty standard activities whe you are at 14,000' Camp.
We'll wake up and hope Denali welcomes us higher tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
May 27, 2022
Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Kiira Antenucci, Jess Wedel, Evan Sather
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Hello world, it’s us the Camp Muir Seminar!
Yesterday, we awoke early, donned our technical gear and launched towards the Ingraham flats to train before the next storm system hit in the mid afternoon. Sadly the storm had other plans and hit Camp Muir around 9am. We retreated in a white out with winds averaging 58mph during our time on the Cowlitz glacier. The storm has been impressive in its power and consistency. It is not snowing so much as it is launching ice pellets at us with high velocity. Moral stayed high as we continued to practice various technical skills in the bunkhouse. The team took brief forays into the violent snow globe that was the outside world to shovel out the bathroom. We were highly motivated to maintain our access to the facilities.
We are excited to find a lull in the weather to head down hill, dry out and enjoy some pizza and beer at the Basecamp Bar and Grill.
All is well - The Muir Seminar Team
May 26, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Winds and a windy forecast continue to keep us posted up at 14K. Today is a bit breezier, cloudier, and cooler at camp. We're still looking at a potentially improving weather pattern for this weekend, hopeful that wind speeds with subside and we'll be able to move up to high camp. We're about as acclimated to the altitude as were going to get on this expedition. Now it's a matter of good fortune if we get decent weather for a shot at the top. That's always a big "if" when climbing high peaks.
There's not much new to report from Genet Basin. The tents continue to stack up here, joining us in waiting for a climbing window. There are plenty of teams anxious for the opportunity to move higher. We'll keep you posted with any changes, but for now we're still in a holding pattern.
RMI Guides Mike, Henry, Abby and Team
Feeling SO proud of you, little brother. I was thinking that pushing your body to its limits in the mountains might be the easiest part of all this; it’s all the other ways that this trip is pushing you that I’m particularly awed by. You’re amazing. Thinking of you every day and rooting for that wind to settle down so you can go up and get ‘er done!!
Posted by: Rosie Read on 5/27/2022 at 12:48 pm
Hang in there guys. We’re thinking of you and hoping for better weather. The weekend starts tomorrow ,, we anxiously await your next report.
Be safe
Jan Beaudway
Posted by: Jan Beaudway on 5/26/2022 at 4:38 pm
May 26, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 - 1:09 am PT
Today started with a classic case of the Denali waiting game due to another snowy morning at 11,000' Camp. After breakfast we waited (mostly packed) in our tents to see what the weather was going to do.
As we waited in nervous anticipation, the only sounds you could hear was the flit, flit, flit of snow falling against the tent, the occasional clang of a pot from somewhere in camp, and the ziiiiiip of a tent opening just enough for a restless head to peek out and look up the mountain.
At around 930 the clouds broke enough for us to see that the winds were not blowing around the newly fallen snow, so in organized chaos we finished packing up and departed camp.
We then spent the day in and out of the clouds which saved us from the heat we have become quite accustomed to trying to avoid.
And now we are all set up at 14,000' Camp and looking forward to some rest after a hard week!
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the rest of the RMI team.
Enjoy your R&R at 14, and good luck when it’s time to move higher! Great following your excellent progress upwards!
Posted by: Henry & Kathy Huntington on 5/26/2022 at 9:11 am
AMAZING! Keep the post coming. They are a highlight of our day. :)
Posted by: Pat & Amy Breen on 5/26/2022 at 8:08 am
May 26, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 10:13 pm PT
As the forecast promised, we watched evidence of wind evolve above us across the Alaska range today, but our home at 14,000' Camp was calm, warm, and quite pleasant. We made the most of it, repairing gear that's malfunctioned, visiting with friends across camp, and napping. Tomorrow is most likely more of the same, so we'll spend time organizing so that when the weather switch flips, we're ready. Yesterday as we headed up, another team that was taking a rest break told us that we "were a Porsche 911 turbo engine". We'll hope to fire that up on Friday.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
May 25, 2022
Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Kiira Antenucci, Evan Sather
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
There we were, finished up with our day of training, enjoying the amenities of the Gombu Hut. A screeching howl ripped across Camp Muir - the wind was here. We spent the rest of the evening discussing altitude illness and taking bets on the high score for strongest gust. Ends up we were all wrong, so so wrong. The darkness fell and our winds averaged 70mph with gusts in the 90mph. Things were knocking, shelters were rocking, and we hunkered down. This morning we awoke to thick solid ice rime covering the surface of our world. We affixed Everest style hand lines to the bathroom. Full battle gear mandatory. Today we will practice the most important mountain skill, entertaining ourselves while the storm rages.
RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Muir Seminar signing off, till tomorrow...
After discussing our options over dinner last night we decided that walking up the Kahiltna Glacier from Base Camp to see what starting a West Buttress climb might feel like. So this morning we started our day a little earlier than we have been to try and beat the heat we have been seeing every afternoon. And it did the trick, we took a cool breeze in the teeth all day that meant we had to climb in a couple of jackets. We sitting in camp at the base of ski hill now taking a respite from the sun.
We are so happy to read this update and we hope you all are doing well. We send our good wishes to the whole team and our love to the Crown Prince of Hungary! Go Daddy! Be careful Daddy! When are you coming home? We hope you like the mountains! We miss you! We love you! Don’t forget to take pictures!
Posted by: Maddy and Gabriel's Mom on 5/26/2022 at 8:10 am
We are so proud of all of you! Heather Heather this is a shout out from your friends who love you so much and we wanted to let you know that you inspire us!
Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/1/2022 at 5:08 am
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