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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Unable to Climb due to High Winds

The Four Day Climb June 6 - 9 spent a windy night at Camp Muir last night.  High winds and deteriorating weather kept the group at Camp Muir and unable to make a summit attempt.  RMI Guides Seth Burns and Grayson Swingle reported consistant winds 30-40 mph with gusts up to 50 mph.  The teams started their descent from Camp Muir around 8 am and will be returning to Rainier Basecamp later this morning.

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Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team Enjoy Views, Climb to 11,000

The Emmons Seminar Team led by RMI Guide Steve Gately was treated to a beautiful sunrise over Steamboat Prow as they climbed above Camp Schurman.  The team turned around at 11,100' due to high winds and difficult trail conditions. They returned from the mountain yesterday evening and will be spending the day at Rainier BaseCamp to complete their training.

Photos: Ben Luedtke & Lauren Macklin

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Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Move to 14,000’ & Set up Camp

Wednesday, June 8, 2022 - 10:43 pm PT

Well would you look at that, we’re back at it again. We walked the same stretch as yesterday but today it was both hotter and harder. The team persevered and marched into 14,000' Camp in good style. It was a long day breaking down camp, moving and then setting up again. After a quick burrito meal everyone crawled into bed for some well deserved rest.

Sweet dreams blog reader. I know we will be sleeping well tonight.

Chip chip cheerio,

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mike!! Both Matt Sky and myself want to remind you to do your push-ups on the mountain!

Posted by: Kyle Davis on 6/10/2022 at 8:10 am

Keep up the amazing work team! I love reading the daily blog !! Miss you Heather Hart! You’ve got this girl!!

Posted by: April Litwiller on 6/10/2022 at 5:49 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Prepare for Summit Day

Wednesday, June 8, 2022 - 8:33 pm PT

With favorable weather for the next few days, we took the opportunity to rest without missing our weather window. We woke up to the sun, and ate a mellow breakfast of oatmeal and poptarts. The rest of the day was spent napping, and adjusting to our new High Camp. With good weather our plan is to climb tomorrow. The rest of the evening will be spent eating an early dinner, filling water bottles, and getting our beauty rest in.

Wish us luck, tomorrow should be the big day!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woohoo! Good luck guys!

Posted by: Jerey Wilson on 6/9/2022 at 12:08 pm

Best of luck as you prepare to summit!!  Hoping for weather and elements to be in your favor :-) it’s been so fun following along on your journey

Posted by: M on 6/9/2022 at 11:49 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Climb Due to High Winds

The Four Day Climb June 5 - 8 was unable to make their summit attempt.  Strong winds overnight at Camp Muir kept the climbers safely inside the hut.  RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Josh McDowell reported sustained winds of 50 mph with gusts in the 60's.  The winds have decreased enough to allow the climbers to ascend above Camp Muir to check things out.  After their walk, they will return to Camp Muir and then make their descent to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the climbers at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Mike/Jess & Team-
Great climb, thanks so much for taking us!  The views were amazing, I learned a ton, and you guys made it really fun, and safe!  Good luck with the Kautz Route Seminar later this week!
-Bill

Posted by: Y on 6/8/2022 at 10:59 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Move to 17,000 Camp to celebrate Nikkis Birthday

Tuesday, June 7, 2022 - 11:39 pm PT

Today we had our second birthday of the trip, mine! We celebrated by loading up the heavy packs and making the move to 17,000' Camp. We headed out this morning with clear skies, but low clouds slowly overtook 14,000' Camp and the fixed lines. We remained in and out of the clouds for the entire climb of the West Buttress, with occasional bouts of sunshine and snow. Overall, a beautiful, tough day on the Buttress. Right before dinner time we rolled into 17,000' Camp, where we set up camp and started making water and hots for a late dinner. The next few days of weather look favorable, so I think we'll squeeze the summit in within the next two days. Check back in tomorrow either post summit, or post rest day!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Birthday Nikki!  We’re so happy things seem to be going well for the team.  Hope Taylor and Emma fixed you dinner last night and let you sleep in a bit:). May the weather gods continue to treat you all well.  Go Team!  Love, the Wilhelms

Posted by: Tracy on 6/8/2022 at 5:39 pm

Happy Birthday, Nikki!  Videos are breathtaking!  I can feel the wind and snow from my easy chair!  Way to go!  Cheers, Jerry, your 3rd level uncle, twice removed!!?

Posted by: Jerry Worden on 6/8/2022 at 4:04 pm


Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Climb to 13,000’, Return to 11,000’

Tuesday, June 7, 2022 - 9:46 pm PT

Welcome back to another fine edition of the Denali blog! Today we awoke to somewhat stormy conditions so we hit the snooze and waited an hour for the weather to improve. Once the sky was looking happy we snarfed breakfast and took off towards the 13k cache garden. The first obstacle was the intimidating hill directly out of 11,000' Camp known as Motorcycle Hill, which was no problem as the team zoomed up it. We then turned the corner and surmounted the famous Squirrel Hill (less long and steep but with more exposure). Next we galloped across the long but flat feature known as the Polo Field! We took our last break at the edge of the infamous Windy Corner, which happened to be windless today! Finally after another hour of walking we were at the cache garden.  Luck would have it that we found an empty cache hole! We tossed our excess supplies in it, covered it up and turned down hill. In the blink of an eye we were back at 11,000' Camp relaxing till dinner time. Tomorrow should the good weather continue to hold we’ll move to 14,000' camp!

Thanks for tuning in…

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Love this Denali blog- keep them coming - entertaining, insightful and much appreciated! Keep up your great work team - we are all pulling for you!

Posted by: Kim on 6/8/2022 at 1:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Reach Summit today!

RMI Guides James Bealer and Bryan Mazaika led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams reached the crater rim at 6:15 am.  It's a beautiful day with blue sky and no winds. After taking in the views and getting all the photos the team started their descent.  They will return to Camp Muir, pack their gear and continue the remaining 4.5 miles back to Paradise.  We look forward to greeting them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon where they will celebrate their efforts and good fortune before completing their program.

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Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Retrieve Cache, Return to Camp

Monday, June 6, 2022 - 11:18 pm PT

Today began with a very difficult decision. Should we eat a full breakfast of cereal and fig bars? Or should we just coffee and charge down hill to the cache where a supreme breakfast awaited? Well the team decided, drink coffee, get cache and then have a relaxing brunch feast. What meal could be so enticing that we would exert ourselves on a retrieval mission with only caffeine running through our veins? Well glad you asked! It was breakfast burritos. Specifically pepper, onion, hashbrowns, eggs, Beecher’s cheese and MOOSE meat burritos. So yes, it was worth the wait. The rest of the day was a mix of napping, snacking, chatting, stretching, reading and card playing. It was an ideal day. Tomorrow we’re heading uphill to cache around 13,000' and along the way we’ll experience a series of classic Denali features! You’ll have to wait for the next update to learn all about them, oooh what a cliff hanger!

Until next time dear reader,

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well that sounds like a Fantastic Day!!  Cannot wait to hear what other gastro delicacies are in store!  Michael! Know you are having a Blast!  Sending lots of love to you and the Team! Go go GO!! Alicia xoxo

Posted by: Alicia Becker on 6/8/2022 at 7:39 am

Sounds like a delicious brunch and worth the wait. I am happy to hear the rest of the day was also lovely. I can’t wait to learn about the different classic Denali features. Thank you so much for these updates! Sending the entire team all the powerful vibes possible!

Ps- Heather Hart: your CBJD family misses you and are so super proud of you and what you have accomplished.  xoxo

Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/7/2022 at 7:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team enjoy Rest Day, Hope for Move to High Camp

June 6 - 4:50 PT

Another beautiful morning for a rest day. Woke up with the sun to a filling meal of breakfast burritos. Weather is looking more optimistic, so we are taking today to rest, prep and pack with the hopes of moving to high camp tomorrow. Otherwise, a generally quiet day at 14 camp.

Hope to check in from 17,000' feet tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep up the great work Aaron and Lori Stafford. We continue to read the updates as they come through, praying you have a successful and safe expedition.

The Penrose Family

Posted by: Will Penrose on 6/7/2022 at 9:50 am

So anxious for you to summit…and get home. Can’t believe your good weather. What are you doing while resting? Great weekend at TOC. Make your own pizza on the Boardwalk with 4 little pizza ovens going. Eat your heart out Little Caesar’s! Then, a Bocci tournament with Bellinis. It got chilly, so I provided the blankets. All is well with your house. Love you.

Posted by: Emigh Litch on 6/7/2022 at 5:38 am

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