Entries from North Cascades
Hi All,
Well, Jim, Joy, and I were hoping to climb Shuksan today but the weather once again thwarted our summit attempt. It rained hard all through the night and intermittently this morning. We had a nice breakfast between showers and then hopped back in tents for the better part of the morning. We emerged from our tents around 10:30 to find threatening clouds bearing down on us but as it was not raining at that moment we decided to do some more training. That has become our motto on this seminar, "Let's do some training until it starts raining". After going through crevasse rescue practice and a lunch break the weather kept holding for us so we got in some great ice climbing and fixed line training. During dinner we watched as the clouds appeared to be breaking up and patches of blue sky made their way towards us. Tonight we are all sleeping with fingers crossed that we get our chance to climb tomorrow. That's all for now. Thanks for checking in.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Hi all,
Jim, Joy, and I had a great day of training today despite some very ominous looking clouds- the rain held off until about 4 pm. We did some good crampon review, self-arrest and team-arrest practice, as well as rope travel on glaciers and lastly climbing on rock. I think Jim and Joy enjoyed the rock climbing practice the most. Now we are in our tents again waiting for the rain to stop so we can hopefully get an anchor building lesson in before dinner and then bed. We will try to climb tomorrow if we get the weather for it; otherwise, we have Thursday to fall back on. We are all having a great time despite the rain, and spirits are still high. Jim and Joy are laughing right through the bad weather. That's all for now.
Thanks for checking in on us.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Jim and Joy you guys are awesome! Sounds like you are working hard yet having fun! Can’t wait to hear this from your perspective and see some photos!
Enjoy!
Posted by: Jordan on 8/28/2013 at 10:03 am
August 26, 2013
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'
Hi all
Joy, Jim, and I are enjoying a restful day here at the lower bivy camp (6,200') on Mt. Shuksan. We have accomplished some training in between showers, spirits are high and everyone is having a good time. Forced tent time is notorious on any long climb and such skills as "sport eating" and "competitive napping" are worth being good at, and we have practiced both today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow for more training and to move camp higher on the mountain.
Thanks to everyone for checking in.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Thanks for the updates. As Joy well knows I like to follow her hikes and treks when possible.
Thinking of you all each day.
Posted by: Jann on 8/27/2013 at 9:34 am
Hi all,
Had a great first day on the Mt. Shuksan 6-day Denali Prep course. Jim and Joy showed up prepared and ready to go. After a gear check, and another cup of coffee, we headed out of town to the Shannon Ridge trail head. We started up the trail with sun on our shoulders, laughing about the 30% chance of rain. After a couple hours hiking we left the trees behind and enjoyed great views of Mt. Baker. With these views, however, also came the end of our laughter as we noticed dark clouds approaching. Though we did get a light rain in the last 1/2 hour before getting to the low bivy camp site, we had a great day. Jim and Joy are in good spirits and staying dry in there tent, currently discussing dinner options. We'll see what the weather gods have in store for us tomorrow.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
August 18, 2013
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
The Sahale Mountain - Quien Sabe Glacier climb led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens was unable to summit yesterday due to a combination of poor route conditions and poor weather. The team spent last night at their camp in Boston Basin and are hiking back to the trailhead this morning.
The Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys team led by Mike Walter was also unable to summit. Mike reported wet, foggy conditions on the Fisher Chimneys route. The team team spent last night at their camp on the White Salmon Glacier and are making the four mile hike back to the trailhead this morning.
August 11, 2013
Posted by: Jake Beren, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
Summit! Jake Beren called in from Mt. Shuksan with an update on his team. They set out yesterday a little later than usual due to stormy weather, but the climb went great. The team is hiking out from their high camp today and will celebrate their success in Sedro Woolley.
Congratulations team!
August 4, 2013
Posted by: Mike Walter, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
Waiting out a rain delay was a good decision at the start of our program. A 6 1/2-hour hike yesterday brought us to camp in warm and dry weather. This morning 100% of our team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the southeast ridge of the summit pyramid! After a short rest at camp, our crew climbed down through the Fisher Chimneys, back to the Lake Ann Trail and to the trailhead.
Congratulations to the Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys team!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Both RMI Forbidden Peak teams reached the summit yesterday! After a leisurely breakfast, they hiked out to the trailhead, sorted gear and bid farewell. A glorious four-day program in the North Cascades!
RMI Guides Jake Beren and Eric Frank
July 12, 2013
Posted by: Jake Beren, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'
Hello everybody. This is Jake calling in from Boston Basin up in the North Cascades checking in after a great day of mountain adventure. Eric Frank wanted to let everybody know that they are working well on Torment-Forbidden Traverse and they were on the top of Torment, I think around noon today. Nice work fellas. Thomas Greene and I are out with James, James and Steve up out on Sharkfin Tower today and heading for the West Ridge tomorrow. So cross your fingers for good weather and we will be checking in tomorrow afternoon. That's it from the Basin.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake Beren calls in from the Boston Basin Camp.
October 5, 2012
Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
The final RMI EXPEDITIONS climb of our North Cascade’s season took place under excellent weather & high spirits. The three of us (RMI Guides Jake Beren and Alex Van Steen, with climber Jim Lumberg) enjoyed late season conditions. The chimneys, gullies and summit pyramid didn’t have an ounce of snow in them, making for absolutely fantastic & fun rock scrambling & climbing. On summit morning, we postponed our bid by an hour or two as rain threatened, but by the time we took off the skies were clearing and we enjoyed an improving day and stellar climbing.
RMI Guide Alex Van Steen
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FLOS3 sends best wishes and we hope the rain stops!
From (also rainy) Boonton, NJ, elevation 397 Feet :)
Posted by: Stef + Trish on 8/29/2013 at 5:45 am
Rain, rain go away…. Glad to hear there are breaks and you have been able to train.
The summit is calling down everyone’s name, so positive thinking that Thursday is the day to get up there!
Posted by: Jann on 8/28/2013 at 10:26 pm
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