Entries from Denali
June 1, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,200'
Short and sweet dispatch for now. We didn't get the summit window weather we were hoping for, so we packed up and headed down to basecamp. Now we are sitting in the snow, seeing if we can fly.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
June 1, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tatum Whatford, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT
We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here!
Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
June 1, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT
Hello trusty readers,
Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am
To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M
Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm
May 31, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 10:55 pm PT
Yet another weather day, we woke up to snow covered tents and cold temperatures. We had our final bagel meal of the trip, paired with smoked salmon. As we sat in and out of the clouds, and snowfall we waited for the other RMI teams to descend from 17,000' Camp. Tomorrow morning marks a decision point. We need a three day weather window to open up before Thursday for us, otherwise we run out of food at 14,000' Camp, and then have to go retrieve our cache from 16,300' and then eat our summit food. Leaving us out of food if a summit window did open up later. Tomorrow morning we should have clarity if Wednesday, Thursday, Friday will be a viable option. The other tricky component is a very large system seems to be slated to hit the mountain Friday, bringing more snow and more wind. This storm could run it's course as late as next Tuesday or so. Leaving us completely out of food by the time weather improves. All that said, with an updated forecast tomorrow morning we may make the call to either go for it, or to grab the cache and get out so we don't get stuck for the entire storm. We will check in tomorrow with whatever we hear!
Proud of you Matt and team for all you have accomplished!
Posted by: Kathleen George on 6/1/2023 at 2:56 pm
Positive vibes headed your way for a good weather window! Keep it up Dawn, you got this!!
Posted by: Kendyl on 6/1/2023 at 4:47 am
May 31, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT
Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
May 30, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
The RMI May 7th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guide Mike Walter, reached the summit of Denali Monday May 29th. The team has safely returned to their 17,000' and will continue their descent to the airstrip over the next few days.
Congratulations to all the climbers!
Hey Mike, Just wanted to say Hello from your old friend The Leprechaun. I made life long friends on that trip. Hope your still laughing.
Posted by: DAVID E WOODS on 3/26/2024 at 10:58 am
Mike Walter: How many consecutive summits is this for you on Denali?! Congratulations!
Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 6/22/2023 at 10:08 am
May 30, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 8:26 am PT
We finally got everything to come together. It was calm and quiet in the morning and we got out of camp early, ahead of everyone else. The Autobahn had filled in and took some work and time to put a track in, across to Denali Pass. It was shady and cold, but the team worked well. At Denali Pass, we stepped into the sun and also a touch of wind - just a light breeze. It kept things cold and we continued to work up. At points we would lose the wind and it would suddenly turn so hot, then back to cold. We played that game to the Football Field, and then up the summit ridge. By midafternoon we were standing on the summit of Denali! The summit was pretty warm and we got some photos before turning against traffic and the rest of the mountain. We retraced our steps to camp and fell into bed, happy to have the first part of the mission accomplished. Now we will set our sights lower on getting to thicker air and the airstrip.
Congrats to all the climbers!
Why do when you can overdo? We love you Chris!
Posted by: Shan on 5/30/2023 at 3:43 pm
Congratulations Adam! Have a safe trip down everyone see ya soon!
Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/30/2023 at 2:10 pm
May 30, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT
Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Hoping the weather cooperates and you are soon on your way to the top! Good luck Matt and team, thinking of you all!
Posted by: Kathleen George on 5/31/2023 at 5:36 am
Hi Leif and Team - thinking of you and wishing you a safe successful Summit climb as soon as weather permits-
Posted by: Erika Whittaker on 5/30/2023 at 5:50 pm
May 30, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tatum Whatford, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th. The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.
Congratulations to the May 9th Denali Expedition!
Brian….So proud of you and your team! You did it!! It will be so much fun to hear all about it. Be safe!
Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/30/2023 at 6:21 pm
Amazing!!!
Now please come back safely!
Posted by: Lyds on 5/30/2023 at 3:08 pm
May 29, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 8:50 pm PT
Hello readers,
Today we woke to descent weather for our carry. It was cold and crisp with clouds flowing here and there. We took off still in the shadows. In not too long we were in the sun with a breeze. We were one of the first people to leave camp and get to the fixed lines. They were icy but with great steps that made it feel secure. This is a steep portion of the mountain and the team gave it their all. After a several hours we were at the top of the fixed lines. There we decided to cache our gear and use the rest of our energy to get down safely. The clouds finally rolled fully in and snow began to fall. We made it back to camp surrounded by white. It has been a long hard day and we are all ready for some rest and that's exactly what we will do tomorrow.
So good night all,
RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland & Team
Lookin forward to more good weather updates! Hope that ramen from the last update is treating you well, it’s making me want some ramen too. Can’t imagine it hits as hard in 75°F weather as it does up on Denali, though. Keep goin strong Corey!!
Anna + Bennett (who literally just had wisdom teeth removed but he wishes you the best in spirit)
Posted by: Anna Nolan on 5/31/2023 at 11:35 am
Hey Hannah! Sending Best wishes and Strength and Stamina to You and Team Tatas!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2023 at 3:23 am
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So relieved you are on the final leg. Congratulations, Brian and team!
Posted by: Lettie Kirk Goltry on 6/1/2023 at 11:13 am
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