Women of RMI: A Legacy in Mountaineering

In the world of mountaineering, women have continually broken barriers and defied expectations. At RMI Expeditions, their contributions have been instrumental in shaping the organization's rich history and culture. As we honor Women's History Month, we delve into the stories of these remarkable women, from the early days at Camp Muir to the present, and explore RMI's commitment to fostering female representation in the guiding industry.

A Female Story: The History of Women at RMI Expeditions

The "Cabin Girls" of Camp Muir

In the early years of RMI, Camp Muir served as a pivotal base for climbers aiming to summit Mount Rainier. The public shelter and guide shelter at Camp Muir were constructed collaboratively between local mountaineers and the National Park Service. After its conception, RMI employed women known as "cabin girls," who played a crucial role in the operations at Camp Muir. These women were responsible for maintaining the camp, supplies, and cooking, ensuring climbers had the sustenance and support needed for their arduous journeys.  These amazing women would climb to the summit multiple times during the summer.  Many of them went on to become mountain guides.

Ingrid Whittaker: RMI's Matriarch

Ingrid Whittaker, wife of co-founder Lou Whittaker, was a foundational figure in RMI's early years. In the early days of RMI, she used a single filing box to do the job we rely on software to do today, keeping track of clients and logistics. Ingrid's influence ensured that the spirit of mountaineering was inclusive and family-oriented, fostering a supportive environment for all.

Paving the Way: Early Female Guides

From the 1970s all the way through today, RMI Expeditions has employed and trained some of the world's best mountaineers, female and male. The list of all the incredible female guides at RMI is too long for this article, but here are a few noteworthy mentions:

Marty Hoey (1970s–1982): Marty started as a cabin girl and earned her role as RMI’s first female guide.  She was a trailblazer for women in American mountaineering​. She guided on Mt. Rainier over 100 times and led RMI expeditions to Denali (Mt. McKinley) and other Alaskan peaks, along with Peak Lenin, Russia. In 1982, Marty was part of the first American expedition to attempt Everest from the north side and was poised to become the first American woman to summit Everest when she tragically fell to her death above 8,000m​. Marty’s pioneering career and legacy paved the way for future female guides at RMI.

Cate Casson (1984-2004): Cate started her career at RMI as a Cabin Girl and quickly transitioned into a full-time guide.  Known for her strength-to-weight ratio and her infectious laugh, Cate was a force, with over 120 summits of Mt. Rainier.  With exceptional people skills; both clients and co-guides appreciated her mountain skills and vibrant personality.

Lindsay Mann (2009–mid-2010s): Lindsay Mann joined RMI in 2009 and served as a senior guide. Based in Idaho, Lindsay guided climbs on Rainier (50+ summits) and Denali (3 summits) during her RMI career. She also worked as a ski coach and guide elsewhere (e.g. Pacific Alpine Guides). Lindsay was known for her strong leadership and technical skills. By 2014 she had over five years of guiding experience and 50+ Rainier ascents​. (She later transitioned to ski coaching in 2018.)

Solveig Waterfall (2010s): Solveig Waterfall started as an employee at Whittaker Mountaineering and joined RMI the following year.  At RMI she became a senior guide, leading climbs on Rainier, Denali (McKinley), and the Mexico’s volcanoes​. An AMGA-certified Ski Guide, Solveig has summited Mt. Rainier 100+ times​. She also co-founded a ski guiding company (Tahoma Ski Guides). Solveig balanced guiding for RMI with personal expeditions – for example, she and her husband (fellow RMI guide, Seth Waterfall) climbed and skied Mt. Waddington in B.C.​. During her tenure in the mid-2010s she was instrumental in mentoring and inspiring upcoming guides.

Christina Dale (2014 - Present): Christina is a lead guide at RMI with a global climbing resume. Exposed to the Himalayas at age 10 (trekking to Everest Base Camp with her father), she fell in love with mountaineering early​. Christina has since led expeditions all over the world – from Everest Base Camp to the Mexican volcanoes to the summit of Denali​. An accomplished ski-mountaineer, she has skied off peaks in Chile and Patagonia and completed a ski traverse of New Zealand’s Mount Cook. Christina now works as a firefighter and continues to be involved with RMI, leading continuing education courses for our guides on the intricacies of what it's like to be a female guide.

Melissa Arnot Reid: Breaking Barriers

Melissa Arnot Reid's journey with RMI began in 2004 when she was hired as a guide for Mount Rainier. By 2006, she had risen to the position of lead guide, showcasing her dedication and expertise. Over the years, Melissa has achieved numerous milestones, including summiting Mount Rainier over 100 times and Mount Everest six times. In 2016, she became the first American woman to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and survive the descent, a testament to her unparalleled skill and resilience. Beyond her climbing achievements, Melissa has been a vocal advocate for women's representation in mountaineering, inspiring countless women to pursue their outdoor passions.

She later founded the Juniper Fund (a non-profit benefitting family members of Sherpas who were killed guiding western climbers) and continued high-altitude guiding worldwide. Melissa’s accomplishments (e.g. Everest without O2 in 2016) have made her one of the most famous alumni of RMI​.

Continuing the Legacy: Current Guides and Office Staff at RMI Expeditions

Leading the Way: Our Female Guides

Today, RMI prides itself on a diverse team of guides, with over 20 female guides on the roster. These female guides bring a wealth of experience, knowledge, and unique perspectives to the team, enriching the experiences of clients and fellow guides alike. Their presence underscores RMI's commitment to inclusivity and excellence in the field of mountaineering.

To get the low-down on all of our guides, you can check out their Guide Bios on the RMI Site.

Behind the Scenes: Meet RMI's Office Staff

Behind the scenes, RMI's operations are bolstered by a dedicated team of women who handle logistics, client relations, marketing, and more. Their efforts ensure the seamless execution of expeditions and the continued growth and success of the organization. The contributions of these women are integral to RMI's reputation as a leader in the mountaineering community.

Autumn Zenz grew up just outside Mt. Rainier National Park in a family of entrepreneurs, where Autumn learned the art of customer service early on. After college, she took a quick adventure working on a cruise line through Alaska’s Inside Passage before making her way back to Ashford. With over 20 years of experience, she’s been organizing climbs on Mt. Rainier and coordinating epic expeditions to all Seven Summits for RMI’s international programs. Autumn is dedicated to creating unforgettable adventures for climbers across the globe and ensures every expedition runs seamlessly, allowing climbers to focus on their goals.

When she’s not orchestrating expeditions, you’ll find Autumn exploring the trails, waters, and peaks around Mt. Rainier—hiking, backpacking, or kayaking. She’s also a dedicated supporter of her kids, always cheering them on in their latest pursuits.

Lacey Meadows grew up in the shadow of Mt. Rainier. Through high school and college, she worked seasonally for Rainier Mountaineering and the Whittaker Family, gaining firsthand experience of the mountaineering world.

In 2008 Lacey returned to RMI Expeditions to run our front office operations for our Mt. Rainier and Domestic programs and handles all things human resources. Her most unforgettable mountain memory was standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro, not just for the breathtaking views but for the friendships forged along the way.

Melissa Anderson Trust’s love of the mountains began at early age and has grown through her work at RMI and as a pastor in the Evangelical Lutheran Church in America. She has lived and worked in Mt. Rainier National Park and in the remote North Cascades, at a retreat center accessible only by boat. These experiences are the foundation for her work at RMI and beyond. Accessibility in the outdoors, particularly for those with Down Syndrome, is a passion of hers; and adventure days with her family are her favorite! 

 At RMI, Melissa is dedicated to helping climbers achieve their dreams. Whether answering questions over the phone or fine-tuning behind-the-scenes systems, she is committed to enhancing the climber experience and building meaningful connections.

RMI's Future: Providing Opportunites for Women in the Outdoors

Women-Only Programs and Expeditions

In addition to all RMI programs, RMI offers women-specific climbs and courses designed to boost female participation. Women’s climbs are offered on Mt. Rainier (14,410’ in Washington) and Denali (20,310’ in Alaska) led by RMI’s accomplished female guides​. As RMI describes it, these “for women, by women” expeditions create a supportive environment where participants can be mentored by some of the country’s top female guides, learning mountaineering skills from a woman’s perspective​.

“The doing empowers them. It opens their minds to a multitude of mountain possibilities.”

Lindsay Mann, Former RMI Guide (mountiantactical.com)

The legacy of women at RMI is a testament to the strength, determination, and passion women bring to mountaineering. From the pioneering "cabin girls" at Camp Muir to trailblazers like Melissa Arnot Reid, and the dedicated guides and staff of today, women have been and continue to be, integral to RMI's story. As we celebrate Women's History Month, we honor these contributions and reaffirm our commitment to fostering an inclusive environment where women can thrive in outdoor careers.