Proper recovery and consolidation are critical yet often overlooked aspects of mountaineering training. After all, building endurance and strength is only half the equation: your body and mind need dedicated time to repair, adapt, and regain full energy. By balancing intense efforts with planned rest, you ensure that each training cycle leaves you stronger, more motivated, and better equipped for the mountains.
Mountaineering places massive demands on your cardiovascular system, muscular endurance, and mental fortitude. During climbs, even minor fatigue can quickly compound at high altitudes or on challenging terrain. A well-designed recovery strategy replenishes energy stores, repairs muscle fibers, and restores hormonal balance, ensuring you approach your next session (or summit day) with optimal readiness.
Key Takeaway: Without proper recovery, these adaptive processes remain incomplete, limiting your potential gains and putting you at risk of overtraining or injury.
A consolidation week is a structured period of reduced training volume—often every three to five weeks—where your body can absorb the efforts from high-intensity training phases.
How to Schedule: Aim for every four weeks (or roughly once a month) to reduce training volume to about 50% of the highest recent load. This might mean cutting your mileage or training hours in half, but maintaining some low-level activity to keep muscles limber.
Note: Feeling anxious about “losing fitness” during a consolidation week is common. Yet research and anecdotal experience show that planned rest increases overall gains, enabling you to train harder and safer in the long run.
Sleep is arguably the single most powerful recovery tool. During deep sleep stages, your body secretes human growth hormone (HGH), repairs muscle tissues, and cements new motor patterns learned during training.
Strategies for Optimizing Sleep:
Recovery hinges on providing your body with the right nutrients. If you’re consistently underfed or missing key vitamins and minerals, the adaptation process stalls.
Focus Areas:
“A post-workout snack within 5-10 minutes of completing your workout is critical to jumpstart recovery!" - Pete Van Deventer, RMI Guide
Gentle, low-impact activities on rest days—such as short walks, stretching, or easy cycling—can boost blood flow without causing further fatigue. This subtle movement helps flush out waste products and reduces muscle soreness, preventing the stiffness that often follows intense workouts.
Caution: Make sure these sessions remain truly light. If you push too hard, your “recovery day” morphs into an extra training session, which can hamper adaptation.
While a motivated approach to training is essential, extremes can derail progress. Overzealous athletes often stack volume and intensity too quickly, leading to injuries or burnout.
Key Guidelines:
After a successful (or even unsuccessful) climb, deliberate rest and reflection ensure you extract maximum value from your experience. This downtime can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on climb severity, altitude, and your personal recovery needs.
Steps for Effective Post-Climb Reflection:
Once you feel refreshed—physically and mentally—dive into planning your upcoming objective. By mapping out the demands of your next mountain (duration, altitude, terrain, climate), you can tailor your training to address those specific challenges.
Tip: If you discovered a particular vulnerability (e.g., you struggled at altitude), incorporate targeted exercises, gear tweaks, or specialized training to improve that aspect.
Mountaineering success isn’t solely measured by summits. It’s also the entire journey—from prepping gear and planning routes to pushing yourself physically and mentally, then returning home with lessons learned. Maintaining balance and motivation ensures you don’t just burn brightly and fizzle out; you stay in the game for years of amazing climbs.
Remember:
Recovery and consolidation are the linchpins of sustainable mountaineering success. Strategic rest, mindful reflection, and controlled training volume not only reduce the risk of injuries and burnout but also sharpen your mental edge. By weaving consolidation weeks into your schedule, optimizing sleep and nutrition, and taking time to reflect post-climb, you set yourself up for continual growth and deeper enjoyment in the mountains.
So, as you plan your next expedition—whether a weekend ascent or a multi-week Himalayan adventure—carve out intentional rest and reflection. In doing so, you’ll heighten your climbing resilience, preserve your passion, and discover just how far your mountaineering ambitions can take you.
High-intensity interval training (HIIT) has surged in popularity for good reason: it delivers significant cardiovascular and muscular benefits in a relatively short time. While often associated with general fitness or sports like running and cycling, interval training also holds profound implications for mountaineers seeking to boost endurance, push higher anaerobic thresholds, and build the mental toughness essential for high-altitude climbs. This article explores the practical applications, historical context, and personal experiences related to interval training in a mountaineering context—plus tips on avoiding pitfalls and balancing high-intensity work with necessary recovery.
Keep in mind that the best type of Interval Training you can do for mountaineering will mimic mountaineering as closely as possible - Footborne is best, bike is close, and swimming less effective for our sport (but maybe necessary for people with pain/joint/other issues that prevent a lot of foodborne training.)
Mountaineering demands not just long, steady endurance, but also the ability to handle sudden efforts—like powering up a steep face, navigating technical sections, or kicking steps in deep snow. Interval training develops both the aerobic capacity needed for sustained climbing and the anaerobic efficiency required for short, strenuous bursts. By incorporating intervals, climbers improve:
Many top mountaineering guides and endurance coaches—such as those at Uphill Athlete—emphasize interval sessions as a valuable supplement to long, slow distance training. When properly balanced with recovery, intervals can accelerate fitness gains and help climbers adapt to physically and mentally demanding conditions at higher elevations.
In essence, interval training alternates periods of intense effort with intervals of active recovery. The structure can vary depending on your goals: Pushing your aerobic threshold higher is best accomplished via fartleks or 4x4 or other longer intervals, while pushing your anaerobic threshold and building explosive strength may use 30 sec to 1 minute intervals. Regardless of format, the main goal is to push beyond your comfort zone, then allow partial recovery before attacking another effort.
While high-intensity training may seem like a modern fitness trend, its roots date back nearly a century. In the 1930s, Swedish coach Gösta Holmér developed the “fartlek” workout—meaning “speed play”—to revitalize the Swedish cross-country running team. This approach introduced unstructured intervals of faster running mixed with easier paces, mimicking the varied demands of natural terrain.
Over the decades, interval training principles evolved:
Below are three primary interval formats particularly beneficial for mountaineers. Each addresses slightly different aspects of performance, from mental adaptability to raw power output.
Fartlek workouts are unstructured intervals that alternate high and moderate intensities, simulating real-world mountain terrain variability. Because steep pitches, uneven terrain, and route changes require sudden shifts in pace, fartlek’s playful format aligns perfectly with mountaineering demands.
How to Perform Fartlek Workouts:
The 4x4 interval is a structured session comprising four intervals, each at high intensity, followed by designated recovery periods. Popularized by Norwegian sports scientists, it’s known for elevating aerobic capacity and boosting anaerobic performance.
Performing the 4x4 Workout:
Ladder intervals progressively increase, then decrease effort durations within a single session. This up-and-down structure helps simulate the fluctuating challenges of a climb—rapidly varying efforts for navigating steeper sections or overcoming obstacles.
Benefits for Climbers:
When weather, work, or life constraints limit outdoor access, indoor cycling intervals offer an excellent alternative. They target the same cardiovascular and muscular systems as running or uphill hikes, with minimal impact on joints—a big plus for those balancing mountaineering with life in the lowlands.
Former RMI Guide JJ Justman shares his personal indoor interval cycling workout designed to push both aerobic and anaerobic limits:
“Here in Ashford, the rain often keeps me indoors. But my passion for high-altitude mountaineering and cycling means I can’t let weather disrupt my training. My go-to indoor cycling interval session is simple yet incredibly effective.”
JJ’s Interval Cycling Workout:
“I perform this workout while watching recorded Tour de France stages—nothing beats pretending I’m out-sprinting Philippe Gilbert! Pushing through these intense intervals not only builds my physical capacity but develops the mental toughness required for challenging ascents like Denali’s fixed lines.”
Intervals push your heart and lungs to work near their capacity, increasing stroke volume (blood pumped per heartbeat) and overall cardiac output. This efficiency is essential for oxygen delivery at high altitudes.
By repeatedly pushing into higher heart rate zones, interval workouts raise your anaerobic threshold. You’ll be able to sustain higher-intensity efforts—such as steep pitches—without significant lactate buildup.
Interval training is inherently uncomfortable. Overcoming that discomfort fosters mental toughness, enabling you to manage pain, fatigue, and challenging conditions effectively during prolonged climbs.
Intervals are highly demanding. While they can accelerate fitness gains, they also stress your muscles, cardiovascular system, and central nervous system. Overdoing intervals without adequate rest can lead to overtraining, injury, or chronic fatigue.
Tips for Balancing Intensity & Recovery:
Interval training’s popularity has spawned numerous misconceptions—particularly the idea that short, high-intensity workouts can replace all other forms of training.
Interval training, integrated thoughtfully into your overall approach, can significantly enhance mountaineering performance. By combining structured sessions like 4x4 and ladder intervals with more free-form types like fartlek—and by experimenting with indoor cycling or other cross-training methods—you create a versatile, robust regimen.
Remember: Intervals are one piece of the puzzle. Maintaining a solid aerobic base, prioritizing recovery, and including strength sessions all remain critical. Done correctly, interval training not only boosts your physical endurance but also builds mental resilience, ensuring that when the steep sections come—or when altitude tries to slow you down—you have the capacity to persevere.
Mountaineering requires you to keep moving over rugged terrain at moderate to high altitudes, often for hours or days on end. In this demanding environment, aerobic fitness forms the bedrock of success. A robust aerobic foundation enables mountaineers to conserve energy, recover more quickly, and sustain steady effort as they push toward the summit.
This guide offers a deep dive into the key elements of aerobic training, showing you how to balance steady long efforts with targeted intensity sessions to elevate your climbing performance. Drawing on principles from experienced mountain coaches and popular endurance training resources, we’ll explore proven methodologies and practical tips to help you build the endurance you need.
Aerobic base training lies at the heart of any mountaineering fitness plan. When you trek up a glacier or carry a heavy pack across steep trails, your body relies heavily on its aerobic energy systems. The stronger your aerobic foundation, the more efficiently you can:
This concept isn’t limited to elite climbers. Whether you’re a weekend hiker preparing for a 14,000-foot summit or an alpinist chasing technical routes in the Himalayas, investing in aerobic base training reaps long-term dividends. According to Steve House and Scott Johnston—authors of Training for the New Alpinism—a consistent focus on “aerobic capacity” is paramount for effective, resilient climbing performance.
Modern approaches to aerobic training often trace back to Arthur Lydiard, the influential New Zealand running coach. Lydiard popularized the idea that aerobic training isn’t just “long and slow,” but can and should be divided into specific workout types:
Mountaineering calls for extended, low-to-moderate intensity output—often with occasional intense bursts (e.g., ascending a steep pitch or crossing a tricky crevasse). Developing a wide “aerobic engine” helps you handle these diverse demands. Renowned performance physiologist Dr. Philip Skiba points out that an athlete’s ability to switch between steady aerobic efforts and brief surges largely hinges on the robustness of their aerobic base.
Reference: For more on how aerobic development underpins endurance sports, see the resources provided by Uphill Athlete, co-founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston.
Aerobic Threshold (AeT)
Lactate Threshold (LT)
VO₂ Max
When a climber’s training program skews too heavily toward high-intensity workouts (like repeated sprints or heavy interval focus) at the expense of low-intensity, longer-duration work, Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS) can develop.
How to Avoid ADS
Ensure the bulk of your training focuses on sustained, lower-intensity aerobic work—often referred to as “Zone 1–2” training. Occasional speed or interval sessions are still valuable, but if they dominate your program, you risk undermining your aerobic foundation.
Steady-state workouts involve maintaining a moderate-to-high intensity (80–85% of your max heart rate, or around Zone 3 in many heart rate models) for 20 minutes to an hour. They bridge the gap between easy, low-intensity aerobic work and threshold-level intervals.
Long Duration (Low-Intensity) Workouts
Fartlek or “Speed Play”
Below is a sample framework for integrating aerobic training into a typical climbing-focused schedule. The key principle: a significant portion of your weekly volume remains in Zones 1–2, ensuring you genuinely develop that aerobic foundation.
Long, steady efforts cultivate mental resilience—a critical asset when conditions get tough. Uphill Athlete cites that a steady, methodical approach to training builds confidence in your physical abilities, which in turn reduces stress and anxiety on summit day.
Developing a solid aerobic foundation demands patience, discipline, and steady effort. But the rewards—more efficient movement under load, less fatigue, and heightened confidence for high-altitude climbs—are well worth the investment. Whether you’re aiming for Rainier, Denali, or a lofty Himalayan peak, a strong aerobic base sets you up for success on every step of the journey.
Keep in mind that the minimum time to improve your aerobic base is around 8 weeks, but gains will be limited. 16 to 24 weeks is a much more effective timeframe for seeing significant improvement with focused training.
By following these time-tested principles, you’ll forge the endurance needed for ambitious mountaineering goals and fully savor the experience of being in the mountains.
When you watch an elite runner cross a marathon finish line, you’ll likely see them point to their cheering squad, coach, or training partners. After a climber achieves a major first ascent, they’ll thank the mentors, rope teams, and supporters who made it possible. Few athletes achieve peak performance alone. In the world of mountaineering, community can be an especially potent catalyst. Yet for many of us—whether due to our location, irregular schedules, or not knowing other like-minded climbers—our training can feel solitary.
In this article, we’ll explore why community matters so much, how to build an effective training community (even if you live far from the mountains), and practical steps you can take to leverage collective motivation. Drawing on sports psychology, coaching best practices, and real-world testimonials, we’ll show how a supportive network can turbocharge your fitness journey for that next summit or glacier climb.
Research in sports psychology emphasizes how social support can elevate both consistency and intensity in training (Rees & Freeman, 2009). When you have friends or teammates committed to similar goals, you’re more likely to:
Mountaineering is mentally challenging: uncertain weather, long summit days, and the inherent risks of high-altitude environments demand resilience. A supportive community helps you process setbacks, maintain confidence, and celebrate milestones. Studies show that athletes who feel socially connected report higher self-efficacy and lower burnout rates (Smith et al., 2019).
Think of your favorite climbing icon—Chad Kellogg, Sasha DiGiulian, Hilaree Nelson, or Reinhold Messner. Nearly all have credited mentors, coaches, or local clubs that shaped their early development. Even “solo” ascents come after hundreds of hours training in a social context, gleaning feedback and motivation from peers.
Living far from the mountains doesn’t mean you can’t find climbers or endurance athletes nearby. Often, local running, cycling, or gym communities are filled with potential training partners who share an interest in challenging pursuits. What matters is forging connections around similar intensities of effort and shared accountability (RMI Newsletter excerpt).
Some climbers worry they’ll be judged if they post “modest” workouts or haven’t summited a 14,000-foot peak yet. In reality, seeing everyone’s incremental progress can be a source of inspiration and empathy. Positive, supportive cultures encourage each participant, regardless of level (Carron & Eys, 2012).
“For some, it may be intimidating to post their workout in an open environment like this, but realize that inspiration from your workout may be just what someone else needs.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
When distance or scheduling keeps you isolated, digital communities bridge the gap. The RMI Expeditions Strava Club is one example, but there are many platforms to explore:
A key to sustaining any training group—online or in-person—is healthy dialogue. Make sure your community fosters:
“…when we post back to the community, our effort can serve as someone else’s motivation, and as a group, we all train harder, smarter, better.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
The success of such a club lies in members sharing everything from easy recovery walks to intense mountain runs, giving kudos, and exchanging training tips—keeping the atmosphere constructive and positive.
Even if you can’t hire a full-time mountaineering coach, you can seek out mentors or experts within your community:
Coaches and mentors often push you out of your comfort zone. From an extra set of squats to an extended loop on the treadmill, structured feedback can yield significant performance gains (Vickers, 2007).
A training community—be it physical or virtual—represents more than a collection of individuals logging miles or vertical gain. It’s an evolving ecosystem of support, learning, and shared triumph. For mountaineers especially, every ounce of synergy can translate to fewer bail-outs, stronger summits, and memorable experiences that outlast any single climb.
“We accomplish some amazing feats, and we also all go through dark days in our training when things don’t seem to be going right. Let’s let this community strengthen us.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
So, whether you join the RMI Expeditions Strava Club, start a local hiking group, or simply coordinate treadmill sessions with a friend across the country, remember: you’re forging a network that can lift you up on days of doubt and celebrate with you on summit day. And in the often-isolating pursuit of mountaineering excellence, that kind of fellowship is worth its weight in gold.
This article was originally written by former RMI Guide Billy Haas.
As climbers we make every effort to be as lazy as possible. We seek to accomplish our goals and objectives with as little effort as necessary, and will cringe at the idea of making something harder than it needs to be. This may seem contrary to the image of climbing as an extreme activity during which many people find their physical and mental limit. However, we often choose objectives that are at the peak of our abilities and thus we are required to maximize efficiency in our effort if we are to succeed.
What I refer to tongue-in-cheek as laziness is in reality efficiency: efficiency, which can be found in every aspect of mountain existence. Whether it be the way a rock climber positions their body on a route or an alpine climber packs for an expedition, success in the mountains involves high levels of efficiency. There some methods of efficiency that don’t directly involve the physical act of climbing but rather things you can do prior to and while climbing that can give you a leg up. I refer to these as “putting money in the bank.” I think that saying came from a high school teacher referring to gimme questions on an exam, but for me “money in the bank” means any techniques or tricks that can give you an efficiency advantage in the mountains.
I would like to share some of the things I’ve learned from my time in the mountains with a specific focus on climbing Mt. Rainier.
Efficiency in Equipment
A great place to start improving your efficiency in the mountains begins with your equipment: what equipment are you using and does it work for you? Place a high priority on critical items such as boots and or packs, and worry less about items such as a fancy headlamp or spork.
For me, a well-fit boot that is designed for the type of climbing I am doing is imperative. A good boot can mean the difference between a successful summit and a failed attempt; blisters and cold feet should never thwart a climber’s chance at the summit. In addition, find a climbing pack that carries weight well and fits you properly. Forget all the fancy features and pockets; a simple and minimalist pack that fits and carries weight well is what I look for. You might be able to get by with an old pack or a warm weather climbing boot, but why chance it? Having the right gear for the task makes for one less thing that could slow you down.
Maintaining your gear makes a big difference too. I regularly spend a few hours taking care of small issues that have cropped up with my equipment to make sure that everything is going to work well when I need it to and not fail when it really counts. I trust my life to my equipment and so do others. For example, I frequently re-waterproof my gloves and Gore-Tex jackets. A headlamp is no good if your batteries run out, and a boot will not work as well if the laces snap. Not every piece of equipment needs to be new, but it does need to work properly. Climbing is too much fun to be hampered by equipment issues!
Efficiency in Packing
With the right gear and everything dialed in, you need to pack it all up. As guides, we seem to have a magical ability to pack 50 liters of gear into a 30 liter pack, but what may seem to be magic is really just some good common sense. My favorite metaphor for packing is “brick and mortar.” Some of your items are going to be bricks (eg: sleeping bag in stuff sack) and some are going to be mortar (eg: puffy jacket).
When packing, also consider multi-use items. A 1/2 liter nalgene makes for a great coffee mug and can also carry an extra 1/2 liter of water when you need it. You want to maximize space and value in your pack. Crampons don’t need a crampon case, since quite often wrapping them in your gaiters works just fine and saves space and weight. Putting some time and thought into a well-packed kit can often fit in a smaller pack. Smaller packs equal lighter packs, giving you a little more money in the bank.
Hydration and Nutrition
With packing complete, there are still a few more things you can do before a climb that will get you ahead. For me this starts with my nutrition and hydration. On Mt. Rainier, I’ve found that from the time I leave home in the morning to the time my team is hiking out of Paradise (approx. 1.5 hours), I can easily sip down a liter of water. Don’t chug water, but slowly sip a liter in the morning and on the bus ride to Paradise. This will help make sure that you are hydrated for the beginning of your climb. Pre-hydration, which can start as early as the night before, allows me to bring less water during a climb (less weight), and helps prevent dehydration. I can recover more quickly, and can focus on other aspects of the climb instead of staving off dehydration.
With regards to nutrition, my best suggestion is to learn your own body. I know how much fuel my body needs at a high level of activity, which is less than some of my friends but definitely more than others. For two-day trips such as Mt. Rainer, I try to be as precise as I can with the amount of food I bring. Start by factoring around 200 calories per break and then adjust from there to your specific needs. In addition to that, bring foods you enjoy eating and can eat while exercising. I love pizza, but definitely wouldn’t want a slice in the middle of a climb. Remember; when we climb at altitude the effort is roughly similar to how our bodies feel during a slow jog. Focus on foods that hold a lot of caloric value. By bringing the right food and bring only the food you’ll need, you’ll save space and carry less weight.
Breaks and Timing
Lastly, be efficient with your time. When taking a break, maximize your time resting and recovering. Get your self-care chores done early and quickly so that you get as much time off of your feet as possible. This applies to getting to camp also. Take care of business first so that you spend a maximum amount of time recovering later. Use momentum to your advantage: we take short breaks so we do not lose our momentum, and when you roll into camp use that same momentum to set up and settle in before you are too tired to do the things you should have done. This might be setting up camp or dealing with a pesky blister; the sooner you get it done the sooner you can rest. Keep in mind that even if we feel great we still need to recover!
These are just a few theories on how to be more efficient while climbing. Climbers are constantly in opposition with gravity and time, so a light pack will allow us to expend less energy, and quick recoveries will make us stronger for the next day. Every bit of money in the bank you can save will give you a better chance of success on the mountain, and will be one less issue to worry about. Learn from others, and learn what works best for you. Take the time to find the right gear, pack well, eat and drink right, and maximize your rest because the climb is not getting any easier and the mountains are not getting any smaller!
Billy Haas guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad for RMI Expeditions. When not traveling to mountains around the world to climb or ski, Billy guides backcountry skiing and teaches avalanche courses in Salt Lake City, UT.
]]>There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes.
On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door. My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises.
Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals.
Aerobic Base Building Phase
During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid.
Intensity Phase
Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance.
My Example Workout
I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:
I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team.
Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling.
Your Go-To Workout
While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals. If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time. Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time.
Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily. Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured. Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb!
]]>Former RMI Guide Adam Knoff originally wrote this for the training blog a few years ago.
Today I was surprisingly asked a question that, as far as I can tell, is as old as human curiosity, parental affection and plain ol’ sibling rivalry. This may seem strange because I only have one child, and my somewhat unhinged three wingnut dogs can’t speak and honestly don’t care about the answer as long as they are fed and played with. As you may have guessed, the question so abruptly put on me this morning was: “daddy, who’s your favorite?” Harder to guess was, who asked it?
Things started normally enough; I made breakfast for my kiddo before packing him up and carting him off to preschool. I fed my dogs and chickens, cleaned the kitchen, and prepared for a day of light recreating before my afternoon duties began. It was when I entered the garage, home to my all important man cave and location of all my beloved fly fishing and climbing gear that things took a bizarre turn. Standing in front of me (I kid you not!) side by side, with puppy dog eyes looking up, stood my 12’6” Echo spey rod and my carbon fiber, oh so beautiful, Cobra ice tools. These sorts of things don’t just happen so I double checked my reality button. Dreaming? No I don’t think so. I have been up for three hours, had my coffee, and still felt the throb in my left big toe where I slammed it into the chest at the side of my bed. Ok, I’m awake. Drugged? No, I quit taking hallucinogens in high school and my wife, I think, genuinely cares about me. Then what? My two favorite activities in life, swinging flies for big trout with my spey rod and ice climbing, which is now doable in Bozeman, Montana, have come to a head. With a few free hours, my fishing rod and ice tools came alive and wanted me to pick favorites. Sheeesh! What’s a guy to do?
As time stood still, I began to reflect on the week long steelhead fishing trip I took just two weeks prior to the Grand Rhond, Clearwater, and Snake rivers. Ohhh, the joy of that trip made me quiver. It made me want to reach out, grab my spey rod child and declare my love for him. 28 inch ocean run rainbows on the swing, the thrill of the next hook up, not wearing a heavy pack; the reasons almost overwhelmed me. Yes, yes, you will always be my favorite!!! Then I saw my ice tools. Hyalite Canyon is in! I can’t wait for the thrill of running it out on newly formed thin ice over a stubby ice screw, waking up before the sun, and realizing this day was bound to hold everything but the predictable. Ohh, ice tools, you are my favorite, “let’s go climb something!” I think you understand my dilemma.
Parenting has taught me much in the five years that I’ve been at it. Love, patience and compassion are always at the forefront of dealing with children. Frustrations always arise. Liam spills my wine on the new rug, my spey rod whips bullets at the back of my head leaving welts the size of cheese curds on my scalp, ice tools rip out unexpectedly and send waves of sudden panic through me that make me want to puke. All part of the landscape I guess. So how did I answer the question, “who is your favorite”? Here I leaned on the invaluable lessons gleaned from seven years of blissful marriage. I compromised.
That day I took the ice tools out for their first climb of the season. I packed them up with the rest of my climbing gear all the while psyched I had just promised my fishing rod we would get out tomorrow. It’s a difficult web we weave, balancing work and play. I honestly felt troubled that I had to recreate two days in a row, climbing then fishing, but then again parenting is also about sacrifice.
As readers of the RMI Blog, most of you are probably cracking a smile but are also curious how this story is relevant to the mission of mountain climbing, training, and/or preparing for an upcoming goal. Here is how I connect the dots: Fishing for me is the yin to my climbing yang. It is a glorious mental escape which allows me to shelve my daily stresses and exist purely in the moment. Everyone needs this periodic meditation to reset and clear the mind. For many, exercise accomplishes the same release but regular exercise does not necessarily constitute “training”. The expectations I put on myself when climbing on my own are very high and the specific training schedule I follow can at times be demanding, painful, and sometimes unpleasant.
Here is where we tie in sacrifice. Everyone’s life is managed by time. Somewhere on that big round clock is time you can utilize for yourself. If you have a goal of climbing a mountain, running a marathon, or bench pressing a Ford truck, you need to prioritize and then commit! Finding enjoyment and purpose in life comes when these commitments are made. Being a husband and father keep me grounded. Being a passionate climber and guide keep me psyched and motivated, and the hunt for big fish calms me down. In the big picture I think I have found some balance. Remember it takes the black and the white, the yin and the yang, to complete the circle. The web you weave and balance you seek are your own, but seek it with conviction and purpose and you will be just fine.
]]>The following article is written by author and former RMI client, Ady Peterson.
I summited Mt. Rainier a few years ago with RMI. I won’t lie to you: it is to date the HARDEST physical challenge I’ve ever taken on (even as a collegiate athlete, and a yoga, barre, and spin instructor). But, I can also tell you, it was COMPLETELY worth it. And I can tell you what got me to the top: the right preparation.
First of all: STAIRS, stairs, and more stairs. Whether you find them at a local stadium, in your apartment building, or even the stair climber at the gym, stairs are a must (I lived in Seattle when I summited, but I’m in Texas now. I know that you might have to get creative depending on where). Put some weight in your pack (immediately) and just start climbing. You can increase the weight in your pack as you get stronger.
One thing that I wish I had known as I trained on all those stairs is the “Rest Step”. The Rest Step is exactly what it sounds like: you take a step, rest, take another step, rest. Over and over at a quick tempo-- rest, step, rest step, rest, step. If you’re not familiar, do a quick search on YouTube for “Rest Step Climb” for a visual. With just a little practice, you’ll have the Rest Step down—it’s a vital technique for conserving energy, and that’s what an endurance climb is really all about. Which leads me to my next training tip: YOGA.
Yoga helped me develop a greater awareness of my breath and lung capacity. When the air gets thin 14,000 feet up and you feel like your lungs are collapsing, you’ll be grateful for your practice breathing deeply and evenly. I was doing yoga about 3 times a week leading up to my climb, and I had very little trouble with altitude. Speaking of altitude—that’s what breaks new climbers down the most. It shows up as shortness of breath (see above), but also as fatigue and nausea.
For these last two, help yourself: pack REAL FOOD—ideally food that you LOVE, so that you’ll be willing to eat, even when you don’t want to (trust me, at times you WON’T want to). All those goop packs you can get at REI are great, but they’re not meant for 2-4 day adventures. I’m gluten-free and vegan, so I packed dried fruit, trail mix, LARA bars (or homemade date balls! My favorite!), and pre-made quinoa. I also had some rice tortillas. Remember, this is mountain climbing, not a walk in the park—calories are your friends: get a good balance of sugar, carbs, and protein, however works for you. I’ve done quite a bit of hiking, so I had an idea of what go-to foods I’d want on the climb. If you don’t, I’d recommend taking some test-foods out with you on a few hikes or stair workouts, so you can see how your body reacts to certain foods or proportions in the middle of long workouts.
Stairs, Rest-stepping, breathing, and food prep. If you’ve been preparing with marathon runs and Olympic weightlifting, these training methods might sound like small things. But then…“It’s not the mountain ahead that wears you down, it’s the pebble in your shoe.” – Muhammad Ali
Hi! I'm Adrianne. I've been an athlete my whole life, starting as a dancer at age seven. Eventually, I danced at the Olympics in Sydney 2000, but after juggling dance and soccer for years, I eventually chose to focus on soccer. Soccer got me a college scholarship, and I played for four years as I earned my degree. After college, I desperately sought to maintain my sports brain (and body) and soon I discovered yoga. Before I knew it, I'd completed three yoga teacher trainings--I've been teaching yoga since 2010! My love for teaching grew exponentially during this time, so I sought other ways to grow as an instructor. That's how I discovered FlyBarre--on the first class, I was HOOKED! I then began teaching Indoor Cycling at Flywheel in Austin and cannot imagine my life without a coaching aspect to it. I summited Mt. Rainier in the midst of all of this and can honestly say it was the hardest thing I've ever done and my 3rd most accomplished (after the Olympics and soccer scholarship). I love the outdoors, and anything to keep me out there is always at the forefront of my mind. I would love to help you on your journey to summit ANY mountain you have your sights on. You can follow me on Instagram @thirtyish_ and check out my blog, thirty-ish.com.
]]>This guide will help you prepare your meals, focusing on breakfast, lunch, and dinner, ensuring you have a balanced diet to maintain your strength and morale throughout the expedition.
Eating at high altitude can be challenging due to reduced appetite and the physical demands of climbing. It’s essential to maintain a regular eating schedule and consume enough calories to sustain your energy levels. Opt for high-calorie, nutrient-dense foods that are easy to digest and enjoy. Staying hydrated is equally important, so drink plenty of fluids, including water and hot drinks.
A hearty breakfast is essential to start your day on the mountain. Breakfast should provide a mix of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats to fuel your morning climb. Here are some ideal breakfast options to consider:
Instant Oatmeal or Grits: Quick to prepare, providing a warm, comforting start to your day.
Cold Cereal (Granola): Easy to eat, even in cold weather, and offers a good mix of carbohydrates and fiber.
Bagels with Cream Cheese: A substantial option that offers carbs and fats, providing lasting energy.
Bacon and Eggs: If you have the means to cook them, they provide excellent protein and fats.
Breakfast Bars: Convenient and packed with energy, ideal for quick mornings.
Hot Drinks (Tea, Coffee, Hot Cocoa): Essential for warmth and comfort, helping to keep you hydrated and warm.
Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day to maintain energy levels. These snacks should be easy to consume without preparation or hot water. The key is to bring a variety of foods that you genuinely enjoy, stimulating your palate and encouraging consistent eating, which is vital at high altitudes where appetite can diminish.
Recommended Mountain Lunch Items:
Dinners on McKinley are designed to be hearty and satisfying, helping you recover from the day’s exertions and prepare for the next day. The menu typically includes fresh food, retort entrees, freeze-dried meals, and packaged items, ensuring variety and adequate nutrition.
Fresh Food: Vegetables, tortillas, and cheese provide a break from dehydrated meals and offer essential nutrients.
Retort Entrees: Fully cooked meals that can be heated in hot water, offering a convenient and tasty option.
Freeze-Dried Entrees: Brands like Mountain House or Alpine Air provide lightweight, calorie-dense meals that are easy to prepare.
Packaged Main Course Items: Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, and macaroni and cheese are easy to cook and comforting.
Hot Drinks and Desserts: Various teas, cocoa, and simple desserts provide a satisfying end to your meal and help keep you warm.
Where to Buy Groceries
Plan ahead and purchase the bulk of your food before arriving in Alaska. Specialty items and your favorite snacks might not be available in local stores, so bringing them with you is best. Some perishable items can be bought en route to Talkeetna, but ensure you have everything you need to avoid last-minute shopping stress.
How to Divvy Up and Pack Food
Organize your food into daily rations, clearly labeling each package. Use durable, waterproof containers and bags to protect your food from the elements. Vacuum-sealed bags are excellent for keeping food fresh and compact. Pack heavier items at the bottom of your backpack and distribute the weight evenly to maintain balance. Pre-packaged portions help streamline meal preparation on the mountain, allowing you to focus on the climb and recovery.
]]>Preparing for a McKinley climb involves physical conditioning, technical skills, and high-altitude acclimating. The summit of McKinley stands at 20,310 feet, and the effects of altitude can pose significant challenges to climbers. Proper acclimatization and altitude training are crucial for a successful and safe climb. This blog will explore strategies and tips for preparing your body to handle McKinley's thin air and demanding conditions.
Acclimatization is how your body adapts to lower oxygen levels at high altitudes. Proper acclimatization helps prevent altitude sickness, ranging from mild symptoms like headaches and nausea to severe conditions such as High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). The key to acclimatization is a gradual ascent, allowing your body time to adjust.
Gradual Ascent and Acclimatization Schedule
Creating an Ascent Schedule is vital to successful acclimatization. This schedule includes planned rest days at strategic elevations and “Cache Days,” where you ascend to a certain height but then sleep at a lower elevation, allowing climbers to acclimate before spending more time at elevation. RMI builds four acclimatization days and four cache days into our typical McKinley schedule. Here's a typical acclimatization schedule for RMI’s McKinley Expeditions above 10,000 feet:
We typically don't do any caching or acclimatization days at High Camp (17,200').
To effectively train for altitude, you need to focus on several key areas:
Physical Training
Cardiovascular Fitness: Building a solid cardiovascular base is essential for acclimatization. Do aerobic exercises such as running, cycling, and swimming to improve your heart and lung capacity. Aim for at least 45-60 minutes of cardio workouts four to five times a week. As your fitness improves, incorporate interval training to enhance your aerobic threshold.
Strength Training: Climbing McKinley requires significant strength, especially in your legs and core. Include exercises like squats, lunges, deadlifts, and core workouts. Strengthening these muscle groups will help you handle the heavy loads and steep ascents on McKinley.
Simulated Altitude Training: If you have access to a high-altitude training facility or hypoxic chamber, take advantage of it. These facilities simulate low-oxygen environments, helping your body adapt to high altitudes. Alternatively, consider using a high-altitude mask during training to mimic the reduced oxygen levels.
High-Altitude Hikes: Whenever possible, incorporate high-altitude hikes into your training. Hiking at elevations above 8,000 feet helps your body get used to lower oxygen levels. Plan weekend trips to nearby mountains to gain experience and build altitude tolerance.
Acclimatization Techniques
Hydration: Staying well-hydrated is crucial for acclimatization. Drink plenty of water throughout your training and during the climb. Dehydration can exacerbate altitude sickness, so aim to drink at least 3-4 liters of water daily while on the mountain.
Nutrition: A balanced diet of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats supports your body during acclimatization. Carbohydrates are essential as they provide quick energy. Bring high-calorie snacks and meals to maintain your energy levels.
Rest and Recovery: Allowing your body adequate time to rest and recover is vital. Ensure you get enough sleep and include rest days in your training schedule. Overtraining can weaken your immune system and increase the risk of injury.
Breathing Techniques: Deep breathing exercises, such as diaphragmatic breathing and controlled breathing patterns, can improve oxygen intake and help you manage breathlessness at high altitudes.
Mental Preparation
Visualization: Mental preparation is just as essential as physical training. Visualization techniques can help you mentally prepare for the challenges of high-altitude climbing. Imagine yourself successfully navigating difficult sections of the climb and reaching the summit.
Stress Management: High-altitude environments can be mentally taxing. To build mental resilience, practice stress management techniques such as meditation, mindfulness, and yoga. Staying calm and focused is crucial for making sound decisions on the mountain.
At RMI, we provide comprehensive training resources and programs to help you prepare for McKinley. Our Expedition Skills Seminars on Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, and Ecuador and Peru offer hands-on training in high-altitude environments, teaching you the skills to acclimatize and climb safely. Our experienced guides will work with you to develop a personalized training plan tailored to your needs.
Proper preparation for acclimatization and altitude is critical for a successful McKinley climb. Focusing on cardiovascular fitness, strength training, and high-altitude exposure can enhance your body's ability to adapt to McKinley's demanding conditions. Combine this physical preparation with mental resilience and the proper techniques, and you'll be well on your way to reaching the summit.
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The McKinley-West Buttress Expedition involves navigating steep climbs, glacier travel, and pulling a sled weighing 40-50 pounds. You will engage in strenuous physical activities for multiple hours over consecutive days, culminating in a 12-14+ hour summit day. The physical demands of McKinley are immense, and climbers must arrive not only in top physical condition but also confident in their mountaineering skills.
McKinley demands physical fitness more than any other Seven Summits peak. The mountain's extreme conditions require a high degree of physical preparation and mental toughness. To ensure a successful climb, especially if you are aiming for the McKinley - West Buttress Expedition, it's essential to start your preparation early and approach your training intentionally and strategically. This guide will delve deeper into the crucial aspects of fitness training and conditioning, ensuring you are in the best shape for this adventure. For more in-depth explanations on how to create a mountaineering training plan, click here.
Begin Now: Initiate a rigorous fitness and training regimen immediately. As your climb approaches, the goal is to build your strength, stamina, and skills progressively.
Customized Training: Tailor your workouts to mimic the physical and technical demands of the climb. As your expedition nears, your training should increasingly reflect the challenges you will face on McKinley. Over our decades of experience, we've developed mountaineering training materials right here at your fingertips.
Endurance Training: Engage in long-distance running, cycling, or rowing activities. These exercises should be part of your routine at least three to four times a week, gradually increasing in duration and intensity. Aim to build your aerobic base over six months before the trip, ideally spending at least 10 hours per week on aerobic training.
Comprehensive Conditioning: Include exercises that build leg strength, such as squats and lunges, and core stability exercises, like planks and Russian twists. Upper body strength is crucial for managing your gear, so incorporate pull-ups, push-ups, and overhead presses. Given the heavy loads, McKinley requires more strength training than other expeditions.
Simulated Climbing: Practice hiking with a weighted pack and engage in pulling exercises that mimic sled pulling on glaciers. Increase the weight and intensity as your fitness improves. Aim to hike for 6-8 hours with a 60 lb pack, ascending 4,000 feet daily, and repeat this several days in a row.
Dynamic and Static Stretching: Incorporate both types of stretching into your routine to enhance muscle elasticity and reduce the risk of injury. Yoga can also be a valuable addition to improve flexibility and mental focus.
Rest and Nutrition: Ensure adequate rest days are built into your training schedule. Nutrition plays a critical role in recovery, so maintain a balanced diet of proteins, carbohydrates, and essential fats.
Climbing McKinley is not just a physical challenge but a mental one. The mountain’s extreme conditions and extended expedition length can test even the most seasoned climbers. Preparing mentally is crucial for maintaining resilience and a positive attitude throughout your journey. Here are some strategies to help you mentally prepare for McKinley:
Plan for Downtime
One of the unique aspects of a McKinley climb is the significant amount of downtime spent in tents due to weather delays. Preparing for these periods in advance can help maintain your mental well-being. Download a variety of books, movies, and podcasts to keep you entertained and engaged. Consider bringing a journal to document your experience and reflect on your journey. Engaging in hobbies or mindfulness practices like meditation can also help maintain mental clarity and reduce stress.
Practice Patience and Positivity
Weather on McKinley can be highly unpredictable, leading to potential delays and extended stays at higher camps. Prepare yourself by cultivating patience and a positive mindset before the climb. Remind yourself that delays are part of the experience and are essential for safety. Practice positive self-talk and visualization techniques to maintain a hopeful and optimistic outlook, even when plans change unexpectedly.
Stay Connected with Loved Ones
Being away from friends and family for an extended period can be challenging. Prepare for this by setting up ways to stay connected. Write letters or keep a journal to share your experiences with loved ones when you return. Bring personal mementos or photos that remind you of home. Preparing in advance to stay connected can help mitigate feelings of loneliness and homesickness.
Develop Mental Resilience
Building mental resilience before your climb is crucial. Engage in activities that challenge your mental toughness, such as long hikes or endurance sports. Practice visualization techniques, from setting up camp to reaching the summit, imagining successful scenarios. Develop a routine of mindfulness or meditation exercises to help manage stress and anxiety. These practices can help you stay focused and strong despite your challenges on McKinley.
Prepare for Flexibility
Flexibility is key when climbing McKinley. Prepare yourself mentally for the possibility of changing plans. Practice adapting to new situations in your daily life to build this skill. This adaptability will help you handle the dynamic nature of high-altitude mountaineering and keep you focused on your ultimate goal.
Build Team Dynamics
Your team is your support system on the mountain. Before the climb, get to know your team members. Engage in team-building activities and establish clear communication channels. Building solid relationships and trust within your team can create a supportive environment that enhances morale and helps everyone overcome challenges together.
Don't Skip on Mental Prep!
Mental preparation is as important as physical training for climbing McKinley. By planning for downtime, practicing patience and positivity, staying connected with loved ones, developing mental resilience, preparing for flexibility, and building strong team dynamics, you can enhance your overall experience and increase your chances of a successful summit. Take the time to prepare mentally for the challenges ahead, and you’ll be well-equipped to tackle McKinley confidently.
]]>McKinley, North America's highest peak, is a dream for many, and as the popularity of climbing the Seven Summits has increased over the last few decades, so has the Denali Dream. However, unlike other world-famous peaks, McKinley stands apart for its remoteness; the sheer physical strength required to drag and carry your provisions up the mountain makes it different from, say, Everest. At RMI Expeditions, we have 50 years of experience climbing Denali, and we're here to break down the challenges and how, with preparation, you can stand on the summit.
Here's why climbing McKinley is no small matter:
McKinley is often the culmination of climbers’ North American mountaineering journey. Before attempting “the big one,” we recommend at least 2-3 expeditions to the Cascades and other glaciated peaks. These will prepare you for the risks and rewards of McKinley's 3-week journey. Here's a suggested path that incorporates some of our most popular programs:
This suggested path is just a starting point. RMI offers a variety of expeditions and skills clinics to cater to your experience level and goals. Our expert staff can help you design a personalized training plan to ensure you are fully prepared to take on the challenge of McKinley. When you prepare for McKinley with RMI, here are some of the perks:
To learn more about climbing McKinley with RMI Expeditions, check out our Program Page.
Climbing McKinley is a monumental challenge that requires a unique blend of physical fitness, mental toughness, and a comprehensive set of mountaineering skills. The mountain's extreme conditions demand that climbers are well-prepared and familiar with various technical skills to ensure safety and success. Here are the essential mountaineering skills needed to ascend McKinley's West Buttress route.
Glacier Travel:
Navigating vast, crevassed glaciers is fundamental for any McKinley climber. Glacier travel involves moving efficiently while roped to your teammates to minimize the risk of crevasse falls. Key techniques include proper pacing, rope management, and crevasse hazard assessment.
Crevasse rescue:
Crevasse rescue is one of the most critical skills for glacier travel. Climbers must be capable of performing rescues from both the victim and rescuer perspectives, especially when carrying heavy packs and pulling sleds. This involves setting up mechanical advantage systems, executing self-rescue techniques, and assisting teammates in emergencies. Mastery of these techniques ensures that you and your team can respond effectively in the event of a crevasse fall.
Crampon Skills:
Proficiency in crampon techniques is essential for navigating McKinley's steep slopes, which can range from 30 to 50 degrees. Climbers must be comfortable ascending and descending icy and snowy inclines. Proper crampon use ensures stability and traction, preventing slips and falls in challenging conditions. Techniques include Duck Walk, Crossover Step, American Technique, and Front Pointing.
Ice Axe Arrest:
Ice axe arrest skills are crucial for stopping falls on snowy and icy slopes. Climbers must be proficient in both self-arrest and team arrest techniques, with and without a backpack. These skills can prevent potentially fatal slides and provide security on steep terrain. Practicing these techniques in various scenarios ensures you can react instinctively in an emergency.
Team Rope Travel
Team rope travel skills are fundamental for maintaining safety and efficiency on glaciers and steep terrain. Proper spacing, communication, and rope management techniques are vital for minimizing risk and ensuring smooth progress. These skills also include understanding the roles of each team member and effectively coordinating movements.
Knots, Hitches, and Slings
Understanding how to tie essential knots and use slings effectively is critical. Knots like the Butterfly, Figure 8, Overhand, and the Prusik, Clove, and Münter hitches are indispensable for securing yourself, setting up anchors, and performing crevasse rescues. These knots form the backbone of safe climbing and rescue operations.
Snow and Ice Anchors
Building reliable snow and ice anchors is vital for safeguarding your climb. Climbers must know how to construct and equalize anchors to distribute the load evenly, ensuring that the anchor holds firm under stress. Mastery of this skill is crucial for belaying and protecting against falls.
Belaying and Running Belay:
Belaying is a core safety skill in mountaineering. Climbers must be proficient in static and running belays to manage rope systems effectively, control rope slack, and protect fellow climbers during ascents and descents. Belaying techniques ensure that a climber can be safely lowered or arrested in case of a fall.
Fixed Line Travel with Mechanical Ascenders:
Fixed lines are often used on steep or icy sections of McKinley. Climbers need to be skilled in using mechanical ascenders to move efficiently and safely up fixed ropes. This technique is essential for navigating the most challenging parts of the climb and ensures a steady, controlled ascent on difficult sections.
Snow Camp Construction:
Building a secure and comfortable snow camp is essential for surviving and thriving on McKinley. Climbers must know how to construct snow walls, pitch tents on snow, and create safe living spaces in extreme conditions. Effective camp construction ensures rest and recovery during the expedition.
Environmental Respect:
Following Leave No Trace principles is critical to preserving McKinley's pristine environment. Climbers should diligently manage waste, minimize their environmental impact, and respect local wildlife and natural resources.
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Climbing McKinley is a remarkable adventure but requires more than physical preparation and technical skills. This blog will guide you through the essential rules and regulations for climbing McKinley and provide detailed information on obtaining the necessary permits.
Denali National Park and Preserve has established rules to protect climbers and the environment. Adhering to these regulations is essential for your safety and preserving the natural landscape. Here are some key regulations to be aware of:
Securing the necessary permits is a critical step in your McKinley expedition preparation. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Understanding and adhering to the rules and regulations for climbing McKinley is essential for a safe and successful expedition. By following the guidelines established by Denali National Park and securing the necessary permits, you contribute to preserving this iconic mountain and ensuring a positive experience for yourself and future climbers.
At RMI Expeditions, we are committed to helping you navigate these regulations and prepare for your climb. When you climb with us, our experienced office staff will help coordinate and support every aspect of your trip, from travel logistics to permit processing.
Ready to embark on your McKinley adventure? Explore our McKinley expeditions and start preparing today!
]]>McKinley creates its own weather systems, leading to severe conditions with temperatures dropping to -40 degrees Fahrenheit and winds exceeding 100 miles per hour. Preparation and understanding of these conditions are crucial, and this is where RMI's expertise in the McKinley climbing season comes into play. We've been guiding McKinley for nearly 50 years, and our guides are skilled in interpreting weather patterns specific to McKinley and equipped with the knowledge and technology to receive real-time updates and make informed decisions.
The best months to climb McKinley are typically May and June. During these months, climbers can experience more stable weather conditions, moderately cold temperatures, and less severe storms than at other times of the year. May offers the advantage of longer daylight hours, and June typically sees slightly warmer temperatures, which can be crucial for both comfort and safety on the mountain. Choosing to climb during this window maximizes your chances of a successful summit attempt while minimizing exposure to the extreme conditions common in other months.
Cold Temps, Snow Storms, and Strong Sun
Despite slightly warmer temps in May and June, freezing temperatures, surprise snow storms, and high UV exposure are all real risks on McKinley.
Extreme Cold Temperatures: McKinley's altitude and latitude make it one of the coldest mountains to climb. Temperatures can plummet to -40 degrees Fahrenheit, especially at higher elevations and early or late climbing seasons. The extreme cold affects everything from your physical performance to the functionality of your gear. Climbers must have high-quality, cold-weather gear, insulated clothing, down sleeping bags rated for extreme cold, and reliable heating methods. Layering is essential to regulate body temperature and prevent frostbite and hypothermia. Proper acclimatization and physical conditioning also play vital roles in helping climbers cope with the cold.
Navigating Snow Storms: McKinley is notorious for its sudden and intense snow storms. These storms can bring heavy snowfall, whiteout conditions, and high winds, making progress difficult and dangerous. Visibility can drop to near zero, making navigation challenging and increasing the risk of getting lost or separated from your team. Snow accumulation can also create avalanche hazards, requiring climbers to be vigilant and knowledgeable about snowpack conditions. Having sturdy, storm-resistant tents and building protective snow walls around your camp are crucial during these storms. Patience is key; waiting out storms in the safety of your camp is often the best strategy. RMI guides are adept at reading weather patterns and making informed decisions to ensure the team's safety.
High UV Exposure: At high altitudes, the atmosphere is thinner, and UV exposure from the sun is significantly more intense. On McKinley, the sun’s rays reflect off the snow and ice, amplifying the exposure and increasing the risk of sunburn and snow blindness. Even on cloudy days, UV levels can be dangerously high. Climbers must use high-SPF sunscreen on all exposed skin and reapply it regularly (or, better yet, wear a sun hoody). Wearing glacier glasses or goggles with 100% UV protection is essential to protect your eyes. Lip balm with SPF is also necessary to prevent chapped lips. Proper eye protection and skin care help prevent high UV exposure, discomfort, and potential dangers.
1. Rigorous Pre-Climb Preparation
2. Selecting the Right Gear
For more information on gear and apparel for McKinley, check out our Gear Guide.
Kristian Whittaker
3. Flexible Itinerary Planning
4. Acclimatization and Fitness
5. Effective Communication and Team Dynamics
Embarking on a McKinley climb is an incredible undertaking. At RMI Expeditions, we understand that behind the thrill lies a crucial question: how to ensure your McKinley expedition is as safe as it is exhilarating. Our commitment to safety is unwavering, and our decades of experience provide a solid foundation for your success.
McKinley demands respect. Here's what sets it apart:
Choosing RMI means more than hiring guides – it means tapping into a legacy of McKinley exploration. Our highly trained guides intimately know the mountain and its ever-changing conditions. They are masters of safety protocols, ensuring a secure and rewarding climb. RMI has led over 300 expeditions to McKinley, making us the most experienced guide service on the mountain.
Safety in Action: How RMI Guides Protect You
Here's how your safety is prioritized on every RMI expedition:
Alongside RMI's expertise, your own preparation is key:
There are many factors out of our control up there, which makes diligent preparation to control all the variables that you can that much more important, as well as the importance of going into the trip with a resilient mindset that can withstand all of the unknown twists the mountain throws at you over the course of the expedition.
- Henry Coppolillo, RMI Expeditions Guide
The Power of Community: Climbing McKinley with RMI
McKinley isn't just about the summit; it's about the journey. RMI fosters camaraderie among our climbers, where achievements are shared and lifelong bonds are formed. By joining our community, you'll gain inspiration, support, and the shared joy of summiting this iconic peak.
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RMI Expeditions
30027 SR 706 East
Post Office Box Q
Ashford, WA 98304
Phone:
1 (888) 892‑5462
Email:
[email protected]
