McKinley, the highest peak in North America, stands proudly 20,310 feet above the Alaskan wilderness. Here, we explore these three popular routes, providing historical context and practical advice to help choose the path that best suits your skills and aspirations.
West Buttress: The Classic Approach
The West Buttress route, often considered the standard route up McKinley, was first ascended by Bradford Washburn in 1951. Its popularity stems from Washburn's strategic planning, which utilized detailed aerial surveys to plot a course that maximized safety and accessibility. Today, it remains the most favored route due to its straightforward path that gradually allows climbers to acclimate to the high altitude.
Route and History
Total Distance: Approximately 13 miles from base camp to summit.
Difficulty Level: Moderate; suitable for climbers with excellent physical fitness and intermediate snow and ice climbing skills.
Historical Significance: This route helped popularize McKinley as a destination for climbers globally, highlighting its potential as a preparatory climb for the Earth's highest peaks.
Climber Experience
The journey along the West Buttress offers stunning views and a variety of terrains, from vast glaciers to steep snow slopes, providing an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering within a relatively controlled environment.
The West Rib: A More Isolated Challenge
First ascended in 1963, the West Rib route introduces a higher level of difficulty and exposure. It attracts those who seek a more adventurous and less crowded path up McKinley. This route tests climbers with its steep pitches and more technical terrain, offering a profound sense of solitude and achievement.
Route and History
Total Distance: Roughly 16 miles from base camp to summit.
Difficulty Level: Challenging; requires advanced alpine mountaineering skills and experience in steep ice climbing.
Historical Significance: The route's successful first ascent by David Roberts and team highlighted the viability of alternative, more technical routes on McKinley, inspiring a wave of high-difficulty mountaineering.
Climber Experience
Navigating the West Rib involves tackling steep ice walls and snowfields, demanding a high level of physical fitness and technical proficiency. It offers an intense, rewarding experience with less traffic than the West Buttress.
The Cassin Ridge: The Ultimate Test
Ascending the Cassin Ridge is considered one of the greatest alpine climbing feats. First climbed by Riccardo Cassin and his team in 1961, this route is renowned for its extreme technical challenges and stunning beauty. It is a test of endurance, skill, and mental toughness, suited only for the most experienced climbers.
Route and History
Total Distance: About 12 miles from base camp to the summit.
Difficulty Level: Very challenging; demands expert-level rock and ice climbing skills.
Historical Significance: The Cassin Ridge has become a coveted achievement in mountaineering, much like the Eiger North Face or the Matterhorn in Europe. It stands as a symbol of technical mastery and daring.
Climber Experience
Climbers must navigate complex rock faces, ice couloirs, and sharp ridges. The Cassin Ridge offers an unparalleled climbing experience characterized by its technical obstacles and the extreme conditions typical of high-altitude Alaskan climbing.
Comparing the Routes: Legacy, Challenge, and Beauty
Technical Demands and Risks
The West Buttress is the least technically demanding, ideal for those new to high-altitude expeditions. In contrast, the West Rib, especially the Cassin Ridge, requires significant technical climbing ability, with the Cassin Ridge being the most demanding in skill and equipment.
Historical Context and Climber Experience
From the historical ascent of the West Buttress to the technical prowess required for the Cassin Ridge, each route offers a unique story and a unique challenge that appeals to different climbers. The route choice should align with a climber's experience, technical skill, and adventure spirit.
Scenery and Solitude
While the West Buttress offers expansive views and more frequent climber interactions, the West Rib and Cassin Ridge provide solitude and close encounters with McKinley's rugged landscapes' raw, unfiltered beauty.
Preparing for Your Expedition
Preparation is crucial, regardless of the chosen route. At RMI Expeditions, we offer expert guidance for the West Buttress route, expedition seminars on the Kahiltna and Ruth Glacier, and climbing and skiing heaven in Little Switzerland. Our expert guides are committed to your safety and success and are equipped with the knowledge and experience to lead you to the summit.
McKinley's diverse routes offer a rich tapestry of mountaineering experiences. Whether you opt for the historical allure of the West Buttress, the daring solitude of the West Rib, or the ultimate challenge of the Cassin Ridge, each path provides a unique adventure that tests your limits and rewards you with unforgettable memories. Join us at RMI Expeditions to ascend beyond the ordinary, where every step forward is a step towards achieving your mountaineering dreams.
