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Hazards & Challenges of McKinley

This article offers insights into the challenges of McKinley and how RMI's expertise maximizes your safety each step of the way.
Hazards & Challenges of McKinley

Embarking on a McKinley climb is an incredible undertaking. At RMI Expeditions, we understand that behind the thrill lies a crucial question: how to ensure your McKinley expedition is as safe as it is exhilarating. Our commitment to safety is unwavering, and our decades of experience provide a solid foundation for your success.

Understanding McKinley's Unique Challenges

McKinley demands respect. Here's what sets it apart:

  • Extreme Altitude: The rarefied air above 20,000 feet tests your body. RMI emphasizes gradual acclimatization and careful monitoring to mitigate risks. We implement a conservative acclimatization schedule and adaptable itineraries to reduce the likelihood of altitude-related issues.
  • Unpredictable Weather: Sudden storms, high winds, and intense cold are hallmarks of McKinley. Our guides skillfully read the weather and adapt plans for safety and success. We monitor the weather closely on the mountain while receiving constant updates from our forecasters off the mountain.
  • Glacier Hazards: Crevasses, icefalls, and avalanches necessitate expert route-finding and glacier travel techniques – skills RMI guides have honed to perfection. Our guides are proficient in crevasse rescue, glacier travel, and using personal protective equipment.
  • The Mental Challenge: McKinley pushes your physical and mental limits. Our guides provide the encouragement and support you need to persevere. They understand the psychological stresses of prolonged exposure to harsh conditions and long camp waiting periods due to bad weather.

The RMI Advantage: Safety Through Unmatched Expertise

Choosing RMI means more than hiring guides – it means tapping into a legacy of McKinley exploration. Our highly trained guides intimately know the mountain and its ever-changing conditions. They are masters of safety protocols, ensuring a secure and rewarding climb. RMI has led over 300 expeditions to McKinley, making us the most experienced guide service on the mountain.

Safety in Action: How RMI Guides Protect You

Here's how your safety is prioritized on every RMI expedition:

  • Weather Wisdom: RMI guides are skilled at forecasting and adapting to McKinley's volatile weather, making crucial decisions that keep you safe. They use two-way radios, Garmin InReach communication devices, and satellite phones for emergency communication.
  • Navigating the Route: Our guides' route-finding expertise and glacier travel techniques keep you out of harm's way, minimizing exposure to crevasses and other hazards. They carry comprehensive medical kits and rescue gear.
  • Strength in Numbers: Teamwork is essential for McKinley. RMI guides foster a supportive environment where climbers look out for one another. More than one RMI team is almost always on the mountain, providing a massive asset in an emergency.
  • Beyond Technical Skills: Our guides understand McKinley's mental toll. Their encouragement helps you tap into your inner strength to overcome obstacles. They motivate and support you to stay focused and positive throughout the expedition.

Essential Tips for a Safe McKinley Climb

Alongside RMI's expertise, your own preparation is key:

  • Train Diligently: Exceptional fitness is non-negotiable. Develop a comprehensive training plan that builds endurance, strength, and mental resilience. RMI recommends engaging in cardiovascular training, strength training, and climbing-specific training.
  • Listen and Learn: Your RMI guides are your lifeline. Follow their instructions closely and trust their experience for maximum safety. Familiarize yourself with essential mountaineering skills, such as glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and fixed-line ascension.
  • The Right Mindset: Embrace the challenge, be adaptable, and maintain a positive outlook – it makes all the difference. Mental toughness is crucial for handling the physical and psychological demands of the climb.
There are many factors out of our control up there, which makes diligent preparation to control all the variables that you can that much more important, as well as the importance of going into the trip with a resilient mindset that can withstand all of the unknown twists the mountain throws at you over the course of the expedition.

Henry Coppolillo, RMI Expeditions Guide

The Power of Community: Climbing McKinley with RMI

McKinley isn't just about the summit; it's about the journey. RMI fosters camaraderie among our climbers, where achievements are shared and lifelong bonds are formed. By joining our community, you'll gain inspiration, support, and the shared joy of summiting this iconic peak.

About the author
Kristian Whittaker

Kristian Whittaker

Marketing Director for RMI Expeditions. Not nearly as skilled in the mountains as my father and grandfather, but I can navigate an ad campaign almost as well as they could navigate glaciers!

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