We implement a safety-first philosophy for our Denali expeditions. We focus on creating a “Margin of Safety,” which creates a cushion between our activities and the unexpected. While mountaineering is dangerous, having a Margin of Safety decreases the likelihood of accidents and emergencies. Creating a Margin of Safety includes careful planning, conservative acclimatization schedules, adaptable itineraries, and diligent attention to detail, especially at high altitudes. We monitor the weather closely on the mountain while receiving constant updates from our forecasters off the mountain. Our guides are equipped with comprehensive medical kits and rescue gear, and they use two-way radios, Garmin InReach communication devices, and satellite phones for emergency communication.

RMI has a general success rate of 61.5% since 2013. If you factor our unsuccessful summits due to factors outside of our control (weather, route conditions, emergencies, etc.) we have an incredible 74.9% success rate. According to statistics from Denali National Park, the average success rate on the West Buttress (including both guided climbs and independent climbers) is 55.6% since 2013. Unlike other guide services, RMI does not have a hard “fly-off date” that forces an early end to the expedition. This flexibility ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent, contributing to our high success rate.

RMI guides for the West Buttress Denali expedition hold various certifications to ensure your safety and provide expert guidance throughout the climb. These certifications include:

• Alpine Skills - AMGA or Equivalent: RMI guides possess advanced alpine skills, including glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and technical climbing, which are included in the AMGA Alpine Guide track.
• Alpine Leave No Trace (LNT): Guides are trained in Alpine Leave No Trace principles to minimize environmental impact and educate climbers on sustainable practices in alpine environments.
• LNT Level II Instructor: Some guides are certified as Level II Instructors, enabling them to effectively teach and enforce LNT principles.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Guides are proficient in properly using and managing personal protective equipment, ensuring climbers' safety during technical climbs.
• Avalanche Level II (AVY Level II): This certification equips guides with advanced knowledge of avalanche hazards, enabling them to assess snow conditions, make informed decisions, and conduct necessary rescues.
• Wilderness First Responder (WFR), Emergency Medical Technician (EMT), or Wilderness EMT (WEMT): These medical certifications ensure guides can provide comprehensive first aid and emergency care in remote environments.
• Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR): Guides are trained in CPR to handle cardiac emergencies promptly and effectively.

RMI is one of North America's oldest and most trusted guide services, with 50 years of experience guiding on Denali. The head of our Denali office team, Joe Horiskey, led his first Denali expedition for RMI in 1975 and still plays a major role in logistics and planning each year.

Experience matters when you’re gunning for any peak, but especially when that peak is one of the Seven Summits, and the highest in North America. RMI Guides benefit from that deep well of experience, learning the ins and outs of Denali from pros like Joe, while staying at the cutting edge of alpine mountaineering techniques. Our office team benefits, too, with 50 years of logistics and planning experience to ensure every expedition runs smoothly.

When you climb with RMI, you climb with the more experienced guide service on Denali.

Once you register for your Denali climb, the RMI Office will be with you every step before, during, and after your climb. You’ll have access to 50 years of Denali expertise, informing you on everything from gear recommendations to suggested training regimens to travel planning assistance.

The head of our Denali office team, Joe Horiskey, guided the first-ever RMI Expeditions climb on the West Buttress in 1975 and has been an integral part of the experience ever since.

Here are some additional details about the logistical support you will receive from the RMI office:

• Expedition Planning: The RMI office will help you plan your Denali expedition, including choosing the right itinerary, dates, and guides. If you have questions at any point, our office of professionals (including RMI Guides, who have stood on top of Denali multiple times) is at your fingertips.
• Travel Plans: The RMI office can help you book your flights, accommodations, and transportation to and from Denali. They can also help you arrange visas and other travel documents.
• Training: The RMI office can provide information about training for Denali and help you find the right program. As part of your pre-climb experience, RMI has partnered with Uphill Athlete to get you in “peak” mountaineering shape.
• Permits: Denali National Park requires all climbers to obtain a permit before climbing Denali. The RMI office can help you acquire the necessary permits and ensure that you meet all of the park's requirements.

RMI ensures environmental sustainability on Denali through several key practices:

• Leave No Trace Principles: RMI guides are trained in Leave No Trace (LNT) principles to minimize the impact on the natural environment. This includes careful waste management, reducing camp impacts, and educating climbers on sustainable practices. RMI has pioneered alpine Leave No Trace principles and, in 2002, was the first guided expedition to pack out all of our Trash on Denali.
• Environmental Education: Each Denali expedition will include a guide who has a minimum LNT Level II certification. Guides also educate team members on the importance of preserving the natural environment, ensuring that each participant understands and follows best practices for environmental stewardship.
• Carbon Neutral Expeditions: All expeditions in Denali National Park are 100% carbon neutral. RMI partners with Ostrom Climate to offset greenhouse gas emissions, ensuring our operations do not contribute to net carbon emissions.

RMI Expeditions has earned several notable awards and recognitions in the mountaineering community. In 2014, Outside Magazine named us "Best Outfitter" in their Travel Awards, highlighting our excellence in guided mountain expeditions and client service.

Our significant partnership with the Leave No Trace (LNT) Center for Outdoor Ethics also contributed to developing the first-ever LNT Alpine Mountaineering guidelines, officially adopted in 2011​. This commitment to environmental stewardship and ethical climbing practices further underscores our respected position within the mountaineering community.

Our history of guiding successful climbs has also contributed to our recognition. We have led more than 300 expeditions to Denali, establishing ourselves as the most experienced guide service on the mountain​. Our guides have often served as VIPs (Volunteers in Park) to assist Denali climbing rangers in rescues, and several have even been Denali climbing rangers themselves. Additionally, multiple guides have been awarded “Pro Pins” for helping out with rescues on Denali, and in 2001, an RMI team was awarded the Mislow-Swanson Denali Pro Award for a rescue.

Furthermore, our involvement in significant charity work, such as the Climb for Clean Air fundraiser supporting the American Lung Association, has raised millions of dollars over the years​​.

These accolades and initiatives reflect our dedication to safety, expertise, and environmental responsibility, cementing our reputation as a leading guide service in the mountaineering world.

RMI handles emergencies or evacuations on Denali with a comprehensive approach that includes:

• Highly Trained Guides: All guides are certified in wilderness medicine and have extensive experience in high-altitude environments.
• Emergency Equipment: Teams carry essential medical equipment, including satellite phones and emergency equipment.
• Detailed Evacuation Plans: RMI has established protocols and plans for various emergency scenarios, ensuring swift and effective responses.
• Relationship with Denali NPS Rangers: Over our years of guiding in the park, RMI has fostered a great working relationship with Denali National Park Service Rangers (the primary respondents to on-mountain emergencies).
• Team Collaboration: RMI Expeditions almost always has more than one Denali team on the mountain concurrently, providing a massive asset in an emergency. If something were to happen, it is part of RMI’s emergency response plan to respond with all available teams.

Denali is unique in expedition mountaineering in that your entire climb is self-supported, meaning there are no porters, mules, or cached supply points. You’ll start the expedition by hauling a 40-50 lbs sled and your backpack (60-80lbs) from Base Camp to higher camps. On the mountain, you’ll climb between camps multiple times to acclimate and cache gear in the weeks before your summit push. RMI recommends a comprehensive training program that includes:

• Cardiovascular Training: Engage in running, cycling, and hiking to build endurance. At a minimum, climbers should be building their aerobic base for 6 months before the trip to see tangible physiological benefits, ideally spending a minimum of 10 hours per week on aerobic training.
• Strength Training: Focus on exercises that strengthen the legs, core, and upper body, and balance-focused exercise and training. Given the heavy loads, Denali requires more strength training than other expeditions, and this training can also assist with injury prevention over the long climb.
• Climbing-specific training: Practice with a weighted pack and train with it in steep, uneven terrain as much as possible.
• High-Altitude Conditioning: If possible, spend time at high altitudes to acclimate your body. Other ways of training for altitude include VO2 max intervals, heat exposure training, and personal-use altitude training equipment.

For detailed training guidelines, visit our Route to Denali training resource.

To determine if you're physically ready for the Denali climb, RMI recommends the following steps:

• Self-Assessment: Reflect on your overall fitness, endurance, and high-altitude experience. You should be comfortable with prolonged physical activity and carrying heavy loads. Uphill Athlete has an aerobic self-assessment for mountain athletes, which is a more technical metric.
• Training Milestones: You should be able to hike for 6-8 hours with a 60 lb pack, ascend 4,000 feet daily, and repeat this several days in a row
• Medical Check: A thorough examination can confirm your fitness level and identify potential health concerns.
• Consultation with Guides: RMI staff can provide personalized feedback based on your training progress and physical condition, helping you assess your readiness accurately. As an RMI Expeditions client, you also get access to discounted training from the coaches at Uphill Athlete.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route is a significant challenge requiring a solid mountaineering foundation. Many RMI Guides consider it the most challenging of the Seven Summits, and as a climber, you should be confident in your skill level before attempting Denali. Guides will review necessary topics during the trip, but it should not be your first hearing about these skills. For an in-depth look at Denali's recommended path, check out our resource here.

RMI requires a certain level of skill and experience, including familiarity with:

• Glacier travel experience
• Summit day that exceeds 10 - 12 hours
• Experience at altitudes above 14,000'
• Familiarity with the skills needed for a cold, remote, and heavily glaciated peak
• Crampon skills on 30 - 50 degree slopes
• Team rope travel skills
• Knots & slings - Prusik, butterfly, Münter, etc.
• Snow and ice anchors (construction & equalization)
• Belaying and running belay experience
• Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuer perspectives, and considering heavy packs and sleds)
• Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
• Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
• Snow camp construction

In addition to these requirements, most climbers who successfully summit Denali have the following skills and experience:

Previous Climbing Experience:Prospective climbers should have experience with multi-day expeditions and winter camping. You should be comfortable spending several weeks in a tent, cooking outdoors, and dealing with the rigors of cold-weather camping. This experience helps prepare climbers for the extended duration and challenging conditions of a Denali expedition.

Technical Skills:Proficiency in climbing skills is crucial. This includes glacier travel, crevasse rescue, fixed line ascension, and proficiency with ice axe and crampon techniques. These skills are essential for safely navigating Denali's crevassed terrain. RMI offers several programs to help climbers develop these skills, such as our Expedition Skills Seminars, which introduce critical techniques like self-arrest, rope travel, and managing cold weather conditions.

High-Altitude Experience:Denali’s summit stands at 20,310 feet, and climbers must be prepared for the challenges of high-altitude climbing. We suggest participating in high-altitude climbs such as the Peru or Ecuador Seminars, where climbers can gain experience on peaks above 18,000 feet. This helps you understand how your body reacts to altitude and improves your ability to acclimatize.

Physical Fitness:Excellent physical condition is mandatory. Climbers must have the stamina and strength to carry heavy packs (60-80 lbs) over steep, snowy/icy terrain for extended periods. Cardiovascular fitness, leg strength, balance, and endurance are particularly important. RMI provides training plans to help climbers physically prepare for Denali's demands.

Psychological Readiness:Climbing Denali is not just a physical challenge but also a mental one. Climbers must be prepared to deal with the psychological stresses of prolonged exposure to harsh conditions, physical exhaustion, and the mental fortitude required to push through tough situations. Downtime poses its own risks, with long days spent in tents, especially during inclement weather. Be sure to bring plenty of reading, listening, or watching material to keep you occupied, and practice mindful techniques in the months leading up to your expedition to prepare for potential boredom.

Yes, crevasse rescue training is required for West Buttress Denali expedition participants. Proficiency in crevasse rescue is essential due to the extensive glaciated terrain on Denali. Participants must be comfortable with rope travel and have the skills to perform self-rescue and assist others in crevasse rescue situations. This training ensures climbers can safely navigate the challenging glacier environment and respond effectively in emergencies.

The best time to climb Denali via the West Buttress route is during the peak climbing season, which runs from early May to early July. This period offers the most stable weather conditions and longer daylight hours, which are critical for a successful and safe climb. During these months, temperatures are slightly warmer, and the weather is generally more predictable than earlier or later in the season. Additionally, the extended daylight provides more flexibility in day to day climbing plans. For more detailed information and to choose the best dates for your expedition, check out our Resources Page.

Over the last 10 years of data, the average age of participants was 42. ⅓ of climbers were between 35 and 44, with nearly everyone else bookending between 25 and 54. 24% were 25-34, and 24% were 45-54. You must be at least 18 years old to climb Denali with RMI Expeditions.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, climbers must arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m. at the Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1. If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., arriving a day earlier and meeting the team at the airport the following day will be necessary.

Given the flexibility of the expedition's itinerary, you must allow 30 days to complete the expedition door-to-door. We do not have a set end date to fly off the mountain, which is extremely beneficial for your summit chances, but also means you may not be off the mountain in 21 days. If you don’t schedule enough time for the Denali experience, you risk missing whatever it is you have going on back at home, as the expedition will not end early for any single person.

You should purchase a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK to start your trip. For your return, you can either buy a ticket with a flexible return date or purchase your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. This approach helps avoid the risk of missing an early return flight or dealing with an open-ended ticket.

For more detailed information, visit the Travel Section of our program page.

To reach Denali Basecamp for the West Buttress route, participants follow a coordinated travel plan organized by RMI Expeditions:

• Arrival in Anchorage: Arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m. at the Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.
• Travel to Talkeetna: The team will travel together from Anchorage to Talkeetna, a small town that serves as the staging point for Denali expeditions. The journey from Anchorage to Talkeetna is by shuttle and RMI will arrange the necessary transportation.
• Flight to Base Camp: In Talkeetna, climbers will undergo a final gear check and briefing. Weather permitting, the team will fly from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier, where Denali Basecamp is located. The flight to Basecamp is approximately 45 minutes and offers stunning views of the Alaskan Range. We fly with K2 Aviation and are the only guide service that does so, so we get priority treatment.

This organized approach ensures that climbers are well-prepared and supported from their arrival in Anchorage to their arrival at Denali Basecamp.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, you should bring the following documents:

• Government-Issued ID or Passport: A valid government-issued photo ID (such as a driver’s license) or passport is required for identification purposes. A passport is necessary if you are traveling from outside the United States.
• Climbing Permits: You must bring printed copies of your climbing permit and National Park Entry Permit. We advise you to also bring printed receipts proving your purchase of both permits.
• Travel Insurance Information: Bring copies of your travel insurance policy details, including coverage specifics and emergency contact numbers.
• Medical Information: Any pertinent medical information, including health insurance cards, a list of current medications, and any medical conditions that guides should be aware of.
• Flight Information: Copies of your itineraries to and from Anchorage and any hotel reservations in Anchorage and Talkeetna.
• Emergency Contact Information: A list of emergency contacts guides can reach in an emergency.

Having these documents organized and easily accessible will help ensure a smooth and stress-free start to your expedition. Additionally, K2 Aviation has a system where you can leave important documents and wallets in sealed bags kept in their safe before flying to base camp.

Before embarking on the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, it is essential to ensure you are in good health and take the necessary medical precautions:

• Routine Vaccinations: Ensure that your routine vaccinations are up to date. This includes vaccines for measles, mumps, rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis (DTaP), varicella (chickenpox), polio, and the annual flu shot.
• COVID-19: Stay informed about current COVID-19 guidelines and ensure you are vaccinated as per the latest recommendations.
• Tetanus Booster: A tetanus booster is recommended if you haven't had one in the last 10 years.
• Travel Health Precautions: Consult with your healthcare provider about any additional travel health precautions specific to Alaska. This may include medications for high-altitude acclimatization, such as acetazolamide (Diamox), which can help prevent altitude sickness.

International participants joining the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI Expeditions must meet U.S. visa requirements. Here are the key points to consider:

• Visa Type: Most international climbers will need a B-2 Tourist Visa to enter the United States for tourism, including participating in mountaineering expeditions.
• Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Citizens of countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program (VWP) may be eligible to travel to the U.S. for tourism without a visa for up to 90 days. Before entering the U.S, travelers must apply for authorization through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA).

Application Process

• Applying for Visas: Apply for a B-2 visa at your home country's U.S. Embassy or Consulate. The process typically includes completing the DS-160 form, paying the visa fee, and attending a visa interview. If eligible for the VWP, apply for ESTA online. The application process involves filling out an online form and paying a fee.
• Documentation: Ensure you have the necessary documentation, including a valid passport, visa or ESTA approval, proof of financial stability, travel itinerary, and any other supporting documents required by the U.S. Embassy or Consulate.
• Timing: Apply for your visa or ESTA well in advance of your travel date to account for processing times and any potential delays.

For more detailed information on U.S. visa requirements and to verify if your country is part of the VWP, visit the official U.S. Department of State website or consult with the U.S. Embassy or Consulate in your country.

Besides the comprehensive pre-trip support by our experienced office staff, the expedition fee for the West Buttress Denali climb includes various services and equipment to support your journey. Here's what is covered:

• RMI Leadership: The expertise and guidance of experienced RMI guides throughout the expedition.
• Pre-trip Transportation: Transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna as outlined in the itinerary, as well as bush pilot services via K2 Aviation between Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base Camp.
• Pre-trip Accommodations: Two nights of accommodation in Talkeetna at the start of the trip, providing a comfortable place to rest and prepare. All rates are based on double occupancy; if you would like to request single occupancy accommodation, you may do so for an additional cost.
• Meals: Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain, ensuring you have nutritious meals to sustain your energy levels, as well as a variety of drink options (cider, tea, hot cocoa, etc.)
• Group Gear: Essential group gear includes tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, fuel, and other communal items.

In addition to the expedition fee for the West Buttress Denali climb, participants should budget for several additional expenses:

• Initial Travel Costs: Airfare to and from Anchorage, Alaska, and transportation back to Anchorage from Talkeetna. One-way transportation costs approximately $100 per person. RMI provides transportation to Talkeetna from Anchorage and round-trip chartered flights to Denali base camp.
• Post-trip Accomodation: Hotel stays after the expedition. RMI provides accommodation in Talkeetna before the climb, and the office can help you find accommodation options and coordinate with other climbers. However, we recommend not booking your accommodation before your climb, as the exact time you’re on the mountain will vary. Additionally, pre-climb accommodation costs are based on double occupancy; if you would like a single room, you will be charged the additional cost.
• Certain Meals: Meals in Anchorage and Talkeetna are not included in the expedition. Neither are on-mountain lunches and snacks; however, the RMI Office will send you plenty of material to help create the perfect “Meal Plan” while you’re on the mountain. On-mountain breakfasts and dinners are included in the landed cost. For more info, see our Food Resources page.
• Permits: You must purchase a Denali Climbing Permit ($430 per person) and a National Park Entrance Fee ($15 per person). The RMI Office will help coordinate these purchases during your pre-trip planning.
• Individual Gear: Purchase or rental of necessary climbing gear. RMI clients get a discount with our partner company, Whittaker Mountaineering, where you can buy or rent everything you need for Denali. We also supply group gear such as sleds, tents, cooking, and rescue equipment.
• Personal Expenses: Miscellaneous personal expenses and gratuities for guides.

Tipping your guide is customary and appreciated as it recognizes the hard work and dedication they provide during the expedition. While tipping is not mandatory, it is a great way to show gratitude for their expertise, support, and efforts in ensuring a safe and successful climb. The amount can vary based on your satisfaction with the service and your budget. Generally, tips are given at the end of the expedition, and the recommended range is a personal choice, often influenced by the length and difficulty of the climb. If you need a starting point, 10-20% of your expedition cost is industry standard.

RMI recommends comprehensive travel insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering for the West Buttress Denali expedition. This should include:

• Trip Cancellation and Interruption: To cover non-refundable expenses in case of trip cancellation or delays.
• Emergency Medical: Essential for covering medical treatment. The climbing permit purchased through the NPS covers the cost of a SAR (Search and Rescue) operation on the mountain, so your insurance doesn’t need to cover Evacuation but should cover any potential medical followup.
• Baggage and Gear Insurance: To protect against equipment loss, theft, or damage.

RMI recommends Travelex Insurance or Ripcord Insurance as trusted insurance providers. If you decide to use your provider, ensure your policy includes these coverages specifically for mountaineering activities at high altitudes.

RMI Expeditions has a clear refund and cancellation policy for the West Buttress Denali expedition. Please see our Policies section for more information.

Alaskan weather conditions can be unpredictable, and flights into and out of Denali base camp are often subject to delays. RMI Expeditions has protocols in place to handle such situations:

• Delays into Base Camp: If weather prevents the flight into Base Camp, the team will remain in Talkeetna until conditions improve. During this time, guides will conduct additional training sessions and gear checks to prepare for the climb. Participants should be prepared for potential delays, but be aware that delays getting into Base Camp will not detract from your on-mountain days due to RMI’s flexible program schedule.
• Delays out of Base Camp: If weather delays the flight out of Base Camp, the team will stay in place until conditions allow for a safe departure. Guides will ensure climbers have adequate supplies and support during the extended stay, and RMI has up to 10 days' worth of supplies and food cached at Base Camp for this very reason.

RMI regularly communicates with K2 Aviation and the National Park Service to stay updated on weather conditions and availability. We will also keep participants informed about any changes or updates regarding the schedule. Safety is the top priority, and all flight decisions are made with this in mind. K2 Aviation, our longtime partner, will make this call and has decades of experience flying into and out of Denali Base Camp. RMI relies on K2 to make safe decisions about flying, the same way that you rely on RMI’s guides to make safe decisions in the mountains. RMI’s experienced guides will ensure that all measures are taken to provide a safe and comfortable experience during weather-related delays.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route involves encountering a wide range of weather conditions and temperatures, which can be extreme and unpredictable. Here's what you can expect:

Temperatures

• Base Camp (7,200 feet): During the climbing season, temperatures can range from 0°F to 60°F (-6°C to 4°C). Warm weather isn’t usually at the top of one's mind on Alaskan expeditions, but the thin air and high sun can be just as uncomfortable as the cold if not handled properly.
• Higher Elevations (up to 20,310 feet): Expect much colder temperatures. Summit temperatures can plummet to -20°F to -40°F (-29°C to -40°C) or even lower, and wind chills can make it feel significantly colder.

Weather Conditions

• Cold and Wind: The higher you climb, the colder and windier it becomes. Winds can be very strong, especially on exposed ridges near the summit, potentially exceeding 50 mph (80 kph).
• Snow: Snowfall can occur anytime, and heavy snowstorms are common. Fresh snow can create avalanche hazards and make progress more difficult.
• Sun and UV Exposure:: Clear days at high altitudes mean intense sun and UV exposure. Sunscreen, glacier glasses, and proper clothing are essential to prevent sunburn and snow blindness. It can also feel extremely hot on the lower glacier (even though actual temps are low), with no way of hiding from the sun.
• Storms: Severe storms can develop quickly, bringing high winds, heavy snowfall, extreme temperatures, and whiteout conditions. These storms can last several days, requiring climbers to remain in camp until conditions improve.

Denali's weather is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Arctic Circle and Gulf of Alaska (known for generating massive storms) and its immense elevation. This results in highly variable conditions that can change rapidly. Climbers must be prepared for weather scenarios, from relatively mild and sunny to severe. For more info on the weather, check out our Denali Resources section.

Cell phone coverage on Denali, particularly along the West Buttress route, is extremely limited and unreliable. Here are the key points regarding cell phone usage:

• Limited Coverage: Most areas on Denali, including base camp and higher elevations, do not have cell phone coverage. Major carriers do not provide service in these remote, high-altitude regions.
• Satellite Phones: RMI guides carry satellite phones for reliable communication. In emergencies, these phones communicate with the RMI office and the National Park Service. While not for personal use, the presence of satellite phones ensures that guides can manage communication effectively during the expedition.
• Emergency Communications: In an emergency, satellite phones provide a crucial link to rescue services and support teams. This ensures that climbers have access to necessary help even without cell coverage. Guide radios also allow communication with other guide teams and independent climbers who may be able to assist.
• Alternative Communication Devices: Some climbers bring personal satellite communication devices, such as Garmin inReach Mini or SPOT devices, which can send text messages and GPS coordinates. These devices can be useful for staying in touch with family and friends.
• Battery Life and Cold Temperatures If you bring a cell phone, be aware that cold temperatures can significantly reduce battery life. It’s advisable to keep electronic devices insulated and carry extra batteries or power banks.

While your cell phone will not be a reliable means of communication on Denali, the expedition’s safety protocols and RMI guides' use of satellite phones ensure that necessary communication can always be maintained.

The final ascent to Denali's summit via the West Buttress route is carefully planned. At high camp, before summit day, guides conduct a formal exercise in risk management known as a GAR Model (Green Amber Red). Several factors are considered to determine potential risk on summit day. These variables include weather, snow, team fitness, and route conditions.

The push typically begins from High Camp at 17,200 feet, with climbers acclimatizing and waiting for a suitable weather window. On the summit day, the team starts early, often 8:00 or 9:00 AM, to take advantage of stable morning weather. The route includes key sections like the Autobahn, Denali Pass, the Football Field, Pig Hill, and the Summit Ridge. Climbers are roped together for safety, with guides ensuring a steady pace and frequent breaks for hydration and nutrition. Maintaining layering systems and cold protection is also a big part of the summit day.

Throughout the ascent, guides continuously assess weather conditions and climbers' health, prioritizing safety. If conditions worsen or any team member is distressed, the guides may decide to turn back. Guides also rely on honest and open communication with the whole team to make the best decisions for individual climbers and the team. Upon reaching the summit, climbers celebrate briefly before beginning the descent to High Camp. The descent is managed with the same care as the ascent to address everyone's safety. This meticulous planning and execution will give you your best shot at a summit attempt and safe return. For a look at the full climb itinerary, click here.

The West Buttress Denali expedition itinerary includes several weather days to account for the unpredictable conditions on the mountain. These buffer days are built into the schedule to allow flexibility and maximize the chances of a successful summit attempt. The exact number of weather days can vary, but typically, RMI Expeditions plans for around 5-7 weather days within the overall 21 - to 30-day expedition. This ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent and are often welcome rest days that help with acclimatization.

Unlike other guide services, RMI does not have a hard “fly-off date” that forces an early end to the expedition. This flexibility ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent. It is also why you are strongly encouraged to plan for a full month away from your responsibilities despite the trip possibly being as short as 21 days.

RMI Guides are critical in ensuring the West Buttress Denali expedition's safety, success, and overall experience. Their responsibilities include leading the team through Denali's challenging terrain, providing expert navigation, and making crucial route selection and pacing decisions while maintaining an adequate margin of safety. They are also responsible for conducting thorough gear checks, managing group equipment, and choosing campsites at various altitudes. Guides continuously monitor weather conditions and the health and well-being of the climbers, making adjustments to the plan as needed to help create the conditions for success and safety.

Besides logistical and safety roles, RMI Guides offer valuable instruction and support to climbers. They teach essential mountaineering skills such as glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and proper use of technical gear. Guides also provide motivation and encouragement, helping climbers maintain a positive mindset throughout the expedition. Their extensive experience and knowledge of Denali’s conditions are key factors in successfully reaching the summit and returning safely.

Finally, RMI Guides are your personal chefs! They will do almost all the cooking, boiling water, and meal prep. You might not expect it, but previous RMI clients have had incredible feedback about our guides' chef skills!

As a climber on the West Buttress Denali expedition, you are expected to be physically fit and well-prepared for the demanding conditions of high-altitude mountaineering. This includes having prior experience in multi-day backpacking, winter camping, and mountaineering skills such as glacier travel and crevasse rescue. You should be able to carry heavy loads (up to 80 lbs) over steep and challenging terrain and be prepared for long days of sustained physical effort. Mental toughness and a positive attitude are also crucial for handling the physical and psychological demands of the climb and ensuring you are a team player.

Besides physical preparation, you are expected to actively participate in all aspects of the expedition. This includes attending all training sessions, gear checks, and briefings. You should follow the guidance and instructions of the RMI Guides, adhere to safety protocols, and work collaboratively with your team members. Personal responsibility for your equipment, maintaining good hygiene, and being prepared for sudden weather changes are also essential. Your commitment and readiness to adapt to the expedition’s demands will contribute significantly to the overall success and safety of the climb.

If you do not reach the summit of Denali, you will still have many valuable experiences and accomplishments to take away from the expedition. The expedition's primary goal is to ensure the safety and well-being of all participants. Various factors, such as weather conditions, altitude sickness, or personal physical limitations, can prevent a summit. RMI Guides prioritize safety and may turn back if conditions are unfavorable or if any team member's health is at risk. This decision is always made with the best interest of the entire group in mind.

Even without summiting, climbers gain significant experience and skills from the expedition. You can develop and refine your mountaineering techniques, build resilience, and experience Denali's unique environment. The camaraderie and support within the team, along with the guidance of experienced RMI Guides, contribute to a rewarding adventure regardless of whether the summit is reached. Each expedition provides valuable lessons and memories that can be applied to future climbing endeavors.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route presents significant physical and mental challenges. Physically, you will face extreme cold, high winds, and heavy snowfall. Temperatures can drop to -40°F (-40°C) or lower, and wind chill can make it feel even colder. You must carry a heavy pack (up to 60 lbs) and drag a sled loaded with gear and supplies, often on steep and icy terrain. The altitude, reaching up to 20,310 feet, can cause altitude sickness, fatigue, and decreased blood oxygen levels, making every step more strenuous.

Mentally, the expedition demands resilience and perseverance. Long days of physical exertion, combined with potentially prolonged periods of waiting in camp due to bad weather, can be mentally taxing. The isolation and remoteness of the environment can also contribute to feelings of stress and anxiety. Maintaining a positive attitude, staying motivated, and supporting your team members is crucial for overcoming these mental challenges. Learn more about Denali's challenges and risks here.

RMI Expeditions is well-prepared to handle altitude sickness and other medical issues on Denali. Our guides are highly trained in wilderness medicine and equipped with comprehensive medical kits. If a climber shows symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headaches, nausea, or dizziness, guides will monitor the condition closely. Mild symptoms may be managed with rest, hydration, and medications like acetazolamide (Diamox) taken under guide supervision. Mild altitude sickness is common and not necessarily something that will put an end to your expedition. If symptoms worsen or do not improve, the affected climber will descend to a lower altitude, which is the most effective treatment for altitude sickness.

For more serious medical issues, RMI guides are trained to provide initial care and stabilize the patient. They carry satellite phones and VHF radios for emergency communication and can coordinate with the National Park Service for necessary evacuations. Evacuations may be conducted by helicopter or fixed-wing aircraft, depending on weather conditions and the climber's location on the mountain. The guides' extensive training and experience ensure that medical issues are handled promptly and effectively, prioritizing the safety and well-being of all participants.

The daily routine on the West Buttress Denali expedition is structured to balance climbing activities, acclimatization, and rest. A typical day starts early with breakfast and hot drinks to fuel up for the day's activities. After breakfast, the team packs up camp and prepares their gear for the day’s objective. Depending on the itinerary, the day may involve moving to a higher camp or carrying loads to cache gear. Climbers are roped together for safety during glacier travel and ascend steadily, taking short breaks to rest, hydrate, and eat snacks.

Once the team reaches the day's destination, they set up camp, build protective walls out of snow if necessary, and prepare the tents. Afternoons and evenings are spent melting snow for water, cooking meals, and discussing the next day's plans. Dinner is followed by a team meeting to review the day’s progress and weather forecasts. Evenings provide time for rest and personal care, such as managing gear and preparing for the next day. This structured routine helps climbers acclimate and maintain their strength for the ascent.

Maintaining hygiene and sanitation on Denali is crucial for health and comfort during the expedition. RMI Expeditions follows strict protocols to ensure cleanliness and minimize environmental impact. Personal hygiene is managed using biodegradable wipes and hand sanitizer, as running water is unavailable at high altitudes. Climbers are encouraged to maintain good personal hygiene by regularly cleaning their hands, face, and body using these supplies.

Sanitation is handled with careful waste management practices. Human waste is packed out using Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs) provided to each expedition team. These cans securely contain waste, preventing contamination of the environment. All trash, including food waste and packaging, is also packed out and disposed of properly after the expedition. Additionally, climbers use designated areas for toileting and guides instruct them on properly using CMCs to ensure everyone follows Leave No Trace principles. These measures help maintain a clean and healthy camp environment.

On our West Buttress Denali expedition, RMI Expeditions provides a well-planned menu to meet the nutritional needs of climbers in a high-altitude, cold-weather environment. The food is designed to be high in calories, carbohydrates, and protein to sustain energy levels and support physical exertion. Meals are prepared using lightweight, non-perishable ingredients that are easy to transport and cook.

Breakfast typically includes hot cereals like oatmeal, powdered milk, dried fruits, nuts, and energy bars. Lunches are not provided by RMI but should consist of easy-to-eat, simple foods. Dinner is a more substantial meal, often featuring soups, instant rice or pasta (or freeze-dried entrees that can be easily rehydrated with hot water if time is short), and desserts like hot cocoa or pudding. RMI provides tea, hot chocolate, and hot cider, but not coffee. Climbers should bring enough instant coffee for themselves.

Meal preparation is done primarily by RMI Guides to avoid complications with finicky stoves. Melting snow for water is crucial to meal prep, and ensuring everyone stays hydrated is a priority. Guides also provide instruction on safe food handling and hygiene practices to prevent illness. This well-structured meal plan ensures climbers receive the nutrition to perform at their best and enjoy their time on the mountain.

While RMI provides on-mountain breakfast and dinner, you are expected to provide your own lunches, snacks, and coffee. On the Denali—West Buttress expedition, you will need 22 mountain lunches, all of which should weigh about 20 lbs.

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb — lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Take care while shopping for your personal mountain lunch items. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer many gourmet and specialty foods and your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, Denali stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.

Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins, etc.), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and personal drink mixes for the trip (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider). RMI will provide hot cocoa mix and teas.

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Packing for the West Buttress Denali expedition requires careful planning to ensure you have all the necessary gear while adhering to weight limits. RMI Expeditions provides a detailed packing list with essential items for climbing and camping in extreme conditions. Following the packing list closely is crucial to ensure you have the right gear for safety and comfort. There is no reliable place to buy gear in Talkeetna, so it’s important to be certain of your kit before flying to Alaska. Expedition Lead Guides will have a Zoom call with their teams to go over gear before the trip and answer any questions you might have.

Weight management is critical because you must carry all your gear up the mountain. Each climber's pack typically weighs between 60-80 lbs, and you'll also be pulling a sled with additional equipment and supplies. To manage weight, prioritize lightweight and compact gear, and consider sharing group items, like books or charging devices, with teammates. RMI provides specific guidelines on weight limits and packing techniques to help you distribute the load efficiently and ensure everything is well-organized and accessible during the climb.

Yes, West Buttress Denali expedition climbers must carry group gear and personal equipment. This includes essential items such as tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, fuel, and group food supplies. The weight of group gear is distributed among all team members to ensure an even load. Each climber's pack, therefore, will contain a mix of personal gear, group gear, and food, typically weighing between 60-80 lbs. Additionally, climbers will pull sleds carrying extra supplies and equipment, adding another 30-50 lbs. Most climbers will carry personal items in their packs, and use the sled for group gear, as these items tend to be lighter but bulkier.

On the West Buttress Denali expedition, each climber's pack typically weighs between 60 and 80 lbs. This weight includes personal gear such as clothing, sleeping bags, mountaineering equipment, and food for several days. In addition to the backpack, climbers will also be responsible for pulling a sled carrying additional supplies, group gear, and equipment, which can add another 20 to 40 lbs of weight.

Therefore, the combined weight of the backpack and sled can range from 100 to 125 lbs. Efficient packing and proper weight distribution are essential to managing this load effectively, with the goal being 60-75% of the weight in your pack and the rest in your sled. Guides will provide instructions and assistance to ensure each climber can carry their share comfortably and safely. Proper physical preparation and training are also crucial to handling the demands of carrying such weights over challenging terrain.

While your guides will have a comprehensive group medical kit for serious injuries, you should bring a small personal first aid kit to deal with small things (blister prevention, ibuprofen, cold/cough medicine) and any unique medical issues you have, including personal medication.

While you must bring a range of personal gear for the West Buttress Denali expedition, RMI provides some group equipment and specialized items. Below is a breakdown of the group gear RMI will provide. For personal gear, please see our Gear page.

Group Gear

• Sleds
• Tents
• Cooking equipment (stoves, pots, fuel)
• Comprehensive Group medical kit
• Climbing ropes (for group use)
• Snow saws and shovels
• Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs) for waste management provided by the NPS

Safety Equipment

• Satellite phones for communication
• VHF Radios
• Emergency shelters and rescue equipment

RMI's comprehensive packing list ensures that you are well-prepared for the expedition. It is crucial to follow the list closely to ensure you have the right gear for safety and comfort.

Skis on the West Buttress Denali expedition are not allowed for several reasons. Climbers are roped together for safety, and managing skis while being roped up can be cumbersome and dangerous. Additionally, each climber will pull a sled loaded with gear, making skis impractical. The varying snow conditions on Denali can also complicate skiing, with the potential for icy sections, deep snow, and crevassed areas. Finally, the implications for crevasse rescue make skis a liability, as they can hinder swift and safe rescue operations. For these reasons, skis are not permitted on classic West Buttress expeditions, however, you should contact the office about a custom Expedition if you'd like to approach with skis.

Your guide may decide to bring skis, which they may use to travel on the lower mountain. Skis can be useful in rescuing or if the guide needs to move around the mountain quickly for various reasons.

RMI Expeditions offers the option to purchase gear directly from their partner retail shop, Whittaker Mountaineering. This shop specializes in high-quality mountaineering equipment and apparel that meets the specific requirements of expeditions like the West Buttress Denali climb. Climbers can find a wide range of gear, including clothing, boots, technical equipment, and camping supplies, all recommended and approved for the expedition.

Whittaker Mountaineering provides an online store where you can browse and purchase items. Additionally, you can rent almost all of the required items for Denali that you may not want to purchase, such as double boots, -20 to -40 sleeping bags, and expedition parkas. The staff at Whittaker Mountaineering are knowledgeable about Denali's gear requirements and can provide expert advice to help you make the best choices.

For more detailed information and to explore available gear, visit the Whittaker Mountaineering website.

Layering your clothing effectively is crucial for staying warm, dry, and comfortable on the West Buttress Denali expedition. The key is to follow a core layering system and adapt based on conditions, while also adhering to your guides' recommendations, as they have extensive experience with the mountain's conditions. Guides will often provide input through emails, forums, and Zoom meetings before the expedition.

The guides' recommendations are invaluable, as they know the nuances of Denali’s weather and conditions. They might suggest bringing a couple of extra items, like a wind shirt and a puffy vest, to adapt to varying conditions. For more detailed information, check out the Denali Apparel resources page.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition, proper footwear is critical for warmth, comfort, and safety. The recommended options are double boots with a neoprene overboot or dedicated 8000m boots. Here are the most common and appropriate choices:

Recommended Boots:

• La Sportiva Spantik
• Scarpa Phantom 6000
• Lowa Expedition 6000 Evo RD

• La Sportiva Olympus Mons
• Scarpa Phantom 8000
• Lowa 8000 GTX

• Forty Below K2 Superlight
• Outdoor Research Brooks Range Overboots

Ensuring that your boots fit well is crucial. Spend time wearing your boots before the trip to break them in and confirm that they are sized correctly to your feet. Consider using a more supportive insole for added comfort and stability. Proper fit helps prevent blisters, cold spots, and discomfort during long days on the mountain. Try your boots with the socks you plan to wear during the expedition to ensure a snug yet comfortable fit.

Choosing the right footwear and ensuring a proper fit will enhance your comfort and performance on Denali’s challenging terrain. For more detailed information, see our Denali Gear and Apparel page.

Maintaining and caring for your gear during the West Buttress Denali expedition is essential for ensuring its functionality and safety. Regularly check your equipment for any wear or damage, especially critical items like, harnesses, and crampons. Clean off snow, ice, and moisture from your gear at the end of each day to prevent freezing and deterioration. This includes drying out your boots, gloves, and other clothing to maintain their insulating properties. In case of gear failure, guides carry comprehensive repair kits and can assist in patching sleeping bags, sewing up gloves, resetting zippers, etc.

Organize your gear in your tent to keep it dry and accessible. Use dry bags and stuff sacks to protect items from moisture. Store your boot liners and any items that can freeze inside your sleeping bag to keep them warm at night. Keep your electronics, like headlamps and communication devices, insulated from the cold to preserve battery life. Regular maintenance and proper gear storage will help you stay prepared and efficient throughout the expedition.