Day 1
TRAVEL • 348' | 106m
1:30 p.m.: Meet the guides at Anchorage International Airport (Domestic Terminal), carousel 1 in Alaska Airlines baggage claim.
Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is included in the program. The shuttle leaves at 2:00 p.m. and takes three hours to arrive in Talkeetna. The group will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla, for the opportunity to purchase any fresh food you'd like to bring on the mountain. The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 5:00 p.m. Overnight in Talkeetna.
Day 2
PRE-TRIP PREPARATION AND TRAINING • 348' | 106m
7:00 a.m.: Team Breakfast Meeting
Our main goal today is to get the team ready to fly onto the mountain. After our breakfast meeting, the team attends a National Park Service presentation on expedition climbing and special considerations about Denali National Park & Preserve. Next, we focus on equipment, including an extensive personal gear check and recommendations for what to bring onto the mountain and how to pack for the flight to Base Camp. Finally, we organize the group food and equipment, putting the final touches on our packing for the flight. We enjoy a final meal in town before our expedition begins. Overnight in Talkeetna.
Day 3
FLY TO KAHILTNA BASE CAMP • 7,300' | 2,225m
After breakfast we meet at K2 Aviation for the bush plane flight to Kahiltna Base Camp, weather permitting. The spectacular scenic flight takes approximately 45 minutes. Kahiltna Base Camp lies at 7,300' on the S.E. fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, approximately 20 miles distant and 13,000' below the South Peak of Mt. McKinley, at 20,310'. At Base Camp we rig our sleds and review mountaineering skills needed for the climb ahead.
THE EXPEDITION
There are many variables on a Mt. McKinley expedition. While most expeditions average 18 days from Base Camp to Base Camp, we never place an ending date on our programs. We purposely build flexibility into our itinerary to take into account weather, route conditions, acclimatization, and the strength of the climbing team. This flexibility allows us to move higher when the weather permits and climbers are ready. Our experienced guides closely monitor climbers' performance and acclimatization throughout the team’s ascent and may make day-to-day variations in order to better our chances of reaching the summit.
We pack each expedition with twenty-two days of food. In the event of bad weather, this amount can be stretched several additional days if necessary. Furthermore, there are emergency food rations at Kahiltna Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off.
The following itinerary is meant to highlight the camps, route details, and a day-to-day outline while on the mountain. It does not take into account any sort of delays.
Day 4
KAHILTNA BASE CAMP TO THE BASE OF SKI HILL • 7,800' | 2,377m
Leaving Kahiltna Base, we descend 400' down Heart Break Hill to the main Kahiltna glacier, where we turn towards Mt. McKinley, and travel 5.5 miles up the gently rising glacial rolls. Our camp sits at the base of Ski Hill at 7,800'.
Day 5
BASE OF SKI HILL CAMP TO 9,600' CAMP • 9,600' | 2,926m
Ski Hill is the first major elevation gain of the trip. In a series of rolls, the Kahiltna Glacier rises from our camp at the base of Ski Hill towards Kahiltna Pass at 10,000'. We leave camp and climb up the glacier to our second camp at 9,600', just below Kahiltna Pass.
Day 6
9,600' CAMP TO 11K CAMP • 11,200' | 3,414m
At Kahiltna Pass, the Kahiltna glacier makes a prominent turn to the east, continuing up a glacial valley into our camp in a basin at the base of Motorcycle Hill.
Day 7
ACCLIMATIZATION DAY AT 11K CAMP • 11,200' | 3,414m
We spend the day resting, reviewing crampon and self-arrest techniques, and sorting loads in anticipation of our carry day.
Day 8
11K CAMP TO CACHE (13,500') • 11,200' | 3,414m
Leaving camp, we climb Motorcycle Hill to a bench with stunning views of the Father and Sons Wall, and the Peters Glacier. The subsequent climb up Squirrel Hill leads us to the Polo Field, a wide glacial bench at the foot of the West Buttress. We traverse around Windy Corner at 13,300' to our cache site at 13,500'. After leaving our load of group food, fuel, and personal items, we descend back to our tents at 11K Camp.
Day 9
ACCLIMATIZATION DAY AT 11K CAMP • 11,200' | 3,414m
This is an important acclimatization day before our move to 14K Camp. We spend the day resting, hydrating, eating, and organizing our loads for our move day.
Day 10
11K CAMP TO 14K CAMP • 14,200' | 4,328m
After breaking camp, we make our move to 14K Camp. We once again climb around Windy Corner, and passing our cache site, continue to climb to 14,200' Genet Basin, our home for the next several days.
Day 11
14K CAMP TO CACHE (13,500') • 14,200' | 4,328m
We retrace our steps and descend to our cache site at 13,500'. After retrieving our gear, we return to 14K Camp to spend the afternoon improving our camp and relaxing.
Day 12
ACCLIMATIZATION DAY AT 14K CAMP • 14,200' | 4,328m
The focus of the day is to rest, hydrate, and let our bodies start to adjust to this new altitude. We practice fixed line travel and running belays, as well as sort another load of gear, all in preparation for our carry onto the West Buttress.
Day 13
14K CAMP TO CACHE (16,300') • 14,200' | 4,328m
We ascend out of the North side of Genet Basin, gaining the fixed lines at approximately 15,200' that top out at the ridge line of the West Buttress at 16,200'. Depending on time, weather, route conditions, and energy level, we may opt to make our cache at the top of the fixed lines or travel higher along the West Buttress towards 17K Camp before caching. After leaving our loads, we return to 14K Camp for the evening.
Day 14
ACCLIMATIZATION DAY AT 14K CAMP • 14,200' | 4,328m
After a leisurely breakfast we make it our priority to hydrate and fuel throughout the day so that we’re prepared for our move to High Camp and the summit push. Depending on weather, we may stretch our legs and take a short walk across Genet Basin to the Edge of the World. From here we can look down almost 7,000' to the N.E. Fork of the Kahiltna, see our first camp at the Base of Ski Hill, and look across the valley to stunning views of 17,402' Mt. Foraker.
Day 15
14K CAMP TO 17K CAMP • 17,200' | 5,243m
We ascend the North side of Genet Basin once again, gaining the fixed lines to the ridge crest of the West Buttress at 16,200'. We travel along the ridge crest, stopping to pick up any essentials from our cache before continuing to our High Camp at 17,200'.
Day 16
SUMMIT DAY! (20,310') • 17,200' | 5,243m
Our climb begins with a long rising traverse along the Autobahn to Denali Pass at 18,200'. Beyond Denali Pass, we follow the ridge line, passing the Zebra Rocks and the Archdeacon’s Tower before gaining the Football Field at 19,200'. Six hundred vertical feet of climbing leads us to the top of Pig Hill and the summit ridge. We traverse the airy summit ridge to the top of the South Peak. After celebrating on the summit, we descend our route back to High Camp. Summit day can be long; you should train for a 12 to 14 hour round trip.
Day 17
17K CAMP TO 11K CAMP • 11,200' | 3,414m
After a well-deserved rest we pack camp and begin our descent back down the West Buttress. We stop briefly at 14K Camp to retrieve any cached items before continuing our descent to 11K Camp, where we stop for the night.
Day 18
11K CAMP TO KAHILTNA BASE CAMP • 7,300' | 2,225m
We re-rig our sleds, don our snowshoes, and begin our descent of the main Kahiltna Glacier back to the base of Heartbreak Hill. We then turn our sights back uphill to Kahiltna Base Camp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna.
Day 19
BASE CAMP (fly off) • 348' | 106m
Talkeetna is a mere 45-minute flight from Kahiltna Base Camp, weather permitting. Many a party has sat for a day, or two, or even several, waiting for a break in the weather. At this stage of the expedition, our team is in the capable hands of the professional bush pilots of K2 Aviation. When the weather cooperates, we will load up the planes and return to Talkeetna to enjoy a hot shower and celebratory team meal.
You are responsible for your own lodging upon returning to Talkeetna. Shuttle transportation to Anchorage is not provided; however your RMI Guides will help arrange shuttle transportation.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send an email to travelrountree@gmail.com.
Travel Insurance
Travel insurance is required for this trip.
Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, travel delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.
Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be challenging. When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:
- Read the fine print. Travel Insurance offers reimbursement when you must cancel your trip for an eligible reason for prepaid, non-refundable trip costs that you insure. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "eligible reasons."
- Confirm that your activity is an eligible "activity." Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), activities that go above specific elevations, or activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to help cover your activity.
- Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.
- Contact your travel protection company directly for any questions you have regarding benefits or coverage.
TRAVELEX
In today’s changing travel environment, it’s important to protect your travel investment. Unforeseen events such as flight delays, baggage loss or even a sudden sickness or injury could impact your travel plans. For your convenience, we offer Travelex Insurance protection plans to help protect you and your travel investment against the unexpected.
For more information on the available plans visit Travelex Insurance Services or contact Travelex Insurance (800) 228-9792 and reference location number 47-0370.
The product descriptions provided here are only brief summaries and may be changed without notice. The full coverage terms and details, including limitations and exclusions, are contained in the insurance policy. Travelex Insurance Services, Inc. CA Agency License #0D10209. Insurance coverages underwritten by individual member companies of Zurich in North America, including Zurich American Insurance Company (NAIC #16535, state of domicile: New York). RETWEB
RIPCORD
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.
Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:
- Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
- Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D) and more.
- Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
- 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses and military veterans.
- Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.
- Cancel For Any Reason (CFAR) options and pre-existing condition waiver within 14 days of your initial trip deposit.
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a cancelled trip, paying your travel medical bills or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.
Getting to Talkeetna
FLIGHTS TO ALASKA
Climbers need to arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 pm on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 pm, Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.
If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier and go to the airport to meet the team.
We recommend allowing 30 days to complete this expedition, door-to-door. Since we do not have a hard ending date for the climb, we recommend that you purchase a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK, for the beginning of your trip, then purchasing your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. Alternatively, you can purchase a ticket with a flexible return date and change your flight when you return to Talkeetna. This works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.
Note: Beginning May 7, 2025, every air traveler 18 years of age and older will need a REAL ID compliant driver’s license, state-issued enhanced driver’s license, or another acceptable form of ID to fly within the United States.
SHUTTLE TO TALKEETNA
We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 2:00 p.m. the day your program begins. Please arrive in Anchorage no later than 1:00 p.m. Talkeetna is a three-hour drive from Anchorage. If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation.
Anchorage Accommodations Near the Airport
If you are arriving in Anchorage the day before your program begins, below are some hotel options close to the Anchorage Airport:
Weather
Mt. McKinley's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service
Tipping
Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your wellbeing and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.
Resources
Mountaineering is replete with literary accounts of high adventure in Alaska. For aspiring Mt. McKinley climbers, certain historical narratives, as well as how-to guidebooks, can prove both entertaining and educational, significantly adding to one's enjoyment of the expedition.
The list below represents some personal favorites from over three decades of guiding in Alaska. I particularly enjoy the story of the first winter ascent: Minus 148 degrees!
Whether you are challenging the West Buttress, learning crevasse rescue on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, or rock climbing in Little Switzerland, these titles will greatly enhance your experience and appreciation of Alaska!
- Joe Horiskey
Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R. Seven Summits 1986
Beckey, Fred Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993
Bezruhka, Stephen Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001
Cole, Terence The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in l910 1985
Davidson, Art Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986
Houston, Charles Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987
Mason, Gen Minus Three 1970
Michener, James A. Alaska 1988
Moore, Terris Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981
Roberts, David The Mountain of My Fear 1968
Randall, Francis Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987
Seattle Mountaineers The Freedom of the Hills 2017
Selters, Andy Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 2009 (second printing)
Sherwonit, Bill To The Top of Denali 2013 (third edition)
Sherwonit, Bill Denali, A Literary Anthology 2000
Stuck, Hudson The Ascent of Denali 1914
Washburn, B., Roberts, D. Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991
Qualifications
This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition with previous glacier climbing experience. Successful completion of an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier, in Alaska, Peru, Ecuador, North Cascades, or an equivalent multi-day mountaineering seminar is required. The Seminar must include a successful summit climb.
Mt. McKinley’s high altitude and extreme polar weather, combined with spending three weeks on the mountain, traveling on complicated glaciated terrain, and carrying heavy backpacks, all contribute to make this a very demanding climb. When reviewing the climbing resumes of RMI climbers who have successfully reached the summit of Mt. McKinley, each resume had at least three of the following components:
- PHYSICAL CONDITIONING: Fit individuals with focused training to prepare for carrying required pack weight.
- ELEVATION: Climbing to altitudes above 15,000.’
- MULTI-DAY PROGRAMS: Participating in unsupported multi-day climbing or trekking or backcountry trips, carrying all gear, and moving to different camps.
- DATE OF LAST ADVENTURE: Climbing activities occurring within the last 3 to 5 years.
CLIMBING RESUME
Your climbing resume should include:
- Glacier travel experience
- Summit day that exceeds 10 - 12 hours
- Experience at altitudes above 14,000'
- Familiarity with the skills needed for a cold, remote and heavily glaciated peak
- Crampon skills on 30 - 50-degree slopes
- Team rope travel skills
- Knots & slings - Prusik, butterfly, Münter, etc.
- Snow and ice anchors (construction & equalization)
- Belaying and running belay experience
- Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuer perspectives, and considering heavy packs and sleds)
- Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
- Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
- Snow camp construction
Qualifying Programs
Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Mt. McKinley - West Buttress Expedition include:
Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
Expedition Skills Seminar - Baker: Easton
Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan
Ecuador Seminar - Chimborazo
Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru
Get In The Best Shape Of Your Life And Then Go Climb A Mountain
Create A Fitness And Training Program
Fitness for Mountaineering
Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.
- Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
- Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina, and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
- Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.
For the Mt. McKinley - West Buttress Expedition, you are preparing for:
- Steep climbing and glacier travel with a 50-65 lb. load, including sled pulling
- Strenuous physical activity for multiple hours a day for multiple consecutive days
- A 12-14+ hour summit day
- Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility
Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!
Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.
Acclimatization
The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile, which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude.
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize as you ascend. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.
Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days, and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are all key critical factors in determining an individual’s success on an expedition such as this.
What You’ll Need
A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation, and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear, and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.
The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.
RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item. Thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a good reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.
Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list carefully so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine-tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!
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Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.
Shop Your Equipment List // Rent new equipment for your climb
Equipment List
Pack & Travel
100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This can be used as your checked bag on your flight to Alaska and to store excess gear in Talkeetna.
A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.
Your pack must be large enough for your layers, climbing gear, and food, as well as a portion of your tent and your share of group equipment. The pack volume you choose depends on your experience and the quality of your gear; if you opt for a smaller pack, practice packing and make sure you can fit all of your gear with room to spare. You will not need a separate summit pack.
Sleeping Bag & Pad
We recommend a bag rated between -20° and -40° F. Allow ample room for movement. We highly recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a -40° F bag.
A full-length inflatable pad.
A full-length closed cell foam pad, used in combination with the inflatable sleeping pad.
Technical Gear
The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.
Used for clipping into the climbing rope.
Used for clipping into anchors, etc.
Automatic or semi-automatic 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.
Bring extra batteries appropriate to the duration of the climb.
We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.
For traveling on fixed lines. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.
120 cm sewn sling ("double-length runner").
60 cm sewn sling ("single-length runner").
6mm accessory cord for sled tether, sled prussik, and ditch loop.
Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing your duffel onto your sled.
Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.
Head
A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.
Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
A Buff provides versatile head and neck protection. A neck gaiter is also acceptable.
Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.
Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.
Hands
Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.
Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.
Wind- and water-resistant, insulated mountain gloves.
Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves.
For summit day and other very cold days. Gloves provide greater dexterity. Mitts provide greater warmth.
Upper Body
We recommend six upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Three of these should be insulating layers, one light, one medium and one heavy that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.
Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Light weight, light-colored, hooded baselayers (sun hoodys) are highly recommended for sun protection.
One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.
A down, synthetic, or softshell hoody makes a great midlayer.
A hooded down or synthetic jacket.
An uninsulated, waterproof shell jacket with hood.
Your expedition-style heavy parka should extend below the waist and must have an insulated hood and be able to fit over the rest of your upper body layers. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day when it is of crucial importance. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill.
We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.
Lower Body
We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
Non-cotton briefs or boxers.
Synthetic or wool.
Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.
Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.
A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth and comfort at camps, both on the glacier and on the trail. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.
Feet
Expedition-style double boots provide the best balance of weight, comfort, and insulation. Your boots need to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and to insulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance.
Expedition overboots add significant warmth.
Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice for evenings at camp.
Great for traveling and wearing around town. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.
A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.
Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.
First Aid & Medications
We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.
We require each climber to have the following medications:
125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 15 - 20 tablets.
4mg tablets for the treatment of altitude illness. Recommend 12 tablets.
30mg slow-release tablets for the prevention or treatment of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recommend 8 - 10 tablets.
Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.
Personal Items
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See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.
Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommend a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L Nalgene.
A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.
One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).
High quality, durable vacuum bottle with a volume of 1/2 liter or 1 liter.
These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.
Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for caching and for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.
Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.
We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.
Practice using this before coming on the climb!
One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.
Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.
A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.
A small solar panel to charge personal electronics.
Watch with an altimeter, barometer, and compass. Many smart watches will also have this functionality.
Communicate with family and friends back home, track your progress, and much more. Generally requires a subscription plan. Make sure this is a modern model that makes it difficult to initiate an accidental SOS call.
Travel Clothes
We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the best shape of your life!
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, sleds, and avalanche probes.
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.
Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.
Meals
On the Mt. McKinley - West Buttress expedition you will need 22 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh about 20 lb.
Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included in your program cost. You are responsible for all meals while we are off the mountain.
Vegetarian and gluten-free menu options are available.
MOUNTAIN LUNCHES
Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.
The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.
Take care while shopping for your personal mountain lunch items. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, Denali stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.
Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflowers seeds, raisins, etc), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light or instant coffee).
Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.
Sample food packing list of personal lunch food for a Mt. McKinley Expedition:
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25 bars: a mix of Cliff, Luna, and others |
2 lb of almond, dried cranberries & chocolate chips |
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2 packages of bagels |
2 packages of whole wheat tortillas |
|
2 blocks of cheese - pepper jack & sharp cheddar |
1 Hickory Farms summer sausage |
|
1 pepperoni stick |
1 package Little Smokies |
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2 packs of smoked salmon |
1 pack of turkey jerky |
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2 cans each: clams, oysters |
1 container of peanut butter & jelly mix |
|
2 packages of crackers (Wheat Thins & Triscuits) |
2 cans of potato chips (Pringles) |
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2+ lb GORP mix |
1 box of Ginger Snaps |
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1 box of graham crackers |
1 container of hummus |
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1 bag of carrots |
1 package of dried mangos |
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1 small container of sweet mustard |
Gatorade mix, travel size Crystal Light packets, instant coffee |
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25 mixed candies (lifesavers, jolly ranchers, gummy worms, sweet tarts, toffee, mints) |
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BREAKFAST
Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks.
DINNER
Twenty-two man-days of food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Kahiltna Base Camp.
The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried entrees (Mountain House or Alpine Air), and packaged main course items (ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, macaroni and cheese). Various hot drinks (tea and cocoa) and dessert are also provided.
Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.
Payments
Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $3,500 per person secures your reservation.
- Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank, or wire transfer**.
- **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.
- Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
- **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
- A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
- Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.
*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions.
**Wire transfers must include all fees charged by your bank. The amount received by our bank must match the deposit amount.
Cancellation
The $3,500 per person deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.
- All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following apply:
- If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $3,500 per person deposit will not be refunded.
- If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.
Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, we strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.
Cancellation Insurance
We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Tab for details.
Change of Date
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 90 days prior to your departure date for a $500 fee per person. No date changes allowed less than 90 days before departure.
LANDCOST
INCLUDED
- RMI Leadership
- Ground transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna as stated in the itinerary
- Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna for two nights at the start of the trip*
- Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain
- Celebration dinner in Talkeetna at end of trip (does not include drinks)
- Group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)
- Bush pilot service between Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base Camp as stated in the itinerary
NOT INCLUDED
- Airfare to and from Anchorage International Airport (ANC)
- Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna not included above
- Ground transportation from Talkeetna to Anchorage
- National Park Service Mountaineering Permit Fee
- Denali National Park Entrance Fee
- Travel Insurance
- Meals while not on the mountain
- Mountain lunches during the climb
- Customary guide gratuities
- Bush pilot fees if returning from the mountain early
* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.
Risk Management
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.
You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
PARTICIPANT Responsibilities
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:
- Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
- Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
- Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
- Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
- Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
- Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
- Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
- Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
- Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
- Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
- Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
- Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.
Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.
RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.
Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.
Age requirements
All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.
Photo Release
RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.
I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.
Here are the key points:
- Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
- Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
- Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
- Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them.
- Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
- Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
- Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.
Summit Attempt
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.
Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.
General Policies
RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue you a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments that have been paid on your behalf to secure any of the land costs, operational expenses, or services required for this program, including, but not limited to hotel accommodations, transportation and transfers, tours, group food, permits, local outfitter services, and insurance premiums prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).
Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for programs that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.
The Participant is responsible for any costs incurred due to COVID-19, including but not limited to, any testing fees or costs associated with medical care and/or quarantine such as hotel accommodations, meals, separate transportation, etc.
Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same-gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.
The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.
