It's nice to be back in the mountains!
Today the team awoke to cloudy skies and a little rain here in the Baksan Valley at the base of Mt. Elbrus. We started our day with a nice breakfast with fresh juice, porridge, and fried eggs. We had a bit of a rain delay so we walked over to the local gear shop and picked up a few last minute things for the climb then headed out on our first acclimatization hike. We made use of the ski lifts here to access the better hiking terrain and help us gain a little more altitude. Certainly not the norm elsewhere, but luckily for us it is in Russia. We hiked a little over an hour and reached our high point which was just over 10,000. Everyone did great and enjoyed the views even though they were a bit limited with the cloud cover. After descending back to town we had quick lunch and spent the remainder of the day exploring town, getting packed for tomorrow and a few of us even managed a cat nap too.
The team is in good spirits and excited about moving uphill tomorrow!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Greg: looking strong and happy :). Have fun, sending you energy n strength. Blah blah, think I’ll have a glass of wine while I read the rmi blog. Do it!!!
Posted by: Barb on 7/24/2013 at 9:03 am
Great to see the team made it to the mountains. Scenery looks pretty and you all look like you’re enjoying the hike! Love to fatima.
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/24/2013 at 6:31 am
Summer is here this morning, this afternoon that will be a different story.
Tsering, Kaji, and Dawa left Camp 2 a half an hour before Dave, Sara and Linden for the climb up the Lhotse face to Camp 3. Lam Babu has now arrived at Base Camp after going the other direction from Camp 2. Dave reported good conditions ,weather and route wise on the face with incredible views of the surrounding mountains.
Up above he could see some people going for the summit of Everest, yet another wave of climbers getting a chance at standing on top. It is great to see the groups getting a shot at the top over many days. instead of a lot of teams concentrated on the same window of time. I have started a push to the top a couple of times with eighty or so other climbers leaving high camp at about the same time. It's always a struggle thinking about what the near future could bring. More than often things work out but if they don't it can make for an even tougher day. Enough good experienced mountaineers can be a good thing to have around on the summit push, the right amount is a bit by chance.We will have a tight strong group that can handle most anything.
Dave and Sara have decided that 23,000 ft, a good chunk of the way to Camp 3 is going to be enough for today. They have prioritized the next rotation as the objective, the idea of sleeping at Camp 3 tonight was a good plan, but the decision we make out in the field, are the ones that make the difference. They have just radioed in that they are off the face, heading to Camp 2. Linden is still climbing toward Camp 3 to get familiar with the route and location of Camp 3, another altitude records for Linden today. He will also come back to Camp 2 for the night.
The Sherpa team worked all morning chopping and digging into the ice for tent platforms which will be used in the future. Instead of putting up the tents today they have then in a duffel bag secure to the site and will set them up on the summit push. No sense in subjecting them to wind and snow for now.
So a good day for training and working hard up high. Back to Basecamp tomorrow, for the final resting period, with the summit push as the new focus.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Sarah, I just wanted to send you a quick note to let you know how proud we all are here at Westminster. I have no doubt this is just the beginning of a list of amazing experiences for you in your life. We are thinking of you and wish you the best. Take care. Buen trabajo! Felicitaciones! Sra. Russell
Posted by: Maria Russell on 5/12/2011 at 6:03 am
Sara, we are so proud of you. We’re thinking of you all the time and enjoying the incredible pictures. Dave, the audio was great - thank you for posting it - and the blogs help those of us closer to sea level live this with you. How are the poker games going, Bill? Much love.
It is a beautiful, sunny day in Talkeetna. The team is hard at work organizing and packing in preparation to fly into Basecamp tomorrow. Everyone is excited and making last minute decisions on oreos vs. famous amos and apple cider vs. hot chocolate. Decisions, decisions...
RMI Guides Shaun Sears and Billy Nugent led their Four Day Summit Climb July 30 - 2 August, 2012 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported nice climbing conditions and clear skies with a cloud deck below them at around 8,000'. They were able to spend some time on the summit before beginning their descent at 8:30 a.m.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today led by RMI Guide Tyler Reid. The team spent two days training in Ashford and Paradise before driving to the White River Trail head and beginning their climb. They will descend to their camp and spend one final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Another night, another snow storm. This morning as we got the stoves fired and the POSH pit dug out once again, it was clear that our summit chances had slipped away. That was all that was clear... the day was much like the night, clagged in and snowing. We had a team meeting at breakfast and a retreat from 14,200 ft was proposed. Rather than merely waiting for a break in the weather to head up onto the West Buttress, we are now back in the uncomfortable position of having loaded avalanche slopes blocking our ascent. They'd need that tedious and time-consuming process of cooking in the (seldom seen) sun and stabilization and careful evaluation... all over again. And we won't have resources for that if we are to devote a little food and fuel to getting safely down and off the mountain. Folks expressed their disappointment at not getting to see the mountaintop, but also their recognition that we simply hadn't gotten a break from sloppy weather. Something had to give. We are going down, but we aren't exactly finished climbing yet. We still need an easing of the current snowstorm and then we'll need a strong and focused team to negotiate the terrain that took a week of careful climbing on the way in.
Perhaps the night will pass without a new storm and we'll be able to begin working toward the airstrip tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Cathy: we know that you are disappointed not been able to go all the way!!!! We know you could have made it. But, we are happy that you had a great adventure!!!! Your little soon to be niece/nephew is excited too!!!!!!
Love, Kae and Caroline
Posted by: Kae on 7/17/2012 at 5:24 am
Brian and team, I can only imagine how disappointed y’all must be, but you accomplished far more than most people will ever get a chance at. The experiences and memories of your time on McKinley will last a life time. Plant the flag and take the picture (still a great shot). We are looking forward to your safe return and beautiful pictures. We love you , RB, TB & CB
Posted by: Robin, Tristan and Connor on 7/16/2012 at 8:20 pm
Yesterday, we awoke early, donned our technical gear and launched towards the Ingraham flats to train before the next storm system hit in the mid afternoon. Sadly the storm had other plans and hit Camp Muir around 9am. We retreated in a white out with winds averaging 58mph during our time on the Cowlitz glacier. The storm has been impressive in its power and consistency. It is not snowing so much as it is launching ice pellets at us with high velocity. Moral stayed high as we continued to practice various technical skills in the bunkhouse. The team took brief forays into the violent snow globe that was the outside world to shovel out the bathroom. We were highly motivated to maintain our access to the facilities.
We are excited to find a lull in the weather to head down hill, dry out and enjoy some pizza and beer at the Basecamp Bar and Grill.
May 30, 2017
Our unseasonal snowfall over the past two days set the team up for a wary summit bid in the wee hours of the morning. Leaving High Camp at 17,000 we found ourselves in boot high fresh snow. Yet, after two hours of uphill, we quickly came upon wind deposits well over a meter deep and made the tough but safe call to walk back to our refugio amongst the clouds. However, our morning wasn't quite over, for as we peeked back down through the cloud ceiling we were just in time to watch the entirety of an absolutely spectacular sunrise. The sun rose behind Huayna's sister to the east and lit three levels of clouds in hues of pink and gold. One rope team simply stopped in the middle of the boot pack and watched for 45 minutes as the valley below us slowly filled with light. Right as the sun finally crested the peak to our east, the valley clouds rose up around camp and engulfed us in a glowing mist. Despite not getting the chance to climb higher, I'm afraid we would have missed the sunrise being stuck in the high clouds and honestly it was all any of us could have asked for.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Sounds like a fabulous experience despite the disappointment of not summiting! As an aside, a predator fan was arrested at the game in Pittsburgh for throwing a weapon in the ice - a catfish!
Our Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The cloud covering made for a beautiful sunrise today. The teams have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route. The team will descend the route back to Camp Schurman, spend another day training and will return to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow.
Congratulations to today's teams.
Today we made our first big move up the mountain as we left basecamp and have settled in atAconagua's Camp 1. Despite a couple hiccups (negotiating with some Russians over tent platforms, some minor blisters, and acquainting ourselves with the bio-bag human waste system) today's move was the smoothest I've seen. The guys are all in great spirits after having a great meal and a hot drink before crawling in for the night. We hope to take advantage of more good weather forecasted for tomorrow by pushing another carry up to our Camp 2, also know as Chopper Camp.
We'll check in again tomorrow evening,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent & Leon Davis
It is like a ghost town up here at ABC. We don't mind a bit, having fought half the day to get here from Basecamp. Most others were struggling to get elsewhere. There is a storm sumo wrestling with the exposed summits of Everest and Lhotse today. Since this one is coming out of the west, 25,000 ft Nuptse gives us some protection down here in the Cwm. We still get good strong belts of wind and blowing snow, but we know it could be a lot worse at Camp III and Camp IV in this pattern. Our friends up at the South Col - hoping for a break so as to ring the summit bell - didn't get a break. They were forced to retreat this morning just as we were tentatively moving up. We were tentatively moving up because that seemed like the smart way to be with a 4 AM sky full of clouds, a couple of inches of new snow on the ground, and untested legs in our crew.
It didn't take long at all for Erica's legs to prove they were ready for climbing today. I could hear her crampons digging in just a few steps behind me for all of the first dark hour-she was cruising over the same ice that had defeated her 24 hours earlier. I focused on other problems. The big one was the misbehaving cloud ceiling. It was steadily dropping as we climbed and the morning light came on. The more I could see, the less I could see. When we took the first short break it was snowing, and I polled my team as to whether they thought it would intensify. There were six of us today - the five usual suspects (Seth, Erica, Kent, Ang Kaji and me) plus Maila - the Camp II cook who had been enjoying a brief Basecamp vacation from one of the toughest jobs on the hill. Maila thought-as we all did-that the snow was just getting started, and that there wasn't much point in going on. None of us wanted to be doing the braille thing through a Khumbu Icefall whiteout. And there definitely weren't any takers for a stroll in close to the Nuptse avalanche chutes beyond Camp I, with serious snow coming down.
So we very nearly called it quits at 5 AM, before getting into the worst of the Icefall. The retreat plan was sound - and we hated it. This acclimatization round is important - it is our "tryout" for a summit bid. We want the extra strength, skill and confidence that may come from it. We can't really get that by going an hour out of BC every day. And the calendar is moving on to the phat part of May. We want to be ready. We decided to hedge our bets-pushing onto the middle of the Icefall - another hour along, for a final call on the weather.
In that next hour, the snow quit and the clouds lifted. We knew the storm wasn't finished, but we saw our little window of opportunity for scampering out of the Icefall and past Nuptse, and we were determined to take full advantage.
Long story short - our little gamble worked. We arrived at ABC at midday excited as kids (even those of us not quite kids anymore). Excited with storm adrenaline, excited to have put things on the line, and to have made correct climbing decisions, and to feel the fitness we didn't have 5 weeks ago.
We called down to BC to boast - but also to be assured that the rest of our team is coping well with their summit holding pattern. They are not alone in that - as I said, we've got ABC pretty much to ourselves - and we barely had to make room for other climbers today on the route. Most are lower. Most are waiting for summit weather.
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Greg: looking strong and happy :). Have fun, sending you energy n strength. Blah blah, think I’ll have a glass of wine while I read the rmi blog. Do it!!!
Posted by: Barb on 7/24/2013 at 9:03 am
Great to see the team made it to the mountains. Scenery looks pretty and you all look like you’re enjoying the hike! Love to fatima.
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/24/2013 at 6:31 am
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