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Everest Base Camp Trek: Up To Island Peak or Down to Namche…

Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling from Chukung in the Imja Khola Valley, it’s a side valley off of the main Khumbu Valley. In the last days before Island Peak, part of the group headed off back down to Namche today and four of us are headed up towards Island Peak. We’ll be heading into Base Camp tomorrow to begin the climb. Everybody is doing well; the weather has been nice so far and we’re keeping our fingers crossed that it stays that way. We’ll check in with you again at Base Camp. Take care.


RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Chukung.

On The Map

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We are anxious to hear how things are going.  So you summit Saturday, which means Friday night Nepal, which means Friday day EST.  I’m confused and I’m at sea level.

Keep the Sat phone updates coming Linden

Posted by: john barsanti on 3/29/2012 at 9:14 am

Thanks for the update. We are going through withdrawal without our daily blog feeds from Linden and Dana Marie. Take care and keep looking upward.

Posted by: Thurston on 3/29/2012 at 8:25 am


Training with Heart Rate Monitors

As you design a training plan to prepare for your next climb, data about your training and level of fitness is a really useful tool. One of the best ways to get an objective idea of your current level of fitness and to measure your gains is by tracking your heart rate with a heart rate monitor.

There are two main types of heart rate monitors available: watches that use an infrared sensor to your heart rate at your wrist and monitors that use a chest strap with two electrodes to record the electrical pulses from your heart. The infrared sensors on watches measure the change in the size of veins to record your heart beat, and can give a good rough idea of your heart rate trends. Movement of the watch on your wrist can interfere with the accuracy of the sensor however, so the normal movement that comes with training activities can mean that it doesn’t record your workout very effectively. The electrodes on a chest strap pick up the electrical signals from your heart very effectively despite any movement, and therefore and the best way to get a good picture of your workouts, and what we recommend.

Heart rate monitors are effective for a couple of different purposes. First and foremost, a heart rate monitor gives you the ability to track your training more accurately. Heart rate monitors use versions of the 5 training zones that most athletes utilize, so you can begin to build an accurate picture of how much time you spend in each zone and how effective a given period, week, or workout might have been for you.

A heart rate monitor also helps you to hit your target intensity zone for a given workout. This works in both directions; it can help you to tone it down on your long level 2 endurance training if you start to push a little hard, or it can let you know that you need to push even harder to make it to your target L4 zone on a set of intervals. One of the most helpful is setting an upper heart rate threshold alarm during your aerobic building workouts to warn you when you go too hard, which happens to most!

Tracking your heart rate over a period of time can also give you a picture of your overall fitness. As your training pays off, your resting heart rate should drop, and you will find yourself covering more ground and going faster, but at the same intensity. Conversely, a sudden spike in your resting heart rate may indicate that your training load is adding up and that you need to focus a bit more on recovery.

As an added bonus, most of the better heart rate monitors also have the ability to track your workout with GPS, so you can keep track of your training routes. A heart rate monitor won’t make you fitter, but it gives you invaluable information that allows you to create a more informed training plan.

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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There are so many choices with heart rate monitors. Can you make a few recommendations? Thank you.

Posted by: Mike on 10/8/2023 at 9:17 pm


Mt. Rainier: Paradise Seminar Concludes with Beautiful Summit Day

RMI Guide Jack Delaney led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise July 14 - 19.  The team met last Thursday for their orientation and gear check.  The next morning they went straight to the mountain.  Their first camps were above Paradise and they used the terrain for training, getting everyone up to speed on cramponing, glacier travel and ice axe arrest skills.  Additional training took place as the group slowly ascended over the next few days.  Yesterday the team made the jump to Camp Muir.  After dinner and discussion about the climb ahead they crawled into sleeping bags for a few hours of rest.  With an alpine start the team left Camp Muir, they reached the summit after 6 hours of climbing, approaching the crater rim around 7 am.  After enjoying the views and photo ops from the summit the team is returning to Camp Muir.  Once back at Camp they will pack up and continue the final 4.5 miles back to Paradise.  Their program concludes today with a celebration once they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!  We hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!

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Mt. Elbrus: North Side Climb Reaches Summit!

The Mt. Elbrus North Side team reached the summit of Mt. Elbrus at 2 pm local time on August 12th. The team had good weather for their summit attempt. After taking photos and soaking in the views they descended to their high camp, broke down camp and descended to Camp 1. The team will spend their final night on the mountain tonight and make their way to the trail head tomorrow for a ride back to Kislovodsk. Congratulations to the Mt. Elbrus North Side Team!

On The Map

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Well done Johann & all the team.

Posted by: Jackie Melllo on 8/14/2014 at 4:03 am

Job well done Jessie and Team!!!!

Posted by: Len and Cathy Gagliardi on 8/13/2014 at 6:41 am


Mt. Rainier: August 1st Summit!

"By far the best of the year" was RMI Guide Brent Okita's description of today's weather on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent led the Four Day Summit Climb July 29 - 1 August to the top this morning. RMI Guide Eric Frank led the Five Day Summit Climb July 28 - 1 August to Rainier's summit with 100% of his team. Both teams reported warm temperatures with just a whisper of wind. They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. RMI Guide Mike Haugen led the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz Glacier. The team spent the week training at Rainier BaseCamp and on the mountain. This morning they packed up their camp at 13,000' atop Wapowty Cleaver and reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will descend via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. This marks the 100th summit of Mt. Rainier for RMI Guide Mike Haugen. Congratulations Mike! RMI Guide Jake Beren called to check-in from Mt. Shuksan. The team is back at camp after being 100% on top today. Jake reported that the route is “near perfect” with an amazing sunrise, views of Mt. Baker and the surrounding Cascades. They ascended the central gulleys of the summit pyramid and stood on top with windless, sunny conditions. The team had a great descent, rolling in to camp at the same time as the fog. They are back at camp hydrating and resting before hiking out tomorrow. We look forward to seeing all the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats Lindella and team. We are so proud of you!Mom and Dad

Posted by: Linda Smith on 8/4/2012 at 9:20 am

Congrats to Mike on 100!! I was there on the summit with him and our team had an incredible climb together. Thank you to our amazing guides and to my fellow climbers for a great four days on the mountain.

Posted by: Cindee Teer on 8/3/2012 at 9:12 pm


Mt. Rainier: Haugen & Kautz Seminar Team on Top!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen checked in via radio at 7:40 am as the Kautz Seminar July 18 - 23 team was just reaching the crater rim.  The team did well and climbed strong from their camp at the top of the Wapowety Cleaver.  After enjoying the views from the summit the team will descend via the Disappointment Cleaver route.  This group met at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday, July 18 and after two days of off mountain training began their ascent via the Kautz Glacier Route.  Their time on the mountain included glacier travel training as well as focusing on techniques required for the current conditions on the upper mountain.  The team will conclude their program with a celebration in Ashford later today.

Congratulations to the Kautz Seminar climbers!

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Amazing accomplishment Dustin! Can’t wait to hear all about it!!
Rose

Posted by: Rose on 7/24/2021 at 12:48 pm

Way to go Dustin!  We are so proud of your accomplishments!  Can’t wait to hear about your expedition when you get back to work!  Your fans at iMemories!

Posted by: Sheila Beals on 7/23/2021 at 11:56 am


Denali Expedition: Gately and Team are back at 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening. Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home. Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone! RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
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Carstensz Pyramid: Team Checks in from Putigapa

Hey there Mark Tucker here with the Carstensz climb. I am not quite sure what of the amazing sites in front of me I should speak of when it comes to leading a Jungle tour. We round a corner here in this neck of the woods, I guess jungle. A gentleman appears with a big spear, a large bow, something sticking through his nose, and wearing only a gourd tends to get my attention. A wondrous place it is. It is like jungle gym, thank goodness for roots, I have a new a respect for them as a whole. We had an ascent on some very steep terrain. The team is climbing so strong and so well and the support we are getting from our local staff is wonderful. We are now in Putigapa which is just a meadow swamp land at about 11,000’ and it is still very forested and we have yet to find the tree line. Mother Nature was kind to us again today we were able to get all of our gear, tents and dining area set up before the rains started. Right now it is raining pretty hard, we are all dry, but pretty happy. We are tired, but that just comes with the territory. We wish you were all here and we will check in later. RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team


Mark Tucker checks in from Putigapa

On The Map

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When your on that mountain, all you gotta do is give ahundred puhcent. You know me and my boyz dwade and chris all we do is get the rings. If you ever make a big desicion call me up (1-800-got-ring)

Posted by: Lebron (The King Who Got His Ring) James on 6/30/2012 at 8:54 pm

Hey Team!!!! Hope you all are not too worn out so far! You are in our prayers! Keep having fun p.s. Katie I hope you are not using as much chapstick as you did on kili or else you will be out by now….

Posted by: Billy (Bmeister) Mcgahan on 6/30/2012 at 8:49 pm


Kilimanjaro: Dave Hahn and Team Enjoy Final in Africa

It was pretty incredible to wake up deep within Tarangire National Park just before daylight.  Birds were starting to sing, monkeys were at play a few feet from our tents and lions were about.  Someone heard an elephant.  We drank coffee and watched the light come up.  The team ate breakfast, bid the hotel staff goodbye and hopped into our now familiar Landcruisers.  We set off on our final morning of Safari on a big cat mission… no stopping for zebras and wildebeest… bring on the kitties.  And sure enough, we struck lion gold.  First there was that big, beautiful male hanging out with four females… but wait, wasn’t that another couple of lions over in that tree and still more under it?  All told there were thirteen, big and small in the pride.  We watched them watch us and we watched them wrestle and climb trees.  And then we made slowly but steadily toward the park gate (we did indeed still stop for zebras and wildebeests).   The day got ordinary -though still pleasant- as we commuted back to Usa River and Rivertrees Hotel to repack and prepare for the airport. We recalled our favorite parts of the climb and Safari, we planned out future trips.  Then the team busted up finally… hopping on planes and departing Africa.

I’ll stay on for another climb and Safari that will begin soon.  Thank you for following. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team

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Awesome Dave! Loved following along

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 8/13/2022 at 3:14 am


SAHALE MOUNTAIN: Van Deventer and Team Check In

We opted to go for the summit today ahead of expected precip tomorrow. We called our high point a bit above the saddle. There is a large cornice along the summit ridge and loose, wet snow that was unstable. There is a lot of snow in Boston basin still, no rock to be seen along the summit ridge.

Our plan is to descend tomorrow am, one day early.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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