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Vinson Massif: Rest Day for the Team

December 7, 2011

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,500'

Winds stayed mercifully calm throughout last night, but just as we got hoping for the morning sunshine (it takes until 11:30 AM for the sun to get around the mountain and into our camp) the storm came in again good and strong for several hours. There was not any question of going ahead with our carry to high camp. Instead, we rested, which turned out to be quite pleasant when the cloud caps blew off the peaks and the winds quit. Just a lazy day in the sun, trying to drink plenty of water and get organized for going higher. This evening's dinner was relaxed and leisurely, the total opposite of our battle with the elements 24 hours before. Things don't seem totally stable yet, but there isn't much doubt now that we are headed for better days. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Vinson Massif: Team Carries to High Camp

December 9, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,300'

Morning at Low Camp is a tough, tough thing. The sun doesn't hit camp until about 11:15 AM and until then, things are mighty cold in the shadow of Vinson. It isn't dark at night, since the sun doesn't go below the horizon, but when it goes behind the mountain we burrow pretty deeply into our down sleeping bags. We rolled out this morning to find a lot more cloud than we expected. But there didn't seem to be any wind blowing on the high peaks and so we geared up to do our carry to high camp. We set out bright and early at 1:45 PM. It started snowing lightly as we approached the fixed ropes, but it wasn't particularly cold. The rope sections were a workout, for sure. We climbed continuously steep snow slopes that averaged about 35 degrees for hour after hour. Leaving the ropes we still had a final hour and a half of glacier climbing to reach high camp. All in all it took us about 6 and a half hours to get there. Views weren't unlimited since the cloud and intermittent snows stayed with us, but we got glimpses of the giant mountains around us. We cached supplies at high camp (12,300 ft) and then skedaddled on down reaching our tents and some good strong sunshine at 10:30 PM. Dinner and hot drinks finished the day. A fine and hard day of climbing, we all agreed. Now we look forward to a rest day at low camp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James, What an endeavor! Hope the mountain stays friendly for your expedition. Be safe and healthy, and good luck! This your cousin from San Francisco.

Posted by: Linda (Shin) Sager on 12/11/2012 at 8:29 am

Julie-Prayers your way as you attempt the summit. You can do it! Kara & Cindy

Posted by: Kara on 12/10/2012 at 10:00 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Exploring Around Namche

March 18, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 11,300'

Taking advantage of the clear weather this morning we took a day hike above Namche. The steep steps right out of the door of the tea-house quickly got hearts pumping and we climbed out of the cold morning shadow in Namche into the morning sun above. The trail we followed ascends steeply up the hillside, making dozens of short switchbacks as it gains the flat plateau above. By the time we arrived the top, at over 12,000', we were breathing hard, feeling the effects of the new elevation. Thankfully, the trail flattened out and walked across the gentle plateau through clusters of juniper trees and fields of grass cropped short by grazing yaks. We reached the edge of the broad bench of Namche and were greeted to incredible views of the mountains higher up the valley. Hardly a cloud hung in the sky and we could clearly see Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Taboche, and Cholatse - all famous peaks of the region. Above them all stood Everest, it's recognizable triangular summit hanging in the sky above. The winds in the upper mountains were blowing strongly this morning and the peaks had plumes of blown snow trailing off their summits and ridges. We gazed out at the mountains for a bit and then continued walking to the Everest View Hotel where we found a seat on the back patio and treated ourselves to a cup of tea while enjoying the views. Afterward, we continued on to the village of Khumjung, a large village near Namche and where the Sir Edmund Hillary School is located - serving kids all over the region. The school was quiet since they are in the midst of their final exams but a few young boys were outside playing in the school grounds. We passed through the school and made our way back along a stone lined trail to the edge of the bench above Namche and dropped back down into town, completing a large loop. We spent the afternoon back in Namche, taking advantage of the down time to grab a hot shower, track down an espresso at the local bakery, and peruse the many small shops on Namche. Tomorrow we leave Namche and head further up the valley to the village of Deboche. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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I am with you guys every step of the way. I love the details. I did Annapurna BC last year and plan to do EBC & Island Peak in 2013. TREK-ON!

Posted by: Dan on 3/19/2012 at 10:50 am

You all look so comfortable in the Khumbu - I say face east and take a left at base camp and head up the mountain!! Linden- your write-ups make me feel as if I am there with you all, sans the altitude. Girls- keep well and have FUN! Renee- right behind you so trek on. Richmond is warm and all the trees are blooming- pollen city soon. LOVE to you all plus Linden and Jeff.

Posted by: Elsie on 3/19/2012 at 5:56 am

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Glacier Peak: Smith and Team Top Out on Glacier Peak

July 21, 2022

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Erika Birkeland, Mira Schoeberlein

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 10,541'

RMI Guide Hannah Smith reported beautiful climbing conditions from Glacier Peak today. The team went 100% to the top of one of Washington's most remote volcanoes. The team spends two days trekking into camps before starting their summit attempt. The team is staying at White Pass Camp to enjoy some well-deserved rest before descending to the trailhead tomorrow.

Congrats team!

Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Cruise to 11,000ft Camp

May 29, 2022

Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 3:45 pm PT

We woke up to yet another splitter morning. We enjoyable clear skies, and cool temperatures while eating our oatmeal around 4 AM. After enjoying the quick breakfast, and some hot drinks we made quick work of breaking down camp, and caching anything we didn't need to bring uphill. By 6 AM the teams were all roped up, and we had begun our trip up Ski Hill. With the sun not finally making an appearance until about 9500', the snow surface remained firm and supportable, which made for another day of fast, efficient movement. In no time, we were rolling into our new home at 11,000' Camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Mt. Rainier: June 17, 2022 Update

June 17, 2022

Posted by: Bryan Mazaika, Matias Francis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

High winds kept the Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Bryan Mazaika and Matias Francis at Camp Muir overnight. The guides repoted an upper level cloud deck at 11,000' with a lower level cloud deck just above Paradise at 6,000'.

The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.

Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Arrive At High Camp

July 23, 2022

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 15,200'

Saturday, July 23, 2022 - 4:48 am PT

Excitement is building for all of us on the team. Our summit bid comes in a short 12 hours and the camp crew is hustling to get all ready for our efforts.

Our climbing team is equally excited as we move into our tents and get organized for the climb tonight. The good weather we've been enjoying has gotten even better the past two days and looks to hold for us tonight. We'll be doing lunch shortly where we'll have time to go over all the details that will help us be successful tonight. Then, some time to organize, an early dinner and bed by 6:00pm.

We're all ready to climb this mountain after an easy day today. Less than three hours of slow walking was a perfect way to get to this camp. We're in the volcanic zone now and have left the shrubs and greenery behind for more. Everyone is in excellent shape and feeling well at our High Camp at 15,200'.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Should be summiting right about now! Continued prayers!

Posted by: Caitlin Neal on 7/24/2022 at 6:13 am

Praying for great summit climb.

Posted by: Karen Szczesniak on 7/23/2022 at 4:50 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden Recounts Summit Day

April 1, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 12,700'

The days since our last dispatch were packed full of activity as we headed out to climb Island Peak. After saying goodbye to the trekking group, we walked up the Imja Khola Valley to the village of Chukung, a small collection of teahouses sitting between Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Island Peak. Our teahouse is run by a Sherpani woman and her two daughters and they welcomed us warmly, feeding us a hearty dal bhat (Nepali rice and lentils) which we unanimously agreed is the best to be found in the Khumbu. Before going to sleep we pared down our gear in anticipation of the climb, taking with us just the gear we needed for the climb. In the morning we left Chukung and made the final walk to the base of Island Peak. A sharp wind blew as we walked, making the morning feel much colder than it was, and we made our way through the dusty and rocky terrain bundled up to stay warm. We reached Base Camp by midday and settled into our tents there, enjoying the warmth of the sun through the tent walls. The wind died off by mid afternoon and we spent a comfortable evening in the tents at Base Camp. The following morning broke clear but again with a cold wind blowing through camp. We packed up our gear and headed up to High Camp. The trail climbs steeply out of camp, making tight switchbacks up the hillside. The thin alpine grasses covering the ground soon gave away to rocks and boulders as we left the last sparse vegetation behind. High Camp is tucked into the rocks on the mountain side just below 18,000' and the walking between tents required full attention, especially at those altitudes. We spent the rest of the afternoon resting and preparing for the climb. In the early evening the clouds descended over the mountain and left a thin layer of snow covering everything and we went to bed concerned that more snow could abort our summit attempt. Thankfully the night sky full of stars greeted us when we woke up just before 2am, the climb was on! We forced down a quick breakfast, no easy task at that hour or that elevation, and set off. The first few hours of climbing took us up a series of steep rocky gullies and occasional ledges. The normally tricky walking was magnified by the layer of freshly fallen snow but we made good progress, reaching the toe of the glacier just after sunrise. We strapped on our crampons and climbed up and across the glacier to the base of the headwall below Island Peak's summit. Clipping into the fixed lines there, we climbed our way up the headwall, crossing the bergshcrund and working our way up the steep icy face. The headwall was a mix of smooth ice and ledges several feet apart and it was difficult climbing, especially with no place to pause and catch our breaths. Nevertheless, the team climbed steadily and before long we stood on the ridge leading up the summit. The final hundred feet of climbing took us up a narrow snow ridge, with thousands of feet of exposure on each side, until we reached the top, a small flat area no bigger than the size of a pool table. The views from the summit were incredible, the ridge between Lhotse and Nuptse rising directly behind us, Makalu visible in the distance, Ama Dablam off to the side, and the entire upper portion of the Khumbu Valley running out below us. After a brief moment to celebrate, we turned our attention to the descent, carefully picking our way down the ridge to the top of the headwall. As we clipped into the ropes to rappel down the headwall the snow once again began to fall and the temperatures dropped, making the rope changes at the end of each rappel section difficult with cold hands. We slowly made our way down the series of five rappels to the foot of the headwall, and then recrossed the glacier back to the rocks. The final portion of the descent was very challenging with the added snow and tired legs but everyone traveled remarkably well, crossing the slick rock slabs and descending the rock steps with sure feet. We returned back to High Camp in the late afternoon and after a delicious dinner, collapsed into a deep night's sleep. This morning we descended from High Camp back to Chukung where we paused for a lunch of Sherpa Stew (thick vegetable soup) and then continued down the valley to Pangboche, at 12,700'. The change of scenery from the rocks and snow on Island Peak to the fields and juniper trees here in Pangboche is remarkable, we have spent many days up high and being back down at these (relatively) low altitudes feels great. And the warm fire burning here in the teahouse is a true treat. The team climbed incredibly well on Island Peak, doing a great job of navigating the terrain and challenging conditions. We are all feeling good and happy to be heading downhill. We descend to Namche tomorrow and will check in from there. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great report and wonderful pictures. Those are some mighty happy, pretty and tired looking faces!

Posted by: Thurston on 4/2/2012 at 8:28 am

Congrats ALL! I’m sitting here in Cannon Beach, OR watching the Pacific crash into the beach, enjoying my 2nd cup of coffee Linden (I know you have your pot!) & just got caught up on the blog.
I still literally dream (and its been almost a year now) about my summit experience with Linden, Kala Sherpa & team on ImJa Tse—thank goodness for the Sherpa who smoked that cigarette at 20k’ as we were resting in the saddle at the top of the wall—it revived me (don’t smoke, but it was kinda like smelling salts for me & cleared the cobwebs).
Nice touch in staying at High Camp one nite after Summit Day too, as that walk all the way back to ChuKung was tough last year—I vaguely remember stumbling in by the stove & almost falling asleep sitting in my plastic chair.
Enough of me—you all will forever remember this experience & it will be something you continually look back on as a source of inspiration & strength—I PROMSE!
It is truly an amazing Big Blue Ball we all get to live on & experience.
Enjoy the walk out “Into Thick Air!”
BTW—Training going well for Denali Linden—hopefully I’ll be ready. :)
Tim

Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 4/2/2012 at 7:40 am

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Mexico Volcanoes: Davis & Team Enjoy Rest Day Exploring Puebla

January 21, 2022

Posted by: Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

After a much need night of sleep in sheets and a good shower, we woke to the sultry sounds of automobiles, street vendors, university students, and music in the colorful city of Puebla. It always feels like going back in time walking up to buildings and streets built by skilled hands several millennia ago. We grubbed on a good breakfast of mole poblano and cafe con leche, then dispersed to make the most of our day out of synthetic apparel and climbing boots and proudly donned our flip flops with cotton. Some of us toured a world renown ceramic factory while others wandered the bright Zocola after getting a massage to work out the kinks from the previous climb. As usual the colonial hamlet of Puebla did not disappoint, and we found ourselves basking in the glow of a rest day earned.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

Mt. Rainier: July 19th Summits!

July 19, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Brent Okita, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier North Cascades

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs for July 16 - 19 reached the summit today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral reported clear skies and moderate winds on the summit this morning. RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz to the summit also. The team will descend back to their high camp for a final night on the mountain. In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Eric Frank and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak yesterday. The team is making their final descending today and returning to the trail head. Near by, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the SE Ridge. Congratulations to today's summit teams!

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Most Popular Entries

Vinson Massif: Rest Day for the Team

Vinson Massif: Team Carries to High Camp

On The Map

Everest Base Camp Trek: Exploring Around Namche

On The Map

Glacier Peak: Smith and Team Top Out on Glacier Peak

Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Cruise to 11,000ft Camp

Mt. Rainier: June 17, 2022 Update

Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Arrive At High Camp

Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden Recounts Summit Day

Mexico Volcanoes: Davis & Team Enjoy Rest Day Exploring Puebla

Mt. Rainier: July 19th Summits!

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