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Entries from Alaska


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Back Carry to 11K Camp

Tuesday, June 8, 2021 - 1:54 am PT

We’ve been working quite hard to do our due diligence to get all moved to Denali's 11K camp before the forecasted storm moved in. And today we did just that. As we were returning from our cache at 9,800' the storm hit in full force, but that was no issue for us as we had a fortified camp built and now have all our supplies with us at 11K camp.

We are currently hunkered in our tents listening to the wind blow and the snow pile up. We are all eagerly anticipating a much deserved rest day tomorrow.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Pulling for all of you to get where you need to be!  And remember, the sooner you fall behind, the more time you’ll have to catch up! (Sorry, stupid parent joke) Jack, just pretend you don’t know us.

Posted by: Barb and John The Parents on 6/10/2021 at 6:49 pm

Watching your progress and hoping for good weather and safe travels!
M

Posted by: Ellen on 6/10/2021 at 6:14 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team R&R at 14,200’

Monday, June 7, 2021 - 2:31 pm PT

We got some more snow last night and woke again to calm and clear weather. After yesterday’s trip up the fixed lines we figured another night at Denali's 14K Camp would help people acclimate and sleep better before moving to high camp at 17,200’. We are expecting a low pressure weather system to roll in this evening. If it does then we will likely be at 14 for a few more days. If it doesn’t appear then we will likely move up to high camp tomorrow. Time and weather will tell. Until then, warm tents and some card games will keep us occupied. The team is healthy and happy but looking forward to moving up. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like a great vacation to me at 14k! Thanks for the updates Mike. Good luck and good weather ahead to all!

Posted by: Darcy Murnaghan on 6/8/2021 at 2:06 pm

Not exactly my idea of R&R conditions, but it sounds like from Mike that the weather is primo for your climb.  Getting excited about the summit!  Best to Rob and team.
Tita and Artie

Posted by: Martha Sabom on 6/8/2021 at 12:41 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Caches at 16,000’

Sunday, June 6, 2021 - 3:43 pm PT

We got an early start from Denali's 14K Camp. The route up to the fixed lines was in the cold shadow of the mountain. This let the team feel how cold their toes and fingers will be on summit day. We climbed up the fixed lines that allow us to access the West Buttress of Denali. The weather was clear and calm at the top. We got some pictures and decided to cache there and head back to camp instead of dealing with descending traffic later in the day. Another active rest day has us enjoying warm tents and sport eating to decrease the amount of food weight we down carry. We’ll likely rest tomorrow and see what the forecast says about a move and summit attempt mid-late week.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Please send our best to Rob. We are following along the trip and enjoying all the updates and pictures. What an amazing trip! We can’t wait to hear all about it when Rob gets home! Safe travels up- Manuel & Melissa

Posted by: Melissa Zuniga on 6/7/2021 at 8:30 am

I wish I was on your team Tom!!! Climb Strong Buddy!!! Take in every Incredible memory!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/7/2021 at 2:33 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Carry to 9,800’

Sunday, June 6, 2021 - 6:57 am PT

We woke up this afternoon after a delightful day of sleeping, and once again avoided the heat on our carry to 9,800 feet. We are now all prepped and ready to move to Denali's 11,000-foot camp as soon as weather permits!

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Vano HATES the sun

Posted by: Heater on 6/7/2021 at 7:22 am

Outstanding stuff! Good luck and be safe! Godspeed gents.

Posted by: Greg on 6/6/2021 at 9:20 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Rest Day at 14,200’

Saturday, June 5, 2021 - 8:22 pm PT

We had another calm and cold night here at 14,200’. The need for a rest day allowed the team to get some skills refreshed on fixed line travel and running belays. Both of which will let us go up on the West Buttress tomorrow to cache some food and fuel for our summit attempt. The Team went out to the Edge of the World viewpoint for some pictures and views of the N.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Warm tents and lots of sun have the team enjoying some time out of their boots and hopefully getting a nap in. We will see what the weather holds over the next few days. We might get 3-4 weather days starting Monday which would allow for some more acclimatizing before heading to high camp at 17,200’. So far everyone is healthy and happy to be in such a beautiful part of the Alaska Range.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Tom and Mike!! Sending Sunny warm thoughts and Strong legs and lungs!! I am with you in spirit Buddy!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/7/2021 at 2:29 am

Keep going Michael, so proud of you!  What a beautiful experience!

Posted by: Michelle on 6/6/2021 at 4:28 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Arrive at Camp One

Saturday, June 5, 2021 - 10:49 am PT

After a couple of relatively inactive days, we left base camp like a bunch of caged animals who had recently tasted freedom for the first time.

The crew walked across the Kahiltna with confidence and strength under a clear Alaskan night sky, only a few clouds hanging like ornaments from the peaks of Denali, Foraker, Crosson and the Kahiltna dome.

We made it to camp one in great time, the snow having frozen to a beautiful supportable crust that felt more convenient to walk across than a city sidewalk, and the temperatures were ideal for carrying heavy loads.

We are now hiding from another boisterous Alaskan sun, watching the snow melt and looking forward to some much needed and deserved rest before we wake up this evening to hopefully carry tonight.

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and Team 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

BREAKING: Tom Brady has was released by the Tampa Bay Buccaneers early Sunday morning after the NFL concluded that he will be stripped of his prior 6 rings due to more confirmed allegations of cheating.

Posted by: Adam Schefter on 6/6/2021 at 6:51 am

TRAPPIN OUT DA WRAIF IN DA WINTA

Posted by: Likka on 6/5/2021 at 7:09 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Active Rest Day

Friday, June 4, 2021 - 7:22 pm PT

It’s different living at 14,200’. The air is colder, you get winded easier and stoves don’t burn as efficient. We slept in today and waited for the sun to hit our tents before heading down to get our cache at 13,500’. The group did well and we were back in camp for an active rest day. The guides finished the kitchen/dining tent and the climbers enjoyed the views of Mt. Foraker and Mt Hunter. Our 3rd RMI team descended from 17K Camp after a successful summit. Warm tents and good conversations passed the afternoon quickly and we are getting ready for dinner. To better acclimate we’ll take a rest day tomorrow and see what the weather brings.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rest well Mike , Tom and team!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/6/2021 at 3:31 am

Keep up the good work Two-Dads! Just reading this blog makes me feel tired

Posted by: Adam on 6/5/2021 at 7:39 pm


Schmitt & Team Fly onto Denali to Start Their Expedition

Friday, June 4, 2021 - 3:09 pm PT

After our dry run yesterday, we got to do the real thing today. We landed on to the Kahiltna at precisely 10 am, and boy was it already hot! We were hoping to hit the ground running, but talking to teams coming off the lower Kahiltna and looking at the temps we decided to take the day to review skills, dig a cache and organize.

Due to the hot temps we are switching to a night schedule so we will sleep through the heat of the day today and depart when things firm up! Morale is high and we are super excited to be on the mountain!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kyle & Team: We’re thinking of you and wish you the best. You’ve got this! -Jonas and everyone in Anchorage.

Posted by: Jonas Walker on 6/6/2021 at 9:45 am

Happy to hear about you progress. Sounds toasty. Use that sunscreen,

Posted by: richard loftus aka Kiira's Gramps on 6/5/2021 at 2:54 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14K Camp

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 9:59 pm PT

We got up and packed up camp this morning with blue skies and little to no wind. Having just put in a cache at 13,500’ the terrain would not be new. A warmer day than yesterday had us stuck at times behind slower moving parties. We got to 14,200’ camp located in Genet Basin having done a lot of hard work but the Team built camp and we are getting ready for a late dinner. We got a chance to see 2 of 3 RMI teams as they descended from high camp this evening. Tomorrow we will sleep in, pick up our cache and continue to improve camp. No need to go up high until we get a few nights here and some well earned rest. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This is Awesome news!!  Enjoy every moment , every beautiful view! Climb Strong Tom!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:47 am

Great to see blue skies and improved weather. Get needed rest and move ahead. Thank you for in insight and photography. Tell Rob hello, Tio

Posted by: Kleberg Tio on 6/4/2021 at 12:56 pm


RMI Guide Eric Frank Calls from the Denali Summit!

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 6:15 pm PT

Good afternoon! This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling on June 3rd from the summit of Denali, the highest point in North America. We are up here on a beautiful afternoon, in-and-out of the clouds. Sometimes we can see 100 miles; sometimes we can only see our climbing boots. We had an awesome climb today. Started off a little chilly in the shade, but all-in-all it has been a wonderful day of climbing.  We are enjoying 15 minutes on top right now. It is about 5:15 local time. We are going to pack up and head downhill where we should be back between 9 and 10 pm tonight.  Thanks everyone for following along.  Friends and family- I am sure you’ll be happy to hear from your respective individuals in a few days.  Our hope is to move down to a lower elevation, thicker air and catch a plane to the land of burgers and beer within a couple of days.  Thanks for following along. Bye.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Denali summit!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

E-L-L-I-O-T

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!

Enjoy the peace and wonder of your celebratory lap down mountain.

Love ya, proud of ya - period.

Sláinte

The Old Man

 

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/5/2021 at 6:35 pm

Awesome Job Eric!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:50 am

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