Entries from Aconcagua
Not a lot to report on our last rest day at Base Camp. The crew has been keeping busy reading, jamming tunes, tanning, etc. RMI Guide Leon Davis lead the guys through a knot and anchor session that everyone found interesting. Other than that we've just been chilling, trying not to be anxious about the big day tomorrow on our move to Camp 1. We'll check in from over 16k tomorrow!
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
P.S. William would also like to wish his son John a very happy birthday! He wishes he could be there to share it with you.
On The Map
Today's plans called for our first foray onto the mountain above basecamp. After a quick breakfast the crew got busy organizing loads of both personal and group gear, food for nearly 12 days, and a couple of gallons of fuel. We then set out for Camp 1 climbing along a lateral moraine, crossing a glacial remnant, and finally ascending a long scree slope (brutally loose) into the camp at over 16,000'. We put a cache together, took a nap in the sun, and then cruised back down to Plaza Argentina. All in all, we spent a little less than 7 hours in the field and the team performed exceptionally well. The guys were really excited to finally get down to the nitty gritty of climbing this thing.
Tired but happy in Plaza Argentina,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, and the gang.
Greetings from our rest day here at Plaza Argentina. After a lazy morning lounging in our tents we convened in our weather port for a terrific brunch of bacon, eggs, and of course REAL coffee. Most of us felt a bit ragged from our first night at nearly 14,000' but after a solid meal everyone seems to have bounced back and they're all enjoying another beautiful day reading, playing cards, and the like.
Leon and I are spending the afternoon drinking mate and packing up our supplies for tomorrow's carry up to Camp 1.
Adios,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Go Team Nugent!! Billy - excited to follow your progress on this trip. I should have gotten my stuff together last week and gone with you guys. Hopefully Cotopaxi with you in June. Safe travels in the meantime
Posted by: matt wilburn on 2/6/2012 at 5:20 pm
Big Bruce -following you here in hot Northern va.Guys at S&H worldgate also. Any chicks with you!
Posted by: ED Gramm on 2/6/2012 at 6:29 am
After our third consecutive day of walking we've finally arrived at Aconcagua Basecamp in beautiful Plaza Argentina (13,800'). After a nice snack we settled in to camp by setting up our tents and then enjoying a wonderful steak dinner courtesy of the great Grajales staff. Leon and I also pulled a little surprise of our own with some Cabernet for the team to celebrate our arrival. Who says that you can't eat great while mountaineering? Anyway, tomorrow calls for a needed rest day as we can all certainly feel the effects of our new altitude...
Ciao from base camp,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Day two on the trail was another splitter day with a great breeze to keep the heat at bay. Our team rolled out of camp at about nine this morning and enjoyed a great stretch of trail into the next camp at Casa de Piedra. Currently we're lounging riverside and soaking up some afternoon sun. Although everybody's chilling now, our first glimpse of the mountain today was a reminder of the prospective climb ahead and all of the hard work that entails. We'll check in again tomorrow from Aconcagua basecamp at Plaza Argentina after we climb up through the Relinchos Valley...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, & the team
Posted by: Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
The team awoke in Penitentes this morning to blue skies and plenty of sunshine to greet us for our first day on the trail. We spent the better part of the morning tying up loose ends and finishing our preparations for the herrieros. A comfortable breeze was blowing all day which tempered the heat and made the walk in to Pampa de Lenas most enjoyable. An early arrival in camp meant a nice little siesta in the sun before the mules arrived with our supplies. After dining on spaghetti with meat sauce the crew has mostly retired to their tents except for a few avid stargazers who are psyched to see the southern sky for the first time. The group is made up of a bunch of great people and we are all feeling the excitement of finally getting this adventure underway!
That's about all for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Bruce: Be safe! See you when you get back and we have that CA wine waiting for you!
—Randy
Posted by: Randy on 2/11/2012 at 5:38 pm
Bruce and Michael: Randy and Amy here—sure looks like an amazing climb. Ready for a banquet when you return to VA.
Amy
Posted by: Amy on 2/11/2012 at 5:33 pm
Posted by: Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Well, we have finally made it to Penitentes and finished packing up all of our junk that we'll need on the mountain for the next few weeks. The loads are readied for the mules to shuttle into basecamp for us and we are all very excited about hitting the trail tomorrow!
After a quick breakfast this morning at our hotel we headed out in Mendoza to pay for and secure the paperwork for our climbing permits. What sounds like an easy task is actually not so simple when you have to run all over town to complete each stage of the permitting process in a different building across town. Luckily for us everything went off without a hitch and after running a few more errands the team was checked out of the hotel and headed out to Penitentes where we have been staging for the rest of this afternoon/evening. Tomorrow we´ll leave the loads for the herrieros (muleteers) and catch a shuttle out to Punta de Vacas which is our trail head at the mouth of the Vacas Valley. The weather thus far has been quite comfortable so we´re hoping that it can hold for a few more days affording us a nice walk in to Aconcagua Basecamp.
That´s all for now, we´ll check in via satellite phone tomorrow evening from our first camp along the approach.
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, and the rest of the crew.
Sending my best fro great weather and exciting hike!
Posted by: Sharon Clarke on 2/2/2012 at 6:41 am
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
First off, a big hello to everyone who's following along!
The team convened today on the beautiful city of Mendoza a bit tired from a long stretch of travel but no worse for the wear. Some of us chose to enjoy a late lunch while others chilled poolside for the remainder of the afternoon. The trip did not really begin in earnest until the official team meeting at 6 pm this evening. After the meeting we had a quick gear check and then headed out on the town for a classic Argentine dinner. By classic of course I mean beef and malbec wine. The crew is positive and enthusiastic about the adventure on Aconcagua that lies ahead! Tomorrow will be a busy day obtaining our permits and tying up loose ends on our way out of town and up to Penitentes where we will stage for an evening before hitting the trail...
That is all for now,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent & Leon Davis
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hello again from team Aconcagua. Sorry it has been awhile but the last few days have been very busy on our end. Now that we are back in Mendoza sipping red wine and eating great beef we can fill you in on the mountain adventures.
Last Thursday, the 19th, we moved from our Camp 2 at 18,000' to Camp Colera (meaning: anger) at 19,600'. It was a short move under beautifully clear skies, but we were tired nonetheless from the thin air. We set camp, ate dinner early, and prepared for the early start of our summit push.
The stoves were kicked on early at 3 am to start the long process of boiling water for breakfast at altitude (I believe we are picking up a theme: the length of time it takes to do anything at high altitude is very, very long). We had a beautiful, warm, calm morning for the culmination of our goal. The moon was a sliver, but showing at the bottom, like a saucer, rather than the side as we usually see it in the northern hemisphere. At 5 am, bags were packed with food, water, and extra clothes and storm gear for our day. Crampons were on our feet, and we began the ascent from camp under the light of headlamps, wearing our parkas.
There were many groups headed for the summit with us since the weather was supposed to get worse the following day and for several days after. Many groups, like us, had moved their schedule up in order to take advantage of the end of our weather window. The climb travels many switchbacks up a series of benches to our second break at the Independencia Hut, elevation: 21,000 ft. As we reached it, streams of headlamps from fellow climbers stretched below us. Taking a break here, we refueled our bodies with hot cocoa and alfajors, an Argentine treat. As the horizon began to show signs of light, we started the long traverse to the base of the Canaleta, which is a large snow couloir that takes you to the summit. Despite the thin air and tired legs, the team was feeling strong as we climbed the last couple of hours and last 1,000 ft to the summit. It was 1:40pm as the last of our boots stepped onto the top of the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere. We celebrated together with hugs and cheers and relished in the moment for what we had just accomplished. Although we could have stayed on top for hours, the clouds and snow were rolling in and forcing us to start the long descent back to our camp and our sleeping bags.
We arrived back at camp at 4:30pm, just as the wind was starting to pick up and our bodies were starting to fully tire. Everyone quickly jumped into their sleeping bags and enjoyed an evening of ramen noodles and an early bedtime. The next morning we woke with sore legs and headaches from dehydration, but everyone was ready for another long descent back to base camp. We broke down camp and at 11am we headed back to Camp 2 and eventually Camp 1 to pick up both personal and group gear that we had cached days before. This is the worst part of any expedition, since our packs get heavier with each previous camp we visit. As we left camp 1 to make the last push down to base camp, our packs were weighing upwards of 25 kilos. We walked into base camp at 4:45pm with huge smiles on our faces and were greeted with tang and fresh fruit from the Grajales crew. As we chatted and laughed about where we had just been the previous day, we realized that the hardest and most dangerous part of our trip was over and we had all made it down safely. We feasted on steak and papas fritas that night and toasted to our 14 days on the mountain. We slept well that night with full bellies and happy hearts, resting up for the 21 mile walk out of the valley and back to the entrance of the provincial park.
Fourteen days doesn't seem like that long a time, but Sunday we realized how deprived of color we had been, as we walked past brilliant green and yellow clumps of flowers descending the Relinchos valley towards home. Our packs were light and birds were singing nearby, making our steps light and quick. As the day wore on however, our steps slowed as the 15 miles we had to walk that day ticked past. An exciting river crossing of the Vacas river found many of the group in their skiveys, wading through thigh deep glacial waters. The late afternoon temps made the cool water dip welcome however. The last few miles were a long affair, but we arrived in camp to the smell of the arrearos cooking us a feast of an asada. One pound of slow cooked steak per person, tomato salad, fresh baked bread, and local malbec wine sent everyone to bed with full stomachs and a beautiful, uninterrupted view of the stars. Most chose to sleep outside of the tents, for views of the southern cross, and beyond!
Six miles of walking the next morning brought us to Punta de Vacas and the end of our walking! Everyone piled into the van for a tired drive to Mendoza. Showers, and shaves brought everyone back to life, and Monday night the group enjoyed a celebratory dinner at the "patio," a local parilla (Brazilian style steak house but Argentinian!). The group dreamed up a wonderful way to commemorate the climb: a locally published coffee table book of Aconcagua that each signed to everyone else, so that we'll remember the faces, friendships, experiences, and stories that we have grown over the last three weeks.
The guides would like to thank an incredible team of climbers for their dedication, strength, perseverance, and laughter. Gabi's 25th was a special one. And further, the team would like to thank everyone for their notes, thoughts, and positive vibes while we were headed to the highest point in the western hemisphere!
Goodnight and good luck,
The RMI Aconcagua Crew
Way to go Wally Glover and the rest of the team!
Dan in Indy.
Posted by: Dan Meno on 1/27/2012 at 3:31 pm
Can’t wait to hear all about this adventure Tom. From all accounts (including the bloggers reporting) you had a wonderful time and share an experience only a limited few understand. What a memory! Safe journey home tommorow and Saturday.
Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Daisy on 1/26/2012 at 1:51 pm
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral called with great news that our team reached the summit of Aconcagua!
They stood on top at 2 pm (Argentinian time) and are back at high camp happy, healthy, and contently tired. After dinner and a good night's sleep, the team will descend to base camp tomorrow.
Congratulations to RMI Guides Gabriel Barral, Pete Van Deventer, Gilbert Chase and Team!
On The Map
Strong work! Congrats to The Team and our main man Larry. Get back safely. The Shasta “Guys”.
Posted by: Tom F. on 1/26/2012 at 11:49 am
Larry,
Hope all continues to go well. It’s terrific!
Holly
Posted by: holly seaton on 1/24/2012 at 8:59 am
Go “Old man” William! We want to hear that you’ve conquered Aconcagua ... and miss you at tennis! For the others, make certain to help out this old guy- if he needs it!
xxx
Paul and Margie
Posted by: Paul Taylor on 2/13/2012 at 6:23 pm
The view from above the base camp is remarkable. From what I’ve seen of thepictures, the team is in for quite a scenic reward upon reaching the summit. Keep your eyes set on the top! Best to all.
Posted by: Sharon Clarke on 2/8/2012 at 6:27 am
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