Entries from Denali
May 25, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 11:32 pm PT
Things were pretty perfect this morning to take a burn on the fixed lines. When we move to 17,000' Camp, it will be with just the essentials. We'll leave luxury items, switch from burritos to freeze dried meals, and go with the plan to get the job done and get back down to thicker air. Thus, there really isn't much that we can cache between here and 17,000'. Instead of caching, our goal was to climb to to higher altitude to keep the acclimatization process progressing, and to get a chance to see the fixed lines without heavy packs. Our packs were light, the sky was clear, and conditions generally calm. We had a wonderful climb up to 16,200', spent a few minutes enjoying the views, then headed back down.
The fixed lines often spark some anxiety: how hard are they, how steep, we can't stop and take a break?!? After a practice run on them those nerves were quelled. Everybody was happy to get a chance with light packs and feel ready to go again, when we move to 17,000' Camp for the summit push. Seems that there is a bit of wind up high the next couple of days so we'll likely wait that out, and then hit the go button when things calm down again. So rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
May 25, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 7:42 pm PT
What a day it was today! We were able to cache at 13,500 ft. The winds were calm all day, and the clouds were only below us, which created a sense of floating through the sky as we carried out gear up the mountain.
Now we are back at 11,000' Camp, all safe and sound!!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
May 24, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
We woke to a cold, clear sky this morning and fired up the stoves with hopes of climbing up to High Camp. Real time communication with friends currently at High Camp, and updated weather forecasts kept us grounded, though. The current wind and an increasingly windy trend are keeping us at our comfortable camp at 14,200' today. We continue to rest and acclimate as we await favorable weather for our foray up high. Spirits are high and we are optimistic that we will get our shot soon.
Until then, we are lounging in the sun, reading, listening to music, and hanging out--all part of the expedition experience. We will keep you updated on our status. As we patiently wait for our chance to move higher, we are happy to be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Been keeping up with the updates - I am excited and proud of this crew and this climb. You’ll move up the mountain soon and we are all on the edge of our seats for it!
We are cheering you all on! (Love you, Abby!)
Happy and strong climbing!
Posted by: Rae on 5/25/2022 at 6:18 am
An outstanding experience that is for sure. Hope your reasonable weather is coming soon. Stay safe and enjoy the wait. Always thinking of you
Posted by: Anne on 5/24/2022 at 8:06 pm
May 24, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 24, 2022 - 10:39 pm PT
We woke up hopeful to take a jaunt up the fixed lines this morning. The sky was clear above and it was nice in camp. As we fired the stoves and the sun got nearer to rounding the ridge though, we started seeing large plumes of snow jetting of the summit plateau, then 17,000' Camp, then the whole ridge and the top of the fixed line. It was really nice in camp but we made the decision it wasn't a day to go up into the wind and pivoted instead to walking across the basin to The Edge of the World (our British friends call it The End of the World). From there the basin plummets to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna, some 6000' feet below. We got glimpses of those views but a cliff was rising up from the Glacier obscuring the full magnitude of the place. We were back by early afternoon and took a siesta. Some built a card table out of snow blocks and played eucher until they couldn't feel their backsides. We'll look again in the morning hopeful to make the trip up the fixed lines if conditions allow.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
We really appreciate your everyday news.
Here’s some advice I got from my granddaughter as she climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro:
You climb and go for the summit for your ego.
You climb and take every step for your soul.
Much love, John and the team, Mom
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/25/2022 at 11:12 am
Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well on the mountain. Ask Carl if he packed his magic cards. Wish you all a great weather window on your ascent to 17 camp! Best of luck to all. Ron
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 5/25/2022 at 7:41 am
May 24, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 23, 2022 - 6:10 pm PT
Today we awoke to a world of synchronized visual perception, everything was the same milky white, the sky, the ground and the thin cover of frost draped over all the man made intrusions on this arctic alpine environment. Quite a stark contrast from the last few days of around the clock blue skies.
Despite the lack of visibility we still prepared to carry our gear as if the weather wasn’t part of the equation, hoping the eternal Alaskan summer sun would penetrate the trillions of suspended water molecules, and provide us with the conditions so desired to continue the task of climbing this mountain.
Unfortunately that didn’t happen soon enough, so we decided to use our time in the next most productive way, resting. The team enjoyed letting our bodies recuperate and help red blood cell counts climb after four days of work.
Tomorrow we will see what the mountain sends our way and keep you all posted!
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team
Enjoy the rest little gomie :) Back to work tomorrow!
Posted by: Pat Breen on 5/24/2022 at 2:38 pm
Enjoy the rest day!!
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/24/2022 at 9:15 am
May 23, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 11:33 pm PT
After a solid bit of work yesterday, and due to the team going the extra mile on the carry day and going all the way to 14,000' Camp, today was a full blown rest day. We waited for the sun to hit the tents, brewed up coffee and made brunch burritos, and spent the day enjoying the fine weather. We spent a bit of time this evening refreshing our fixed line skills to prep for an initial trip up the headwall. That might be tomorrow, or we might wait, weather depending.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
Thank you so much for the beautiful photo and news. Hope the good weather holds out as well as
your bodies, minds, and spirits. Can’t wait to hear all the stories. You all are in our prayers. Mom/Barbara
Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/24/2022 at 7:41 am
Any euchre tournements up there Stu?
Posted by: Jay Kessler on 5/23/2022 at 8:41 am
May 23, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 22, 2022 - 10:15 pm PT
Back carry day.
Today was a little more relaxed than the last few, although we still got up early to beat the heat. We walked downhill to retrieve our gear from our cache, with commanding views of Foraker and Crosson. We were back at 11,000ft Camp by 11 in the morning and spent the rest of the day eating pancakes and reviewing mountaineering skills.
Weather permitting we hope to cache as close to 14,000' camp as we can tomorrow!
Thanks for following along.
RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team
Woop woop! Awesome work everyone and lots of love to Sam and Clare!
Posted by: Caleb Huntington on 5/23/2022 at 1:39 pm
Amazing photos. And glad for the sunshine and great progress. Houstons are glued to the blog!
Posted by: AMY HOUSTON on 5/23/2022 at 9:38 am
May 22, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Sunday May 22, 2022 – 3:21pm PT
We're enjoying another rest day in Genet Basin at 14,200'. The weather is pretty agreeable down here: light cloud cover and calm wind. Lenticular cloud caps have formed over Denali and Foraker, indicating higher winds aloft.
Our team is in a good position, rested, acclimated, and with a cache established up high. Now we're on standby for a favorable weather window to allow us to move to high camp and have a shot at the summit. The forecast is not terrible, but there are a series of disorganized low-pressure systems moving in from the NW. We're optimistic that there will be a break between systems and well get some good climbing weather.
Until then, we're comfortably enjoying the views, the rest, the snacking, and the comradery. We'll keep you posted on our status as we monitor the weather trends and receive forecast updates. We'll be in touch again tomorrow.
Hope the weather clears and wishing everyone the best. Godspeed for a safe ascent to the peak. I know Mr. Corona has several great stories to keep moral high :)
Posted by: Carlos Coro on 5/23/2022 at 12:26 pm
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 11:02 pm PT
Things were perfect to move to 14,000' Camp today when we woke up, except that all of camp had the same idea too, and were up early as well. We decided it would make a lot of sense to enjoy a good smoked salmon breakfast and let the unbroken line of climbers that stretched from the top of Motorcycle Hill work things out. A few hours later, we were packed, no teams in sight, and we rolled out of camp heading uphill. A high, thin cloud layer and light breeze kept us happily cool through breezy turn. As we came out the other side though, the wind died and it got HOT! We climbed the last bit of elevation and happily arrived at 14,000' Camp. We dug in a nice camp for the next several days next to the first RMI team and gathered for dinner and cherry cheesecake before the chill of our new, higher home drove us to our sleeping bags. Tomorrow is a rest day. We're psyched.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
May 22, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 9:49 pm PT
Today we poked our heads out of our bags just as the sun was doing the same above the eastern horizon. Believe it or not it can be incredibly hot on Denali, and today was one of those days.
We got out and up to 11,000' Camp in great form, just as the inferno hit. We set up camp while the glaciers around us reflected the long wave radiation, making it feel as if we were in a microwave. But regardless we got camp set up and got some time to relax.
It’s been a grueling few days and now we get to enjoy the relative comfort of 11,000' Camp.
That’s all for now.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
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Great to hear!! Sam you’re crushing it!!
Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/25/2022 at 8:30 pm
Great job everybody! Thinking of you every day and hoping you’re having a great climb. Love you Clare and Sam!
Posted by: Kathy Huntington on 5/25/2022 at 3:08 pm
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