Entries from Denali
May 31, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Summit Day Recap - Monday, May 30, 2022
Things were clear and calm this morning and it looked the perfect day to go for the summit. We fired stoves early, ate breakfast as the sun rose on camp, and packed our bags. We left for the Autobahn, a long ascending traverse from 17,000' Camp to Denali pass at 18,000'. To get there, we walked back into the morning shade which kept things chilly, but overall really pleasant. From Denali Pass, we climbed past Zebra rocks, still warm and pleasant and in the sun now. As we rounded the Arch Deacons Tower, the wind caught us. Probably 15-20 mph, but biting. We covered our faces and continued on. We were able to get a bit of respite from it on the Football Field, and up Pig Hill. The summit ridge had plumes streaming over it and it was touch and go whether we would be able to traverse the last piece of terrain. We tried and the initial piece was windy, but we were able to move through it and as we crossed over the ridge we got some protection. We summitted at 5:15pm, tagged the top and took a couple hasty photos, before heading back down.
Tomorrow we will pack camp and start moving towards the air strip. We'll stop to sleep for a few hours at 11,000' or the base of Ski Hill and then be in Base camp to hopefully catch rides back to civilization the following morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
May 31, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 30, 2022 - 10:43 pm PT
Today we rested again at 14,000' Camp. The team has been soaking up the rest, eating lots of food and drinking plenty of fluids. Thanks for following along and we will keep you posted on what we end up doing tomorrow!
Thanks,
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.
Hi JT Schmitt I am your Great Aunt who lives on a farm by Cresco Iowa. Your Granddad Joe is my brother. I am so happy to beable to keep in touch with you way up in the air. I will stay where it is nice and warm. The farming is going good for the farmers around here. Crops all in and growing. I hope to see you in august this year. Hope is works out. Just want to say Hello from Iowa. auntie Joyce PS Be safe you and the rest of the climbers
Posted by: joyce mrachek on 5/31/2022 at 5:28 pm
Rest well. Exciting days ahead!
Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/31/2022 at 8:08 am
May 30, 2022
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT
Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.
Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.
Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm
May 30, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 10:27 pm PT
Unlike two days ago, when we woke up there wasn't a hint of wind in sight. We had word from Mike Walter's team that the weather at 17,000' was perfect to, so we launched out of 14,000' Camp in high spirits. It was one of the most pleasant days I can remember on the West Buttress. Temps were comfortable, no wind, and the views unparalleled. It's also some of the most fun climbing. We were at camp by early afternoon, set up tents, fired an early dinner, and congratulated Mike's team as they came back from the summit. Things look really good for us tomorrow, so fingers crossed, we'll make our push in the morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
C’mon team! Can’t wait to read the post about the summit! Wishing you good weather and strength. Molta força!
Posted by: Anna P on 5/31/2022 at 5:43 am
Congratulations on getting to 17k! I’m so excited for your hopeful push tomorrow. We’re all pulling for you, sending you positive thoughts and intentions. Keep reaching towards your goals, be safe, be amazing!
Posted by: Patrick Schmitz on 5/30/2022 at 8:19 pm
May 30, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 20,310'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 11:20 pm PT
Everything came together for us today and we made a successful summit bid of Denali and, more importantly, we returned to High Camp safely. Clear skies and moderate temperatures made for an enjoyable day of climbing. Light west winds kept a nip to the air all day. The route was in great condition and we got out ahead of everyone so we didn't experience any traffic jams. Our team climbed strong and efficiently, with a round trip time of 9 1/2 hours. Back at camp we ate dinner and worked on rehydrating. Everyone crawled into their tents pretty early for some well-earned and much-needed rest. Tomorrow we'll begin our descent. Our itinerary is up in the air, and first we'll focus on climbing safely back down to 14k. The weather looks good for traveling; we'll keep you posted on our progress. Now it's time for some zzz's.
Congratulations Brad ! I knew you would get it this time. Enjoy this moment. We are all are looking forward to seeing you back home.
Have a safe descent!
Posted by: Brian Beatty on 5/31/2022 at 1:40 pm
WOOHOO!!! Congratulations, Nick and the rest of the crew! Overjoyed for you all!!
Posted by: Rosie Read on 5/31/2022 at 6:07 am
May 29, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:20 pm PT
The team enjoyed a beautiful day at 14,000' Camp today, resting from the days prior and preparing for the days ahead! We are planning to rest again tomorrow, after the last ten days the team deserves it!
RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team
Looks as though you’ve all built quite a lovely camp there at 14K - hard to imagine a better view! (Are those skis near that snow wall? Ambitious!)
Enjoy the rest and thank you for all the updates - they really mean a lot.
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/29/2022 at 11:01 pm
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 3:45 pm PT
We woke up to yet another splitter morning. We enjoyable clear skies, and cool temperatures while eating our oatmeal around 4 AM. After enjoying the quick breakfast, and some hot drinks we made quick work of breaking down camp, and caching anything we didn't need to bring uphill. By 6 AM the teams were all roped up, and we had begun our trip up Ski Hill. With the sun not finally making an appearance until about 9500', the snow surface remained firm and supportable, which made for another day of fast, efficient movement. In no time, we were rolling into our new home at 11,000' Camp.
Hope you are having great time. It is supposed to be 85-90 degrees here for Memorial Day.
Stay safe!!
Posted by: Tom Chandler on 5/30/2022 at 7:31 am
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
May 28 11:42pm PT
After a hard day fighting the wind up high yesterday, we were able to get back to camp and rest and hydrate. Good thing, because this morning dawned perfect and we rallied for another attempt at pushing to high camp. The weather remained perfect all day and our well-acclimated crew made it to High Camp in five hours flat. We arrived at 2pm and spent a few hours building camp and the focused on resting, hydrating, and eating.
The weather forecast is very favorable and we're optimistic that we'll try for the top tomorrow. Fingers crossed, and if things go well, I'll hopefully be able to send a quick satellite message from the top. Now for some sleep before a big day. Either way, I'll check in and let you know what the weather throws at us.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter and RMI Team
Go Nick, go!!!!!
Posted by: Rosie Read on 5/30/2022 at 7:50 am
Can’t wait to read tonight’s blog! To the Top, MAK!
Posted by: Jenn on 5/30/2022 at 4:22 am
May 29, 2022
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 29 12:04am PT
This morning we woke up with the goal of caching gear and food as close to 17 camp as possible. As we passed each of the normal places people cache below 17 camp, such as the top of the fixed lines, below Washburns thumb etc., we just couldn’t find a reason to not keep going.
The weather was perfect, not a whisper of wind, and the views endless. The team was performing extremely well at such high altitude for the first time this trip, not to mention how they floated through the most technical terrain we’ve encountered thus far, so we went all the way to 17,000 ft camp. After digging ourselves a hole to cache in, we retraced our steps back down the west buttress and the fixed lines until we rolled into camp just as the shadow of the mountain engulfed the tent city.
All in all, a successful day completed by a strong team!
Strong team makes big progress at high altitudes. We love it!
Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/30/2022 at 4:59 am
Way to go guys! Thinking of you all and hoping for fair weather the next few days. Just back from a week of sailing in gale force winds on the west coast of Scotland so am very glad you don’t have that!! Love, Charles and Jennifer.
Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/29/2022 at 12:53 pm
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 28 10:29pm PT
It was a perfect day to rest and regroup from our foray yesterday. The sun was out, temps were warm, and everything was calm. We also got a forecast that looks really promising for the next several days. We took another trip to the edge of the world - last time heat induced clouds were rising up from the glaciers below and it felt like the edge of the world, past which there was nothing, just a white void. Today we could see who down the Kahiltna and get a sense for the sheer scale of it all.
We are headed towards bed pretty hopeful that we are waking to similar weather tomorrow and good conditions to move up.
-640x480.jpg)
Congrats to all !!
Carl, maybe Aconcagua next?
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 6/2/2022 at 3:30 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team!
Posted by: Tucker M on 6/1/2022 at 7:00 am
View All Comments