Entries from Denali
May 29, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 6:42 pm PT
Today didn't work out exactly as planned. When we got up it was calm as promised, but a complete white out in camp. Snow was falling lightly, straight down. We dragged our feet to see how it would evolve. As the sun came up, the clouds did push up a bit, and with some sight it was clear the wind was moving strong up high. Within a few hours, that wind made it to camp as well. So we spent the day in the tents dodging intermittent snow showers and wind gusts.
We are hoping that tomorrow brings us better summit weather and that Mother Denali let's us pass.
May 28, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
May 28, 2023 12:01 PM PT
We hoped for a repeat of yesterday's weather, but instead we got light snow and wind. Definitely not a summit day.
So we're resting inside our tents inside a ping pong ball. Spirits are high despite today's weather wrinkle. Hopefully tomorrow we'll be able to climb.
We stocked our camp with plenty of food and fuel, so we're able to wait it out a few days. Until next time, we'll be counting the ripstop nylon squares in our tents, dreaming of a sunny and calm day for climbing.
Mike
Well done! Very impressive! Safe journey back to Talkeetna- where the beer is cold and the pizza is hot!!! Yeah! You did it!!! Susan
Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2023 at 10:38 pm
Congratulations! What an accomplishment :-) safe travels on the way down. You should be very proud of yourselves.
Elysia hey
Posted by: Elysia Morrison on 5/30/2023 at 9:42 am
May 28, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
May 27, 2023 8:44PM PT
The weather was spectacular today: sunny with very light wind. We took advantage and moved to high camp at 17,200'. Six hours of climbing and another few of building camp and we're all situated. After hydration, lots of calories and some rest, we're hoping to try for the top tomorrow, weather permitting. Fingers crossed!
Mike
Hope that weather window is wide open and today’s the day! Go Team Go! Brett, Enjoy the view and bask in your achievements! Can’t wait for you to share your adventures with us.
PS Game 6 of WCF is Monday VGK leads 3-2.
Posted by: Dianne on 5/28/2023 at 11:30 am
YES!!! Let’s go, no storms and make it to the Summitt!! Great job by everyone.
Posted by: Kim on 5/28/2023 at 8:05 am
May 28, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 27, 2023 10:29PM PT
Today we woke up to brutal cold, and clear skies. We blasted the stoves and rolled into a late morning of granola.
After watching Mike and Pete's teams roll out of camp, we followed suite and began our way up the steep corridor to the base of the fixed lines. We shortened up the rope internals, set up our ascenders, and made our way up the final 700' vertical feet of blue ice to the saddle on the west buttress. Right around 16,100, we crested the buttress and made our way up to our cache site near 16,300'.
After digging a cache hole in the world’s firmest snow, we turned around and made our way back to 14 camp for a late dinner of ramen.
Everyone worked hard and is looking forward to a well-deserved rest day tomorrow.
Nikki, Leif, Lauren and Team
Onward and upward! You’ve got this Kevin!
Posted by: Karie Seubert on 5/29/2023 at 5:37 am
WOW!!! Way to go Kevin and Team! The fixed lines that I have heard so much about and you got to experience it. I know it is tough work but it has to be an incredible reward and experience!!! Climb Strong!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/29/2023 at 3:18 am
May 28, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
May 27, 2023 9:00PM PT
Hello all,
Not a whole lot to report today since today was a whole lot of chilling. We took today to rest up and review skills for tomorrow’s carry. It will be our first time on the fixed lines and doing running belays. The team looks ready, along with a bit nervous and excited to go a bit higher. Once again, fingers crossed for good weather especially as the clouds begin to roll in from both above and below.
Talk tomorrow,
Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
Anna - great to see you’re on the climb and that team is making good progress. I know Hannah has it under control!
Posted by: Alex Grumman on 5/28/2023 at 8:53 am
Great to hear all the plans for the next few days, Anna. Our heartfelt thanks to Hannah for planning carefully and taking weather conditions into such consideration. Also nice to hear that we aren’t the only parents sprouting more gray hairs and adding worry lines! Continuing to pray for a safe summit and trip home for all. Love, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Kathy Hern on 5/28/2023 at 8:19 am
May 28, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
May 27, 2023 7:28PM PT
Things were exactly as we hoped this morning, calm, and blue above.
We woke earlier than most, and had our chores taken care of quickly to get out of camp.
We were roughly the second team out, which turned out to be the right move as it seemed like nearly everyone at 14 headed to the fixed lines today. From the top, we could see a near to continuous line that stretched back to 14.
We made good time and rolled into camp at 17 around 4pm. Then started the laborious work of building camp. It's hard to do anything up here quickly - walk, shovel, stand up too fast, so it took some time, but we are now settled in - working on melting snow for water and hoping that tomorrow gives us our summit shot.
Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team
Go Bailey! Hope the weather window is good and that you get an amazing summit push! Stay safe!
Posted by: Cecilie on 5/28/2023 at 9:29 am
May 27, 2023
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
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It's us again,
Today we slept in and had a casual breakfast before gearing up to retrieve our cache of gear at 13,500'. It was a quick walk downhill. Clouds came and went, and the sun poked out to warm us as we repacked our packs to head back to camp. By the time we were close to camp, the temperatures dropped, and snow began to fall. The afternoon got away from us and before we knew it was dinner time. Ramen filled our bodies, along with hot drinks, and the clouds cleared off for a view of both Hunter and Foraker. The winds are calm compared to last night.
Tomorrow we shall be lazy and enjoy a rest day hopefully with some more good views. Teams are gearing up for moves to high camp. Soon enough it will be our time. For now, we will be patient and enjoy 14,000’ Camp.
Goodnight, all,
RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
We’re tracking and rooting for you, Corey Nolan!! Love, Liz & Matt ❤️
Posted by: Liz Werenczak on 5/27/2023 at 3:23 pm
May 27, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
It was another relatively slow day at 14,000’ Camp. As promised, there were some strong gusts that shook the tents last night into this morning, but the wind settled, and it continued to snow through most of the day. We did laps of camp, socialized, laughed about the army barracks of RMI tents that are now up here as we have four RMI Expedition Teams at 14,000’ camp. One climber asked for street signs, since he got confused, took a wrong turn, and tried to enter the wrong tent.
The team got a solid Start on an igloo, and a couple of folks in camp got rad new haircuts designed for speed. The forecast is giving us some hope that this weekend will give us a chance. We will be up early tomorrow to look uphill and see if things look good enough to launch. If so, our summit push will start.
RMI Guides Pete VanDeventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford and Team
Watching the weather and crossing fingers and everything else for good news! Can’t wait to hear about the whole grand adventure!
Posted by: Chris's Mom on 5/27/2023 at 4:07 pm
Be safe we love you Brian Goltry
Posted by: Lettie Kirk Goltry on 5/27/2023 at 11:58 am
May 26, 2023
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday 5/26/2023 3:15 PM PT
Clouds and light snow are making a perfect atmosphere for a lazy rest day here at 14k.
Strong winds high on the mountain are occasionally visible through breaks in the clouds. The warmth of our tents is conducive to lazing, reading, listening to music, and occasionally drifting off into a dreamy state of consciousness.
Meanwhile, we're hoping that favorable weather allows us an opportunity to climb higher and push for the summit soon.
Until then, we're embracing the tranquility of the mountains.
Mike
Go Team! Make it happen! It’s going to be epic!!! You got this!!!! Perseverance and Patience….goal in sight! Hoping for some solid blue sky and perfect climate!!! Cheers from Talkeetna!!! Susan
Posted by: Susan on 5/27/2023 at 9:39 am
May 26, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thrusday 5/25/2023 10:57pm PDT
What a beautiful day for a rest day. We had a leisurely brunch of breakfast burritos before spending the afternoon building our kitchen for the next few days and learning all the skills necessary for the fixed lines. The weather looks a bit gross tomorrow, so we prepped camp by battening down the hatches and building snow block walls. We are hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines as soon as weather allows. We will wake up tomorrow and see if that is the day.
RMI Guides Nikki, Leif, Lauren & Team
Hey Kevin! I hope you and the team got some great rest to prepare and refuel to go high! I am sending thoughts of strength and stamina your way!!! All the best weather wishes too!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/28/2023 at 3:07 am
Positive vibes for amazing weather.
Posted by: Tiffany on 5/27/2023 at 5:39 pm
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Good luck to you and the team!
Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/29/2023 at 3:53 pm
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