Entries By taylor bickford

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Full Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

May 31, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT After yesterday's big effort, it took some snow and evidence of wind at Windy Corner to decide to take a full chill day at our 11,000' Camp today. Food, movies, books, and naps filled the time, and left little room for anything else. We are feeling good about a move to 14,000 ft Camp tomorrow, and after today, everyone is excited for a change in scenery. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Rich aka dad,

You’re almost there! Keep it up. Been enjoying watching the blog and your climb. Love you and can’t wait to hear all about it!!

Posted by: Eleni Lewis on 6/5/2018 at 6:13 am

Way to go Rich and team-have a good rest and safe ascent!

Posted by: Keith Salzman on 6/1/2018 at 4:53 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 14,000’ Camp

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:38 PM PT It was another pretty perfect morning on Denali, so we made hay. We started off a bit earlier with a smoked salmon and bagel breakfast, then loaded up most of our food and fuel, strapped on crampons for the first time, and started up Motorcycle Hill. The was a slight breeze to keep things cool, and a few moments of windy corner were cold enough to elicit brain freeze, but everything went incredibly smoothly. So smoothly that we decided to keep going all the way to Mike Walter and team's Camp at 14. They were nice enough to let us stash our load in their camp and keep an eye on it. We spent an hour visiting with friends and enjoying the new scene before we had back for our own Camp at 11. With our stuff up high, we're ready to move up at the next opportunity! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Hey Rich

Wow! Amazing photos! Wishing you all great weather and good times! Kids send their love!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:18 pm

The pictures look amazing, thanks for posting them! Congrats on your successes so far and best of luck to the top!! #teamdietz

Posted by: Susan Dietz on 5/31/2018 at 12:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, May 28th - 10:47 pm PST We had a busy day of nothing. After three big days of moving a lot of gear, it was a perfect day to rest, nap, and take care of sore feet. We had a pleasant pancake brunch, then retired to the tents for naps, movies, and reading. We got out to move a bit this afternoon and refresh our climbing skills, then took that into dinner, and off to bed. Rest days are exhausting after all. Tomorrow we'll get back to work and carry a load of food and gear to 13,500' or so. All for now, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer , Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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HI Rich

Cannot get enough of the beautiful shots…hope your cold has left you by now and you are feeling healthy and ready to get this done!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:21 pm

Ah yes, “rest” days!! I hope the sore feet (Caleb??) are healing, and that the good weather continues. Happy Birthday to Henry June 2nd - you must be “The Old Man of the Mountain” these days?! Love, Mom xxxx

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2018 at 10:30 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Find New Home at 11,000’

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST It was a perfect day to cruise up to 11K Camp and find a new home. Where most of yesterday was dead calm and pretty warm with strong sun, we had a light but really cold breeze running through camp in the morning. It died right before we started walking and suddenly we were cooking in the solar oven. Just as we were about to explode into flames, the breeze came back, from straight ahead, and we went the direction of ice cubes. We dug quickly into our mountains of clothing and were back in comfort land. Having previewed the terrain yesterday, today was a breeze, and we cruised into camp like a hot egg salad. Now we are nicely installed in our new home for the next few days. It's snowing lightly, and beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Everyone is healthy and psyched. Tomorrow, we chill, then we will keep looking upward. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Seriously took me a minute to find the right blog!

You guys are all smiling and climbing - I know you must be excited for the climb ahead.
Have fun and enjoy every minute!

Love you Rich

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:25 pm

Checking in again. So happy to see the progress. It’s time for Steve to come home… the bachelorette season has started and I know how much he loves the show !! ;)
I’m loving all of the pictures.
Sending my love and best wishes to everyone.
Stay safe,
Misty

Posted by: Misty on 5/28/2018 at 11:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 11K Camp

May 27, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali

Elevation: 11,000'

We had another great day on the lower Kahiltna. Our goal was to carry a load of food and fuel to around 10,200', just shy of 11K Camp. We had a sneaking hope that we might move well enough and everyone would feel good enough to carry the load all the way to 11,000', eliminating the need for a back carry. After 3 good stretches of walking, we were just below the usual cache site with plenty of time to spare and everyone in good spirits, so we decided to push on. It was a great effort by the whole group, and now most of our food is waiting for us at our next camp. Tomorrow we'll pack up camp at the bottom of Ski Hill and make the move to 11, where the cycle will continue. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Way to push through! Sounds like a strong team!
Love you and stay safe Rich

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:27 pm

Go Magnus! Awesome to read that you are on your way. Thinking of you every day. Can´t even imagine what you are doing.

Don´t forget…Safety first!

Sending you lots of strength, some Swedish “pannben” and hope you and the team will take you all the way up to the top.

Anna-Carin

Posted by: Anna-Carin on 5/30/2018 at 8:04 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Settle in to Mountain Routine

May 26, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,800'

We finally made some big moves! Weather was perfect this morning, so we ate our first mountain breakfast and worked on getting our ropes, sleds, and packs rigged for travel. The first morning always takes a bit, between organizing things for the first time, breaking down camp, and all of the other chores like digging cache that have to get done. By noon we were walking, and from there, things couldn't have gone more smoothly. We made excellent time, rolling in to camp with tons of daylight left. We move into a nice camp that had been left, retrofitted it a bit, and then settled in to the mountain routine: making water, dinner, and then more water. Our goal is to cache a load of food and fuel higher up tomorrow, probably just below 11,000', putting us in place to move camp up there the next day. We'll let you know how it goes! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team

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Go John Go! Go Raj Go! Hope you can feel the Pom Poms

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 5/27/2018 at 4:34 pm

Magnus! Awesome to read that you are on your way and that the weather is on your side!
Sending you lots of strength and hope you and the team will take you all the way up to the top.
Be safe and know we are following your progress! Björn reminds you! In Sweden blue skies and +25C every day :)

The plant team in Billes!

Posted by: Anne on 5/27/2018 at 5:09 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Arrive Kahiltna Base Camp on Second Attempt

May 25, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 7,300'

It took us an extra try, but ultimately our patience prevailed and the very talented pilots of K2 Aviation were able to thread us through some funky clouds and get us in to Kahiltna Base Camp. We made our first run at 12:30 PM and made it almost all the way before a bank of fog turned us back. We landed back in Talkeetna to heavy rain, took off our boots, and settled back in to our waiting game. Then at 5 PM there seemed to be a break and we got the green light. The flight in was spectacular as always, flying right through the rugged peaks and walls of the Alaska Range. Since we weren't in until evening, we decided to put up camp, make dinner, and spend the night here. Tomorrow we will hopefully have the conditions to move our camp and all of our gear to our Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill. We are happily tucked into sleeping bags for our first night on the mountain, glad to finally be here! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Weather Window to Fly On

May 24, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories:

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, May 23, 2018 Well, we have checked all of our boxes to take off, but we weren't able to track down flyable weather to get us in to Base Camp on Denali. Fog rolled in first thing this morning on the glacier landing strip, and we spent the day on standby, waiting for it to clear. Instead, moisture continued to stream into the Alaska range, and rain came off and on to Talkeetna. With a lot of daylight up here this time of year, our flying window is long, and we stuck it out until 8pm, when we finally accepted another night in town and checked into the hotel again. What do you do on a standby day in Talkeetna? Nap in the hanger, download more movies, chat, and explore the curio shops on Main Street, ready to drop everything and run back to the hanger at a moment's notice should things clear. All of that is punctuated by frequent trips to the coffee shop. We'll enjoy another night in a bed and wake up tomorrow to see what the weather gives us. This is the game that we are playing in Alaska! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Looking at my Brad Washburn photo of Denali, and thinking of you all up on the Kahiltna Glacier - good luck to everyone - and special love to Henry and Caleb!

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/26/2018 at 11:51 am

Thinking of you Danny…. everyday. Praying for all of you! I m sure this will be one amazing experience!

Posted by: Ken and Beckie Ruggles on 5/25/2018 at 9:54 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep in Talkeenta

May 22, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali

Elevation: 348'

Our day in Talkeenta progressed at a pretty leisurely pace. We started off with our orientation at the National Park Service after a visit to the coffee shop, and followed that with brunch at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, lest old traditions fail. Then it was into gear: double checking everything we brought, sorting, and packing for the plane flight to Kahiltna Base Camp. With our bags weighed and stacked, ready to be loaded into the Otters, we have done all we can do. It's in the hands of the pilots and weather now. We will head out to town for dinner, and hope to wake up to clear skies and flying weather! We'll keep you posted, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Enjoy your adventure Danny! Can’t wait for you to return home so we can hear all about it. Stay safe!

Posted by: Sheryl & Kevin Burford on 5/29/2018 at 7:41 pm

Be safe, no heroics, know your limits always in control and be wirin yourself.

Tdp

Posted by: Tim pettit on 5/25/2018 at 8:25 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Team On Summit!

August 4, 2017

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Sean Collon, Chris Ebeling, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Walter Hailes and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 30 - 4 August, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. After several days of training in Ashford and on the mountain the team left their High Camp this morning en route to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team arrived at Columbia Crest around 5 am and enjoyed the views from the summit before starting their descent. Today is the last day of their program and they will return to the trail head and back to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to the Kautz Seminar team!

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Entries By taylor bickford

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take Full Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Find New Home at 11,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 11K Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Settle in to Mountain Routine

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Arrive Kahiltna Base Camp on Second Attempt

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Weather Window to Fly On

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep in Talkeenta

Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Team On Summit!

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